Lexus ES 2013+ :: Battery Failure If Not Driven A Day Or Two
Jun 18, 2016
I purchased a new 350ES in October 2013. A few months later when I went to start the car after having it sit in garage a day or two, it would not start. Called Lexis Roadside. They jumped it and all is well. I thought perhaps I had left the trunk or a door ajar. There was no evidence I had done so. The dealer gave a multitude of reasons this could have happened. I considered it a fluke and moved on.
Approximately a yr later, same thing. Dealer replaced battery and indicated they don't know why it failed again. About nine mos. later, August 2015, same thing! They again replaced battery but were admittedly very unsure the problem was solved.
Car performed fine since then but it was driven every day. Last week, it sat in my garage exactly 36 hrs. Would not start. Lexus Roadside guy said it has a bad cell. Keep in mind this battery is now about 10 months old!
It is at the Lexus dealer now. First (believe it or not) the service guy told me this is normal and I should get a trickler (sp?) and plug it in at night. What??? When I argued with him, he back pedaled and agreed to allow it to sit on their lot for a few days and see what happens when they try to start it.
The alarming thing is that they seem stymied as to what is causing this electrical failure or how to fix it.
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I got a call from the wife at work telling me the vehicle was making a loud noise when being driven. I told her it was a bit hard for me to diagnose since I was at work and to leave it parked till I got home. She really had to go out so she decided to drive it a short distance and come home.
I got home and discovered the drivers side spring was sitting on top of the inside of the front tire. The spring had done a superb machining job of the tire tread to the point I was amazed that the tire still held air. Anyway long story short the beast is in the shop having both front springs and struts,tires etc. being replaced. The spring actually broke.
I just bring this to the group as I did a search on google and this is not an uncommon, occurrence on these santys. We /she are just lucky this happened at a low rate of speed,as a highway speed incident like this would not have been pretty.
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My 2013 ES300h was diagnosed with a ABS Actuator failure. The car has just over 52,000 miles and was 3 years old in February this year. The dealer told the repair is around $5000 and my car is no longer under warranty. They are approaching Lexus to see if they will do a good will repair.
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I was unable to access the passenger door of my vehicle. View video [URL] .....
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Strangely today my drivers side rear power door lock stopped working. Very annoying, can't unlock it electronically, and if its unlocked the rest of the car won't lock and the headlights won't go off.
I have to put it in anyways for the airbag seat rail TSB, but I was going to wait until my 40k service was due. This is too annoying to wait on since I put my briefcase and hang up my suit jacket in that seat...
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I have been experiencing this problem for sometime now. I notice it especially when the battery shows low and after stopping at a Stop sign. Also when I go uphill.
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Last February I got my car battery replaced. It was less than 2 years old and went dead if I didn't drive my car in at least the past day. I brought it to Sears and they replaced the battery and gave me a discount for the short life of the previous battery.
About 4 months later, it started happening again. Now it's down to only about 6 hours of non-driving. I had the battery tested at Sears, another garage where I was getting other work, and by my father, who has all the meters and is a former machinist.
Everyone says the battery is in good shape, the cables are secure, and the battery is taking a charge. It's a 2002 Toyota Corolla ....
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For the 3rd time this winter I have been unable to start my SUBARU IMPREZA because of Dead battery. Usually it is after I have not driven for 3 - 5 days. Each time it is jump started (AAA) and I have driven it to the local Subaru Service Center. They have tested and analyzed battery and charging system and find nothing wrong!!! (Battery was replaced last March). They say drain measured very low (3mA?).
One ?clue: when jumper cables are hooked and powered up to start car, you can hear the CD changer trying to find a CD or something. But there are no CDs and we never leave it on. I mention this to the Service manager and he says that the measured battery drain is too low for that to be the problem.
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Just bought a 2013 ES300H after ten Acura's. My car is two and a half years old and wondering how long does the original battery last. On Acura's it is about three years. There was no warning when they went.
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I've noticed that my battery only charges to 6 out of the 8 bars and have never gotten it to go higher. How to get the battery to fully charge?
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I went to start my GS in the garage this morning and nothing happened. I couldn't even open the trunk or turn on any interior lights. I checked the battery with a multi-meter and it shows 5.25V. So for whatever reason, the battery drained itself overnight. I'm positive no lights were left on or doors left open. So this is a total mystery to me.
What might have caused this? Also, how to open the trunk after the battery dies. The car has been great for the first 7k miles and problem free until now.
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My ES 300h is not going to be driven for about 2 months. Will it start right up after that time or will the batteries be dead? How long can it sit idle and still start up again?
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After weeks of receiving an alert about my battery being low on my key fob I finally replaced the battery. But the drivers side door won't lock. The car does start, and even after you put it in reverse the doors still won't lock.
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I'd like to understand the rate of braking that results in the maximum recovery of energy into the battery. I try to brake so that the needle goes down almost to the bottom of the 'charge' region, but not so strongly that the needle completely bottoms out. I figure that if the needle bottoms out completely, I am using the friction brakes. Is that the correct way to use the brakes? What technique to achieve 40mpg use?
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Our car's don't have as great acceleration performance when hot / after having been driven for 30+ minutes?
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I'm trying to think of what gets affected on a vehicle which is driven about 20 to 25k miles a year. I'm looking to purchase one with the following description.
2006, 4.7L V8 is bulletproof, but with 165k miles already, what should I look for when inspecting the vehicle?
It's been dealer serviced. Is there anything other than normal wear and tear items that might be negatively impacted by doing so many road trips (lets say 300 miles at a time) That would be around 550 trips of 300 miles in 6 years.
The reason I ask this rather than just looking at the truck is because I'm in Dallas and the truck is at a Houston dealer... So before I drive out there, I wanted to "assume" what affect this kind of usage would do to an engine.
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I have a 2013 prius v 5. I bought it new from the dealer, and it has now 40,000 miles.
Lately, I've been having intermittent power failure problems.
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We've had our Prius v for a few weeks. Bought from a Toyota dealer who serviced the car (oil, filters, rotate) at 114,000 miles) before delivery. The car has been wonderful... until this week. We were on a 900 mile trip to the LA area from Texas, stopped for fuel at about 800 miles, Marino Valley, CA and when I got in to start the car it was completely dead. The day was hot, hitting 115F around Phoenix.
From my manual readings and priuschat readings I thought the 12V battery must have failed.
Car gave us zero warning of any sort of impending failure. The Toyota dealer told my wife and son "120,000 miles and 4 years old, yes, time to replace the 12V". In my opinion, Toyota engineering needs to find a way to detect impending failures, direct dealers to inspect/replace the 12V during routine service appointments (such as this car had 6 weeks prior), or light a dashboard light at certain mileage/age to recommend a new battery. I read another story here where the Prius (non-v) drive had total failure while entering a highway, with no warning signs, and only 1 year after replacement of his 12V.... now THAT would be terrifying.
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So the other day, jump in the car to head home from my exercise class and the dash is all lit up with warning lights including the exclamation point, but other than that, the car seems fine. Decided to drive the 2 miles home regardless and then drive carefully to the dealer another 3 miles away. They tell me the HV battery failed and they won't be able to get a replacement until early April. So I'm driving a free rental car which is fine. New battery is covered under the warranty. Car has less than 60K miles on it.
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The guy that I use to rebuild my batteries has recently commented that most of the bad cells he has replaced have been on the driver's side of the battery farther away from the cooling fan. He has since started rotating the cells as preventive maintenance as part of the rebuilding process.
I am interested in other peoples experience regarding where they are finding the defective cell/cells.
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I have a 2007 Prius with 92000 miles. All dashboard warning lights lit up the other day. Had it towed to the Toyota dealer and they first replaced the HV ECU. Now they are saying the traction battery needs to be replaced. They have had the car several days but they put me in a free rental.
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