Lexus ES 2007-12 :: 2011 - Transmission Would Shift Rough In The Mornings
Jan 21, 2015
I've got a 2011 lexus es350 with a bad transmission. I purchased the car 4 months ago with 50,000 miles on it. I noticed in the carfax that the transmission fluid was changed at 25,000 miles??? I knew that wasn't normal. After having the car for 4 months i noticed the transmission would shift rough in the mornings. I took it to lexus and they added more transmission fluid to the tranny. After I got the car back it had no getup and go. And the car would stutter when revving at high rpm.
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The area where you shift transmission gears isn't lighted. Find that strange even though you can see what gear you're in on the lighted panel. Gear not the right term, but think you know what I mean.
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My 2007 es350 is already warmed up, so I know its not a temp issue.
My VSC light comes on (i know it comes on with any DTC)
My traction control light is on
My engine light is on
Now, when driving, it doesnt shift out of first gear till about 4K rpm and thats at normal acceleration (not flooring it) and shifts out of range on all other gears.
I can hear a humming/winding noise coming from the left side of the car (tray side) and it does it and I can hear it very clearly when letting off the accelerator (more noticeable at high speeds)
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So I recently purchased a 2007 LS460 with 115k on it. I've noticed that about a month ago the car started driving pretty weird. The transmission would shift hard and jerky almost through the first 3 gears, like driving a manual.
Also, when I tried to floor the car from maybe 40-50mph, the rpm would shoot up only 500 then downshift and accelerate causing a violent jerk. It feels like if I was driving at 50mph on 8th gear, when I floored it the car would feel like it downshifted to 7th gear for merely less than a second and downshifted again to 4th gear causing the car to jerk hard.
This is the car's history:
- Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery (no luck)
- Auto transmission software has been updated at the dealer
- Valve springs recall has been completed
- Head covers has been changed
- Engine module has been reprogrammed by the dealer at 70k miles
- Trans fluid has been changed at 70k miles according to lexus.com service record
So at this point I really don't know what could cause this problem anymore, maybe it could be the transmission fluid?
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I bought my 2011 sonata gls last year and it has always had a bit of an issue when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The best way to describe it would be if someone where dumping the clutch and you get that sudden, hard acceleration with a bit of rev flare and then back down the lower revs. It doesn't do it every time it shifts, but enough that it is very annoying. I've had it in the dealership twice for this issue but I get the same "We can replicate the issue" song and dance. They tell me there is no code, and no history of any code. I had the trans position sensor replaced under warranty late last year.
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I have had my 06 Passat 2.0t into the dealer twice and they have been unable to resolve a rough shift issue between 1st and 2nd. The first time they replaced the camshaft and cam follower (which makes no sense to me), the second time they said they did a software update.
I was under the impression that the software update to fix the rough shift removed the gear indicator in the MFD, but mine is still there. Each time when I get it back the transmission is much smoother for a couple days but progressively gets worse to the point I don't like driving my car (which I loved driving before this issue started).
I have read about a TSB being issued that advised a software update and the replacement of the valve body to resolve this, but I can't find the number for it.
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Is this normal on automatic transmission cars? I've read around the web and some say its normal and some say, before parking, to engage the parking brake first, THEN shift into park. Then when leaving, shift the car into reverse, then release the parking brake.
I follow this process and noticed it doesn't work all the time or make much of a difference. Do I shift into neutral first, then reverse, when leaving, before releasing the parking brake?
I've drained and refilled the ATF 2x...
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Mornings are cooler now in connecticut. I mention that at cold start my Prius C idles pretty rough.
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My 2002 Explorer LTD with 155K miles on it is in terrific shape except for a worsening rough shift into overdrive (automatic transmission) and a clunk which occurs with increasing frequency when I shift into reverse. I would love to keep the car but don't want to spend the money for a new or rebuilt transmission. There is no access for owner approach to transmission fluid - I have already looked in the manual. I would need to take the truck to a garage as I cannot do repairs myself.
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Drove to work today and all was fine. Came out at 3 and started my Elantra up, dropped it into gear and it was ROUGH. Engine ran for a few seconds before I put it in gear. The shifts up the street were hard and the downshifts were equally hard. I put the transmission in manual--same thing. After a few minutes, the shifts returned to normal. No CEL. The car has 48,700 miles on it.
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I just bought a 2005 passat wagon 4motion 1.8t to haul the dogs and future kid around in. Car has extremely low miles (23k) and is pretty much in perfect condition. Love everything about it, except...
It seems to have a bit of trouble starting on chilly mornings (not cold yet, maybe 60f?). It will start, but it fires up and then seems to get choked up to the point of almost dying sometimes, runs a little rough for a minute or so with a throaty exhaust sound and then it perks up and runs fine. I've noticed it tends to be running at a slightly higher RPM when it's running poorly in those first few minutes, and then it drops to normal.
When we bought the car, I quickly realized the temp gauge wasn't working. It turned out to be the temp sensor (seems to be a common problem) and I hoped it would solve the rough start, but it did not.
What could be causing this? We're starting to approach fall/winter, and if it's doing this now I can only imagine what it's going to do in November. I'd like to get this sorted as soon as possible, even though it's not a show stopper right this minute.
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2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.
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The car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
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Ok, I have owned my 02 Passat with the 30V 2.8L V6 since may. I got it with 115K and now its just under 129K I had the timing belt done at Jimmy's in Provo UT at 126K and up until then the engine ran great. Since the belt was replaced <along with the water pump and such> . The car has a tendency to feel like its idling rough, and when you start it up first thing on a cold morning it sounds like the valves are rattling. It does this for a brief second then goes away until the next time you start it in the cold morning. It wont do this if its warm outside, or after you start it previously that day. So far I have replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum 2 prong plugs, and replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump when it dead on me without warning about 2 months ago.
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My Toyota corolla 2011 started to shift a bit hard from first gear to second gear and sometimes it feels a bit like choking since November of last year after I started to commute about 38 miles to work. It happens when I am taking off and going straight and it doesn't happen when I am turning left or right. I have taken it to the dealer once, they reset the transmission computer, but it still felt the same and the way the other gears shift felt a bit differently.
I have seen a similar complaint about the same issue of gear shift from first to second in the NHTSA website and another forum with the same issue with a 2009 corolla with a seemingly loose motor mount.
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I have a 2008 2.7 all wheel drive santa fe automaic. It has 110 Kilometers on it. It is stop and go traffic everywhere, terrible roads, and lots of hills. I have actually only owned it for about 14k kilometers.
It has been fine since I bought it a year ago up until about 2 months ago. I was coming to a stop and as I got right to the end of my stop, the car jerked and made a clunk sound. No smell. I could tell it was when the tranny was coming down from 2nd to 1st. I tried to replicate it but got nothing. Ignored it but then it happened again. It seemed more prevalent when I was moving from 1st to second to stop over and over.
As I began to pay attention more and more, it happens much more when going up a hill or down a hill and almost always happens when I am about to make a u-turn and the wheel is turned all the way to the left. When it happens, it isn't always a big jerk. It never happens at speed, the other shifts are fine, and if I shift from reverse to drive too fast and accelerate, I get a clunk as well.
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2004 3 series BMW... When the temperature drops below around 40F, my daughter's car does not want to move in forward or reverse for the first few minutes. I watched her rev it up to 5000 RPM to get it to move the other morning. I explained how bad that is for the engine and asked her to be patient and let the car idle for a few minutes to warm up the transmission before starting out.
Two or three blocks down the street, after it has warmed a bit, the transmission engages briskly at the touch of the throttle and shifts normally with no unusual slippage.
I first noticed this after the last transmission fluid change. I suspected the wrong fluid had been put in it, and took it back to the BMW specialty shop that changed the fluid. The shop assured me that it contains the correct fluid and tried to tell me that there is nothing wrong with the transmission because the transmission computer is not storing any codes, and it worked perfectly when they drove it. Obviously 5000 RPM to move on a cold morning is not right.
Should I change the fluid again and see if it workss? I am hesitant because that full synthetic transmission fluid is expensive. Could a temperature sensor that says it is warm when the transmission is actually cold cause this problem?
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Been having another strange issue(2011 gti) but after searching it seems 50% of people say it's normal. The car starts to warm up and finally reaches dead center 190, then until the car is fully warmed up I notice the temp gauge will drop a bit sometimes go back up then down a little again until the car is fully warmed up then it's fine for the rest of the day. I think it may be normal but the dealer wants to replace the thermostat anyway which requires a ton of other parts to be moved. Looking for opinions if its just how it works and have never noticed before or is it maybe my thermostat beginning to stick??
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I own a 2013 Hyundai Sonata. Two months ago I realized that my transmission shift occasionally while I am driving, especially when the weather is cold and I park my vehicle for more than one day. Then my engine check light came, after two days it went off. I went to the dealership and ask for a multi-point inspection (without telling the inspector the transmission problem), they recommend a transmission fluid flush, then I went to an auto part shop to ask for reading engine check light code, they see P0711. After researches online, I understand this code is about transmission fluid or transmission fluid sensor defect.
My question is that, would a dirty transmission fluid cause the P0711 code, as some people stated online ?
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Any input on replacing the entire transmission valve body or just individual shift solenoids? My truck has begun experiencing a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd under light acceleration accompanied by occasional shift flare from 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 6th. I have located parts to do either job. It looks straight forward from just disconnecting the harness. I also understand there are different bands associated with the solenoids. Is there a requirement to have new transmission programming to accompany swapping these components?
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Car intermittently shifts very rough and jerky. Just took on a long vacation trip and every AM when it was cold it shifted hard them smoothed out once warmed up. Got home and now it is doing it all the time. Dealer said do the trans flush...I did it and it made no difference. Is this a common problem with this model? Mileage is 39,800...not sure I want to buy this car at lease end.
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