Lexus ES 2007-12 :: ABS Speed Sensor Light Came On
Oct 31, 2015
I have 2008 ES350 & my ABS speed sensor light came on a few months ago & i just got around to getting it fixed yesterday.
I took my car to get the code checkout because on my dash the Brake, ABS, & Traction light was on all the same time & stay on. Can't remember the code but it read left rear speed sensor. So i order one off Ebay. I had my mechanic fix it yesterday & for some reason all three lights still on & i drove it for 50 miles now figuring the light would be off by now.
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Where the vehicle speed sensor is located on the 2007 es350. Reomoved battery and air filter box but just can't find it.
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2010 RX350 check engine light is on code P0500 came up it said speed sensor A...
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My mother in laws 2012 Santa Fe had a number of dash lights on (ABS, hill decent, stability control). I put my scanner on it and came up with fault code C1209 which showed up as a faulty right rear wheel speed sensor. I have replaced this module and then cleared the codes.
However, the dash lights still light up and the vehicle continues to throw the same code. I don't work on Hyundai's very often so I am at a bit of a loss.
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I noticed my 2005 GX470 started to "bottom out" when going over speed bumps or potholes. The air suspension seems to work fine raising and lowering ok and the general ride is still quite smooth. From some simple searches on the board it would seem that leaking of the air suspension could be the problem?
I did a code read and got the following error codes none of which sem related to the problem.
Code
CO200 Right front speed sensor malfunction
C1223 Malfunction in ABS control system
C1340 Open circuit in central differential lock signal
C2172 tire pressure, transmitter identification number not registered
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So I had an ABS light going on and off on my 05 250, finally got it read, and the computer said right front speed sensor. I changed it and the light stayed on all the time then. I had someone plug it in and drive it and the left front sensor was reading nice and flat on the graph, while the right front was spiking all over the place. I then assumed I got a bad sensor. I changed it one more time and now the light still won't go off. Now what?!
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Vehicle is a 1996 Aero* XLT, 4.0 engine with 155000+ miles. I'm getting the P0500 code with the OD light blinking. Tranny is not shifting properly. Did not look at the speedo or check the cruise due to worry about making it to my driveway. I have had ocasion to set the cruise to 45MPH and at times it will drop out. I don't know the lower limit on the cruise. Is this speed sensor the same as the VSS...
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I just replaced my starter and on my first ride after replacing it the X started to stumble a bit, and then would stall out at almost every stop light. It threw a CE light and I pulled the code P0720. I searched here and it seems most guys say this is a C.O.P. issue. If it is a bad C.O.P. would it stall like that?
I did have the battery disconnected but I made sure the terminals were clean and tight. Is this a coincidence or did I do something while changing the starter?
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I've got a 2006 F350 5.4L.
The ABS light came on and it was throwing a 'rear speed sensor' code. I searched around and it seemed to be a common issue that the sensor goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I bought a sensor and replaced it, but in doing so, I saw that while the sensor was indeed bad (cracked) the wire right at the connector was corroded.
I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on the dash. Is it possible that they code simply needs to be cleared? I was able to read it with my OBD2 dongle and Dash Command App, but maybe I'm not able to clear it?
Or is it more likely that the corroded wire on the connector is the issue? (it wasn't fully corroded and I cleaned it up and sealed it.). It didn't look like I could pull the wires out of the connector, so I assume I'll need a new connector. What is the part number?
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I took the car out for a little spin about 8 miles. We where about .5 of a mile from the house and there is a section where you have to stop on a little bit of a hill. I stalled the car due to the new Dm clutch then headed to the house and the car started to run like crap. I hooked up VAGCOM and had this code:
17748.P1340 camshaft position sensor-G40/ Engine speed sensor-G28: incorrect allocation(#1)
I swapped out the 2 cam position sensors and cleared the code and started the car and it still ran like crap. I just happen to have a new Cam position sensor(hall sensor) so I swapped it out in both cam positions one at a time and cleared the code and the car still runs like crap.
Is there a way to check(test) with vagcom to see if its one of the engine speed sensors?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid and recently got a "Check VSC System" warning light. A diagnostic resulted in a C0210 error code. The code is for a right rear speed sensor malfunction.
I had a local shop look at it and he replaced the hub accembly including the speed sensor. It didnt work. He and I took a ride and on his diagnostic tool, the speed reading for the right rear wheel was all over the place.
The next day he replaced it thinking that the new sensor was bad. This worked, however only for a day. Now the light had come on again with the same error.
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I've had my '09 ES 350 for a few months now. I am disappointed in the low volume of parking sensor alert. The volume is all the way up and the switch is on. Expecting it to be louder as I am or do I have a faulty "speaker"? I'll be going to the dealer next month for service and will get their opinion at that time.
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On my 10 LS460 swb am contemplating cleaning the MAF sensor.
As the battery is in its own corner, I'm not too sure how to disconnect the negative terminal so I want to know, if I clean the MAF sensor and leave the battery connected, will that have adverse affect?
I think pulling and re plugging a specific fuse will also work?
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Driving my 2008 460L and I get the brake sensor warning. Ok I've been through this before and know I have a little time left, but two days later I get a little grind noise. Then suddenly metal on metal what the hell is that noise! Turns out the passenger side rear lost a pad... it's just gone. The plate is left but the pad is gone on the inside of the rotor. The outside still had about 25% left. The other back wheel still had about 25% left on both pads.
I have 97k on the car and the rotor was turned on the last brake job so I assume I am done with this rotor and order a new one. Now the fun... I pull off the caliper and compress the cylinder on the offending pad first. The way I do this is with a big pair of channel locks I put one jaw on the pad and one on the back of the caliper and squeeze. It works a treat so I pull the offending pad and the dust boot falls to the ground in pieces. Great... now I put the channel locks on the other pad and when I squeeze, it goes in very easily with almost no resistance and the cylinder on the other side(with no boot on it) shoots out along with a bunch of fluid, probably 4-6 oz.
I decide to reassemble everything knowing I now need to bleed the brakes. All of the other wheels are normal and the brake job goes smoothly.
Frustrating part is here... how do you bleed the brakes in this car?!
methods I tried:Gravity - open the bleeder valve and let it drip, the dripping stopped after 20 minutes leaving no fluid in the line or caliper at all.
vacuum - I used the hand pump tool to try and pull fluid thru, got little spits and dribbles at best.
traditional - had my son pump the brakes, he could get a spongy pedal that bottomed out but never a firm pedal and the cylinder remained empty.
pump and suck - aggressive pumping of the pedal with the suction device on the hardline nipple. This resulted in a little fluid coming thru but no where near the amount you'd expect.
Now I have VSC, Brake Malfunction, ABS warning on the computer.
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What speed the car is in 8th gear ? My 08 LS supposedly has 8 speed A/T..
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2007 Lexus ES350 with 177k miles. Getting a P0368 (Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit High Bank 1) Error. I can't seem to find online where this sensor is located at.
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My 2007 ES-350 has 151K miles on it. Took it to a dealer until 120K and then found a really good mechanic that works on it now. It has been a great car but recently started having front end issues.
I was getting a bad vibration at 55 plus mph. That was a fiasco to get fixed. These are all the thing in order I had to replace to fix the vibration/shimmy over a 6 month period.
New Tires
Two new control arms
CV joints
Front left axle
Finally have the vibration/shimmy fixed. However, I started noticing a different problem some months back but was hard to diagnose with all the front end issues. Now that those are fixed there is a random flutter or shake that comes and goes depending on speed, if I'm going uphill or accelerating during a turn. It only happens when my foot is on the accelerator. It's often more pronounced at lower speeds. I asked them to check the struts and they said I had two that were leaking, but my mechanic thinks it might be the transmission. But I am only familiar with transmissions slipping in and out of gear. This is not the case. I have also noticed recently that it is coming more frequent and will soon be a consistent problem.
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About month ago I found used lexues es 350, 2008 in one of the dealership and bought it for my daughter . I test drive the car and found the vibration steering on speed 57_65 or .not like real lexues which is smooth. Any way I thought with alignment would be fix. But no luck.
I found another Lexues repair. They said I need to change [B]transmission and motor mount I bought it and after replace same as before.
Some other one told me could be Torque converter. This is really big problem and I can't let her drive the car.
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At my 30,000 mile service about 6 weeks ago I reported to the service manager that the suspension seemed noisy at low speed over undulating side roads. They could not duplicate the noise. Now with the cold weather, the noise has increased considerably to the extent that my wife who claims never to hear any of the noises I obsess about, asked me what is that knocking noise
I have made an appointment at my dealership first thing on Monday and they are going to ride with me and if necessary use the "chassis ears".
From everything I have read it has to be control arm bushings or the air suspension. I think the fact it has worsened considerably now the temperature has dropped eliminates the brake pad rattle possibility.
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I've got a 2007 Prius and the tire pressure sensor light came on long ago and won't reset. My tires are properly inflated. Rather than to keep speculating I figured I could use the Mini VCI to see if any codes or information come up.
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I am wondering where I might find the approximate rpms for being in 5th and 6th at 70 miles and hour. I am wondering if it is shifting into 6th as the mileage is significantly lower than the AVG shown in the display.
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