Morning are getting colder engine runs at 1100 to warm up OK I understand that. But after running around town and engine is warm, I checked again, still at 1100 RPM. Shouldn't it be lower or is that what the batteries need?
View 1 RepliesMy ES 300h is not going to be driven for about 2 months. Will it start right up after that time or will the batteries be dead? How long can it sit idle and still start up again?
View 14 RepliesI'd like to understand the rate of braking that results in the maximum recovery of energy into the battery. I try to brake so that the needle goes down almost to the bottom of the 'charge' region, but not so strongly that the needle completely bottoms out. I figure that if the needle bottoms out completely, I am using the friction brakes. Is that the correct way to use the brakes? What technique to achieve 40mpg use?
View 14 RepliesI noticed on 5 different occasions so far this year that my idle speed will increase to around 1100 rpms when sitting at idle for more than a few min. Last summer it did it while running a/c, and today it did it with cold weather. The rpms are usually at 550, what happens is the pcm will decide to increase idle speed for no reason at all. Start driving it, and the next time at idle it will stop doing it, a couple times it went down to 550rpms, then went back up to 1100rpms. I recently changed the spark plugs, the air filter is clean, and runs good. I have a code scanner, no pending codes. I have 53k miles. I wonder what could cause this?
View 6 RepliesI have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
As other manufacturers match up with the Prius, it is interesting to see how this affects purchasing decisions.
The 2013 Prius Plug-in Advanced lists for $40,320:
It gets 95 MPGe for its 11 miles of battery power and 50 MPG in hybrid mode. The engine has 138 total horsepower = 98 HP Gas + 78 HP Electric engine 0-60 MPH is 10.6 seconds.
The 2013 Lexus ES 300h Hybrid lists for $39,725:
It gets 40 MPG city, 39 MPG highway, 40 MPG combined. The engine has 200 total horsepower = 150 HP Gas + 141 HP Electric engine. 0-60 MPH is 7.6 seconds. Top speed is 112 MPH.
Lexus dealerships will give you a free loaner Lexus while your car is in for maintenance or repair. Lexus mechanics are also sticklers for perfection. (After tune-ups, the car simply feels brand new - owning 5 Lexus cars myself).
I just purchased a new 2016 GS350. Traded up from a 2013 ES Ultra, which I loved. Love this car even more, from a sportiness perspective. Question to other GS owners. I've noticed a rough noise, or rough idle, when starting the car first thing in the morning, or after it has sat for some length of time. My 2008 ES sounded like that, as does my 2010 RX. My 2013 ES never sounded that way and my service advisor said they changed something in the engine or transmission in the ES. My 2013 purred when it started and never stopped. It was silky smooth.
The new GS just sounds rough for about a minute or so and then smoothes out. Of course, I asked about it and was told everything was normal, which is the standard Lexus comment. Said it sounds that way until something or other warms up or something like that. Im still trying to get used to the different drive and acceleration patterns of the GS vs the ES. Overall I love it. It's just a richer vehicle all the way around. Just curious about the idle. Is it normal?
I upgraded from a 2009 ES 350 to my 2013 GS 350 recently. One huge difference I noticed is the sound of the car while in idle. My ES was so quiet that sometimes it was hard to tell if it was on or off when parked. My GS has an irritating vibration noise from the outside that is very noticeable when I'm parked. I can hear it when my windows are down and I'm sitting in the driver's seat. It's not loud, so to speak, just incredibly irritating to the point where the vibration hurts your ears. When I'm in my garage and the sound is a bit more isolated, it sounds the loudest from the driver-side mid-to-back section of the car. However, the car itself doesn't feel like it's vibrating.
I also noticed at times when I start my car, my engine gets loud and the RPM shoots up to a bit past 2 (while still idle), then quiets down and evens out. Is this normal for this gen GS? The only reason I ask is because neither of things happened on my ES, so either I'm not used to it, or something is wrong. Driving/ performance seems normal. I do understand this engine should be a bit noisier than my ES and I am enjoying the extra HP and AWD ... I have a full, unlimited mileage warranty so getting anything fixed won't be an issue. My main concern is wasting my time going all the way to the dealership and embarrassing myself if it's completely normal.
Got a 13 f150 with the 5.0. I bought it used with about 14 thous kms, now it has 17. Ever since I owned it I noticed the idle was a bit jumpy warm or cold. I didn't really pay any attention to it as it wasnt throwing a CEL or anything but now that I have a roush exhaust and intake I have started to notice it a lot more....not that its worse but at idle my truck sounds like a boat. Weird comparison I know. It seems like it'll jump within +/- 200 rpm @ idle which IIRC is 1K rpm.
View 7 RepliesRecently, my car has been having issues starting. It will start if I get a boost, but will be dead if I turn it off again. Also, while I'm driving, the airbag, ABS, and traction lifts all come on, and eventually my radio will shut off, but after a few minutes the radio will come back on and the warning lights will go off. When i first start the car it idles as it should but if I rev it will idle at about 1100 RPM. What might be causing all of this? Battery? Alternator? Or EPC?
View 7 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 03 celica gt with around 126k on it. most resent it has had a problem of high idle its sits anywhere from 1100rpm to 2000rpm. I replaced the the tps sensor figuring it was the problems it seemed to get more consistent with the new tps it now sits at 1100 but it may still be high I don't drive it a lot. And I forgot to mention no engine lite. I've herd its not common with toyota. I also looked for vacuum leaks as well but found nothing.
View 5 RepliesSo my car started doing some weird things. at idle and only at idle it will go up and down between 1100 and 1500 rpm. No throttle input no clutch input or brake input. I do have a CEL on but when I read the code it gives me 01314 on brake electronics setting. I'm using a vchecker pro. I go into all the engine brake airbag and trans menus and do clear fault codes and this fixes it but id like to know what the actual problem is.
View 1 RepliesVW Passat b5 1.9 TDi AVF engine ... When I start my car in cold the idle keep moving from 800 to 1100 rpm. and sometimes when i start the engine in hot it revs till 2000 rpm. I never scanned with vag com? I think G62 sensor problem???
View 2 RepliesAudi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
2014 ES 300 hybrid- Rear seats are extra warm to hot. Took my car twice to the dealer and they are not able to locate the problem.
View 1 RepliesWhat is the service manual spec for the idle rpm on a 2012 LS (after warm up)? From my scan tool the idle in neutral is 720-730 rpm and in drive it's 780-800. Yes, lower in neutral. I find the car wants to creep forward against the brakes when stopped. The dealer says nothing wrong but has not given me what the idle specs are. Additionally, is the idle adjustable, if so how?
View 3 Replies2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
I noticed a slightly higher RPM at idle (1100-1200) with outside temps in the mid 50's after a 15 mile trip. I dont recall what it usually is, it just seemed to revving higher. What would say normal RPM's are on a warm engine.
View 8 RepliesWe have a brand new 2013 Ford Focus, a little over 2500 miles. We drove the vehicle to NYC, starting the trip with over 500 miles. During stop-n-go driving the following conditions are experienced: - car in drive but stopped, engine idles at 750rpm- car moving at crawl speed, less than 5mph, and RPM between 750 to 2100, engine acts as if it will stall (IT IS AN AUTOMATIC TRANS); when this happens there's an obvious shudder - again almost as if the car will stall out- cannot determine what gear its in, but probably first, second, or maybe third, but no higher
We took the car back to the dealer, but they acted as if this was a normal, if not, non existent issue; they were very dismissive.
I have a 1997 Ranger with a 3.0 v6 with a super high idle.
It idles at 2500 RPM when the IAC is plugged and a steady 1100 when unplugged. I have replaced the IAC twice now (dropped the first replacement. long story) and and have also checked for vac leaks with no results.
After about 2-3 minutes of idling at 2500 on a cold start it will drop down to 1100 (same as when IAC is unplugged), but after a 10 minutes or so drive it will idle steady at 2500 with minimal if any dropping in RPMs. This is driving me crazy not only because it sounds horrible but also because of the fact it's burning through fuel like it's going out of style.
I have checked the MAF sensor and it looks brand new (not the original owner) along with the O2 sensor. I have been meaning to check the TPS voltage to see if it's working correctly but without a working multi-meter it's making it difficult to do anything.
I'm at a loss with this right now and because of all the previous repairs i have done to it and the others that still need to be done i don't have the biggest budget to fix this problem nor the money the truck is using in gas.
Here's what's done to the car so far:
Evoms CAI
Autotech HPFP Insert
UM Fully Loaded Stage 2
Magnaflow Catback
R8 Coilpacks
Now my problem lies in the fact that the car has an unusual "loping" idle once it's warmed up. I noticed it very slightly when I first installed the catback simply because that exhaust is louder than stock. Now with the tune it seems to be even more noticible and ocasionally the engine will stumble upon a warm startup. I've pulled up VCDS and looked at the timing measuring blocks during idle and it varies between 0 and 13.5 BTDC/ATDC, the lowest the revs go is about 700 and the the car idles most of the time at about 800. A few hundred miles ago there was a code for Fuel pressure too high (P0088) and an o2 sensor reading too rich (P2271), I saved said codes and cleared them and they have not returned.