My wife's 2010 ES 350 third brake light has an intermittent LED issue. The last 3 LEDs on the pass side flash on/off when the brake is depressed. My understanding is there may be a broken solder joint. My problem is I can't seem to get the assembly out. How the high mount assembly is mounted and how to remove it?
View 2 Replies2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
My high mount break light works sporadically. When I break, sometimes you can see it as bright as it can be, other times it is dim, and then sometimes no light comes on. The dealership could not even figure out how to get to the led unit.
View 8 RepliesLexus has diagnosed a ground fault with an intermittent connection.... I am not sure how to proceed ... Could it be a light bulb connection... or does it even have these? Can the part be serviced in place... or must I replace the whole assembly?
View 4 RepliesMy wife called and said her ES350 couldn't start. I told her to wait 5 minutes and tried again. It still wouldn't start.
So I went there and tried to start the car. My first try did not work either. I noticed that the brake pedal couldn't be pressed down. It was quite stiff. So I pressed hard on the brake pedal and tried again. This time it started. It has been working fine since then.
Can this be changed easily by a non-dealer? The local Autozone doesn't list any replacement bulbs or assemblies, and I can't see a simple way of accessing the light assembly from the trunk.
View 1 RepliesSomeone mentioned to me this week that my high mount brake light was not working. No big deal, just a burned out bulb I assumed. Well, I replaced the bulbs (two bulbs) and it still does not work. The sockets look fine, no corrosion. The wiring that I can see looks good. I used a volt meter & found I'm getting no juice at the socket . . ? Is there an in line fuse or something else simple I should check. I'm thinking this should be an easy fix & am frustrated I can't figure it out. By the way, my lower brake lights are working fine.
View 3 RepliesTrying to replace the burnt bulbs. Did the obvious: removed the two screws but in no way could I take the red lens off. I pried hard almost broke it but it's not coming off. It feels like some other mechanism holding it down. It is the one on top of the lift gate. The inside is just a hole with wires going through. What's the trick?
View 12 RepliesI have an unusual issue with the drivers side headlight. I recently got a used 2008 ES350 and the drivers side headlight aims high and dazzles oncoming traffic. I have adjusted the two screw adjusters their full range but cannot get the light to aim horizontally. The lights are HID AFS. The car was in a previous accident and the front drivers side wing was repaired.
I have a feeling the body shop did not do a great job (the paintwork is not great) and the light may not be mounted at the correct angle. The AFS works fine for the LH headlight but I don't see much movement of the RH light? Perhaps they installed a non AFS unit during the repair. How to check the alignment of the headlight assembly and body work, and how to correct the headlight problem if the screw adjusters don't move the beam.
Talked to Rho-plate, they state they have no plans on making one...alternatives? My car also has Park Assist too, does count me out on the Tow Hook method?
View 2 RepliesJust bought an 02' camry and the high mount brake light on the spoiler is half burnt out. Tried removing what I'm guessing is an LED assembly but the screws are stuck and the angle is really awkward. Am I going to have to replace the whole LED bar?
View 2 RepliesRecently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
View 13 RepliesThis is the not about the plagued 2007/2008 ES350 with the tranmission issue. This is more of a generic issue. My car is a 2009 Lexus ES350 Premium line and was bought as a CPO from a Lexus dealership in Feb 2013. Currently mileage is ~98k KM
Issue: From a cold start and driving the car coming to a complete stop, I've noticed that the shifting from higher gear (2 or 3) down to the first gear at around 15-20 km/h is very abrupt. This is a little bit noticeable during the warm summer months and more pronounced during the winter cold months.
Changes: 1) Flushed transmission fluid last summer at Lexus dealership when the car was at ~78k KM, the issue is still present in the summer but a little less obvious.
What I know about the car is that:Cold start of car, the engine's RPM runs higher until car switches from open to closed loop operation (or was it from close to open loop?) When engine runs at higher RPM, car would want to lunge forward a bit. This is normal and expected. Anyway to assist the engine warm-up faster? (Coolant change? Thermostat change?)
Once the car starts to warms-up (i.e. thermostat shows at about 1/4 of the entire gauge range). This is no longer an issue. When car is fully warmed-up the gauge is at about 1/2 marking as a reference point. So when car is starting to warm-up, is the transmission fluid warming up faster than the engine due to the shifting? Or is the fluid warming up due to the warmth from the engine bay?
Desired Final Results: We all know that Lexus are well known for a smooth and comfortable ride. And from a cold start, the shift characteristics isn't smooth. What can be done to solve this issue?
2010 ES350... Was detailing interior of car, and didn't realize headlights were on. Eventually, battery drained and car would not start. Had OEM, original battery installed at the time. No dashboard lights lit prior to this.
From what I recall, shortly after replacing the battery and getting vehicle started, my slip indicator was solidly lit on dashboard. No other lights are illuminated, and vehicle appears to behave the same.
Fast forward to today, my OBD II scanner (Innova) does not pick up any current DTC's. There are readiness codes stored, but I understand that these are merely emmission related. However, there are historical codes stored which I am concerned may be possibly contributing to the dashboard light. The codes are P1604 and B2799. These appear to be related to the immobilizer system on my ES. I've tried to clear these codes, but they won't go away, so I suspect something is still tripping this. Keys are fine, just changed the FOB battery out a couple of times. I may try my second set of keys to see if it fixes this mess.
Since my OBD scanner doesn't support ABS, I'd like to see if AutoZone or something of the like can detect if there are any codes being thrown by the ABS system. Not sure if this is what is tripping the SLIP light.
I finally traded in my car and picked up a black 2010 ES 350, CPO, with 33k miles. However, i feel a vibration inside the vehicle while the car is idling (even when it is fully warmed up) and i was wondering if this is normal on these models? I have owned a is250, and ls460 and I didn't really notice anything like it. It almost feels like my ex's toyota camry when idling (not as loud of course). Is there a recall that fixes it? or is this normal with FWD vehicles?
View 11 RepliesQuestion about my mom's 2010 ES350.
This morning, it wouldn't start. She tried it a second time, and it started. But...
Upon every subsequent start-up, the LCD in the gauges displays "CHECK COMPLETED".
Car runs and drives fine, otherwise. The security light does go off like it should.
I have a blown LED on a 2007 LS460. Bought a set of the Stop Lamp and started to embark on my little DIY today.
Both side covers are held on by a little plastic hook underneath near the row of LED bulbs. Hence, you will have to press down firmly to unhook and slide the cover towards you and lift it up to remove. (watch my youtube link below).
The center piece is held on by 2 screws (nearer to the row of LEDs) and 2 plastic clips (nearer to the C-pillars). Remove the 2 thumb screws and the plastic clips (twist or turn them 90 degrees and they should come off easily). At this point, remember to unhook the plastic connector.
Replace the center Stop Lamp piece and install everything in reverse order.
Check VSC and engine light on dashboard... I am confused what problem can be happened....
My car ES350 2008 ... NEW about 2000 miles ...
I bought a used 2007 ES 350 on July 2012. This morning going to work, about 2 miles from my house my CHECK VSC light and TRACTION light turned ON, just get on freeway and the CHECK VSC light started FLASHING and when this occurred, the car was unable to accelerate, the car could only go about 40 mph and then slowly going up to about 60mph. I was scared and took the next exit turn around and going home. I'm at 41000 miles and out of warranty.
View 9 RepliesI have ES350, year 2007, Ultra Premium package, I love this car .I am thinking if its possible to change the Halogen daytime running light bulb with an LED bulb?
As a longtime Camry owner I am used to with replacing light bulbs by myself. is it possible to do this one by myself?Current configuration of bulb as per manual: Halogen Bulb, H7, W55.
I have a 2009 lexus es 350. Its my baby since new. I have around 75,000 miles on it. Recently when I start the vehicle I noticed a heavier than usual exhaust smell, with some very very light white exhaust. The car seems to drive fine in every way.
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