Lexus ES 2007-12 :: 1998 - Electrical Malfunction / Won't Start
May 25, 2014
My wife loves this car except when it won't start, and unfortunately that's happened from time to time recently. The first time was when we were out of town, when we got home, it wouldn't start. No big deal. But since then, it's developed the habit of draining the battery over very short times. We put in an after-market stereo a couple years ago, I thought that must be the problem. Pulled the fuse so it wouldn't play. Overnight the battery ran down. The battery is almost new. I took it back to the seller of the battery and had it checked. It's fine. My nephew told me that when he had a 1998 ES300, it had a similar problem. Obviously some type of battery drain, but I'm at a loss. The Lexus dealer cannot diagnose the problem.
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My F150 4X4 would not start a few days ago, after only having turned it off a few minutes prior. The gauges would sweep wildly and get stuck at various positions. I checked the fuses and they were fine, then unplugged the battery for a bit and it started back up. Occasionally it won't start and i'll have to disconnect the battery again to get it to start.
I'm still having some strange electrical issues though. The radio no longer turns on unless the ignition is turned to AUX. My back up alarm for going in reverse doesn't come on anymore. The gauges take at least 10 seconds to wake up after starting the truck. The dashboard blinker indicators will randomly stop blinking or making any noise. I was thinking it could be the computer, but could it be something else?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna LE. Sometimes after starting the car the ABS and tire pressure lights come on and I am not able to shift the car out of park. The dealer ordered a brake switch and in the meantime I would just push the override button on the gear shift to move it out of park. BUT, when I do that I loose most of the power (radio, clock, blinkers, power locks/windows/doors, wipers...but not power steering). The brake switch came in. They replaced that, told me the battery (which was installed in July 2010) was very dead and replaced that too. I drove home happy. Next day, ABS and tire pressure lights are on, car won't shift out of park. I manually override it, loose power in said areas and go straight back to the dealer. They said the power was so silly (my word, not theirs) in the car they couldn't plug it into their computer to do the systems check, so they traced wires by hand, took all the wires out of the "block" and reconnected them. Once everything was back together, car works fine. They said no wires were loose and they don't know what was wrong or why it's suddenly fixed.
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Car has been having a myriad of problems that seem to be related to the electrical system. First warning sign that something was wrong was the car wouldn't start up immediately after turning the car off. We had to wait between 5 and 20 minutes before the car would start up again. It was also revving up briefly at idle. Brought it into the mechanic, they replaced the power steering pump. We told them about the issues with turning the car on, they said they didn't see anything.
Car worked fine for a couple of weeks, then when we were driving a longer distance (more than an hour drive) the tire pressure alert light went on. We were close to our destination, so we drove and parked, and the tire pressure was a little low. We were asked to move the car to a different spot in this lot, and it wouldn't turn on. When we came back to the car (this was after flying out of down for four days) the car started up fine, and we filled the tires with air.
Next time we went on a longer drive, the tire pressure alert light went on again, but we checked the pressure and the tires were fine. This light turning on issue has continued, without seeming to be related to the tires actually losing pressure at all.
A couple of other problems that may be related. One, the car completely stalled out once at an intersection, and the battery warning light went on. I turned the car off, waited 60 seconds, then turned it on again and drove home just fine. Also, the right turn signal is flashing at double speed on the dashboard, but there aren't any issues with the headlights or taillights themselves that would cause the light to flash at double speed. The left turn signal and the light on the dash flash normally.
I'm worried that this may be indicative of a larger problem in the electrical system, and since the mechanic told us the first time that they didn't see any issues I wanted to get a second opinion before I brought the car in again. I also don't really have a lot of money to spend, so I need to know if this is a critical issue or just something I can ignore until I get a new car early next year.
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I have a 2002 F-250 with a 7.3.
I have been having a no crank, no start issue off and on for a while. batteries are new, cables are new, connections are clean, and starter has been rebuilt and checked. I bought a "starter relay" which i thought was the top solenoid in this picture. I also replaced the lower solenoid in the picture. The bottom solenoid was replaced with what im sure is the correct replacement. The upper I think is wrong. It started but then shut down and will not restart. The upper solenoid also was very hot after it shut down.
Long story short what is the upper solenoid for? Im assuming its not the starter solenoid. If so where is the Starter solenoid on a 2002 7.3?
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I own a 1997 ford f150 V6 engine and I have problems with the electrics. I turn the key on and the engine starts up runs great but I then look at the gauges and not one moves at all the. No fuel when i have just filled up,no tep,no oil,no battery all read nil. I went a drive and the speedo reads 0 it does not move but the truck drives great. Could it be a fuse, does a fuse control the gauges, which one it could be. I have lifted the hood and under the hood on the drivers side there is a box with small and larger fuses.There is one that is very small and the colour is white that's blown. Would you no what that fuse is for.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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I have a 2000 7.3 f450 having some electrical issues. When you turn the key on sometimes the dash will start ticking and left side light flashing...engine will turn over but it won't start. The ticking is coming from under the hood relay 32 (you can hear and feel it clicking). Book says its injector driver module power relay. A lot of the times it will start fine other times it will be running and just die (prob because of this issue) happened once when I was driving.
What to check here already replaced the relay still have the problem.
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I have a 1998 Ford F-150. It has an issue with starting sometimes. The truck won't start with a fully charged battery but when I hook it up to a charger, the truck starts normally. It was going to get the wheels aligned today and when the mechanic went to drive it off the ramp, it wouldn't start. I told him to put a charger on the battery and it started right up. Without the charger it just cranked over and wouldn't start. It doesn't do this every time I go to start it only occasionally. The mechanic had no idea what the problem was and has never heard of this kind of situation. I'm assuming it is an electrical problem but I'm not an expert with engines. The battery was fully charged at the shop and the battery is a year old.
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I have the VSC light, ABS Light, BRAKE light all on.
Check VSC System, Check ABS System, Check Brake System, Brake Malfunction.
I went to start the car this morning, battery was dead. Jump Started, and all these messages came up.
I have disconnected the battery for a good 2 hours, still no luck. I charged the battery. So its starts right up now.
The Brake Pedal is really HARD. When you brake, the car leans to the front Right Side.
When I reconnected the battery, The Brake Pedal is soft, but is instantly hard when Started.
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I checked the air in the tires on my 2008 350 ES with an outside temperature of around 40 degrees. Pressure gage read 25 lbs. I decided to add pressure to bring up to 30 lbs. Subsequently while driving, the Trac & VCS System malfunction warning symbol came on (the picture of a car with wavy lines behind the tires). Of course, the warning symbol of a red triangle with an exclamation symbol in the middle as well as a check engine light also came on.
I figured that the problem was that the combination of cold weather (for Houston) and the added air pressure resulted in the system interpretation of an increased skid or lack of control situation. So I let some air out to where the pressure in each tire is 27 lbs. Then I drove it 5 miles or so at speeds up to 50 mph. Made no difference. Warning symbols still there.
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I have a 2007 ES350, Navigation, climate control, touch screen all works, radio powers on and functions as if it was working. back about 6 months ago the sound audio began having a mind of its own and working randomly, very annoying to say the least. Well, now it quit all together, no sound for a couple months now.
I am knowledgeable in the area of car audio, electronics, engines etc... I think this car has a factory OEM amplifier, although I have not located it in the car yet. I know the amp is getting power because I can hear a turn on thump when I power the head unit on and off.
So I think there is a cable/connector between the head unit and the amp that was loose causing the erratic behavior, and now the bad connection = no connection as if someone yanked the RCA jacks on an aftermarket system.
FYI, I already pulled the head unit from the dash and looked for any loose connections, found none, put the thing back together and am getting really frustrated with no sound.
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Lexus LS460
Issues:
1. Just put her in for the SECOND brake actuator replacement at 45k miles. First failed at 22k miles, so they DO have that consistency thing nailed.
2. Also had to replace BOTH B-pillar trim pieces which have soft facing material that cannot withstand the constant barrage of seat belt buckles banging into them during retraction. They start by showing marks, then dents, and finally the material gives up altogether and begins to shred.
3. Brake shudder due to "rotor warpage." I believe this problem is due to production engineering (or lack thereof) during final assembly. Hub runout at maximum combines with rotor runout at maximum, even though both are within tolerance, to produce a stackup tolerance outside the spec which results in warpage given enough thermal cycles. The reason the problem occurs only rarely is due to hub and rotor tolerance variations AND the various stackup combinations arbitrarily selected during final assembly of rotors to hubs.
4. The recirculation-biased AC causes mold (and odor) buildup in the AC system. Since this "choice" was made by Toyota to gain U.S. CAFE credits, the fault lies more with EPA and DOT than with TMC. Still, the unsuspecting Lexus customer is the one who suffers.
I'll buy an extended factory warranty on the car, run it for another year (20k), then sell it before the chickens come home to roost.
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Started up my car the other night and my engine light came on, trac light came on... VSC msg came on the dash, engine was rough idling. I drove it home after checking my fluids... i took the OBD scanner to see whats going on, hoping i just need a battery change. Codes popped up P0354, P0300-0306. basically ignition coil malfunction, and my cylinders were misfiring.
I am at 62k miles and warranty crapped out at 50k. the problem was obviously electric, since all 6 were misfiring, otherwise it would only be a few. I haven't had any engine work, I just recently did a proper oil change at home(royal purple 5W30), which I've done since I've had the car in 07.. I took the car to the dealership for the CPU reprogramming for the recall in April.
About to take the car back to get it checked up on and fixed.. I am lowered on coilovers and 20" rims, which gives it a rough ride, but i dont think it would cause this problem. i dont track/race the car and i drive it relatively civilized. Lowered since 30k miles and 20"rims since 50k miles.
What could've gone wrong? timing off etc... i pulled my engine cover to check the connection points for the coils, all seems fine, no corrosion on the grounding points. i was only able to check the front 3 coils, the other 3 were hidden in the back and i wasnt able to look at them. i assume they should be fine as well..
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I have a 2007 GS350, one of my headlights will come on but shuts off after a short period. 1-+5 minutes. I can immediatly shut my lights off and then turn them back on and the light comes on.Is this the Ballast? Is it the Headlight? Where can i get new headlights that wont break the bank if thats what needs to be changed?
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I've been having an intermittent problem starting our 2007 Passat 2.0T. Sometimes when I insert the key fob into its slot the car starts then stalls immediately. The steering wheel icon is displayed and the MFD says "Steering column lock malfunction". The car eventually starts after several attempts but I'm wondering what's causing the problem
My wife are both guilty of two things that I've read in the manual and I'm thinking that may have contributed or is causing the problem. We both insert the key and push it in to start the car in one motion. The book says to do it in three motions. We also do not depress the brake pedal when starting the car.
Needless to say we are not going to that anymore. If I may have done damage to the steering column and its associated parts?
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i have been searching forums and cant find nothing with this exact problem. i have been having a problem with my ML stereo system, i have a 2007 Lexus Ls460L, like a week ago my driver side door speaker was going in and out then it just cut out completely, 3 days later all my door speakers and sub went out but all my highs are still on playing normal i see post saying the amps go bad but everyone says a chirping noise or no sound but i have sound but only in for my highs i have no bass at all.
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I have a 2007 ES350 with 90k miles. Purchased in August. I had ignition coil go out and decided to change them all and the spark plugs. When changing cylinder 5's coil and plug, I tried to push the wiring harness out of the way to remove the coil. Result, I moved the wiring harness too far and disconnected the 3 wires (black, yellow and red) that were connected to the cam position sensor connector. (I should've just removed the sensor SMH) I disassembled the connector, got it down the internal pins, soldered the pins to the wires, placed the pins back in the connector and reassembled it with the wires in the order that they appeared to originally be.
Plugged it back in and put everything back in place. Started the car and code P0352 was cleared but replaced with code P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B - Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction. I'm thinking, either I put that pins back in the wrong order or one of the wires isn't properly soldered in. Either way, I ordered another connector and it should be here tomorrow. I need Either a wiring diagram or a picture of the camshaft position sensor closest to cylinder 5 connected with the wires in the proper order .
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I have a 2007 santa fe. In the last year or so, when you turn the key to start the car - you get nothing... Like it has no electrical power, no sound, etc. However, it has never lasted more than 1min to an hour it varies. There is nothing you can do about it, just try it a couple of times, come back and try it again. It has never not started eventually. About 95% of the time, it starts within 10 min after you start trying it. However every now and again it is 10 min to an hour or more. Sometimes it goes weeks without doing it (starts the first time) and then you get a string of everyday for weeks.
The dealer can't figure out whats wrong, they need it to stop working completely. I am an engineer and have not been able to find any correlation (cold weather vs hot), not driving it for a while, turning off ac, lights, radio, using a different key. Also, during this time the battery has been periodically tested and has tested out fine.
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It was a water flood it was running and driving perfect car sat at the auction yard for 3 months , went to go pick up and the car won't start but it has power, the car steering wheel is locked , displays shows brake malfunction.
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I have a 2007 LS460 L. It has recently started losing electrical power in fraction of a second intervals. The map data sometimes works or displays an error on the screen. The radio has been functioning but now is also starting to flash off intermittently. Now when this happens it feels like the engine dies and ALL electrical is off and then power resumes. This affects steering, engine power and brakes. My wife drives this car and loved it until now.
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