Lexus ES 2007-12 :: Passenger Window Tab Broken
Nov 25, 2013
Well it was a good run but after 6 years and 43,000 miles the window tab broke on the passenger window and now the window is off track on my 2007 ES 350. From everything I have read it's going to be a fairly expensive repair as the window will need to be replaced also.
I know there is a TSIB on this but, the car needs to be 48 months or 50,000 miles for it to be covered. I didn't know if I reached out to Lexus for some relief on this if they would at least cover some of the cost.
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On my 2007 Lexus ES350, the front passenger window does not stay up.
Using either the driver's switch or the passenger door switch, the window rolls up to the top, then comes back down (the other three windows work fine).
With deft manipulation of the switch, I can get it almost closed.
The only recent 'event' on the car is that I changed the eight year-old OEM battery two weeks ago; the window began acting up two days ago.
Is this programming that was lost when the battery was removed, or am I looking a regulator/pinch motor issue?
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That's the window regulator, right? It works fine but sounds like a computer printer from 1987 when it goes up and down. I've owned 3 5th gen ES cars and every single one had the problem. I stopped by the dealer today to use my aftermarket warranty to replace but they said they wanted a $150 diagnostic fee.
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My battery got too low and messed up my passenger window after charged. The issue now is...the strangest issue I've seen.. The passenger window! If I push the down button where it will automatically go down it just goes down and stops about an inch from hitting the bottom, If I push the up button to automatically go up BUT it will automatically goes down by itself when it hit the top and stop about an inch from bottom..
If I push the button soft to go up slowly and then let go the button when it reach the top it will stay.. Like I said it will not go down all the way, stop about an inch from bottom.
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Yesterday my passenger front window popped out of it's track. Then when we tried to pop it back in and get it to go back up, it completely popped out and up about 3 inches from the frame of the door. Enough to be able to fit a had through no problem.
I am taking the car in tomorrow to have it looked at and get a quote to fix. From what I've read, it's a super pricey fix. So bummed because I just bought the car about 6 weeks ago (if that) ...
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The Passenger power window button on my 2009 sonata is broken. Any tips on how to fix it? additionally, looking for a good youtube or other video site for repair videos/tutorials?
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So I was driving yesterday and my roof was still covered in snow. Came to a stop sign on a hill and all the snow from the roof decided to come off all at once onto my windshield. I turned the wipers on and only 1 wiper moved so I turned them off and then had to get out and clean all the snow off. Now my passenger side wiper arm doesn't move or moves randomly but not in sync with the other at all. If I lift the wiper arm up so the blade is in the air the arm moves no problem but the second I put the blade down it acts up again. It doesn't look bent or anything but it is loose and wobbly as in I can move the arm up and down where the drive side one seems pretty firm. How I can even take off the arm in the first place to look at it?
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I love my SC430, and want to keep it another ten years! BUT... I reclined the passenger seat this weekend, and now it won't go back up. Using the release lever, I can pull it up, but if you sit there or put any pressure on it, it falls right back down again to full reclining position.
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I have been observing the passenger window for weeks. It is definitely slower than the driver one going up. No problem going down. The passenger window seems to stop at some point then slowly keeps on going up. That does not look right, it is definitely getting worse and I am ready to open the door panel. That would be my first time with a door panel.
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The passenger window on my 07 Santa Fe isn't working. I took everything apart and I even removed the motor from the door and it seems like there is just constant power going to the motor because when I plug it in the motor starts going even before I hit the switch.
I also removed the motor from the regulator too and the regulator seems fine and no cables are broken or off their wheels. When I do hit the window switch either way the window motor stops too. I'm not sure if my issue is on the driver side switch or the passenger side because both do the same thing...
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Ok on my 07 camry se, my right front passenger window rattles when in the up position. I noticed after the car has been sitting for awhile, that it's quiet but when I decide to open the window and then close it it starts to rattle. Now this happens when driving over bumps or have the music turned up.
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I have a 07 Sonata. The front passenger side power window is not working. How can I determine whether its the window motor or regulator?
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About a month ago, I noticed my 2007 Mazda3 making a rattling noise whenever the front passenger window is anywhere from cracked to almost all the way down. When the window is up or all the way down, there is no noise. When the door is in it's "sound-prone" state, I can replicate the sound either by going over a bump or just pulling and pushing on the door interior door handle. I've looked this up online and it seems to be pointing toward me needing a new window regulator. I haven't noticed any function loss, just the rattling sound that makes it sound like the car's falling apart. Does this seem like the right thing to try? What would cause the regulator to malfunction after only four years? Should I buy new or look for it at the local salvage yards? If it matters, my Mazda3 has electric windows.
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Traveling down Highway 27 yesterday in my 2007 Santa Fe, doing 65 MPH, when all of a sudden I hear a tapping at the passenger seat window. There it was, the gasket that surrounds my windshield had pulled loose and was flapping in the wind, occasionally tapping on the window.
I have never had the windshield replaced nor had any notion there was a problem. I had no tools with me but tried to force the gasket back into its place. Lasted only a couple miles.
Took it to the Hyundai dealer in Ft. Myers who proceeded to tell me they didn't do windshields and that it was not covered under the warranty. I have 44000 miles and it is a 2007. Does that seem right?
I can understand light bulbs, oil changes and things like that not being covered, but rubber gaskets around the windshield?
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The driver side window goes up/down faster than the passenger one. I believe it has always been like that. Do you think that is a feature? Why is that? Could that be a defect?
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The front passenger window on my 2007 Sonata has always been sluggish. Recently it broke (I heard something snap) when I tried to roll it down on a cold day. I decided I want to take a shot at fixing it myself before bringing it in to the mechanic. I've made some progress but I'm having trouble removing the inner door panel where the window regulator mechanism is.
The window can be pushed down or pulled up by hand fairly easily, but there's enough resistance (for now) to hold it in place and keep it from just dropping down into the door.
I removed the main door panel without any problems. The window regulator cables and mechanism are behind a second panel that I'm having trouble removing and I can see through the holes in the inner panel that the window is still attached to the two "lifters".
I haven't been able to find a lot of detailed instructions for this step. I've been following the steps outlined in some this youtube video [URL] ...., but there seems to be something I'm missing when I try to get the panel off.
I have freed the black adhesive around the edge of the panel, and I've removed all the main bolts on the inside of the door, the 3 bolts at the door latch, detached the inner door handle and removed the outer door handle, but I still can't get much movement in the panel to free it. I'm hesitant to tug or pry the panel too hard because I don't want to bend the metal at all and ruin the fit with the door.
Is there any trick to loosening the panel so that it comes out and I can get behind it? Do I need to slide or rotate it, or is it held by any clips similar to the ones that held the main door panel? Most of the resistance seems to be coming from the area to the right of the speaker (between the speaker and where the inside handle to close the door would be). I can try to provide more details if necessary.
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My passenger side window won't roll down. Everything else on the door works including the mirror. Guessing the motor, is there a way to check it?
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At the 150K mile mark electromechanical components are starting to fail (Nav DVD reader, CD changer, 2 starters (they seem good for only ~70K miles), brake switch, etc.) which is probably reasonable to expect, even in a non-humid climate. Recently, the controls for the passenger side window stopped working. Some details:
- Driver's side window control works to control driver's side window
- Passenger side window switch LEDs are not lit on either door
- Passenger side window rolls up and down when top is changed to up or down position
Given that the motor is proven good by the fact that the window goes up and down with no problems when the top's position is changed, I'm inclined to think that there is probably an issue with the "COMPUTER MPX DOOR" component in the passenger door.
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My buddy just picked up a 2007 passat 2.0t. Upon bringing it home and locking it we noticed the horn didn't beep indicating an active alarm. I discovered the rear passenger door wasn't locking, and when opening it, even though the alarm was activated, the alarm didn't go off. The door unlock/lock switch as well as the window switch both aren't working. Can't open the window from the driver's door switch either.
I'm guessing it's probably something to do with the power to the door since it's completely unresponsive. Where would we be able to check if power is going to the door? Also, since the alarm doesn't go off when opened is there a sensor somewhere that says when the door is open and or locked?
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I have a broken rear strut on my 2009 LS 460 with 27000 miles. First noticed it about 25000 but dealer said it was only the cold weather and all was fine. I had a mechanic friend ride with me and he said I had a broken part in the rear suspension. Back to the dealer and this time they test drove it and diagnosed the broken rear strut. The tech told me that they had recently seen several LS 460's with the same problem. The broken strut causes handling problems and I am reluctant to drive at highway speeds.
The dealer (and all the other dealers I called) said that there are no parts available for the repair and one told me that the last strut had to be brought from Japan.
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I just tried to lower my passenger window, and it was completely dead. Driver's side works fine. Tried both the switch on driver's side and passenger side. Neither worked to lower passenger window.
Popped the hood and swapped out Pass & Driver's fuses. Pass side fuse is ok - ran the Driver's side ok.
Dropped the top and both windows ran down and back up ok. I'm guessing connection in driver's door(?). Maybe that switch for passenger window is bad?
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