Lexus GS 2006-11 :: 2008 GS460 - Acceleration Power Loss / RPM Meter Jerks A Little
Nov 24, 2014
2008 GS460. 100K miles
I have noticed when I accelerate on a entrance ramp to the highway I notice the RPM meter jerks a little like it's trying to suck for gas or something else. I can feel it in the car too. This is the only time I have noticed this. I have replaced the spark plugs about 5K miles ago.
I did bring it into the dealership a few months ago to get the fuel pump replaced as I noticed a hissing noise under the drivers side read door. They said fuel pumps rarely go bad on the Lexus. The mechanic did some fuel pressure tests and said everything looks good. He also said noise is the return line back to the pump.
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Like the title says my 08 gs460 is pulling to the left, the steering wheel has to be slightly to the left for me to go straight, if I straighten the wheel out it goes off to the right, it has only been doing this the past two weeks or so. I went to Lexus and they agreed it was pulling and so they did an alignment, drove home, no change whatsoever, so I'm wondering what else it could be.
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just checked my front fender liner(driver and passenger side) and noticed it was cut on the outside between the fender and liner from front of fender to back making a 2" gap above the tire. i bought the car used 2 years ago and never noticed it. i have 20k miles on it. is this a needed part to change? will water damage any items located under this fender lining? i figured they cut it out for an aggressive tire set up and drop???
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Dropped my car off at the shop due to the transmission lag from stop to slow speeds. Sometimes it feels like I was dragging sandbags. Then all of a sudden the car wakes up and goes.
The shop said the fluid "looks" fine but seems to think there might be too much fluid in it. So here we go with a transmission service. I hope this fixes it.
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So I have had the car for about 6 months and on occasion I have noticed faint black smoke at start up. It usually goes away after the initial start up.
The car did get the recall or TSB on the engine valve ring issue? Not sure if that's related or not.
Also it has an aftermarket cat back Tanabe exhaust if that's relevant.
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2008 GS460 ... When accelerating from a stop sign/stop light it get's stuck in 1st gear for about 10 - 15 seconds before it shift to second gear. I notice this as the engine rev's high and is not shifting. Shifter is in Automatic and not manual mode. Happened at least 4 times in the past 2 weeks. Dealership is unable to replicate the issue and transmission checks out fine. Guess I have to wait until transmission get's stuck in gear before I can bring it back in.
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A major throttle hesitation has developed in this car, that is so bad, sometimes when you put the pedal to the floor it doesn't want to accelerate at all. Feels like the car has a bout 25% power ,it seems to shift very weird also, its like the car is trying to keep the rpms very low. I am not positive but it seems to occur mostly when the car is first started and still cold or on very wet or humid days? It feels like the car is activating the traction control and the throttle plate is not opening all the way at wot?
I am using 5-20 oil. Maybe should go back to 0-20 oil. Cant imagine the sensors are picking up on extra drag from colder thicker oil at that close of a weight? No codes are showing when the car is checked out.
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I was cruising on the highway and tried to accelerate and no more power. Could feel engine losing power. After I shutdown the car and start again, car was fine.
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Anyways, I've put MAYBE 250 miles on my '08 GS460, and Ive noticed what appear to be wear marks from my jeans (just regular Diesel jeans). I didn't have this issue in my SC400, my girlfriend's Cayenne, or any of the other cars I drive on a regular basis. Is this common for these cars? Could the leather just be low quality? Here's a pic .....
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A major throttle hesitation has developed in this car,that is so bad, sometimes when you put the pedal to the floor it doesnt want to accelerate at all. Feels like the car has a bout 25% power, it seems to shift very weird also, its like the car is trying to keep the rpms very low. I am not positive but it seems to occur mostly when the car is first started and still cold,or on very wet or humid days?it feels like the car is activating the traction control and the throttle plate is not opening all the way at wot?
Notice: already change spark plugs + A/T oil + filter
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Faulty combination meters on the Toyota Prius. Loss of braking and power steering on the vehicle? This has happened to me 4 of the 100+ times my dash lights were not working. On those 4 occasions I was driving without the dash lights and all of the warning lights came on and the car lost power steering and the ABS braking and I had to use the emergency brake to stop. Fortunately when this has happened I have not been on the highway and there was no snow or it could have been very dangerous.
This issue has only happened when there is a malfunction with the combination meter. I understand this can create many issues within the vehicle including braking difficulties. The response of the Manager at my local Toyota shop said "well, at least you have brakes, you just won't have them in an emergency stop." Wow! I've read accounts of people going 65 mph and losing brakes when this has happened which could be very deadly.
I'm surprised at Toyota's response with this possibly deadly issue. I'm also surprised that the Combination Meter Failure has not be recalled because based off what I have read about 3% of Prius owners have experienced issues with this and the braking system. At what point does a "warranty" become a "recall"? Please note that this issue is separate from the "accelerator recall".
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Noticed the lights jittery or bouncy when you go over bumps or imperfections on the roads. This cannot be right?
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2009 LS460 I have had my car at the dealer a few times for loss of power on acceleration. The last visit which lasted three weeks finally gave a diagnoses. The problem was confirmed by the dealer and the factory reps, a knock sensor picks up a signal that retards the timing resulting in no power, I was nearly run over by a semi the last time it happened. They tried to give me my car back on 7/24/14 with the knowledge that the problem is not fixable at this time but I should drive the car and they will tell me when there is a fix. I left the car at the dealer. I was also told that they had a few others with the same problem that could not be fixed.
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Yesterday I was stuck in traffic an smelled a burning oil smell. I thought I was the car in front of me so thought nothing of it. Later in the day as i was sitting and idling i smelled it again so knew it was my car. I came home took of the plastic covers and checked under the engine and oil filter everything was dry and clean. I checked topside could not find anything there either, very clean and no signs of oil or fluid. I can only smell it when parked or stuck in traffic while driving I don't smell anything. Usually happens when I have driven several miles.
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I have a 2006 town and country with a 3.3 and 220,000 miles.
Last week I was having some hard starts and loss of power on acceleration. My check engine light flashed during one episode so I had autozone check the code and it showed a misfire. I changed out my plugs and wires and that solved my issue. It started and ran like new.
Yesterday, I was running errands and my charging light came on. I was about ten miles from home and I decided to go for it. It was night so the headlights were on. Along the way, everything started to dim. Headlights, dash lights, airbag indicator came on and then the van just died. I walked the final mile and we towed it home.
The alternator and battery were both replaced last year in November making them both one year old. AC Delco battery 660 cca and I had a very reputable alternator shop rebuild the alternator.
So before I towed the van home, I hooked up some heavy duty jumper cables from a running chevy venture and let it charge 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes it was just clicks in rapid succession.
I hooked it up to a trickle charger overnight, 12v 2 amp setting. This morning, the van started, idled fine for about five seconds and then started trying to cut out. I kept it running by giving it gas but after about twenty seconds it stalled. I tried to restart and nothing but the rapid clicks. Three more hours on the trickle charger and the same exact thing happened. It started, began to stall, quit and then wouldn't restart.
I noticed today that the power steering reservoir was leaking a decent amount of fluid down onto everything around it including the coil pack. I replaced this today and used brake cleaner to clean all the surrounding components.
After doing some internet sleuthing, I found a thread with the same problem. For this guy, he had a disconnected ground from the negative battery terminal. I chased mine down (G101) disconnected and wire brushed it all clean. Put it all back together and still the same problem.
Here is what I have discovered:
Trying to jump it from another vehicle only results in the clicks. This is true whether the jumper cables on the dead battery are on both terminals or the negative is grounded on the motor. If the battery were the problem, I should be able to jump through it. If the alternator were the problem, I should be able to start with a jump.
After charging the battery, it will start once but then die soon after. Battery with the key off will read just under 12 volts (11.9, 11.6). With the key on, it will drop to the 8's (8.6, etc.) I have not yet had the battery or alternator bench tested. I plan to start with the battery in the morning.
It seems to me that the alternator wasn't charging the battery or it wouldn't have just killed the battery as those accessories should be powered by the alternator. It shouldn't be a starter issue since it will start after being on the trickle charger.
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It just started doing it the only way I can seem to figure out how to explain it is at about 50 to 60 under slight acceleration or uphill it bucks or jerks like you have a trailer jerking. No check engine light this thing is driving me nuts... 2004 f150 5.4 ...
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I recently purchased a used GS350 AWD.After purchasing it, I replaced all of the wheel bearing hub assemblies. The rear ones were grinding, and I decided to just do all 4 at the same time.
After swapping the hub assemblies, the slip indicator light comes on when I go 55+ mph. It's usually when I push on the accelerator. It's not always on. It goes on, then turns off for a while. Sometimes when accelerating it doesn't come on at all. When the light turns on, I loose power for a few seconds but I don't hear or feel any braking.
I have tried an alignment, reset the YAW sensor, etc. The mechanic had a very expensive snap on diagnostic computer and he said everything seems to check out. The steering angle is good, acceleration looks good.
I'm thinking that either one of the hub assemblies has a slight defect that affects the ABS sensors, my VSC computer needs replacing, or YAW sensor starting to go bad.
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About 6 months ago I bought a '08 GS 350 CPO. Love the car but after a month or two of ownership, on light acceleration 3rd and 4th gears will shudder. The whole car will buck and shake, but if I give it more gas it will smooth out. Doesn't seem to be the engine, I suspect more the transmission. Of course I took it in and they "could not reproduce the problem"... Is this just a normal characteristic of the car?
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When I slow down to stop my 2008 Sonata it jerks. It is an intermittent issue. The car has 95,000 miles and when I called the dealer I was told they would start with changing the transmission fluid and go from there. I read on some other posts of this same type of issue being fixed by installing the latest software for the transmission, but this was related to 2009 & 2010 Sonatas. Is it possible that installing some new software would work on my 2008?
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I have a 2006 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 that when speed up around high 4 gear entering 5 from what I can hear (it is an automatic) it sputters slightly and you can feel the acceleration kinda die or cut out for a millisecond. I connected the OBD reader and no codes. I noticed the check engine light came on and then off so I replaced the spark plugs replaced and transmission fluids, checked all fluids and leveled them then replaced the fuel filter while I was at it. Drove around for a day like normal did about 50 miles no lights came on but then today while driving in the morning when I accelerated to around 55-60 entering 5 gear the car did the sputtering and loss of acceleration again and no lights or codes.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4. When the engine an transmission is cold it jerks/ Bogs when it shifts. After it warms up it doesn't jerk to bad sometimes but you can still notice it. Also when it shifts the RPM's drop low causing it to bog and jerk. RPM's will go from 1600 to about 800 when it shifts. It is and auto transmission. Today I wanted to try something so I pressed the button to turn the over drive off. Well it shift real good with the OD Off. Seem like with the OD Off it keeps the RPM's up a little higher so it doesn't bog and jerk. I put an Edge Programmer on it, but that didn't work. Still does the same thing with or without the programmer. I changed all my spark plug and coil packs. Truck goes great until it shifts.
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