Lexus GS 2006-11 :: 2007 - Door Hinge Is Not Working Properly
Mar 11, 2014
The thread started from a guy with a 2007 LS where his door hinges were becoming basically awful to the point where it was very difficult to shut the doors. My response follows...
So it's almost been two years since the last post in regards to this but I thought I would share a similar experience I'm going through with my 2007 GS 350. 2 months ago I broke down and bought a set of hinges for the right rear door because it got to the point that you physically had to walk with the door to close it ($400 parts, labor, paint). I am now having a similar experience with the driver door and it's getting worse every month.
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Where is the fog light relay located in the car? I have checked the fuse and the bulb everything is fine but it wont turn on.
1. Fog light fuse still good (even try to switch to new fuse) the fog light wont turn on at all.
2. Check the connection wire everything is in intact.
3. High beam still working fine using the stalk but fog light still not working. Yes, we can only use fog or high beam, but the issue is low beam and fog not even working.
4. Before the Fog light problem, the driver side fog light is blown. So I replace it with the new bulb. Everything is OEM part there are no aftermarket part or HID .
5. This happen about a week after the driver side bulb blown then all sudden the fog just not working at all.
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my nav system in my 06 has started acting all goofy on me. a few weeks ago while heading down to LBI I looked at the screen and it said I was driving in the ocean. I shook my head and went to our house which I've been to hundreds of times so it wasn't like I needed it. the next day it figured out where it was (meaning it actually knew its location and it showed on the screen). I forgot to mention that the nav thought I was somewhere off the coast of Massachusetts around cape cod
fast forward to now.....no hiccups up until today......I went out for a few and everything was fine with the nav but I just went to drop my kids off and it was claiming I was a few miles north-west of my actual location.
is there anyway to reset and recalibrate it? I have seen the recalibrate option but I have messed around with it yet. i personally feel that the nav unit in my ex is useless and rely on my Garmin but still......I'd like it to at least show my actual location. i just used the "search" button but I still haven't really found and answer.
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My 2011 ES350 has 43,000 miles and runs great. I took it to Firestone today for tire rotation, full synthetic oil change and I let the guy talk me into adding fuel injector cleaning.
When I got the car back, I noticed the Auto Climate Control button wasn't working properly. If I press it on, I can't press it off. The green light stays on. If I turn off the fan, the Auto button goes off. I am positive the button worked before the service.
What could have happened that would cause this? I know the service guy had to press some buttons to turn off the "oil change required" message. Could he have messed something up in the process?
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Have had a persistent squeak in my passenger front door since buying it used 9 months sgo. Tried WD40, even have had dealer install 2 new hinges.. but still have the loud squeak (starts about 1/2 way opening the door).
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Last spring i purchased an 08 600hl. This is my first winter with this car and I have come across an issue. when it is extremely cold like it has been for the past few days the heating system for the interior of the car does not seem to be working properly. when i warm up the car and put on the heat it blows cold air. It is only when I am driving that the heat comes on. While i am driving at a moderate speed the heat works fine. However, when i drive slow, such as driving around a parking lot and its only running on hybrid battery power, it starts to blow cold air again. When i put the car in park and its only running off the battery i only blows cold air even on the "HI" temperature. I have the rev the engine to get the heat to kick in and then it will stay on. This is and issue or a normal behavior for this car.
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Our 2010 base model GX 460 was 'born' in November 2009 and purchased new in February 2010, but we never used the 120 VAC power outlet at the back of the cargo compartment by the rear door hinge. I was cleaning and swapping 'summer' floor mats for 'winter' mats and decided to see if the outlet works. The appended pictures prove it does produce 120 VAC .... actually, almost 124 VAC, but I have no way to test if it can supply 100 Watts, much less the waveform shape. Perhaps it could light a 100 Watt incandescent bulb, but nothing sensitive to supply line glitches!
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Any time I open or close the driver side door, hearing some noise from the door hinge.
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Due to the rain this weekend I decided to clean out my interior and do some maintenance. Lately my driver-side door has been making a squeaking sound. As such, I decided to lube up all the doors just in case. Upon inspecting all the doors/hinges I found that both the driver-side rear door and passenger-side rear door hinge bolts are rusted real bad. These are the bolts that connect the hinge to the door rather than the hinge to the door frame.
I inspected the door for any sign of water intrusion, but could not see anything out of ordinary. Also, nothing else was rusted or appeared to be water damaged. I inspected all the other hinge bolts around the car for comparison and they were fine. It is strange that both rear passenger doors have this issue. I bought the vehicle used and the Carfax comes back clean with no accidents or damage reported.
The only other time I have seen this is when the door has been worked on, and a socket was used which stripped the protective paint off the bolt. Even then only the rough edges of the bolt rusted, and not the entire thing. While I could foresee one door being worked on, I do find it strange that both would have needed work. However, this assumption does not rule out the possibility.
My only other issue of concern which may play into this is the surprising amount of sand I find on the exterior. As good as one can clean a car there are always some places that will never get fully clean. With that said, while the exterior is clean I have found sand residue in little crevices (weep holes) and corners throughout. I am sure that sand and moisture would play a part in causing rust to accumulate, except that no other parts show any sign of rust. This is certainly bizarre to me. I plan on replacing the bolts, but would like to remedy the problem before hand if possible.
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Ever since I painted my car my outer door handles have not worked properly. Once you open the door using the inner door handle then the outer one works fine...lock the doors and the outer handle becomes almost useless. I say almost useless because if you kind of pull it just right it seems to catch and work. How to remedy it? Really tired of using this auto window roll down to reach in and open the door.
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I have the car stored but when I went to start it last week it was dead. Trickle charged the battery and noticed on the cluster my car said the door was open (it was not). I firmly closed it and it the indicator went off, check later and the light came back on. It's likely hardware and not something I can clear so any tips?
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I brought a 99 Passat V6 with 46k miles and the car is now having problems with the driverside power door lock. I hit the remote to unlock the car but the door wont open. After several attempt, im able to open the door.
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My 2008 F150 Super Crew Door locks use to work like this, When you pushed the unlock button on the key fob once it unlocked the driver door only then if you pressed it again it unlocked the other 3 doors. A few months ago it started unlocking all 4 doors with one press. The owners manual does not show this as a option and when I had it at the dealer for brakes they tried to get it back the way it was but could not figure it out either.
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I have a 2008 F150 Super Crew 4x4 when you press the unlock button on the remote all the doors unlock, it use to be one push for drivers door and two would unlock all doors. I think the problem started after I had the battery changed out, how to get it back to one push for drivers door only?
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I just purchased this really nice high milage '07 Sonata and am working on some "minor" issues:
The Driver's Door lock actuator is not working (all others are fine using the interior lock/unlock switch and the key when used in the driver's door lock).
I have researched the issue on this site and want to confirm what appears to be a nasty replacement scenario.
1st, can a new actuator be found for less than $70.00+-?
2nd, are the acuators specific for each door, left and right doors, or all interchangeable? I ask because I might go for a used one.
3rd, is the complete dismantleling of the door and window actually necessary? Seems unbelievable especially for such a common problem. But of course the engineers never expected it to be a "common" failure.
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I'm having some problems with the power windows and locks. The passenger side window only works when it wants to. The power lock on the same door will not lock unless I push it down. And the lights that are on the switches don't work.
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just notice my interior door lights of driver rear and passenger front aren't working well . Driver front and passenger rear is working.
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My 2007 ES 350 will chime if the car is on and the door is opened. It will also warn you if the car is on and the electronic key becomes out of range.
One day both of these features stopped working. Everything else seems to be working just fine.
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I have Lexus Ls460 (2008), I have paint the driver door, so they removed the door handled and reinstall it after they finished, the problem now, the keyless access from the driver door not working, I can't enter unless I push the unlock button in the remote, all other doors working fine, and can be open without pressing the unlock button. So is their any way to re-program the driver keyless door? or it could be something wrong with the handle installation?
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Hey for some reason my esc light will pop on saying it's off without Mr pressing the button. What makes it do that?
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I have been having a mildew smell when using AC. I purchased a foaming cleaner that is mean to be sprayed by inserting a small tube in the evaporator pan drain, but the design on my santa fe drain hose prevents the tube from making it to the core. It always gets jammed up at firewall because of a 90 deg bend. Is there a port on the housing that allows access to the core?
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