Lexus ES 2007-12 :: Cold High Idle With Very Light Lifter Tick Sound
May 6, 2015
I have recently bought a 2007 ES350 that's runs fantastic considering I bought it with high miles from the Lexus dealer (149k). I live in warm climate area and I notice that even though it's not cold out in the mornings my car idles high (at about 2k) for only a few minutes 2-4 tops then starts to drop to normal as it warms up. It hurts me to hear it as I'm not use to this and I worry that it may cause damage to my engine due to oil not being circulated properly yet.
Most importantly, ONLY when cold, I hear a very light knocking sound, kinda like a bad lifter tick, but by the time I get to my daughters school which is about 5-6 miles away it goes away and sounds normal at that point. Had me very concerned as I just bought it less than a few weeks ago and I'm afraid something was wrong and dealer may been able to mask it at my point of purchase and now its starting to rear its ugly head.
This is my first Lexus ES350, not really sure if it's normal or not. I can tell you, when it warms up, I've jumped out of my car and have put me ear to the good and can't hear the tick. Should I be concerned? Is high idle with tick normal if it goes away when it warms up or is it a fair warning something is bad or about to go bad?
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When I start my 2013 Prius (the car just passed the 1000 mileage marker) cold, I notice a tick coming from the ICE that almost sounds like a lifter tick. I do remember reading somewhere (I've read so much Prius literature in the past couple of weeks, I could begin to guess where) that the car, when cold, fires after DTC. I noticed this twice now, once when the car had about 500 miles on it, and again this morning, though I'm sure this is occurring each time I start it cold. Is this noise typical or is this something I should bring to the dealership's attention?
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My car is making the dreaded lifter tick noise. The dealerhip is telling me that my lifters need to be replaced at a cost of $1200. I have been letting my car warm up for about 15 minutes before driving because I cannot stand that noise. I am living near Charlotte, NC and would like to know if there is a cheaper fix for my problem.
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07 Santa Fe 3.3 with 155k miles has lifter noise all the time. Much more pronounced in cold weather upon start up when the engine is cold. These miles are mostly highway and I change oil every 5-6k with Citgo synthetic blend. Is this just normal wear or could the engine be getting gummed up? I was thinking about treating the engine with some Marvel or Rislone but I really don't like putting solvents in my crankcase.
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I went to go start my LS460... put the heat on, its fine.. when I turn the heat up on high I get this annoying high pitched sound. It has to do with the heat system because when I turn it off it goes away... I'm scared to keep the car running...
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I just recently started driving... with a second hand hyundai accent. Whenever i stop at traffic light with engine on, i hear tick tick noise (probs from engine?). it seems to be coming from front of the driver seat. When I start at the beginning, I do not hear any noise and also when i am driving i do not hear any noise or lets say nothing audible like this. Its only when i stop my car and while i am waiting, i hear this tick tick noise(very clear and audible).
Is it engine metallic part making sound when cooling down? When I start my car I see symbol for low oil pressure, batter life, check engine, but as soon the engine starts these symbol disappear which I think is normal behaviour.
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I have been experiencing a slight issue with my 07 Sonata V6 lately. When I am accelerating, most commonly when already at speed around 80 to 90 km/h, I would hear this 2-3 ticks / clicks when I press lightly or moderately on the accelerator pedal. The car would accelerate fine without any further noises. When I release the pedal, the car slows down a bit, and I press on the pedal again, then the same sound re-appears.
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Weird thing yesterday, noticed a rotational tick sound coming from the right rear wheel during slow backing up with the windows down. Sounded like debris stuck between the dust shield and the rotor. Had that tinny sound. Anyway, no dealer around in the town I was at. Closest is over two hours away and not in the direction of home which was four hours away.
I was visiting friends, and decided to jack the truck up and pull the wheel off and clear whatever debris was stuck in there. Pulled the wheel and didn't see anything. Rotated the hub and could still hear the noise. I pulled the caliper next and made sure nothing was in there. There wasn't. Ok, must be in behind the disc in the parking brake shoe area and making contact with the dust shield. I pulled the caliper mount and then the rotor. Still didn't see any debris or anything foreign. What I did see was a bunch of metal filings on the inner side of the brake shoes all around the backing plate. Also a fair amount of metal filings in the drum portion of the rotor.
Rotated the hub again, and noticed the noise coming from the retaining pin cap on the rear most shoe. It was rubbing against the backside of the hub. As the hub rotated the cap spun and made noise as the spring gave way and turned. This made sense for the noise and the metal filings. The cap was still in place and the pin was not being touched yet by the back of the hub. I reassembled it all and decided the further drive home was not going cause more harm than what was already done.
Dropped off at my local dealer this morning and explained the above. The technician confirmed it as well, and ordered the a new retaining pin. Some how it got out of tolerance and caused itself to be longer than it should have. The tolerance appeared close from the front side shoe that was not rubbing.
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Just purchased a beautiful 2007 ES 350. Love it but when I start it first thing in the morning, the idles shoots to 1800 for a second then up to 2000 for about 10 seconds then slowly comes down to 600ish. Also, during this "1800 and 2000" time, the oil maintenance light comes for a few seconds. Oil was changed just prior to purchase. Car has 100k and rides immaculate- 25.5 mpg mixed.
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This is the not about the plagued 2007/2008 ES350 with the tranmission issue. This is more of a generic issue. My car is a 2009 Lexus ES350 Premium line and was bought as a CPO from a Lexus dealership in Feb 2013. Currently mileage is ~98k KM
Issue: From a cold start and driving the car coming to a complete stop, I've noticed that the shifting from higher gear (2 or 3) down to the first gear at around 15-20 km/h is very abrupt. This is a little bit noticeable during the warm summer months and more pronounced during the winter cold months.
Changes: 1) Flushed transmission fluid last summer at Lexus dealership when the car was at ~78k KM, the issue is still present in the summer but a little less obvious.
What I know about the car is that:Cold start of car, the engine's RPM runs higher until car switches from open to closed loop operation (or was it from close to open loop?) When engine runs at higher RPM, car would want to lunge forward a bit. This is normal and expected. Anyway to assist the engine warm-up faster? (Coolant change? Thermostat change?)
Once the car starts to warms-up (i.e. thermostat shows at about 1/4 of the entire gauge range). This is no longer an issue. When car is fully warmed-up the gauge is at about 1/2 marking as a reference point. So when car is starting to warm-up, is the transmission fluid warming up faster than the engine due to the shifting? Or is the fluid warming up due to the warmth from the engine bay?
Desired Final Results: We all know that Lexus are well known for a smooth and comfortable ride. And from a cold start, the shift characteristics isn't smooth. What can be done to solve this issue?
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I recently got a 600. On cold startups there are times when it makes a horrible clanking sound when it does its ~2 second low idle. The instant it goes to high idle the sound goes away. After the car has been run, I don't hear the sound again until the next cold start.
This is not normal injector click, and if it is valve click there must be a side issue causing it. Like an oil primer working intermittently or something.
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I have an '09 LS 460 AWD and there is a very unlike Lexus knocking sound at idle to maybe up to 20mph. best way I can describe is to imagine a diesel engine at idle, and dilute it substantially. subtle but clearly there. i read here in CL that could be due to valves or such, but dealer insists it is because of the intentionally designed "oversized fuel pump and fuel injector" and completely normal.
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So I was driving to work this morning and when I'm stopped at a red light my car idled from 800 rpm all the way down to 400 rpm. It literally felt like the car was going to shut off on me.
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My wife's 2010 ES 350 third brake light has an intermittent LED issue. The last 3 LEDs on the pass side flash on/off when the brake is depressed. My understanding is there may be a broken solder joint. My problem is I can't seem to get the assembly out. How the high mount assembly is mounted and how to remove it?
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I have been noticing that the idle in my car while stopped at a light will sometimes drop to 500 rpm. This makes the car feel shaky at idle. As soon as I put it into neutral or reverse the rpm jump to 750 rpm. Intermittent issue, what this could be??? Its probably happened 3-4 times in the last 6 weeks. Its annoying.
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Sometimes I'll walk my wife out to the garage in the morning when she is leaving for work. When she starts up her 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan FWD sto n go I hear a clicking noise for about 2 seconds. To me it sounds like the lifters prior to getting the oil delivery. I was wondering if that was going to eventually cause some engine damage and also if there is a problem with the oil pump or something like that. Is this a problem that I should check into or is this normal for this van. We hit a deer several months ago and the whole front end was wasted. I don't remember hearing this clicking sound when the van was newer.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata 2.4l with ~235,000kms (~147,000 miles). It has been well maintained and has been a great car. It has been developing an engine tick noise at cold startup and it seems to be very gradually getting worse over time. This noise is most evident immediately after strarup and gradually dimishes over a period of about a minute and varies in terms of how noisy it is and how long it lasts. This nopise is never heard when the engine is warm. From what I have read online, this can be caused mainly by two things:
- use of an aftermarket oil filter
- timing chain tension insufficient
Late last week I changed the oil filter out from the Purolator Classic filter that I have been using for years to a genuine Hyundai oil filter. This did not make any noticeable change in the tick noise so I do not believe that this was a contributing factor.
Over the weekend I removed the valve cover and checked the timing chain tension. It was taught as it should be. I could push it down a bit between the camshafts but it would spring right back up. I also used a videoscope to look down inside the cam tunnel and found no evidence of the timing chain contacting any metal or the oil drip line for the lower timing chain sprocket. Everything appeared to be in order.
When I started the engine to confirm no leaks around the valve cover, I used a mechanic's stethoscope to check for the noise. I was unable to isolate it as the engine tick did not occur at that time. The cause of the tick noise continues to elude me, but I have ruled out the two common causes (oil filter and timing chain tension).
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So for the past several months i have noticed something going on. There is a little noise almost like a groaning
- When i am at a Stop light and idle but still in Drive.
- When i shift to N or P it stops and goes away.
Sometimes during this i will notice a little rattle or i feel a little vibration but not much and very hard to even notice if it hadn't been for how sensitive i am never would have even noticed this at all. What this could be ?
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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1997 lexus ls400 204500 miles, engine light is on code P0340 (cam shaft position sensor bank 1), rough idle at start, once the car warms up it runs ok but loss of power, hesitates, if press more on gas pedal the car jerks. I have replaced both cam shaft position sensors and engine coolant temp sensor but no improvement. What could be the problem?
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Was driving back home and the check engine light came on, these are the codes I got:
P0345: Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Bank 2)
P0365: Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit (Bank 1)
P0390: Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit
The car drove fine, didn't feel any power loss, I heard a very very low hissing sound but I honestly don't even know if it was always there or not... I did put some gas from a different station for once, so I doubt the fuel caused this?
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