Lexus GS 2006-11 :: 2007 - Getting Errors / P0031 / P2195 / P2238 / P0137?
Jul 1, 2015
2007 GS450h Lexus owner, and have got a few error codes appearing on her They are as follows:
Quote:
P0031 - Powertrain
HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2195 - Powertrain
O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank1 Sensor1
P2238 - Powertrain
2) O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit
Low bank1 Sensor1
P0138 - Powertrain
O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Am I right in saying, these are all just a dodgy bank 1 sensor 1 (engine bay) and possible sensor 2? Is replacing them myself feasible?
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Both the P2195 (Oxygen sensor or A/F sensor stuck lean - bank 1 sensor 1) and P0031 (Oxygen sensor heater control circuit low - bank 1 sensor 1) were pulled on my 2009 LE (77K miles). Is it safe to assume that the upstream b1s1 sensor is the culprit?
I believe I've found the OE Denso part 234-9056 - is this the right one?
General question about O2 sensors - is it recommended to replace both the upstream and downstream at the same time, or is it not necessary to do that?
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VSC, Check engine light just came on my 2006 GS300. I only have 50k miles on it. I had this happen a few years back and it was the Gas cap o-ring. This time I changed the gas cap and reset the codes but no luck. After starting the car, with a minute the lights come back on. So checked the code and here is what I'm getting:
P0031
Heated Oxygen
Sensor Heater
Control Circuit Low
Bank 1 Sensor 1
Doing a search for the code yields this: [URL] .....
Changing the sensor vs. checking something else that might be the issue?
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Alright, so I've been battling this for a few hours. I know I need to replace a sensor, and that's about it. The issue, is I don't know if I need to replace an oxygen sensor or an air fuel ratio sensor. I have searched, but I keep finding conflicting information. So which do I need?
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2007 camry xle 4 cylinder engine, 2.4 liter I'm getting a P2195 code, which is the A/F sensor B1 S1. I have a few questions:
1. Any diagram of the location?
2. I've been trying to figure out the correct part number, so I can search for a replacement. I've found 4 or 5 different numbers already. What is the correct part number?
3. Should I only by the OEM part? Or do the aftermarket brands like Denso work?
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My 2006 2.0T Passat is starting to give me the steering column errors. I've seen a couple people saying that the problem was rectified by a new battery. Seeing the car is out of warranty and this would be the 6th winter for the battery, I think it's probably good idea to try a new battery to see if it does the trick before going to the dealer. I've never changed a battery before, so what does it all involve? I have a 12V battery from my back up sump pump that I can use to keep the power up when I change the battery. I imagine that I'll just connect the back up battery to the leads, then disconnect the old battery, pull it out, put in the new battery, connect the leads to the new battery, and disconnect the back up battery. Does this sound reasonable? Is there a bolt(s) securing the battery in place that needs to be loosened before I can pull the old battery out of the bay?
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I have a p2195 trouble code with my 2007 Toyota Sienna CE. This is O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1. I am assuming I'll need to replace this sensor. It's a little confusing but if I am reading my Haynes manual correctly, the repair goes as follows:
The sensor for 2007 and later models will be in the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter. To remove it, it's necessary to remove the passenger seat, disconnect and snake the pigtail through the grommet in the car floor. Then, disconnect the O2 sensor from underneath the van and replace.
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I received error code P0031 on my 06 Avalon the other day. It states that the HO2S (Heated Oxygen Sensor) is bad. Bank 1 Sensor 1. I located the sensor but have a few questions...
Just to give an over view for those that don't know where these are, there are 4 sensors the one in the front on the manifold (upper - B2, S1), (lower - B2, S2) and the rear manifold (upper - B1, S1), (lower - B1, S2).
All of the sensors look the same with 4 wires. what the part number is for the sensor? Also since this is the hardest one to get to, I would like to know where the wire routes to. I found the wire up to the connector on every other sensor except the one I need (B1S1). It looks like it runs towards the top of the engine but from the top I don't see it.
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I have a 2006 Ranger 2.3l 4 cylinder that is have emissions problems the code the tech gave me was P2195 an I bought the o2 sensor just where it is, and the auto stores didn't have a manual for the year of my truck.
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Last week I was on a dive trip and my RX remained parked outside for a week. As I was returning home and I was merging on the highway my CEL appeared; I used my scanner and the code was p2195, which I cleared. My RX was driven for about 5 minutes before merging onto the highway.
On my way home I needed to stop for gas, I filled up and them merged onto the highway and the CEL came on again. I used the scanner and the same code p2195- which I cleared.
I completed my drive home, and have only been doing short city driving since then an no CEL's.
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Had my Check Engine light come on so I went by a local AutoZone to see if they could read the code. He said it was P0137, but what his reader can't tell is which one it is.
A co-worker pointed out where it was on my 2006 2.4, but I'm not sure if it's the sensor in the engine bay or the one closest to the catalytic converter. The engine bay looks easy to change out but I'm in no condition to be crawling around underneath.
Which sensor the P0137 is referring to?
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So I bought LOLM3's old Borla a while back & everything's been great except CEL P0137 & the VSC light keeps popping up on me every 30-40 miles. I have a 12' with 20k miles on the odo.
P0137: O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE (BANK 1 SENSOR 2)
It has secondary cats welded on along with these type of O2 defoulers so the O2 sensors can reach the re-located bungs (except they're welded, not screwed on):
I've swapped sensor 1's with bank 2's sensor & even went ahead & replaced it with a brand new one, same code keeps popping up . Resetting the light is getting old & inspection time is coming up!
There are no audible exhaust leaks as far as I can tell, would a minor leak throw the CEL?Should I cut out the secondary cats & replace with straight piping like how the exhaust was originally made?
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I need to know the Fire order for the 2011 toyota camry se 2.5 L engine. so I can find which oxygen sensor I need to change. I m getting a P0137 code and it said is the bank 1 sensor 2. I think that is the one after the catalytic converter but need to find out for sure.
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Check engine like on my 03 Camry with 2.4L is own & got an OBD code of P0031. Just bought the car with 38k miles one owner & can't pass local emissions.
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About 2 months ago, the check engine light came on and I had the code read, it came out as P0031, which is the 02 Sensor. Today, I had this 02 Sensor replaced and had the code reset, but later on today the check engine light came on again. The mechanic said I needed to drive it for about 100+ miles before the car resets itself. I drove it for about 30 miles before it did come back on.
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It's time to go thru emissions testing, but I'm getting a P0031. New A/F Sensor (Denso 234-9041) did not fix it. California Emissions compliant.
2003 Camry, 2.4 16-valve
Car runs good, MPGs same as always, 26/27 and 30+
Old sensor has no resistance or continuity thru any of the pins.
New sensor has 2.5/2.8 ohms res between blk/blk pins. (? +B and HT ?)
200K miles, has burned oil since I got it w/ 140K. Have had MIL light on for two years, but did not care until now. Previously had diff DTC's, not P0031.
Swapped EFI relay with Headlight relay, no change.
Checked all fuses, all OK.
Cleaned ground on engine block and fender, no change.
Checking voltage at engine connector, sensor disconnected, car running, I'm seeing
Orange 3.31 = Blue Sensor wire (AF+ ?)
White 3.017 = White Sensor wire (AF- ?)
Blk/Red 3.827 = Blk Sensor wire (HT ?)
Blk/Wht 13/14 = Blk Sensor wire (+B ?)
I cannot find FREE online wiring diagrams anywhere. I have searched TN exhaustively, have not found anyone who actually fixed this problem, or provided a link to a wiring diagram.
So, which wire is the ground ? Should it show 0 voltage ? Is it controlled by ECM ? How do I test the ground continuity ?
Where is ECM located ? I want to unplug and re-plug.
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What to do to get rid of P0031 check engine code on my 4 cyl. Camry LE. He replaced O2 and A/F sensor (Denso with CA emission), computer module (got dealer calibrated it), verified wiring/voltages, inspected the catalytic converter. When the code is cleared it will not come up for some time, but when the car is started cold it comes right back again.
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Mine Door controller started out minor - randomly it would try to roll up the window multiple times when it was already closed, and I'd get "intermittent signal" errors from vagcom. I told the dealer about this, and they didn't want to fix it, and they tried to blame my C2 ECU flash for the door controller problem, possibly because there wasn't anything obvious wrong with it other than the VCDS errors.
Now it has decided to wig out totally - when I open the driver's door, a good 50-70% of the time the car thinks the door isn't open. The MFD doesn't light up, dome light stays off, fuel pump doesn't prime. Open the passenger door and the MFD does display and dome light turns on, but the driver's door will still show "closed" even though it is standing wide open.
If I don't start the car quick enough and I have no passenger, it will re-lock (since it thinks nobody ever opened the door). Weirder still, if I pull the interior handle with the door open, it will usually light up the MFD and show the door open, but only briefly - when I let go of it the door shows closed again. However, sometimes after pulling it a few times it "fixes" and the MFD will show open correctly and the door is fine, for a while...
It has not yet gotten stuck in an "open" position, as that would mean I couldn't lock the car.
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I've been using my HEX+CAN and VCDS a lot lately, and find that a lot of the time I get many communication errors. This makes some things, like looking into the measured blocks on the engine controller nearly impossible. Very close to impossible. Could barely find out that my second MAF sensor was bad (replaced, now.) Is this standard for Phaetons, or is this just me?
I am using Mac OS X 10.8.4, with Parallels Desktop 7 running Windows XP SP3 x86. It occurs with both the latest stable and beta versions of VCDS.
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2015 Golf TDI s model. When I try to use a SD card absolutely nothing happens. No errors, no reading, like I have put nothing in the SD card spot directly below the CD player in the glove box. On all the radio menus the SD card is dimmed as if nothing is in there. I have tried 4 different brands and sizes of SD cards, different formatting options, different files, still nothing. The iphone cable works fine, so does bluetooth and the CD player. No error codes either with VCDS. I have tried complete resets of everything but no luck.
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I let my 2007 Lexus GS 350 sit for 3 days. I start the car put it in drive & it rolls back and on the dash it reads BRAKE...but I had already released the brake. I cut the car off to try & reset the car now it doesn't start messages started appearing: Check VSC, P/S, Traction...the push to start goes to green: the radio plays, air blows hot, the brake is HARD. I tried replacing the gas cap, charged the battery, and got a jump. I had my mechanic take a look with the scanner & the car isn't reading any actual message.
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