Lexus ES 2007-12 :: Dash Warning Light And ABS Came On - Brakes Froze
Jan 26, 2014
Couple days ago it's -24C and I jump in car and head off to hardware store. Shop for 30 min and return and start the car. Starts ok but I notice that I have all sorts of warning lights on dash (ABS, Airbag, Parking Brake) and no power to my center console ie radio, climate stuff, fan etc. Also I can't move the shifter from Park.
Car's running so I dig out the manual to check the warning lights info and look at the fuse diagram cause maybe it's a blown fuse. Anyway 3-4 min after this, the power starts coming back to my center console, I hear the radio, then the fan then everything seems back to normal, except i still have dash warning lights and no shift action out of Park.
A few minutes later my dash warning lights start to go out, one at a time until only the ABS light is on. And my shifter now works. I wait a few minutes, make sure I have brakes, and drive home. Start it a few hours later and all is normal. And has been since.
A few days previous to that, in -27C weather my brakes froze and I had to do some serious pumping to get them to unfreeze. Maybe the two event are related.
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When I started my car this morning, I noticed a warning light I've never seen. I looked it up and it doesn't even show it anywhere. My car is driving just fine. I'm calling the dealership shortly.
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2007 ls 460 l - Warning light on dash: Check VSC system. Happens intermittently. When it is on, the cruise control does not work and the break-hold is off.
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Driving my 2008 460L and I get the brake sensor warning. Ok I've been through this before and know I have a little time left, but two days later I get a little grind noise. Then suddenly metal on metal what the hell is that noise! Turns out the passenger side rear lost a pad... it's just gone. The plate is left but the pad is gone on the inside of the rotor. The outside still had about 25% left. The other back wheel still had about 25% left on both pads.
I have 97k on the car and the rotor was turned on the last brake job so I assume I am done with this rotor and order a new one. Now the fun... I pull off the caliper and compress the cylinder on the offending pad first. The way I do this is with a big pair of channel locks I put one jaw on the pad and one on the back of the caliper and squeeze. It works a treat so I pull the offending pad and the dust boot falls to the ground in pieces. Great... now I put the channel locks on the other pad and when I squeeze, it goes in very easily with almost no resistance and the cylinder on the other side(with no boot on it) shoots out along with a bunch of fluid, probably 4-6 oz.
I decide to reassemble everything knowing I now need to bleed the brakes. All of the other wheels are normal and the brake job goes smoothly.
Frustrating part is here... how do you bleed the brakes in this car?!
methods I tried:Gravity - open the bleeder valve and let it drip, the dripping stopped after 20 minutes leaving no fluid in the line or caliper at all.
vacuum - I used the hand pump tool to try and pull fluid thru, got little spits and dribbles at best.
traditional - had my son pump the brakes, he could get a spongy pedal that bottomed out but never a firm pedal and the cylinder remained empty.
pump and suck - aggressive pumping of the pedal with the suction device on the hardline nipple. This resulted in a little fluid coming thru but no where near the amount you'd expect.
Now I have VSC, Brake Malfunction, ABS warning on the computer.
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Before i made a post about not working MIL indicator light on dash. The thing is that i spend all the water from the windshield washer and the low fluid level warning indicator light never came on dash. So the 2 issues are related.
Is there a connector or something that i can check for myself?I check the led that operates this two indicators light on dash and it's seem to be working perfect. (I change positions one for other in the same dash).
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A little over a week ago I had my battery go low and set off several brake warning lights on the dashboard. I have a very trusted mechanic and had him look it over. There were no issues whatsoever with the braking system and the lights simply occurred due to a drop in battery voltage. My question would be how to clear the lights. I have seen various people use something called a techstream and was wondering if this would be viable in my situation. If so what is the most updated version of the tech stream as well as a possible tutorial. Below for reference is a picture of the lights that were set off on the dashboard(circled). The dash isn't mine just one that I found but the four lights in question are the same.
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I seldom drive without refueling to the point that the warning lights come on, but for various reasons I had the car out with the gas needle at about the 1/8th point when:
(1) the yellow low fuel warning light on the dash lit up,
(2) the info display between the speedo and the tach informed me of "low fuel," and
(3) the NAV screen offered to find and display the nearest gas stations, which is quite handy.
I filled it up and noted the amount of gas needed, which was 14.5 gal. Since we all know that the RC fuel tank has a capacity of 17.5 gal, basic math (now probably high school math) tells us that there are about 3 gal left in the tank when the warnings alert you to a low gas situation. For most people that's about 50 miles, which is always nice to know. Also, as the needle was conspicuously above the "E," I suspect that this gas gauge may be unusually accurate, and that allowing the needle to hit the "E" mark is not a good idea.
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Last year, around Jan/Feb, our temperatures dropped down to about -30F, and I had a weird issue where my brakes literally froze. I couldn't push them at all. I let the car sit for a few minutes, and started slowly pumping the brakes, and eventually got them freed up.
A few months later, the brake line going to the rear popped. I eventually got it replaced. Then a few months later, the front brakes started scraping and squealing, and so I replaced the front pads and calipers about two weeks ago.
Now, the other day I was slowing down to make a turn, and my brakes completely went out. When they did, I heard a pop from up by the engine. I pulled over, lifted the hood, and there was brake fluid covering my hood, abs unit, and a small amount on the engine.
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2009 LS600 ... Pulled up to a traffic light and noticed the red brake warning light had come on. When I went to pull away, the car would not budge! I turned the car off and restarted and it went fine.
Now, intermittently, the red warning light comes on and off. I tried googling this topic to see if there were any references to it happening but found nothing. It tends to come on when I'm slowing down but it has come on while normal driving as well.
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I am the original owner of a 2007 LS460 with under 36K miles. Recently, my SRS (Airbag) warning light came on, but after I restarted the car it went off. However, shortly thereafter it came back on again, but it went off after I restarted the car. The last time it came on it stayed on. So I brought it into the dealer 2 weeks ago to diagnose it. They provided me with a service loaner ES350 and I'm still waiting for their decision as to what, if anything, they will do.
I discovered that on January 13, 2010, Lexus issued Service Bulletin Number 282827 in response to the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) Action Number 10033557. Here is the Summary: "Lexus supplemental restraint systems. Some model vehicles may exhibit an srs light on condition with dtc b1861 and/or b 1866. After confirming the vehicle condition matches the bulletin, it will direct you to replace the instrument panel."
It appears that my LS460 matches that bulletin. Note that this is a Service Bulletin and NOT a recall, notwithstanding the fact that it pertains to a safety system, namely, SRS - the supplemental restraint system (airbags). My Service Adviser told me that because Lexus has not received enough complaints this matter has not been escalated to the level of a recall. He did not tell me how many complaints were received.
Because my car is out of warranty, my Service Adviser requested a courtesy repair from Lexus for the following reasons: (1) I purchased 2 brand new vehicles from this dealer (LS460 and RX350); (2) both vehicles have been serviced by the book; and (3) my LS460 has under 36K miles.
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The car is 2008 Lexus IS 250.
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I have an OBD II reader (craftsman) and saw that there was a failure to start code which was probably when I tried to start the car with the weak battery. There are other readiness codes (which I will have to get from my phone if you guys think they may be relevant). I cleared the failure to start code, but the light is still illuminated.
Specs: 2010 ES 350, ~68,000 miles
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