LeSabre :: Traction Control, ABS Light Came On - Replaced Front Wheel Bearing
Jun 8, 2016
I have a 2003 Buick Lesabre Custom, 146K miles on it
1st problem was that the passenger front wheel bearing went bad, I replaced it with a new bearing from Napa(cheaper one) drove it 1 day everything seemed fine, next day it was raining, and Traction control and abs light came on and continues to do so almost everytime I run the car. My Mechanic friend said this was a defective wheel sensor and that i should get a new one, I do not know if I should get the better one, every time I've ever changed the wheel hubs I have had this problem except when I use the more expensive hubs. Maybe I answered my own question on this one!!
Today when my wife was driving the car, the Service engine Soon light lit and it started bucking and shuddering going uphill, and it threw a code that said that TCC was stuck etc. I had been running the failing hub for a few weeks prior to this with no problems but when I changed this the other day, I started having problems.
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I have a 2004 Jetta GLS with 125K miles and standard transmission. Just had the clutch completely replaced. After I picked the car up, I ran some errands, turning the car off and on a few times. Then the ABS/traction control light came on. I tested the brakes, which seem fine, and accelerated on some ice, with no flashing light like usual, so that's a concern. Came home and used the VAG software - no fault codes came up. Went back to mechanic, who said the clutch and this new issue are not related, but he checked my wiring, checked for fault codes, and took it for a test drive. Said he did make the flashing light come on. Turned the warning light off. It came back the next day.
My questions:
- Could this be related to the clutch being replaced?
- Is this something I should worry about, or just live with the light on?
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I installed momo steering wheel and went for a drive everything was fine horn worked, just the traction control light wont come off .
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So just to sum it up. Past few days I had been hearing a grinding/clicking noise from my left front tire. I had an accident on that side a few months back. Went to the mechanic and they said it is most probably the wheel bearing and possible the hub also.
They took it apart and changed the wheel bearing. After two days of getting the wheel bearing changed the noise is back. It is not nearly as loud but it is definitely there.
What it could be? Could it be the hub itself? I have a 07 Sonata with 100k+ miles on it
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Have an SE DSG w/ PP and 3300 miles.. When under hard acceleration and the traction control light blinks on I sometimes hear a loud BANG from the front - the car pulls great and goes like hell - just wondering is this the VAQ at work - sounds like the car slamming into gear.. Other than that noise the car is a total blast to drive even though it is now too cold to really play with it..
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I had the front right wheel bearing replaced on my Toyota Corolla (60,000 miles) replaced a couple days ago. One day after the repair, I heard a high pitched clicking noise which was noticeable around 20-30 mph. Yesterday, I still noticed the high-pitched sound but also a grinding/popping sound in front left side when coming to a stop upon every rotation of the tire. Took the car back to the shop to let them listen to the noise, but really weren't very compliant since it doesn't sound like a wheel bearing problem.
Here is YouTube link to noise car is making : [URL] .....
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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I replaced all the bearings and put in a rebuilt transmission and still have bearing like noise , seems like the front, directly increasing with speed . Same in neutral, no change with turning or breaking. Getting worse over the past few months.
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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For the past week I have had the steering wheel and traction control warning lights come on after I start the car after sitting for a long period of time. Once I drive the car a few feet the warning lights disappear. The model is a 2007 2.0T with 72,000 miles. What are next steps or should I head to the dealership? I'm out of factory warranty but have a third party warranty that expires at 75,000 miles.
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I was driving my car and forgot to turn esp off, hit boost in 2nd gear and the traction control did it's thing. didn't notice anything while driving so I didn't think anything of it. once I got home to back into my driveway, I noticed that when I turn the wheel sharply (at a standstill or very low speed) there's a clunking coming from what seems like the passenger front. I'm hoping it's not the inner cv. What it could be? I know for a fact it started right after the traction control kicked on so that's what caused it.
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Just had an oil change and during inspection they noticed that the drivers side wheel bearing is starting to go. They brought me back in the shop and I was able to feel the play in the bearing myself. Only a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.
How to replace the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I don't have a press for the bearing itself so I'm assuming I can just replace the entire hub assembly. I have already replaced the drivers side rear hub assembly about 1.5 years back due to a bad bearing
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So my front right Wheel bearing is making noise and its a used Knuckle so its w/e. Guess ill use tonight to do all my bushings and fluids n stuff.
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2006 Sonata with 90k ... When I make right turns the left front wheel is making a rubbing sound with the motion of the wheel. It's not doing it on a straight line, just turning right. I've talked to a couple of my friends and they are telling me it's a wheel bearing. I have a service manual but it's not really going into detail on what I'm in for. I work on motorcycles all the time and my good friend said he has a press if I can bring him the knuckle and the OEM bearing. Looking for a little guidance before I take the wheel off and get started. Are there any special tools involved, etc...should I do the other side while I'm doing this also...
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I am in middle of "trying to" change the wheel bearing and I have the hub out but I can't figure out how this bearing needs to come out.
I have done it on MKIV Golf and like most other cars there is a C clip, but i can't see a clip in this knuckle.
Is this thing press fit in there without a clip? I have seen a guide for MKIV Jetta and people say Passat is almost the same, but not until I find this C clip.
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I m about to replace the front wheel bearing of my 2000 1.8 t I already rent the tool (hub and bearing puller and installer) from german auto parts.com but looking for pics of step by step of the process before starting the job.
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I have a 2000 Passat and brought it to a local shop to have the left front wheel bearing changed. He took the car apart and said he couldnt do it because the anti lock brake wire ran threw the control arm and had no plug on it and was wired right to the dash board. Should i find a different place to take it to or is it a dealer required fix. Can i buy the bearing myself and change it?
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1997 buick lesabre, 4 door, v6. It was having problem stalling out. This weekend a friend and I lifted the car and replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. Drove great Saturday and Sunday. Today I get in the car, starts up without a hitch. I start heading down my street and realize I am having to push my brake pedal in ALL THE WAY to get it to stop and even then it's slow to stop. So I back up, pull the hood and check the brake fluid. Sure enough, it's low, so I run to Advance, grab some fluid and fill it up the max line and think i'm ok. Start the car up, pump the brakes a few time and notice nothing new. I get out and realize I have a very steady leak in front of the right rear wheel of fluid. It's a steady drip in two places. Is there something I could have done to have caused this. The only line we messed with on Saturday was the emergency brake line and it's clearly working (I tested it).
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I have a 2007 the front wheel bearing started humming real bad, changed it out. Can't seem to get the right front brake bled good. Did it three times. No air. Today locked up the left wheel upon putting on the brake, the right one ain't working. Is there any thing I can do other than bleed the left front again, check fluid?
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I have decent mechanical ability and recently took off both front wheel knuckles to have the wheel bearings pressed out and new ones back in. I own a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 with 106,000 miles. I didn’t have much problem getting the wheel hub knuckles off and back on and after they were reinstalled with all bolts tightened, I took the car for a test drive and right away knew something was very wrong. I heard the sound of the drive-shaft CV joint boot twisting and there was a serious lack of power. The engine speed did not correspond with the vehicle speed. Continuing a little ways, small metal noises could be heard from the passenger side wheel. The only indication I had of some problem from that side was during the reinstallation of the drive shaft into the wheel hub. The CV joint dust boot was fully extended and didn’t compress like it should. I put the car back on jacks, took off the wheel and saw that the drive-shaft boot was all twisted. It was obvious that power was going through the drive-shaft past the first CV joint, but no power was making it past the second CV joint to the wheel.
Knowing that something was seriously wrong, I had it towed to Firestone down the road. The mechanic removed the boot and said that the drive-shaft had broke. I also inspected this and saw that the drive-shaft was not connected at the wheel hub. The morning of, the car was working just fine without problems. The tool I used to remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub was a Seven Ton Reversible Puller which I rented from O'Reilly's Auto store. The drive shaft was so stuck on, that I had to use an impact wrench to turn the bolt. Could the highly forced removal of the drive-shaft from the wheel hub shatter the CV joint on the drive-shaft?
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Having issues with noise from either LT or RT front wheel bearings? My 2011 Elantra has some sort of noise coming from the LT frt wheel
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