Just purchased a beautiful 2007 ES 350. Love it but when I start it first thing in the morning, the idles shoots to 1800 for a second then up to 2000 for about 10 seconds then slowly comes down to 600ish. Also, during this "1800 and 2000" time, the oil maintenance light comes for a few seconds. Oil was changed just prior to purchase. Car has 100k and rides immaculate- 25.5 mpg mixed.
View 4 RepliesSo I had this issue with my idling at 1300 rpms but every now and then it would idle at 400 and barley run then one day it didnt want to idle at all so I checked the iac and it was bad so I changed my oil, fuel filter, iac, cleaned my throttle body, fixed a vacuum hose, and cleaned my air filter.
When I started it it idle at 2200 I drove it a little and it dropped down to 1300 the next day I started it and it idled at 800 and staid there for four days now it idles at 2000 then will drop down and surge between 1300 and 1800.
I read that the oil you apply to the filter can contaminate the Maf and you should clean it but a lot of people said the one on a vr4 can't be cleaned while others say it fine. Is there a way to check the maf?
I have recently bought a 2007 ES350 that's runs fantastic considering I bought it with high miles from the Lexus dealer (149k). I live in warm climate area and I notice that even though it's not cold out in the mornings my car idles high (at about 2k) for only a few minutes 2-4 tops then starts to drop to normal as it warms up. It hurts me to hear it as I'm not use to this and I worry that it may cause damage to my engine due to oil not being circulated properly yet.
Most importantly, ONLY when cold, I hear a very light knocking sound, kinda like a bad lifter tick, but by the time I get to my daughters school which is about 5-6 miles away it goes away and sounds normal at that point. Had me very concerned as I just bought it less than a few weeks ago and I'm afraid something was wrong and dealer may been able to mask it at my point of purchase and now its starting to rear its ugly head.
This is my first Lexus ES350, not really sure if it's normal or not. I can tell you, when it warms up, I've jumped out of my car and have put me ear to the good and can't hear the tick. Should I be concerned? Is high idle with tick normal if it goes away when it warms up or is it a fair warning something is bad or about to go bad?
I've switched the fuel pump on this car more than once and made sure the fuel line isn't crimped yet it still hesitates. Also, the temp. shoots up when idling and appears to need either a fan or temp. switch?
View 4 RepliesI purchased a 2014 LWB six weeks ago. The vehicle runs great. For the last three weeks, I hear an unusual high-pitched sound when starting the engine for the first time that day (temperature between 40-60F). See videos below. Ride height is set to normal, so I don't think it is the air compressor. You may notice that the whine goes away when the idle rpm falls from 1500 on the first start.
First start (8PM), driver window open, high-pitched motor whine [URL] .....
Second start (8:05), window open, normal engine noise [URL] .....
Third start (8:10), window closed, normal noise [URL] ....
So my sister bought a 2007 Camry last year since she was impressed with the reliability of the 3rd gen Camrys we've been driving for the last decade. It's been a good car for the last six months but she's on the verge of selling it because of sudden transmission issues on top of the oil consumption problems that seem to be commonplace with this generation of 2.4L.
She says that her tach sometimes shoots up to about 3200 RPM when she taps the brakes going downhill and occasionally it feels like she's hitting pools of water on the highway. She also described hesitation followed by an extremely hard shift when braking more suddenly, such as avoiding people turning in front of her.
1997 lexus ls400 204500 miles, engine light is on code P0340 (cam shaft position sensor bank 1), rough idle at start, once the car warms up it runs ok but loss of power, hesitates, if press more on gas pedal the car jerks. I have replaced both cam shaft position sensors and engine coolant temp sensor but no improvement. What could be the problem?
View 15 Replies have been lurking the forum for the last several months ever since I bought my 2008 F150. I bought it used from a dealership and have had it at their shop no less than seven times since I bought it in March, all for the same things.
The first thing I noticed shortly after buying the truck was that after the truck warmed up it would idle rough. My chief complaint by far, I took the truck in to be looked at and this is when all the real fun began. Similarly I had intermittent power steering that I asked to have looked at.
I was told the fuel filter was completely clogged. They cleaned it and assured me all was well. They also bled the power steering system because apparently someone had changed the PS pump and not bled the system afterwards. I got into the truck to leave and it was idling no better than when I dropped it off. I complained again and was told that "this is just how this truck idles" and called BS. They offered to have the throttle body cleaned for me the next day to alleviate any remnants of rough idle.
Had the throttle body cleaned the next day and took the truck home. After about an hour or two I was still thoroughly dissatisfied with the idle and called back to complain. I forgot to mention that I bought my truck from a Chevrolet dealer who had just taken it in on trade about three days before I bought it. Because I complained they offered to send the truck to a Ford dealership for further diagnosis.
The Ford dealership found fouled plugs, a cracked intake manifold and the water pump and fan clutch both had excessive play. They said those would create a rocking sensation which could be misinterpreted as a rough idle. Over $2500 the Chevy dealership paid them and I was called to come pick up the truck.
I didn't even make it out of the parking lot because the truck was whining something fierce. I couldn't believe no one QC'd the vehicle and complained again. Next morning I am called and they said that the Ford dealership had put the intake manifold gasket in wrong and it had been corrected and I could come pick up the truck.
I go pick up the truck and note that not only is the idle still not right, but now the truck is making a hissing/squealing noise when the truck hits 1800/1900 RPM's. Its strange because its not really RPM specific as it is specific to the pedal position. Accelerating or decelerating causes it to go away but its there nonetheless. Whats worse is that in highway driving at 65 MPH, the pedal is in just the wrong position and it hisses constantly. This sound never goes away...and once its been heard its impossible to unhear.
I complain again and they send the truck back to the Ford dealership. At this point I'm dealing directly with the Director of Service because mine has become a high priority case. The Service Director drives with me, confirms my problem and takes the truck himself to Ford. He drives with their shop foreman and they too confirm the problem.
A week goes by and Ford tells him its wind noise. This is complete bullarky because it happens whether I'm going 20 or 65. He calls them on it and they keep the truck another couple days. They call back and say the truck has nothing mechanically wrong with it and that they are done. Service Director goes and picks up the truck and takes it to a second Ford dealership.
Three days go by and they call and claim Eureka! We've found the problem! Clogged catalytic converter causing air flow restrictions. They replace two converters and I go to pick up the truck. It runs like garbage. Further the sound is still there. Call Chevy, leave the truck and take their loaner back home. Next morning Ford's Foreman calls and basically tells me that there's nothing else wrong with my truck and that he even reprogrammed the PCM (which is why it runs to bad all the time now I guess) to get rid of the idle problems.
Long story short here's everything thats been done:
- Cleaned a clogged fuel filter
- Replaced fouled plugs
- Replaced the intake manifold and gaskets
- Replaced the fan belt
- Replaced the fan clutch
- Replaced the water pump
- Replaced two catalytic converters
- Cleaned the throttle body
- Bled the PS system
- Reprogrammed the PCM and transmission control module
After all of this I still have a hissing sound when I accelerate (video 1:
It seems the truck runs worse once its warmed up and even worse once the AC is turned on. I'm sure he programmed the PCM wrong and thats what is causing the truck to run rough.
I went to go start my LS460... put the heat on, its fine.. when I turn the heat up on high I get this annoying high pitched sound. It has to do with the heat system because when I turn it off it goes away... I'm scared to keep the car running...
View 10 RepliesI purchased a second used 2006 GS300 from an ex colleague.
I've put about 5,000KM on the car, it currently has 195,000KM.
The car is/was mechanically great, until this week when I had some cooling issues..
First sign of problems was when I noticed steam bubbles in the expansion tank after the engine was turned off. I was actually filling up with oil as the oil warning light came on - 2nd time in 5000km but I guess that's normal for a car of this performance, size and age. I hadn't noticed overheating sings at this point but I remember fans being generally noisy (In SA it's in the height of summer so I didn't think much of it).
Temperature seems to be rock solid in the middle of the gauge, something I noticed as it gets very hot here and traffic is sometimes quite bad.
The next day I had been driving about 15 minutes on the motorway and I noticed the temperature gauge was suddenly in the red. I pulled over, noticed expansion was empty and filled. Decided to carry on another 5 mins as I had 2 small kids in the car and it's not a safe place to be (side of the motorway).
I finally found the radiator cap after I was recovered home and filled up with water (appeared to be very empty).
Next day little loss in expansion tank, low miles driven.
Next day needed to drive out a little further, about 50KM later the temp gauge started flipping hot then in the middle, hot then middle and then the engine warning light came on and the stability control light came on!
I was carrying water so filled up quite a lot of water again and the car started up perfectly and I returned home.
Since then I've been trying to investigate the problem, I will bullet point finding...
no obvious leaks
no oil in water / water in oil
no apparent general overheating (except the 2 times with water loss)
AC and heating working perfectly
no performance loss
driving lightly, up to temp no steam bubbles in tank w/ engine off
driving heavy at working temp leads to steam bubbles even when off
replaced radiator cap - no change
Radiator cap off and engine running cold, small water movement with a light sucking/bubbling - seems like air is sucked in every 10 seconds or so (very small volume of air into a tine whirlpool then air bubbles back). This I paid attention to, it settled down when engine heated up. Revving engine shoots water out of radiator - noticed when trying to get temperature up, I believe this is just the pump spinning up and normal.
As the weather is getting colder I noticing again my RPM's taking longer to drop down to 1200 or less. Upon startup the engine rev's to 2000 and drops in 2 sec quickly to around 1500 (all these are based on the crude gauge readings, not a digital tach).
I don't like high RPM cold starts in the first place and why its stays just around 1500 and lower for about 2 minutes before it lowers to around 1200RPM. I don't like engaging the transmission at those high RPM's. My other vehicles did nothing like this and the increased start RPM was down 1000 within a minute.
What sensor is having the computer run it like that and not let it drop faster. I doubt its the O2 sensor since its the same on a hot day just doesn't rev up to 2k but 1500 or so. Jabs at the gas pedal doesn't work it drop any sooner either.
Experience a grinding noise at around 1500-1800 rpm when driving?
The noise sounds like the 2nd gen valve spring start up but not as loud.
The dealer was able to replicate the noise on my car but they don't know what is causing it.
They called the regional guy to come look at it but he doesn't have a clue where or what is causing the noise.
2015 350fpsort
30k miles
Noise starts at around 10K-15k miles and dealer couldn't replicate it then but I hear it everyday.
Update with video : [URL] ....
This was a problem with the first generation GX470. It was finally resolved.
I am experiencing this in my 2011 GX460. I would have thought this was engineered out of this vehicle by now.
When I start my car now, it will idle up to about 1900 rpm, then idle down from there (even when engine is warm!). Also, I drove about 30 minutes, and a guy in a lancer decided he wanted to race me, but it seemed like I wasn't getting all the power I should! I tested this theory in an empty parking lot, where I found that my tires wouldn't brake free even at high RPM with stage1. This has never happened before, and I am a little worried at this point. My mod list is in my cig below in case your wondering, of if that makes a difference. What should I look for.
View 12 RepliesI've had my 2013 GS350 for less than a week , but one thing I've noticed (compared to Acura) is that when I first start the car, the idle seems very high. This lasts for 5-10 mins, then seems to come down and becomes much quieter. Is that by design to get the engine warmed up sooner? It seems overall the idle is a bit higher and louder than I'm used to.
View 7 RepliesWhen started very high idle after hitting gas pedal sometimes it will lower idle sometimes not,,then holding pressure on gas pedal it has very bad surging ... Any guesses what might be and possible cost fix?? I am no mechanic,will have to take it somewhere...90,000 miles on it..
View 3 RepliesUnless you manually hold throttle when cold jeep will stall. Once engine is warm all is fine. So what controls the high idle?
View 2 RepliesI just picked up a 2014 Accent GLS and I have a question about it, this being my first Hyundai. When I start the car it has what to me is an unnaturally high idle noise. For the first minute or so it idles around 2000rpms then slowly works its way down. There is also a loud almost clicking noise from the engine. It has just under 3k miles on it so it's still a new engine. Is this something I should be concerned about or is it just the tenancy of this particular vehicle?
View 3 Replies2002 Elantra idles high, 2.5 rpm, just when I start it up in the morning. The second I put brake on and put it into gear, it settles down and doesn't do it again until the next morning.
View 3 RepliesYesterday when I started my car the coolant temp was near 100 (from a previous drive several hours prior) and it was over 80 degrees outside, yet the car went into high idle mode as though it was cold outside. It does this sometimes, but not always, and if I dont let it idle down and just start driving, it'll stay in high idle for a long time (i.e. even after a couple miles of driving, if I put it in neutral it'll rev back up to high idle).
Air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor are working properly, but it doesn't seem like a normal thing to do, but its done it for years. Anything else that might cause it, or any way to stop it?
I purchased a 2000 4X4 V10 with 63,000 miles. It sat with very little movement for 12 years or so. I have been driving it for a few months and it now has 73,000 on it.
To my question. I have an high idle after start up. After the engine starts the idle goes up to 2K but comes back down to normal(1K or so). It takes a second or to 2 for the idle to drop. This seems strange to me. Is this normal? I've done some searching and found plenty on high idles but none seem to fit this condition.