Lexus ES 2007-12 :: Metal Thump - Replaced Sway Bar Link
Aug 15, 2015
2008 ES 350 sway bar replace, confirmed diagnose of metal thump, like dead blow metal to metal, mostly bumps, rough roads. etc, it wasnt' a vibration, but finally moved the sway bar link up and down on jack stands and could see and hear the top joint of the sway bar link moving.
It wasnt a bad job, but if your in the Rust Belt, the nuts aren't happy coming off, and I highly recommend a air saw to ease the pain. If you dont have a saw, and your in the Rust Belt make sure you clean the heck outta the rust in the threads, cause it just jams the works as your easing the nut off the stud.
Need 17mm wrench (i used box end rachet) and 6mm allen , its got that stupid set up off the allen slot in the end of the stud to steady that, and they you gotta work the bolt off at the same time, not a one hand operation.
Start by spraying the snot outta the 17mm nut and stud with Blaster, Hold onto the allen key wrench and I whacked the rachet with a dead blow hammer and was able to get it to bust loose, now you just have to ease the nut off with whatever it'll give you. After I got some room for the air saw blade, I just whacked it with the saw.
Careful if you just start with a cut off operation into the rubber boot of the stud, there is a shoulder that wont allow it to just pull thru, you have to cut the stud on the nut side of the sway bar in order for it to pull thru.
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Car: 02 Passat GLX 4motion V6 AWD
I'm in process of replacing the rear strut and I can't remove the way bar link bolt out. It is really tight into the inner rubber and it won't buzz. The bolt sits in a way that I can't use a hammer.
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I am having difficulty with my front sway bar downlinks, they keep coming loose. I have recently replaced them for the same reason with some O'Reilly Auto Parts house brands, they seemed alright when compared to the Motorcraft replacements, they even had grease fittings which was unusual for some of the others I have seen. I have torqued them down, I have tried red locktite, the only thing I have not tried is to weld them. It is only the lower nut which keeps coming loose.
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My Ex has a 4-inck Sky Jacker lift and I need to replace one of the sway bar end link bushing. Is the bushing size same as the stock ones? Need to know so I can order the right ones. What is the Energy Suspension part#....
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Chasing a noise in the front, seems to be more on the passenger side, and I think I have it narrowed down to the link ends or subframe. I have ST coil overs, came on the car, and already did the 034 mounts and bearings to solve another noise but this one is different. The links are original and I saw some performance ones that are a bit shorter for a slightly lowered car. Should it have shorter ones due to the coil overs?
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I recently replaced Sway Bar Links on my 2000 X (V10, 4x4, 155k). They were only a year and half old but the bushings had gave way. Mechanic went with an OEM part with a new design from NAPA. This new design added grease fittings. Now the truck rattles constantly and seems to have more sway. Shocks are probably originals, but I don't think they are the main cause. I can tell the rattle is coming through the frame. All my suspension is stock.
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We all know the sway bar end link problems in the early superdutys. Several years ago I installed energy suspension bushings and thought the problems were gone. Lately it started clunking again. I tightened the bolts with a breaker bar and it worked. but now it making noise again. I purchased a set of mevotech end links. Upon installation I found the problem.
Over the years of clunking the bolt hole on the upper driver side is no longer round. It has become oval shaped. I read a couple threads on here about this problem. I can't drill them out as the mevotechs have studs not bolts. Can I get the mounting bracket that bolts to the frame. Its a triangle shaped piece that the end link stud goes through. I have tried searching for it online to no avail. Whats it called?
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Working on my 2000 Excursion, 7.3, 4x4. Replacing front sway bar link arms and sway bar bushings. I got the driver side arm and the sway bar bushings done and have run into a problem removing the passenger side link arm. When removing the top connection bolt there's not enough clearance when extracting. I've gotten it loose, but as I go to pull it off, it butts up against the bell housing with about an inch of bolt left to clear the frame.
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This is my sway bar and drag link look like with the wheel turned all the way to the right. When I took these pictures, I had put the right tire on the curb too see what it was going too look like. However. Even with all wheels on level ground. It still is running very close. When the steering is straight, I have maybe 1" to 1.5" clearance between the 2. My truck does have a readylift 2.5" level kit on it. Running like this stock or leveled? Should I look around for longer sway bar links?
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2004 F-250 140k 4wd 6.0. Front end had noise, standard sway bar link knock. I disconnected the sway bar on the drivers side and drove it around. Smooth and noise free. Determined new links were needed, Installed new links and now even more noise. Disconnect them and no noise again. What am i missing? Bushings look good on the axle. Is the pressure from the sway bar putting strain on another wore part?
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I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
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For last couple of days the car is making a Thump sound when the engine turns over. then it gone- single thump sound....It only happens in the morning if the car is sitting in the garage overnight. I do not hear it if i park the car at work after 8 hours does not make the same sound.
I also feel it takes a bit tad longer to start the car(again only in the morning)- i thought it was the battery but the battery has been replaced 2 years ago.
i will try to record the sound tomorrow and post it. the car is fine once started no funny sounds or anything. Its a 2011 with 71k miles on it.
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I just picked up a used 2009 LS 460 AWD last week with 45K miles. I have put about 1000 miles on it so far myself.
When I hit any small depression in the road at 10-45 mph I hear a thump in the rear. The bigger the depression and the more weight in the backseat, the louder the thump noise and even an occasional bottoming out feeling occurs. It hasn't happened at highway speeds so far.
The bottoming out feel occurs only with a medium to large depression. I am not talking about a pot hole, just pavement depressions where two sections are not of equal height or you are transitioning from a primary road to a side street and the is a depression to allow for water run off, etc.
If I have someone sitting in the passenger seat and the backseat and accelerate quickly from a dead stop, I get a similar rear thump and even a bottoming out feel. This occasionally occurs even without a without a depression in the road. With no one in the back seat it does not do it unless there is a big depression in the road.
Finally, when cornering on a 270 degree off ramp at 40 to 50 MPH the rear end will start to hop and bounce. If I slow down to 15-20 mph it goes away. Still, it is irritating and embarrassing. I have tried all comfort settings and get the same results.
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I first noticed this recently as my wife was pulling out of the driveway into the street... The car wasn't cold, as it had been running for a bit over 5 minutes, warming up. My driveway slopes a bit towards the street and also has a dip/hump at the end of it. As she pulled out in R from P, I heard a thump. I also hear a noise which sounds like the brakes engaging. So in order, brakes engaging, shift from P to R, the thump then as it backs up and turns into the street, there's a slight, faint grind noise.
As the car stops to go from R to D, it thumps again. But as it goes into drive and pulls away..smooth as butter and quiet. I've heard and read that it's possible motor mounts. I'm wondering if the light grinding is the actuator...or perhaps dried out bushings in the control arms... Also read the possibility of the trans going bad, which I highly doubt, but who knows. My plan is to call Lexus in the morning and see if I can be squeezed in.
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe AWD Limited. 90,000 miles. I have a strange sound I need identifying. At first I thought the sound was my AC depressurizing, but it's not that. It sounds similar, but has a faint metal-on-metal jingle sound to it, like something is rubbing or something is rotating and intermittently hitting something just slightly. The mechanic went in to change the water pump because it was leaking, and he thought that the water pump when rotating was rubbing because the rubber ring/gasket was failing, therefore making that sound. Not it. Tired rotated and new brake pads put on. Still there. To be clear, the mechanic never said he heard the sound. I just told him about it.
I can hear the sound when I turn the car on and put it in reverse start backing up. I can hear it when I let off the brake (driving and in park), which lead me to believe that it could have been the pressure in the Master Cylinder or ABS. I don't know now because it does it intermittently when I am driving down the road with no brake applied. When I park, I put the car in Park, get off the brake and just listen. And I can hear it. When it is in park it is more rhythmic, with two or three second breaks in between. kshhh kshhh kshhh kshhh. (I hope you like my poor attempts at sound effects.)
Is it the ABS system? Don't tell me it's transmission related. I just bought this car (used at 87,000 miles) and already had the struts done, the water pump and drive belt done. For what it's worth, this car's passenger and back seats vibrate at 60+. Not sure if that has anything to do with this sound, but thought I would mention it. New struts and tire rotation did nothing.
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I just realized my CPO 2011 is still under factory B2B warranty. There is only one thing wrong with it, the matte finish is coming off the metal trim surrounding the nav system, revealing chrome underneath. It looks like the part is matte clearcoat over chrome. Pics attached of the areas.....
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When driving in my parking garage, I can hear a slight metal on metal noise. An extreme example would be sharpening a knife on a sharpener, its not as loud or predominate.
-I've checked the lugs, they are secure.
Car has springs and spacers.
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I have a 1997 Lexus LX450. I just had the AC unit replaced. On the way home from the repair shop, the oil gauge did not work. Then some antifreeze leaked out of the bottom of the front end below the radiator. Now it looks like there's antifreeze in the oil since the dip stick fluid level is an inch or two above "full" and the oil has an orange tint to it? Did the mechanic screw something up?
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I have an '07 ES350. I was riding my motorcycle today and the key to my Lexus fell out of my pocket at 140mph. I recovered it to find that it popped semi-open. The key battery had become loose and damaged. The microchip looks just fine, as well as the key fob itself. I replaced the key battery and the key was not detected by the car. I used the procedure to start the car by holding the fob up close to the start button. It worked just fine, but the key fob will no longer lock and unlock the car.
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After installing new battery, I have no functioning air conditioning or heating system. When I select the climate button I get a message (check connection to air condition). What is going on?
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