Lexus ES 2007-12 :: No Power And Stays In 1st Gear All The Way Up To 4000 Rpm Then Shifts
Jan 31, 2013
ES350 Transmission - I have the following issue that has happened to me twice now.
When it's cold outside (around -10C or below), I start the car and let it run for about 1 minute. I pull out of the parking lot and drive down the street for a very short distance and stop at the intersection and wait to turn left. This only happens when I wait for a minute or more. I go to turn left and the car feels like it has no power and stays in 1st gear all the way up to 4000 rpm and then shifts. After this the car is totally fine and it shifts at the normal 1500 rpm or so going about 15km/hr. When I'm sitting at the intersection waiting to turn, the car is idling at about 1200 rpm or so while the car is warming up.
I've tried many times to recreate the issue but I couldn't do it because I never let the car sit and idle. If it's constantly moving with stop and go it's fine.
I called the Lexus dealer to ask about this and they told me the first thing to do is change the transmission fluid because it could be low or dirty. The car is 6 1/2 years old (July 2006) with 58,000km on it. They said the transmission fluid should be changed at the 6 year interval. They also asked me if I had the car in the shift manual mode (which I didn't) because it seemed to exhibit this behaviour.
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Ok so here is my problem now. I'm sure its in the tramny but not sure what else. My shift from 3-5 has always been a little hard. Yesterday on my way to work I noticed shifts 1 thru 3 were hitting hard. Once I got up to 65 mph it was okay. Then pulling into work when I shifted to reverse it didn't go into gear right away and then it would hit into gear. Later that evening on my way home from work it was shifting the same but seemed worse. Then my tow/haul light started flashing and it seemed like the torque convertor wouldn't lock in. It would just stay in 5th gear and the more throttle I gave it the rpms would go up but I would only get a little response from it. Then a few miles down the road it just completely shut off on me. It will not even try to turn over. I could also hear a noise coming from underneath the truck. Something ive never heard before. I really need to figure this out
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Replaced the 2002 ford explorer 4x4 traction control module because of a shudder in first gear. With the new module the shudder disappeared but now the truck shifts into 4wd by itself and stays there. I am now on my 2nd new module because I returned the first one thinking it was defective.
If I cycle the 4x4 high switch and the 4x4 auto switch, the truck switches back int 2wd but on for a moment then goes back into 4wd. I don't get a 4x4high indicator light but I can hear and feel it is in 4wd. Almost like it thinks the truck needs work with the traction. I have now disconnected the module completely and the trucks runs/shifts beautifully in 2wd. I know my transmission is good. BTW, I have no trouble codes.
Do I have a bad speed sensor somewhere? and How do I trouble shoot for it?
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My gf's dad said I could have his 07 Ranger 4.0 2wd with 230K on the clock if I fix the tranny 5R55E. One day he was driving home and all of a sudden had no drive. The tranny will run thru drive, neutral and reverse, but has no drive to it. Engine revs with nothing to show.
Tranny fluid was very dark and pan had nothing but the usual "metal flour" in it. I stopped there, did not pull the filter or anything else.
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I've noticed that under mid-throttle condition, there is a jarring lag when the car shifts from 3rd to 4th gear Always exactly from 3rd to 4th gear.. no other gears. The car will literally lurch as if the gas is cut momentarily. If the pedal is mashed to the firewall (which.. it frequently is).. then it shifts fine.
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I have a 2007 Prius that I bought in October. Haven't had any problems until now. Took a road trip to Reno (from San Francisco), and on the way back, when starting the car (break fully pressed), the power button's LED would light up red. The car, however, still starts, and shifts into gear.
I had read that when the LED button is red, it is in accessory only mode and won't shift into gear. This is not the case, though, since I drove the 4 hours home without problem. We made multiple stops on the way home, and every time the light flashed red, then started as normal.
What is going on? The closest I could find is that perhaps it had to do with the 12V battery, but, who knows, since I'm not getting the red triangle of death light or anything else abnormal.
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For the first mile or so on cold mornings, by transmission shifts slowly - sort of a second or two delay until the car warms up. Is this normal?
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I have an 08 460 LS. I am experiencing sluggish acceleration. It feels like the car is in the wrong gear and has no power. This is intermittent and most of the time ok. Occasionally it is jerky when pulling out when it has proper power.
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While I am driving, when I hit 25-45 MPH, the wheel suddenly rotates clockwise ~20 degrees while the path of the car stays pretty straight. There is some play at lower speeds too, but the the 25-45 MPH shift is the most dramatic. I have a video here where I am applying minimal grip to the wheel, so the rotations you see (especially ~9 seconds in) are not me. The sound is an item on my passenger seat, so that is unrelated.
I checked out the suspension and the front left control arm has some give at the bushing/joint, but that strikes me as a side issue. Everything else feels sturdy in the suspension. Anything else I can do to diagnose? I suspect this has something to do with the power steering which I have never dealt with before. 1999 ES300....
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Having transmission problems? Everything I've read before says these transmissions are better than gm Allison's and they can handle up to 600 horse before you gotta worry about beefing them up but mines starting to act funny.
How important is the transmission tune? My truck it's tuned with the spe hot tune and trans tune. Didn't like the way it clunk bang hard shifts though so I ran factory trans tune for a while but it felt very soft like it was slipping when I got after it on the performance setting of spe hot so I went back to spe trans file.
I get a little twang sound that sounds like it's coming from the trans between 3-4 gear shifts, initially only heard it after getting on it hard in performance but it's getting worse and happens on stock power level under light acceleration now sometimes. Also I lost all gears briefly and it wouldn't shift into manual at all when I stopped to turn around the other day.
Working fine in drive but when I shifted out to reverse it had nothing in any gear and manual wouldn't light up on the display. I shut it off and restarted the engine and it came back and worked fine after that but not sure what happened there, don't think it's good though. Did using the stock transmission file with the hot engine tune or the hard clunk bang custom trans file up my trans, freak malfunction?
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My beloved Treg is marooned at the dealer again, having been towed there this morning. Transmission is all over the place...shifts into 5th and stays there, or extremely jerky shifts - especially downshifts. Gear position indicator is highlighted in red and no longer indicates which gear I'm in. Check engine light is on; no message in MFI...
Incidentally, it appears that the dealer and/or VWOA is starting to understand how to treat luxury vehicle buyers. Roadside assistance was very responsive and courteous. Dealer set me up with a rental from Budget...made a point to have me pick something similar to the Treg (not a POS econobox). I'm driving a Ford Exploder...a far cry from the Treg, but at least it's an SUV and has similar seating and hauling capacity.
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I have had this 2008 ES 350 since 2010. Best car I have owned. EXCEPT for winter driving as the wheels stop spinning and it leaves you stuck. give me the old rear wheel drive any day. The main concern right now is, my dash has a red "brake" light that has been on for a week now. sometimes in the afternoon it goes out for a while. I have almost 42,000 mi. would that indicate I need to change the brake pads, which in turn lowers the fluid?
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I currently have a 2006 F-250 6.0 with 187,XXX.
My problem that i am having is that the transmission recently within a couple weeks started acting weird about the same time 3 of my fuel injectors started failing. When i start up the truck and put it into drive it takes about 3-5 seconds to shift. Once it's in drive it runs pretty well but it will start shifting out of normal when i go to accelerate. Also when i go to slow down sometime the transmission shifts hard to a lower gear. I also have a video of the sound that it had started to make since its hard to describe.
Here are attached videos and photos. I want to hopefully fix the problems myself so i can learn more about my truck. I am going to handle the fuel injectors here soon since 2 are failing and ones about to these have been causing the truck to shudder at around 47-53 mph but after that its fine.
The transmission is stocked and never been altered, i do admit for 3-4 years I have changed the fluids or filters.
The truck is bullet proofed, sct tuner, upgraded turbo from stock, 4" exhaust, head studs and new everything when the engine was rebuilt and bulletproofed.
I plan on going to ford tmw to have them figure out the problem and hopefully its just solenoids so i can fix it myself. I have a link posted also where you can hear the noise it has been making when in R P and when shifting going down the road and it is a automatic.
YouTube.....
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I recently (July 2016) bought a 2012 2.0T Limited with 14K miles. Got an awesome deal on it and really love the car. About two months ago the car had a total loss of power/boost. I took it into the dealer and they performed a wastegate actuator adjustment (something I will be doing on my own now if it becomes a problem again). Now at about 21k miles I'm having a different issue. Here is what's happening:
Accelerating from a stop the car feels as if it's falling out of gear intermittently. Once it happens and I press the gas more/floor it, the car doesn't respond. If I let off the gas and then press it again, the car will then start to accelerate again. On the highway cruising at 70ish, the same thing happens and it even oscillates with constant throttle like its down/up shifting. The ESC light came after a 20 mile highway trip of this oscillation. No CEL. When I got off the freeway, the navigation screen said there may be a problem and I should press the bluelink button.
When this is happening the cruise control either doesn't work at all or the "cruise" light will come on but I can't set a speed. Tonight I noticed in the rear view mirror that the brake light stays on or even flutters after I brake which corresponds to when the cruise is or isnt working as well as when the car intermittently falls out of gear/oscillates falling out of gear with constant throttle. If I notice the brake light is on without actually braking, I can take my foot and pull the brake pedal towards me which turns off the brake light and then the car seems to work correctly as well as the cruise control. The car is driveable but definitely something is wrong.
I should mention that I checked the voltage for the wastegate actuator and it is 3.97v which I believe is within tolerance. All of these issues with no CEL.
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Shifts slowly or stays in shifting mode longer than necessary. Must stop accelerating and wait a few seconds until the shifting is complete. Does something need adjusting?
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After I turn the car off the "PARK" light in the Dash stays lit for about 6 seconds after all the other lights have turned off. Is this normal?
I will advise, I have the parking brake set to auto and the car seems to be functioning normally.
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Driving home today I was cruising along hwy about 50mph. I threw the shifter over to the manual mode and noticed immediately that it must put it into a lower gear than I was in when I was in automatic bc the rpm jumped up a little higher. I think it put me in 4th or 5th?? I put it back in auto mode and rpms went back to normal. I'm guessing it's the normal way it operates?
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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I've noticed lately, that when I do some spirited driving, my rcf is making this weird raspy type ticking noise from around 2500 rpm to 4000 rpm. It definitely doesn't sound normal...
When I take my car in for body repair next week, I plan on having the dealership change the breaks according to the TSB issued and also checking out this noise.
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I have an my 2008 Golf mk5 R32 DSG. I have fitted the GruppeM Intake , done the decat and fitted a Milltek Resonated system. I am based around 1.12 miles above sea level and our fuel here is probably the equivalent of your 91. I had the car dyno'd yesterday with the graph below :
1. What is causing the horrible dip in torque and power just after 4000rpm? Do R32 graphs general look like this? Could it be a result of the variable valve timing?
2. I have a feeling my DSG's mechatronics unit is faulty , could that cause a loss in power or have a result on the dyno run?
3. The power does look low but if I convert it to coastal power it looks to be around 150wkw and 300Nm which seems right?
The biggest concern is the dip in the graph ... Power was measured at all 4 wheels ...
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There is a mile of downhill on my way to work every day. I oberseved that when I step on the brake to slow down, the RPM jumps from 2000 to 4000 all of a sudden and stay there for a few second. Without my foot on the brake, the tachometer stays around 2000 rpm. Is it normal? Why does the engine do this?
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