When hitting the brakes, the 3rd tail light turns off and on in the middle portion of the reflector. The panel is removed from the inside of the car, as the truck has metal surrounding the top area.
How do you remove the 3rd tail light to check for loose connections or to replace the bulb? 2011 ES350...
Relatively new Prius owner. I have a 2007 Touring model. I have two concerns I'm hoping some veterans can address for me.
1. I noticed last night that my left HID headlight turns off randomly (I saw it in the reflection of the car in front of me). I turned off the lights and turned them back on, and the headlight was working again for about 5 minutes before turning off again. This consistently happens so I'm pretty much driving with only one headlight on. The right headlight isn't having this problem, luckily.
Looks like Toyota had a settlement over the issue. I would post a link but since I'm a new users it's not allowing it.
Recently I noticed that my passenger and drivers side tail lights do not get brighter when I hit the brake. However, the center LED lights still are functioning properly. What might be wrong and how to fix it? I thought it might be the break light switch based on what I have read, but I would imagine that the center LED lights would be messed up too if that was the problem.
View 2 RepliesI just recently traded in my '07 SWB for an '11 LWB (75k miles) and am loving the engine (sans hesitation) and ride etc. etc.
The only thing that's been really bugging me is that during cornering, the body seems to twist and "wind up", and as it does this, something(s) under the body moves and creaks/pops noisily. Then as I straighten the car out or turn the opposite direction, whatever had moved settles back out and I get more creaking/popping.
I thought it might be back door seals or door latch (based on that being a typical german car issue/solution) so I treated the seals and lubricated the latches, but the sounds didn't change at all. I would say, as a guess (tracking down noises can be super deceiving), the sounds seem to be coming from below the floor pan. I also wouldn't say the issue changes with outdoor temperature.
We’ve been running into a problem with the DRCC on our 2011 Model 5. In simple terms, the DRCC freezes locking onto car in front and activating the beeper/hitting the breaks even when no vehicle is ahead! So far, this has happened once to my wife (when she was making a 90 mile trip)
In all cases this has occurred as the car was passing a semi, when the front of the car was even with the semi drivers door. In one case, there was no car in front, just acted like there was one.
Whenever this occurs, the car continues to brake and the only immediate solution is to turn off the Radar. Also when we re-engage the DRCC, the unit is still frozen – braking for a non existent vehicle.
No problems turning the DRCC off and using the ordinary cruse. What seemed to “clear” the condition was pulling off the Interstate and turning off the car. I also noted that (after it had froze again) that when the ambient temperature had dropped below 90 degrees that the DRCC cleared. The first time my wife ran into this was hot too.
In summary, this has happened only when:
· Passing a semi
· Temperature is high (above 90).
I don’t believe that it is an alignment issue, as I’ve been amazed at how narrow the radar pattern seems to be (and very nicely tracks the steering).
My daughter, after turning 16, has claimed our '07 with 170K as her own. Both my wife and daughter have been complaining that the car shudders when hitting the brakes.
For background, last fall, they heard a loud scraping noise coming from the front wheels, I decided that after 155K, it was time for a brake job. I pulled off the wheels and proceeded to swap the pads and rotors to discover that the scraping noise was coming from a rock caught between the hub and dust shield. Didn't really think about it prior to doing this, but this is a different beast when it comes to brakes and the pads still had plenty of life left on them. The piston on the right caliper refused to go back in to allow space for the new pads, so that needed to be replaced. Quite the frustrating job.
The brakes had been fine up until a month ago or so. I took it out for a test drive, but only detected a "shudder" when braking through about 20 mph. I didn't detect any pull in the brakes and the stopping power seems fine. They seem to experience something different than I do.
I plan on pulling the wheels off and having a closer look when our schedules allow. Is there anything in specific I should look for? The mechanical brakes kick in under 10 mph, correct? If the shuddering is happening above this speed, what in the regen braking system could cause this?
AFS Flashing and there is a clunk in the right rear on turns and it bottoms out over speed bumps . According to service manual and internet search, this combo may be a problem with the rear height control sensor sub assembly or rear No. 2 suspension arm or other suspension issue. AFS flashes because the car height changes affecting the headlight adjustment leading to AFS flash.
Dealer says "Yes sensor is mounted to the control arm and if it's broken in half, it would clunk and cause afs light to flash."
In the process of purchasing 2008 600hl. Wondering if any of the 600 owners can tell me if you experience a light vibration in U-turns, mainly coming from the back? I just called the servicing dealer and the SA told me that he felt the same thing when he moved a 600 for a customer making sharp turns, explaining that this is normal from the electric motors. Is this true???
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 Chevy k1500 Silverado Z71, I am having problems with my tail lights where when my headlights are on and I hit the breaks the driver side tail light completely turns off, if I use the left blinker it blinks very fast up till I hit the breaks. When my headlights are off they still don't work properly but legal enough, the left blinker blinks in between fast and slow and when I use the brakes the left side works but very dim, the wiring is all original never tampered with, all I did was put aftermarket tail light covers on it which shouldn't affect anything. The problem usually comes and goes but this last time it lasted for 2 months and now everything works perfect, the problem will be back and I'm afraid I'll run out of luck and a cop will finally notice it.
View 5 RepliesWe have a 2013 Sonata. For a while now we have been hearing a thump-thump-thump from the back of the car. The thumping starts as soon as the car moves and it appears to come from the driver side.
We get the thumping in our parking lot, on local roads, on the highway - everywhere. The frequency of the thumping speeds up and slows down in lock step with road speed. The thumping doesn't get appreciably louder when we go around turns or when we apply the brakes. We feel no vibration through the brake pedal, or through the steering wheel, or through the seats or any other part of the car.
Six months ago we left the car with the dealer after taking the service advisor for a ride. He heard the noise but when examining the car they could not locate the source of it. They said the wheel bearings looked good, the tires looked good, the brake rotors looked good.
After that we replaced the old tires with new ones and had them installed and had the wheels and tires balanced at a shop that is known for doing this well. (They take care of a lot of SCCA weekend racers.) After all of that the thumping was still there, same as before.
Now the thumping is getting worse. We are planning to take the car back to the dealer to have them go over it again and start replacing parts to see if we can locate the source of the noise that way.
Couple days ago it's -24C and I jump in car and head off to hardware store. Shop for 30 min and return and start the car. Starts ok but I notice that I have all sorts of warning lights on dash (ABS, Airbag, Parking Brake) and no power to my center console ie radio, climate stuff, fan etc. Also I can't move the shifter from Park.
Car's running so I dig out the manual to check the warning lights info and look at the fuse diagram cause maybe it's a blown fuse. Anyway 3-4 min after this, the power starts coming back to my center console, I hear the radio, then the fan then everything seems back to normal, except i still have dash warning lights and no shift action out of Park.
A few minutes later my dash warning lights start to go out, one at a time until only the ABS light is on. And my shifter now works. I wait a few minutes, make sure I have brakes, and drive home. Start it a few hours later and all is normal. And has been since.
A few days previous to that, in -27C weather my brakes froze and I had to do some serious pumping to get them to unfreeze. Maybe the two event are related.
I have had this problem since two weeks now. Basically I have bad tail light indicator on the dash and bad brakes indicator on the dash some times and some times not. Both come on at the same and turn off at the same time. But when the dash is lit, the car wont crank. Couple of tries later (15-20mins) later the warnings are gone and car starts.
This happens every time only in two gear positions i.e Par k and Neutral. After the said time gap, the two warnings start blinking. That's when the engine will crank. And after couple of tries, the engine comes to life. I have checked all the fuses, checked the battery, alternator, tail lights for lose wires But couldn't find anything solid.
I'm driving a 2010 Hyundai Sonata and just recently one of my brake lights has been acting up. Everything works perfectly fine as long as the head lights are off; however with the head lights on, when I depress the brake pedal my driver's side tail/brake light goes out. The center brake light and passenger side brake light work just fine regardless of the head lights being on or off. With the headlights off, all the brake lights operate normally when the pedal is depressed.
View 6 RepliesJust bought my 5th Camry... a 2011 LE model.
Hate the LED tails, but I can live with them if I must.
Very disappointed the tails have red turn signals.
how to modify for yellow turn signals?
Having issues with the rear tail lights will not shut off when you turn off the car? This all happened at the same time but I'm not sure what it is???
1. The traction control dash light comes on and stays on.
2. The cruise control stopped working.
3. The rear tail lights won't shut off even when the car is off.
I have a 2011 Jetta TDI and the drivers side tail light on the trunk is out. I opened the trunk and popped the cover off the rear of the tail light and it seems the connector is loose. I tried for about 10 or so minutes to get it back into place but I couldn't. I don't know if the connector is broken or if my hands are just too large to fit into the area. I plan on taking it back to the dealership to get them to fix it. I just picked up the car. Is this a sign of wiring issues or just someone at the factory jamming a connector into a hole so they could move on a couple of seconds faster?
View 7 RepliesI've been having trouble with the stock radio in my 2011 SF. It randomly turns off, then turns back on by itself, 5 to 10 minutes later. It comes back on in whatever mode/ station it was on when it turned off. I've pressed every button, tried to insert a cd, and tried the steering wheel buttons. The USB power goes off too.
The station memories stay, so I don't think it's a power issue, at least at the fuse level. The battery is fairly new. I've cleaned the fuse and both ends of both ground wires in the engine bay. When I cleaned the fuse, I lost station memories, is there two fuses for the radio, perhaps? Or does the memory power and radio power split after the fuse box?
have a GPS and don't use Sirius/XM anymore. I've read part of the radio/ nav system sticky, wow, is it long.
I have a 2007 ES 350, the driver's door doesn't seem to be a snug as it ought to be. Hitting even small bumps seems to cause a jarring of the door. How to snug it up?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2009 460 awd with adjustable suspension and when making a right turn the front left side makes a noise. I have had the dealer look at it 5 times or more but each time I am told that there are no problems. Now that the weather is getting colder it is becoming more pronounced.
View 7 RepliesHow do I fix a brake light that is out on a 2006 sc in the tail light on the passenger side?
Can these be repaired or do I have to change the entire light?
The ABS and ESC lights (amber) in my 06 Sonata are coming on intermittently.....
The lights just come on while driving....the ESC switch doesnt have any effect.....the brakes seem to work well....then, after several start cycles the lights will go out and all will be well again....then after a few start cycles and while driving they come on again.
I used the code tester from autozone but no codes are stored...they told me that brake codes aren't always accessible with their hand held unit though....
Also, I have noticed that when turning left or right I get a squeaking from the front brakes now and then,...it was doing this before the ABS/ESC light issue though...