07/ES350. Feel vibrations when the lever is on D or R? It started to vibrate a little bit on D, when the engine is hot. No lights. I noticed that when I shift in D there's no rpm rise.
View 2 RepliesI made a post earlier about rough vibrations at idle on my 07 camry le not too long ago. I cleaned my throttle body and it worked, but now they are back and worse then ever. Now the vibrations go in and out, like it vibrates for a second the stops for a second then starts vibrating again until I move and stop at the next light and then the in and out vibrations are back. Also sometimes I hear metal hitting sounds.
Just had an oil change and oil changes are always on time so I doubt it's the engine knocking. Also when the AC is on the vibrations just become very unbearable. Finally sometimes when I turn the steering wheel while barely moving or not moving at all the vibrations get as bad as when the AC is on and very noisy. Also I noticed turning the steering wheel raises the rpms but then drop back. I tried to record the sounds, but as usual video of sounds are useless.
I own an LS 460 and since I had the latest recall done (ELS potential fuel pressure sensor leak) my car has been idling higher than normal and i am having a constant vibration on the steering wheel in drive mode while in a stand still.
View 5 Replies2003 Explorer tranny. 4.0 V6, 213km (133 miles)... Biggest concern is 4-5 upshift shudder, no rpm rise, just a shudder and slow shift. Slight shudder on 3-4 too, I think. Some online reading points to torque converter failure.
Other symptoms: sometimes slams into gear when shifting out of park, other times it feels like there is no fluid in converter when first put into gear, especially after sitting a day or 2. (my truck does the same thing, but that's after sitting 2-3 weeks at a time)...
I am wondering what would cause the idle on a 1992 bmw 525i to drastically rise and fall continuously.
View 5 RepliesSo at low idle my fan is running like 230rpm according to torque pro. I think this is causimg my ect to rise when at idle. It's usually 192-194* but if I'm idling in traffic or just In general (after it's been running a while) it climbs to 195.8, 197, 199.2, 201, 203, 204.8. Haven't seen it get higher than the 204. Now once I get moving again it will lower back down. I can see where I have flow into the degas not to mention the water pump is new. Could my low fan speed be my issue? I believe it should be more around 500rpm at low idle.
View 14 RepliesAt idle, on hot days (90+) after about a minute, the A/C cuts out and the temp gauge begins to rise. Gets about 3/4 of the way to the red zone, but never reaches it. I changed radiator cap, but still does it. Fluid level is fine; no coolant leaks that I can see. Called a mechanic and asked about a radiator flush. He said he'd do one, but it probably wouldn't work and I should just bring it in for a diagnostic.
View 7 RepliesModel 2007 Toyota Camry 4cyl
Milage 121K
Service preformed by me @ 119K:
- changed sparkplugs (toyota part)
- changed drivebelt (toyota part)
- changed new battery (Costco battery)
- changed engine air filter(toyota part)
- Oil change every 5K
- Trans flush (toyota part: Type WS fluid: 16 Qts)
- Transflush also preformed at 60K
Problem: So beginning of this week I was driving on the HWY and as most of us like to overtake while driving, so I stepped on the gas pedal hard. The vehicle downshifted to lower gear and RPM got up to 5 to 6K for 3 seconds then suddenly vehicle slowed down. When this happened it was like hitting a brick wall. I don't know if the engine braked so hard or transmission did. I never had this happen to me.
No transmission noise or engine noise. Car at the moment runs fine. The problem is that now every time I step on the gas from steady cruise, RPM will rise up to 4K or so and I do feel that vehicle down shifts but RPM will drop down to 2K and slow climb as vehicle picks up speed. So during this time I can floor the gas pedal but very very little response of the engine. Its like something is holding the vehicle back.
So I went to autostore to see if I have any pending codes as no check engine light or abs...
One pending code came up: C1241 (Low Battery Positive Voltage)
I just locked out the cam phasers on a 2005 f150 with a 5.4. It now idles pretty rough. If I blip the throttle the revs will rise and then drop again, and it barely catches in time to prevent a stall. If I continue to tease it this way I can usually get it to stall. I'm getting no CELs or anything, but I intermittently will get a P035x code (it seemed to rove. I've gotten cylinder 1, 4, 6, but not consistently.). I have chased those around by swapping coils, checking/cleaning the connectors, etc.
I am kind of thinking that these codes are a symptom of my idle issues, and not the actual problem. What could I have done wrong? Could it be a vac issue? I had basically the entire ECU harness and all the vac lines disconnected to do the job, but as far as I can tell everything has been reconnected to the correct locations. I did have an SCT tune done to remove the phasers in the ECU. I installed it and still have the issue, so for now I am on the stock tune just to eliminate any variables.
Could my tune be the issue? Is this how you would expect the engine to behave with locked out phasers and no corresponding ECU tune?
I've noticed that in the past week or so, whenever I'm stuck in traffic for a few minutes, the engine temp will slowly rise. it gets really bad if traffic is crawling; the temp has reached that 2nd highest line before the red area.
Whenever I get going again and hit the gas, the temp drops. What it is?
Car is currently at 86k miles. I don't believe the water pump has been replaced yet.
I have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
View 1 RepliesI'm owner of Lexus ls 460 from 2008. Today I noticed that when I turned A/C and lights off rpm's are dropping to 500. With P mode is all ok, but when I shift to D and I depress the brake pedal steering wheel and the car shakes. Battery is ok and charging from alternator is 14.20. When I turn on the air conditioning, vibration disappear and RPM's rising to 600/700. The engine is warm (has normal temperature"). Tt is strange to me that when I shift to R I do not feel no vibration.
View 14 RepliesI assume it's normal but at say 35 MPH or so coasting down a hill when applying the brake the RPM's rise to around 3K. Auto downshift to support braking?
View 10 RepliesLooking for instructions and pictures or video on how to change the bulb in the gear shift panel of my 2007 ES....
View 2 RepliesI have just purchased this vehicle with only 19k miles. The problem, if there is one is as follows. At about 55 a vibration begins to occur and stays steady as speed increases. Had all of the tires replaced and thrust forced balanced. Yet still this vibration comes in. The car is perfectly smooth before 50. I drove another 07 of the exact same type and it appears that it had the same issue. Any further information that may alleviate this problem.
View 2 RepliesI bought a new IS 250 F-sport 2 weeks ago and the tire indicator drives me crazy. The low tire pressure light on twice in a week. I added up to 36pis (Recommended Pressure) and all tires went down after a few days. I went back to Lexus today for tire pressure. Every tire is okay but tire pressure is low only. Btw, my gas indicator did not rise up after I filled gas. The indicator started to rise up after I drove about 2 miles. Is that normal for a new car?
View 11 RepliesI purchase my 05 GX470 last April,
Had the timing belt and water pump replaced as part of the deal. Lately in the cooler temperatures around the freezing point I've noticed that the temp gauge does not start to rise until I've driven about five minutes, longer if I go thru a drive thru and the truck is idling in the line up and the heater fan does not come on until I've driven about 10 minutes. The temp gauge takes about 15 -20 minutes of driving till it hits normal or half way on the scale. This seems longer than what I consider normal, at least for the heat to come on.
The area where you shift transmission gears isn't lighted. Find that strange even though you can see what gear you're in on the lighted panel. Gear not the right term, but think you know what I mean.
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2011 lexus es350 with a bad transmission. I purchased the car 4 months ago with 50,000 miles on it. I noticed in the carfax that the transmission fluid was changed at 25,000 miles??? I knew that wasn't normal. After having the car for 4 months i noticed the transmission would shift rough in the mornings. I took it to lexus and they added more transmission fluid to the tranny. After I got the car back it had no getup and go. And the car would stutter when revving at high rpm.
View 9 RepliesMy 2007 es350 is already warmed up, so I know its not a temp issue.
My VSC light comes on (i know it comes on with any DTC)
My traction control light is on
My engine light is on
Now, when driving, it doesnt shift out of first gear till about 4K rpm and thats at normal acceleration (not flooring it) and shifts out of range on all other gears.
I can hear a humming/winding noise coming from the left side of the car (tray side) and it does it and I can hear it very clearly when letting off the accelerator (more noticeable at high speeds)
So I recently purchased a 2007 LS460 with 115k on it. I've noticed that about a month ago the car started driving pretty weird. The transmission would shift hard and jerky almost through the first 3 gears, like driving a manual.
Also, when I tried to floor the car from maybe 40-50mph, the rpm would shoot up only 500 then downshift and accelerate causing a violent jerk. It feels like if I was driving at 50mph on 8th gear, when I floored it the car would feel like it downshifted to 7th gear for merely less than a second and downshifted again to 4th gear causing the car to jerk hard.
This is the car's history:
- Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery (no luck)
- Auto transmission software has been updated at the dealer
- Valve springs recall has been completed
- Head covers has been changed
- Engine module has been reprogrammed by the dealer at 70k miles
- Trans fluid has been changed at 70k miles according to lexus.com service record
So at this point I really don't know what could cause this problem anymore, maybe it could be the transmission fluid?