Lexus ES 2007-12 :: AC Not Blowing Cold Air - Oil Spots On Driveway
Apr 21, 2016
I noticed the A/C was not blowing cold air. I also noticed oil spots on the driveway. I jacked up the car and there is oil coming from Evap drain line. I bought a can of refrigerent with a gauge. The A/C was low. The car took the whole 18 oz and was still low. But blows cold air now. My guess is that the evaporator is leaking.
2010 ES 350 96000 miles
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I own a 2011 lariat with 500 miles. We have had several days of rain and I am getting alot of rust spots on my driveway always below and inside the right front tire. None in the rear or left front. Dealer said not to worry about it after they looke at the area. They said it is the new metal forming surface rust. There is a skid plate which seems to cover wherever the rust is starting. Should I demand that area be undercoated.
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So I've been getting this weird cracking noise from inside my car. Sounds like its coming from the rear side of the headliner. This always happens when I'm turning in or out of a driveway or over a speed bump. What it could be. Usually at low speeds and usually when I'm turning. It is very annoying!
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I picked up a 09 ls460 swb a few months back and am slowly turning it into my daily.
at an angle causes a loud popping noise from my roof. I checked the headliner to see if anything was loose but came up with nothing. This occasionally happens on sharp turns on uneven ground.
I recently lowered my car so now this is happening way too often.
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When I reverse out of my driveway, my car makes a noise. It only happens when it is in reverse and sounds like something may be rubbing against each other. It's not a high pitched squeaking noise but more so just vibrations and a light rubbing noise.
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When the car is in a situation where there is a twisting force, such as entering an inclined driveway from an angle, a loud POP is sometimes heard from the rear of the car. The intensity of the POP varies dependent on speed and angle of incline, higher speed/greater incline/decline produce a louder POP.
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I have a 2007 3.3 with 42K miles on it and the AC just started passing air that's not quite as cold as it used to be. When its at idle I would say its a mild cold and then when driving its the same mild cold but with more force. Understandably today is really the first hot, humid day of many to come so I was wondering is there any good indication that its just low freon with a leak or the compressor is going or is there any adjustment to the belt in case its just slipping? I did it drive it for quite awhile and it never improved. I would hate to drive it more and ask for a bigger problem.
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2007 passat wagon fsi auto..
Any fuse/relay of any sort for the ac system. My ac stopped blowing cold completely, didn't even fade out. So I was wondering how is best to troubleshoot and also had questions if I could recharge the system myself if that be the problem.
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My car had some minor front end damage repaired by a body shop. Since I got it back the a/c takes longer to start blowing cold air. If I drive it daily the a/c starts up normally. But if the car sits for a few days, it may take anywhere from 3-5 minutes before it blows cold. I've taken it back to the body shop who has in turn taken it to a dealer and nothing was found.
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My dodge charger 3.5L 2007 model have heater problem, The heat blows out cold air.
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When I start the car after its been sitting for a few hours it takes at least 10 minutes to the ac to start blowing cold air. If it sits for less than an hour cold air comes out right away. Went to the dealer last summer and everything was working to spec, of course...
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I have a 2004 2nd generation Toyota Harrier (Lexus model RX330). The A/C blowing hot air if temperature is not set to Max Cold. This happened no matter whether turn on the A/C with Auto or Manual setting. This case also happen no matter whether setting the A/C system to Dual mode or not, no matter whether turn on or off the air intake control button.
As long as A/C on, cold air only come out when temperature set to Max Cold, even if set to 18 degree, full hot air come out. Another thing is, say I have the A/C on, set to max cold, cold air came out from the front vent, but after I try to increase the temperature to say 18 degree, the hot air flow will change to Floor/Windshield mode.
Could it because due to the change of the battery? Is there anything need to reset after replacing the battery?
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It seems my A/C isn't blowing cold air all the time. It's as if the compressor isn't kicking on or is intermittent. It eventually does, but it takes a long time to cool the vehicle. I've had it about 6 years and it has definitely changed. Vehicle is an '04 with 106K now.
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So a recent problem on my 2012 sf.. the front vents blow hot and the rear blows cold.?
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In January I had to replace my engine in a 2007 Toyota Yaris. Last week we had the first day, since the engine replacement, that I needed to use the air. The fan blows air, it just isn't cold. Could this be anything to do with the engine replacement? Maybe they didn't hook something up properly? Do the drain the coolant to the ac when they take out the engine? I have been reading that it may simply be a fuse or needs to be charged. I realize I should have checked the a/c when I picked it up, but at -8 below, air conditioning doesn't cross your mind.
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I have a 2004 GX470. Now that the weather has dropped I have noticed that my heater is taking a long time to warm up all it does is blow cold air out of the vent. Subsequently I have started to notice that they car will start to overheat. It will never get to the point where it will hit the red but it will go up and then come back down to mid range. There doesn't seem to be anything else wrong with the car, it idles fine, starts fine etc. Could these two issues be related?
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I have a 2007 Honda Element and she'll be rolling over 200K miles later this year. Ellie runs great except for one odd little quirk and she's done it since I bought her, a year and a half ago.
As I am accelerating, if I steady my speed around two certain spots, (25ish mph and 40ish mph), my car sometimes stutters. It's almost as if she is trying to figure out what gear to be in and is bouncing between the two. Could it be something as simple as a sensor? I don't know where to start with this one.
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2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
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For the past week, my wife's 2004 GX A/C has been blowing hot air off and on. At first I thought this was due to low refrigerant but after pressure testing it appears to be full. Yesterday afternoon I was driving the car home and the A/C was blowing cool air then suddenly stopped again, I happened to look at the engine temperature gauge and noticed it creeping to "H". I shut down the air all together, pulled over and it cooled. The gauge actually stayed below the half way point the rest of the way home, until I had to stop at a light, then it slowly climbed up to the "H" again, the lowered as I drove to a cruising speed 55MPH. One home, I looked at the coolant reservoir and there was no fluid in it (not sure if this is normal) and there was no sign of smoke or fluid leaking. Could this be a thermostat issue, radiator issue, loss coolant issue???
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My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
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So last couple days over the 4th, the heat was over 95.
AC Blowing out of the vent is cold but the rear seats passenger feels warm.
Even with the blower on the higher and temp on the lowest 65 (or lowest setting).
I put my hand towards the rear seat and I feel warm air. Near the vents are cool but its like the AC can't keep up with the heat ?
2010 @ 51k ... 450h ...
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