Having problems setting driver comfort controls after replacing the battery. Does the car have to go thru a relearn process before all will come back to normal?
Used to be able to keep A/C set on auto. Now the A/C and fan motor won't come on unless you turn A/C to Off and then hit the AUTO button.
Was adjusting some of my settings today. My "Comfort" setting disappeared from the menu. This has happened before. how to get it back? I need to set my door unlock to unlock all including the tailgate.
View 17 RepliesLooks like I erased the Comfort setting in the MFI, I was changing stations at a light and noticed those menus, played with them for a bit and I hit it at factory reset. Since then I have not been able to get the Comfort menu to come up. Is there anything I can do to get it back or will I need to go to the dealer to get it reset?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Buick LeSabre. Back information is this. the car has had a coolant leak for years, very slow though. Last night while working (I drive for a living) the thermostat climbed up to hot and then immediately went back down to the middle range where it normally goes, so I thought I was fine. It then climbed back up and staled out. It started again nearly immediately and I made it back to my work. About 30 minutes later I began to drive home. The temperature gauge started to climb up again, and then immediately went back to normal running temperature. I kept an eye on it.
About 2 minutes later it shut off completely. I had dash lights, head lights, and emergency flashers. Trying to restart it killed my battery and I had it towed home. This morning I put water in it (it was a gallon low even though I had filled it three days prior). I got a jump start but the car wouldn't start. It cranked and cranked but would not start. I did notice a leak of water from near the bottom of the engine. I am curious as to what the problem may be and why it is not starting now.
My 1995 Buick Lesabre will intermittently drain the battery after sitting for about 12 hours. It is unpredictable. The battery was newly installed in December, 2010 and the alternator was tested at that time and about three weeks ago and proved to be recharging properly. This battery kill happens even when there is no visible sign of current usage, such as a dome light being left on. What I should look for in order to to find the source of the current drain?
View 2 Replieswe just replaced the intake manifold and also put on new spark plug wires and plugs. now the engine is missing but only after it warms up. i double checked all the wires and connections and they looked good. is there something obvious that i should look at since it is still doing it?
View 2 RepliesBuick LeSabre 2002.. Several months ago, several electric items in my car failed... all at once. For the cig lighter especially, I looked through both fuseboxes (front and back) for any fuse that looked like it might be responsible for that circuit. I was checking the abbreviations on the fusebox diagrams and wasn't able to find a busted fuse.
However, with several things going wrong at once, I wonder if it was some other kind of fuse or relay. I don't have the equipment to check relays, thought I found how to do it on YouTube. What might be causing them all to stop working at once.
Cigarette Lighter
Interior/Cabin Lights
Reverse Lights
Power door locks
Trunk light
We just 3-inches of rain in 12-hour period and got some water on rug in front of driver seat but standing water to the rear of the drivers seat. We had this problem before and blew out the leaves and debris underneath the screen type cover that runs the width of the front window along the bottom of the window.
View 5 RepliesI have a 02 Buick Lesabre. The door locks and windows won't roll up or down anymore. I have checked and replaced the 30 amp fuse for power windows and also checked and replaced the window door switch for the drivers side and still nothing works. What else could it be?
View 5 RepliesMy 2002 Buick Lesabre has about 160,000 miles on it I keep up with maintenance regular oil changes and what not. Today when I am driving to work and right as I get on the freeway my car starts lurching forward and slowing down repeatedly so I pull over turn the car off look under the hood everything looks normal to me. I wait a bit start the car up and the lights on my panel go from the dimmest they can be to blinding bright and I could not adjust the brightness at all. Any way the car drove fine the rest of the way but the lights were bright as can be the whole way there. What could be causing this? Bad battery?
View 5 RepliesOn 12/30/14 my car had 6 spark plugs and a gasket replaced by a GM dealershhip in response to the check engine light being on. An air induction service and a fuel injector cleaning service was also performed at this time. On 01/26/15 I had to replace the battery in my car. After replacing the battery the check engine light was on and has stayed on. I read elsewhere online something to the effect that when a car battery is changed your car has to relearn the emissions system and the check engine light might possibly come on but should go off after driving awhile. I have driven approximately 300 miles since the battery change and the car is running fine. However, the check engine light is still on. The GM dealership is in another town and I hate to make the trip to have it checked if I don't really need to.
View 6 RepliesI have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
I pulled the traction battery...remanned it with great success computer very happy with results... drove it for a week. Took it to Walmart to have oil changed... Got in car , started fine...new oil made motor even smoother....then in 200 yards at traffic light , motor died with unusual sound... pulled over and restarted...but would die. Lights all over dash on.
made it back to oil bay...engine would not restart.
pushed inside and would start and then die... then was rattling when dying
checked aux battery with testers , both indicated dead cell 10.25 volts
tried to substitute a new battery via heavy jumpers... got it to start then die..,..then no try at all
I have read forums ,,,that indicate after 3 tries on a dead aux battery , computer will immobilize it
Have tried replacing with a new lawn tractor battery .but seems the car is immobized . Read codes with Mini VCI, and was able to clear all codes but the immobilizer code.
The driver's seatbelt no longer retracts. I took it to my dealer and they want $585 to replace it. I can pick up a used one for $65. If I can figure out how to get the door pillar trim off can I replace this seatbelt or is it incorporated into the airbag system and requires special munitions skills?
View 6 RepliesDisconnected my battery for about 15 minutes to wire up HIDs. Couldn't put them in due to the nut not coming off the battery bolt. tightened battery and started car. dash has amber steering light on and traction light. when i put it in reverse (AT) it banged into gear, then put in "manual mode" trans jumped and banged into 3rd gear. also noticed 1 touch windows not working. What might have gone wrong from a simple battery disconnect. no additional wires were hooked up to the car or did i forget to reset something.
View 4 RepliesBattery kept dying. Had the battery tested. Bench tested as OK but kept dying. Replaced the battery with a new OEM. In a week, that battery was dying too. Alternator was putting out 13V but would dip down to 11V. Also did a parasitic current draw test. Car is only drawing 20mA at rest. Replaced the alternator with brand new. New alternator putting out 14.4V. Battery keeps dying. Still no parasitic current draw.
I did two things right around the same time I started having the issue. I put in a new head unit. I already had an aftermarket head unit and I simply upgraded. I know this isn't the issue because I ripped the thing out completely, including wiring harness, and I still kept having a problem. The other change I made was going from a MFSW to a 3-spoke. I removed the MFSW relay and switched the pins in the column so that the horn and airbag work properly. I tried the cruise control and it doesn't work. When I try to turn on the cruise control, it blows the horn fuse. Replaced the horn fuse and I just don't use the cruise.
What I'm wondering is if I messed up the CCM when I did the steering wheel swap. I've read that bad CCMs can kill batteries. I'm not having the typical faulty CCM issues. The only issues, besides the battery dying, are that the unlock on the keyfob will stop working at random, and the "door ajar" light on my dash flickers at random.
I have recently noticed that my car will stall out when I get up to about 20 mph. My car starts fine, no check engine light on. I has a tendency to just die in the middle of the road at times too. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new fuel filter. Do I need to change the mass air flow sensor? Or the crank position sensor? I have no problems starting the car either. Runs good when it runs.
View 10 RepliesWhere is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Buick Century which is more or less reliable. Last year the fan stopped working on the first (low) setting, but continued to work on levels 2-5. Air came out of all of the vents, using the fan, A/C, or heat with no problems. A few days ago, level 2 stopped. The next day levels 3 and 4 stopped. The fan still works on the highest setting, but it's just starting to be summer in Minnesota and I'm worried that level 5 will stop on the hottest day of the year. Is this a simple fuse problem I can fix myself? Complicated repairs are probably beyond me, but I can do basic repairs.
View 6 Replies1996 buick lesabre custom 3800. The car stalls from time to time, and the fuel pump, power windows, power seats, and power mirrors all stop working. Most people who have had this problem cleaned the ground bus on the drivers side under the carpet. I have done this, and the car has not stalled yet, but I haven't driven it far because I have noticed the fuel pump relay and power windows relay are getting extremely hot to the touch after 5 minutes or so of driving. Why these relays are getting so hot? I cannot afford to keep getting the car towed home.
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 Buick Lesabre has always shown to run exactly normal on the temperature dash unit until recently. I checked my coolant level and it was a bit low, so I added. After I filled the radiator I have noticed a coolant leak spot on my driveway, after I drive it now. I have removed the gravel shield and have tried to pin point exactly where the leak is coming from, but cannot. Now, each time I park, after driving it, I put a clean piece of cardboard under it to try to see exactly what area the leak is coming from. Last night I put the car on ramps and crawled under to discover that the leak is located just above the oil filter and is actually dripping from the oil filter, but I still cannot see the exact location of the leak.Actually the leak does not appear until about an hour after I park the car, so it sounds like something is contracting after the engine has cooled off, but what? The leak has seemed to be getting worse each time I drive the car. How can I determine exactly where the leak is coming from without just changing a bunch of parts.
View 10 Replies