Lexus ES 2013+ :: Key Fob Opens And Locks All Doors Except The Driver Door
Nov 13, 2015
I have a 2013 ES350 with 56k miles. Key fob opens and locks all doors except the driver door. I called the Lexus dealer in town and they said its probably the door lock acuator that needs to be replaced. It's out of warranty since it's over 50k miles. Is it possible to replace this yourself or is there some kind of recall for this. The car is only two years old and it seems ridiculous that something like this would already go out on a Lexus.
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I have a 2002 civic. The key fob only opens or locks the passenger side doors but not the driver side doors. Worse still, the key does not work in the lock so I have to use the fob to open the passenger side and climb in to open my drivers door. Having said that the key won't open the door lock, it will do only occasionally. I might try it 20 times with no luck and on the next attempt it opens it as if there was never a problem in the first place... My priority is to get the fob to operate all of the doors. I have tried the simple things like changing the battery of the fob and resetting the key.
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2013 RH450. I have had several incidents with the electronic key in the car, when I return to get into the vehicle the driver side door is locked. Other doors seem to be open. This concerns me because there is the possibility I could be locked out of the vehicle. Called Lexus and they did not understand how this can happen.
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Driver's door can't be opened. This 2005 Kia Optima EX has power door locks. It does NOT have rods that you can manually pull up to open it or push down to lock it. There are two ways to lock on unlock all the doors....with rocker switch on the driver's armrest or by pushing or pulling a small "button" located under the inside door latch to lock or unlock the door. When the driver's door gets stuck in the locked position I can hear the electric "actuator" inside the door panel as they lock or unlock the doors.
Using the "button" under the inside door handle doesn't work but if I rock the rocker switch from lock to unlock while my wife pulls on the outside door handle the door will eventually come open. The driver's lock/unlock button is operating incorrectly. When the rocker switch is pressed down to open the door, the button moves all the way back but then moves about about an eighth of an inch forward. The right side door buttons don't do this....they move all the way back or to the open door position and stay there. So, is the actuator in the door bad, is the rocker switch bad, or does= some electrical device, (a solenoid?) etc, bad that is not even located in the door?
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I noticed that I need to use more strength go close the driver's door in my 2007 gs350 All the other doors i can close with minimum effort. Is this normal?
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I have a 2004 Prius. Just rolled 120k today, still running like a champ, but I started having this weird issue. Whenever I walk up to the car, it opens by itself.I dont even have to put my hand on the door handle, I just get close to the drivers door and it opens, of course with the smart key in my pocket. Its only the drivers door as well. I find this a little weird plus its hard to lock the door with the black square because if I don't run out of range...it unlocks.
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When I unlock my door by just touching the handle it only opens the driver door and if I am at the passenger door it only opens the passenger door. Is there a way to open all the doors without having to take the keys out of my pocket and hit the unlock button? I want to be able to open all doors by just touching the handle.
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Getting a squeak when they open the trunk of their camry? it is really annoying. I have sprayed on a lot of armor all and the dealer said they could not replicate, which I find difficult to believe. When you release the trunk from the inside, you walk back and you hear the squeaking on the driver side as you walk back.
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I can open all the doors if I press the unlock button on the driver's side. However, suddenly, the remote (both remotes) will unlock only the driver's door & the trunk, but not the passenger & rear doors.
Locking the door manually with the key did nothing. We just replaced the car's battery (it's been 5 years), but that didn't solve the problem with the keyless entry remote. One of the remotes is rarely used (1x/week), so I'd be astonished if both keyless entry remotes needed batteries at the same second.
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I opened the door yesterday, got out of the car, then when I got back in the door wouldn't close. I did end up getting it closed but it took a lot of force and there was major resistance. When I got out, there was no resistance top open about a foot opening, just enough to squeeze out. Any more than that and I would have needed a lot of force to get it open.
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I have had a rattle in my driver's side door since I picked up my car that was driving me crazy so when I took my ES300h into local Lexus dealer (Cool Springs in Franklin, TN) for my 1000 mile checkup, I asked them to fix it. As has happened to numerous others on the forum, they couldn't hear the rattle and did nothing.
When I got the car home, my wife and I went for a ride with her sitting behind me. We figured out it was the window rattling. When we moved the window down just slightly, so it's still sealed, the rattle went away.
When I turned off the car a light came on for open window but it still locked.
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The driver side lock has jammed on my 2008 Mercury Milan Premier. Now I have to open my door by rolling down my window to get to the outside latch!
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I just purchased a 2005 F150 (4.6L / 4 door). The lot I purchased it from had picked it up at auction. Tell-Tell signs indicate it was a repo. (Only one key, no fobs, locking fuel filler door jimmied and spring removed, scratches on upper corner of driver's side door and rubber bent back.
The power locks switch on arm rest works on all doors except driver's. The drivers door does lock and unlock manually. I am wanting a good hypothesis before I begin tearing into the door panel.
If the latching mechanism was damaged, it wouldn't lock manually, right? If the electronics were damaged the other doors wouldn't work right? So, my hypothesis is the actuator on driver's door. Do I start searching for/locating possible replacement parts?
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For over a month I was having a slight rattle coming from the driver's side.
Today I found that my door panel on one end is coming off. I can literally bend it and look inside
Not sure how to take the top half (where the wood trim is) off without breaking any remaining clips.
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After weeks of receiving an alert about my battery being low on my key fob I finally replaced the battery. But the drivers side door won't lock. The car does start, and even after you put it in reverse the doors still won't lock.
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My GS350 came back from the body shop yesterday. Driver side rear door touch lock does not work. I'll take my car to the body shop next week, but I'm wondering what is causing this problem. Basically, I want to know how the door touch lock operates. Does it have any sensors attached to the door handle?
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I am trying to diagnose a buzz/squeak/rattle coming from the driver door. Once I press on the door, the noise goes away, so I would like to take the interior trim and leather off the of the door to do some more troubleshooting. How to remove the interior portion of these doors?
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Strangely today my drivers side rear power door lock stopped working. Very annoying, can't unlock it electronically, and if its unlocked the rest of the car won't lock and the headlights won't go off.
I have to put it in anyways for the airbag seat rail TSB, but I was going to wait until my 40k service was due. This is too annoying to wait on since I put my briefcase and hang up my suit jacket in that seat...
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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Any time I open or close the driver side door, hearing some noise from the door hinge.
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I just got new es300h 2015, first day i already noticed noise from hood when driver side door opened, after door closed then opened, noise is gone.
Noise usually happened when car cooled down. I brought this issue to dealer they response its normal in hybrid car. I really doubt explanation.
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