Lexus ES 2013+ :: Rate Of Braking That Results In Maximum Recovery Of Energy Into Battery - 300h
Mar 8, 2015
I'd like to understand the rate of braking that results in the maximum recovery of energy into the battery. I try to brake so that the needle goes down almost to the bottom of the 'charge' region, but not so strongly that the needle completely bottoms out. I figure that if the needle bottoms out completely, I am using the friction brakes. Is that the correct way to use the brakes? What technique to achieve 40mpg use?
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My ES 300h is not going to be driven for about 2 months. Will it start right up after that time or will the batteries be dead? How long can it sit idle and still start up again?
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Morning are getting colder engine runs at 1100 to warm up OK I understand that. But after running around town and engine is warm, I checked again, still at 1100 RPM. Shouldn't it be lower or is that what the batteries need?
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It's a 2003 Ford F-150. When I'm driving slow I hear what sounds like a tin can clanking up against another piece of metal, coming from the rear end. Right, Left, or center I'm not sure. U-joint maybe?
There is also a bit of wobbling when I'm braking at a high rate of speed.
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As other manufacturers match up with the Prius, it is interesting to see how this affects purchasing decisions.
The 2013 Prius Plug-in Advanced lists for $40,320:
It gets 95 MPGe for its 11 miles of battery power and 50 MPG in hybrid mode. The engine has 138 total horsepower = 98 HP Gas + 78 HP Electric engine 0-60 MPH is 10.6 seconds.
The 2013 Lexus ES 300h Hybrid lists for $39,725:
It gets 40 MPG city, 39 MPG highway, 40 MPG combined. The engine has 200 total horsepower = 150 HP Gas + 141 HP Electric engine. 0-60 MPH is 7.6 seconds. Top speed is 112 MPH.
Lexus dealerships will give you a free loaner Lexus while your car is in for maintenance or repair. Lexus mechanics are also sticklers for perfection. (After tune-ups, the car simply feels brand new - owning 5 Lexus cars myself).
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Is it normal for the Prius energy monitor to be showing that the ICE and motor are driving the wheels without any battery power? How can the motor drive the wheels without any battery being drawn going up a hill?
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My 2002 Prius stopped while driving down the road and will not restart.
The fuel level is flashing and was ~ 1/2 when the car failed. My scanner will not read the OBDC 2 (not connecting). The windows other than the drivers will not go up or down.
The PRNDLB does not show gear.
The 12 volt battery is OK, but the HV battery shown as blank on the energy screen.
I hate to put too much into a 2002 with 190,000 miles, but it does still have value if I can get it running again.
For example if I needed a rebuilt battery for 15-1800 I would probably go for it. So far the car has been 100% reliable.
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I have a 2013 Five and cannot find the capacity for the car. I carried this load for 130 miles without a problem.
There might have been an inch of travel left in the rear suspension. This was approximately 1,300 pounds, including me.
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I was wondering what the maximum size tire with no lifts or leveling I could put on my truck would be. I was looking at a pair of Nitto grapler g2's at 295/70r17 with my stock wheels. Would that fit?
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I just bought a 2010 prius (26k miles..prior collision.. so no warranty) for my wife. The battery drains in just 3 days if left unused. I had Toyota install a new battery. Again 3 days left parked and battery was dead.
I locked myself in and measured the consumption. It drains at the rate of 1.1Amps when parked. That looks very high consumption. I want to measure with SKS turned off, but that's going to be tricky. I believe SKS resets when battery is reconnected.
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I have a 2006 Suzuki Forenza with original battery, so it's been about 9.5 years now. Yesterday, I couldn't start the car, and it made a few rapid clicks on trying to start it. I didn't have time to deal with it so took a spare car to work. Came home to check/try the car and it had so little charge that dashboard lights, automatic door locks, etc. didn't work, the warning indicator lights that light up on turning power on barely lit up. Seems like the battery was nearly discharged. I'm attempting to have it charged with an external charger right now to check on the car later (and try to check for parasitic drain), have the battery tested, and bring the car to mechanic for a more thorough inspection (I'm not a car person).
I was just wondering though in the meantime: did I get lucky to get nearly 10 years of life out of a car's factory installed battery? and that it's likely time for a new battery regardless of whether the battery still holds charge? The car was working fine the previous day, I never had to jump start the car. Although I had trouble starting car once or twice in the past, but that just required waiting a bit and attempting to start car again - may have been warm weather related. It just failed yesterday, and I don't recall leaving headlights on or things like that. I'm just wondering had my car been parasitically draining already and just hit a critical point yesterday (slow drain before but faster drain at some point like yesterday), or can parasitic drain just happen all of a sudden like fine one day, then some drain/short the next that kills the battery.
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I can get the fan to work in lo-med-hi if I set the rear-cool fan selector to those positions, however, selecting auto results in the fan turning off completely. Do I have to have the front in "auto" for the rear "auto" function to work?
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I recently purchased the rims from another member here on Club Lexus.
Ever since installation, I have been experiencing a vibration at highway speeds and while braking. The wheels are correctly balanced.
My technician has told me that I need to buy a hub ring/spacer (not too sure what that is) but nonetheless, a grommet of such that fits between the backside of the rim and the frontside of the hub. I'm not too sure where to begin from there or what to even look for.
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On the drive home today I noticed a new sound on my 14 300h. On quiet subdivision streets, every time I press the brakes I hear a 'click', almost like a relay engaging, before the brakes start slowing down the car. I think it may be a relay but I never noticed this before. The sound is definitely from inside the engine compartment. Noticed this sound on 300h? It is very faint but repeatable with the brakes. I only hear it with the radio off.
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Have noticed a thumping noise when braking at a Low speed on my 2013 RX 350. Brought it to the attention of my Lexus service mgr at the 5000 mile service. He did a test ride and heard the same thumping sound. He then test drove another 2013 RX at the dealership which made the same noise.
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I have a 2015 GS350 F Sport (RWD). A clicking noise occurs during braking and acceleration, but only sporadically. It seems to occur more often during heavy breaking and/or acceleration. The sound seems to be coming from the driver's side A-pillar or the driver's side dash at any rate. Sometimes the sound is a single click and sometimes it clicks up to 3 times.
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We got rid of our run flats and bought new tires recommended here. We have a 2003 SC430 and the tires say max pressure 51lbs... It's been a while for us so we are not sure what level to fill them at. Do we do the recommended max? Or is there a better option? We used to live in New England and we now reside in Atlanta so we didn't know if the climate difference would be a factor.
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'15 GS350 F-Sport. Had it for a month. There's a noticeable clicking noise coming from the front brakes as I apply the brake.
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Am I missing something or why when I press the auto climate it would always bump the fan a/c up to maximum speed and never adjust itself? Defeats the purpose of auto climate control.
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My car (2014 IS250 F-Sport) has been making this weird noise thats hard to put into words every time the steering wheel is being turned to just before its maximum rotation. It sounds kinda like an old car driving over the speed bump. The noise only comes on in the first turn and then its gone. The car has to be moving at a very low speed too, I only hear it turning into my driveway (no bumps what so ever). Has absolutely no effect on the driving characteristic of the vehicle. What or where it might coming from?
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I purchased a new 350ES in October 2013. A few months later when I went to start the car after having it sit in garage a day or two, it would not start. Called Lexis Roadside. They jumped it and all is well. I thought perhaps I had left the trunk or a door ajar. There was no evidence I had done so. The dealer gave a multitude of reasons this could have happened. I considered it a fluke and moved on.
Approximately a yr later, same thing. Dealer replaced battery and indicated they don't know why it failed again. About nine mos. later, August 2015, same thing! They again replaced battery but were admittedly very unsure the problem was solved.
Car performed fine since then but it was driven every day. Last week, it sat in my garage exactly 36 hrs. Would not start. Lexus Roadside guy said it has a bad cell. Keep in mind this battery is now about 10 months old!
It is at the Lexus dealer now. First (believe it or not) the service guy told me this is normal and I should get a trickler (sp?) and plug it in at night. What??? When I argued with him, he back pedaled and agreed to allow it to sit on their lot for a few days and see what happens when they try to start it.
The alarming thing is that they seem stymied as to what is causing this electrical failure or how to fix it.
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