Lexus ES 2007-12 :: ES350 - Passenger Front Side Window Popped Out Of Its Track
May 9, 2016
Yesterday my passenger front window popped out of it's track. Then when we tried to pop it back in and get it to go back up, it completely popped out and up about 3 inches from the frame of the door. Enough to be able to fit a had through no problem.
I am taking the car in tomorrow to have it looked at and get a quote to fix. From what I've read, it's a super pricey fix. So bummed because I just bought the car about 6 weeks ago (if that) ...
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On my 2007 Lexus ES350, the front passenger window does not stay up.
Using either the driver's switch or the passenger door switch, the window rolls up to the top, then comes back down (the other three windows work fine).
With deft manipulation of the switch, I can get it almost closed.
The only recent 'event' on the car is that I changed the eight year-old OEM battery two weeks ago; the window began acting up two days ago.
Is this programming that was lost when the battery was removed, or am I looking a regulator/pinch motor issue?
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Would be very interested in any fixes known for an annoying, recurring drivers side window/upper door frame rattle in my 2008 ES 350, occurs when going over bumps, uneven roads, or sometimes with just normal driving. Intermittent, but very common. Have had dealer address this and they replaced the "glass run" on that side, but rattle returned within a few days. Will try some silicon spray to dampen it, but seems like there is some flaw when the window is full up to door frame that produces this ticking rattle- can eliminate it by lowering the window an inch so that it does not insert into door frame.
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The A/C in my 2007 ES 350 blows about 20 degrees warmer out the drivers side than passenger side with both sides set the the same temp.
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My 1998 T&C has a problem where the front passenger window keeps falling off the track (caused by hard slamming of the door).
I've gone into the door multiple times to pop the rear-most peg back into the white plastic window track "dog", but it keeps popping out after moderate door slams. Do the black pegs that are glued to the window wear out? (I think they're metal).
I think the plastic track dog is fine, and I make sure the metal clip is fully engaged with the window peg each time I pop it back in. The only reason I can come up with for this problem is that the window peg is worn down and has lost its "edge" and thus the metal clips can no longer retain it. Sound reasonable? Probably need a new window from junkyard correct?
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I have a 2004 Jeep Cherokee and the passenger window recently popped open. Something is wrong with the power windows (I can't shut it either automatically, or manually).
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That's the window regulator, right? It works fine but sounds like a computer printer from 1987 when it goes up and down. I've owned 3 5th gen ES cars and every single one had the problem. I stopped by the dealer today to use my aftermarket warranty to replace but they said they wanted a $150 diagnostic fee.
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All my windows work, except my front passenger side window. It will go down, but not up from the driver side switch. It works from the passenger side.
I did NOT replace my battery or lose power. It started when I was driving and wanted the window half way down, but it kept going fully up or fully down. I finally got it to where I wanted it to be, but after that i could no longer bring it back all the way up. It can go all the way down, but no longer up.
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2005 Jetta, passenger side window has been falling out of it's track for the past several months. Sometimes a pothole bump is enough to drop it into the door, and if I roll it up all the way, it is unable to be rolled down again unless I squeeze both sides of the window and realign it. if I leave it even a cm less than fully up, it stays on track somehow...
I've read that this is semi-common in Jetta's of this year, and that it's due to a "window clip" that made out of some cheap plastic snapping. I've called pep boy's and NAPA auto parts near me (MA) and both said they don't carry that sort of thing and I need to go to a dealer. The dealers tell me that they won't sell the plastic piece alone, and that I must basically buy the full new module (glass, track, clips, and all the other stuff that I don't need).
Where I might be able to get only the cheap plastic piece by itself, or how I can fix the problem without spending hundreds on a entirely new system?
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how to replace the front Highlight.
how to replace my head light, on the passenger side.
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The right front headlight sometimes doesn't work on our Lexus. One time my wife was driving home after dark and it didn't work. When she got home I tried it and it worked fine. A couple days ago she was pulled over by the police because the same headlight was out. Once again when I went to try it, it was fine. What might be the problem. Loose connection or wiring?? By the way... I have been reading about the windows popping out and the clips breaking. Same thing happened at around 60,000 miles to the right side, with no tint.
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I need to replace the original driver side HID bulb on my '07 ES350. I intend on doing this myself. I found the thread that listed detailed steps which I'm sure will be very useful.
Any tips as far as getting to the actual bulb? It looks pretty cramped in that area.
I have the adaptive headlights that turn with the steering wheel. Any special steps needed for this headlight?
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I have a small oil leak on the car. I took it today to Lexus to get them do a quick check and it's coming from the back of the engine near the top on the right side. What gaskets are in that area?
The car has already had the crank seal and timing cover gaskets replaced at 31,000km.
The car has 60,000km on it now. Also, any common problems with the ES350 to do with oil leaks?
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Having problem with the front electric window sliding out of it's track? My friend's 2001 Accent has been doing this with the driver's window when going up. It gets between about 1/4 to 1/3 closed and suddenly the glass jumps slightly left out of the track on the right-hand side of the door frame.
The drivers door is on the right, it's the tallest part of the door frame it's jumping out from. If the glass is pushed right by hand it pops back into the track and the window can be closed normally.
I've had the door card off and can't see anything broken with the window regulator. With the window down it's possible to rock the glass left and right so something is obviously loose or not holding as it should be, but I can't find any loose or broken clips where the glass is attached to the white plastic thing which holds it onto the central regulator rail, it all looks intact.
I was expecting to find something broken or slack which could be causing this but I really can't.
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The driver side track on the bottom of the window has rusted out on my 1994 GMC Sierra pickup. Every place I've talked to that is supposed to handle glass repairs either doesn't fix this kind of thing or just plain doesn't want to attempt to fix it. The only advice one place would offer is to buy a new window with a good track on it, but how to get the old one out without breaking it or putting a new one in. I know they sell just the track for these windows, but I don't know how to remove the old one without breaking the glass.
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I have an '07 ES350 with the factory HID headlights. The driver side headlight will start to flicker a few minutes after being turned on and then eventually turn off. Turning the headlights switch off and then back on will turn this headlight back on but it will start to flicker again after a few minutes.
I had this problem last year with the same headlight and took it to the dealer who replaced the HID bulb but now it's back again. I've also noticed it seems to occur during the cold winter months and not so much during warmer weather.
The passenger side HID works fine with no problems. Perhaps it's a loose wiring connection but I'm not sure if this is something that can be checked without taking the entire HID assembly apart.
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I have a 2009 Lexus ES350. For some reason I got in the car today and I turn on my car and turn on my AC unit on, the driver side ac vent was blowing warm-cold air while the passenger side was blowing nice cold air. I thought it was my fuse, so I disconnect both AC fuse for a hour and reconnected back on and noting change.
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I have a ES350 and it is doing the issue of having warm air (or not cooled air) on the driver side, but has cold air on the passenger side. I looked around and saw it was a common problem. One of the solutions I read was to just refill the system with R134A. Not a problem for me, except I don't know where the low pressure port is located in my car. I was trying to find a online service repair manual on my car to locate where I need to connect to, to recharge the system.
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My 2011 ES 350 has auto locks as to when I touch the door handle, it unlocks the doors. However, the driver's door only unlocks the driver's door, whereas any other doors unlock all of the doors. Is there a way to make the driver's door handle unlock all of the doors?
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I noticed the driver side window in my car is loose. It wiggles on the track when rolled down 2-6 inches. You can also hear it in the door when the door is closed when it is rolled down all the way. It sounds like the windows on the old Trans Ams and Camros, which were always loise. It became loose between the first scheduled service and the one year service.
I mentioned it at the one year. The tech said all 4 2014 SE's had the same problem. He showed me it, too. He told me there was nothing he could do since its how Toyota made the car. And the other cars had the same problem. Since he said there was nothing he could do about it, I called Toyota to report it.
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Both front doors continuous clicking and attempting to lock (even though they are already locked) every few seconds while driving. All switches appear to be working normally. Tried disconnecting and reconnecting battery, I suspect the door lock ecu but can't find it's location. My next resort is to pull the door lock fuse so that I don' t damage the actuators.
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