LeSabre :: 2002 - Plastic Twist On Ignition Switch Disintegrated?
Jul 4, 2015
Must be the interior temperature this time of year, one ear of the plastic twist on the ignition switch has disintegrated. Can that be easily replaced or is it part of the ignition switch?
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Just got done installing the ignition switch on my 02 Malibu. Car starts up and runs fine, the only problem is that when I take the key out of the ignition. The car still thinks its in and continues to beep. I Checked and made sure that everything else in the car was off, and it still continues to beep and won't let me lock the car when i open the door because it believes the key is still in the ignition. I double checked and made sure all the wires were plugged in properly and still have the same issue. What is going on?
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Camry 2002 XLE 4Cyl. 2.4 ... When I switch ignition key on, there are no ABS and Brake light come on. Why is that happening? How to fix it? Normally, when we switch ignition key on, what are indicator light on?
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My Buick LeSabre, 2000 model, has had the wiper motor replaced 3 times in an attempt to solve this problem. The multi-switch has also been replaced. The rain sensor on the windshield was disconnected after the 3 motors were put in just to eliminate a potential cause. It is plugged back in now.The problem is intermittent as well. When you are driving, the wipers engage and nothing will stop them.The car has a little less than 80,000 miles on it.
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My husband's 2001 Buick LeSabre had an ignition module and one ignition coil replaced in March. Yesterday, the car broke down, and the mechanic told us that the new ignition coil shorted out the other two coils. Is this believable? We've been using the same mechanic for several years because we trusted him and have heard a lot of good things about him, but this seems kinda fishy. This car is not one of the GM cars that was recalled.
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99 Buick LeSabre ... I only have one low-beam working, the other low-beam bulb went out today ... When I switch to high-beams, the high-beams come on, but I cannot turn them off via the manual light on/off switch on the door panel ... The Twilight Sentinel works properly, and will shut off the high-beams per switch setting ... During the daytime, the high-beams will just stay on till I turn off the car, manual headlight switch won't turn them off ...
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Pulling into work this morning I noticed my check engine light was flashing. The car (1997 Buick LeSabre, aka The Rolling Couch) was still running and everything seemed normal. I turned off the car and then went back out 3 hours later and tried to start it. It would not start, and the symptom is not one I've had any luck Googling. When I turn the key, it makes a sound, but it's not a click. It's the normal sound when ignition starts, but the engine does not crank at all or turn over. It just makes a single ignition sound and then nothing. Could this be a belt? The starter? I have not taken it anywhere or pulled the error code yet.
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My car refused to start after being in the driveway for about 2 days, the battery seems to be fine, the electronics are working, and the gas tank is full. The car seems like its trying to start and when you twist the key but after a seconds just sputters out. I checked under the hood, on the battery terminals there is some sort of red sticky buildup...
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I have a 98 Passat 1.8T with 99,000 miles on her. The stripping on the either side of the windshield has just about completely disintegrated from the desert heat in Vegas. I have tried searching all over the internet but I can't find exactly what I need.
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My Treg is in the shop at the moment to have some squeaks and rattles looked at - and I was expecting to get it back on Monday this week. However, was told on Tuesday by the garage that the engineers had discovered that the rear handbrake shoes had completely disintegrated and that they needed to replace them. Now
a) I don't make a habit of driving around with the handbrake on, and
b) my car has only done 6,000 miles
So what's going on? To cap it all, the parts are on back-order from Germany. Which means it will likely be two weeks before I get my car back. This is starting to get on my nerves. It feels like my Treg is in the garage more than out of it and I'm beginning to regret my purchase.
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I have a 2002 Buick LeSabre. Back information is this. the car has had a coolant leak for years, very slow though. Last night while working (I drive for a living) the thermostat climbed up to hot and then immediately went back down to the middle range where it normally goes, so I thought I was fine. It then climbed back up and staled out. It started again nearly immediately and I made it back to my work. About 30 minutes later I began to drive home. The temperature gauge started to climb up again, and then immediately went back to normal running temperature. I kept an eye on it.
About 2 minutes later it shut off completely. I had dash lights, head lights, and emergency flashers. Trying to restart it killed my battery and I had it towed home. This morning I put water in it (it was a gallon low even though I had filled it three days prior). I got a jump start but the car wouldn't start. It cranked and cranked but would not start. I did notice a leak of water from near the bottom of the engine. I am curious as to what the problem may be and why it is not starting now.
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Is it possible to change the ignition switch without the key. Problem is my old key broke so im replacing the whole switch.
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Is there any way to replace the keyed ignition with a simple momentary switch of some sort? Or is the built in security features too intertangled in the whole design? IE I suspect I'd have to disable tronsponder, keyed ignition, security system, steering column lock, some computer features? I definitely no expert but wondering if it's possible.
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Replacing the ignition switch? I heard it possibly needs some VAG COM changes related to the immobilizer?
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we just replaced the intake manifold and also put on new spark plug wires and plugs. now the engine is missing but only after it warms up. i double checked all the wires and connections and they looked good. is there something obvious that i should look at since it is still doing it?
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Buick LeSabre 2002.. Several months ago, several electric items in my car failed... all at once. For the cig lighter especially, I looked through both fuseboxes (front and back) for any fuse that looked like it might be responsible for that circuit. I was checking the abbreviations on the fusebox diagrams and wasn't able to find a busted fuse.
However, with several things going wrong at once, I wonder if it was some other kind of fuse or relay. I don't have the equipment to check relays, thought I found how to do it on YouTube. What might be causing them all to stop working at once.
Cigarette Lighter
Interior/Cabin Lights
Reverse Lights
Power door locks
Trunk light
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I've got a problem with my 93 ford escort. About a month ago things in it began to stop working. 1st the wipers and then the heater. and now the ignition won't start my car. It will allow it to turn over but it doesn't turn on the engine light before it starts to kick in. Bad key assembly or the whole switch? Or a relay ?
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Had to replace the ignition switch. after I went to crank it after switching it out, there was a buzzing around the relay control module. Thought that maybe somehow the ignition tripped something in it so bought a new one. IT is still buzzing and car won't turn over. everything lights up on dash. tried to see if there were any codes and the scanner just reads "fail".
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I was having all the tell tale signs of the almighty ignition switch. No lights, wipers, heater fan. But I didn't have time to change it. The other day went to start it and nothing. I changed the switch I have headlights wipers blower fan now which is sweet. But the car still wont turn over.
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When I put my key in the ignition, I cannot turn the key. I tried putting a small amount of WD40 in the ignition and turning the wheel back and forth while trying to start, but all that did was make my key greasy and my wheel lock up. I've tried getting a new key made from Lowes and Home Depot, but their keys are too wide and will not fit in the keyholes. The only thing I am down to is replacing the ignition switch completely but I'd rather do that as a last resort because my car has had a big problem every week (alternator gone, new wheels, new master cylinder, new rotors/brakes). I haven't explored yet? And also, if it comes down to replacing the ignition switch, how would I do that without being able to turn the key?
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Key Hard To Get In ignition switch, What Lub Should I Use?
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