LeSabre :: 2001 - AC Low Pressure Service Port?
Aug 3, 2014
My son has an 01 LeSabre Custom with 87k. He says the a/c isn't working. I tried to put my gauges on it tonight, but I couldn't find the low pressure service port, but there's two on the high side (one on either side of a tubing connector).
I figure it should be obvious. I'm worried that the system was previously dorked with...with the two high-side ports and no low-side port. But everything looks factory.
The dryer is in the front left (passenger) of the engine compartment (when standing in front of and facing vehicle). I see the low-side line from evaporator come into it, then out of it down to the compressor in the center bottom, behind radiator. No port that I can find.
While looking for the a/c port, I also saw CVJ grease splattered all over on the driver side...it's always something. Just bought this last February (couldn't check the a/c too well) to replace the very nice 00 LeSabre 55k we bought in November for him. But the 00 didn't survive the collision with the truck that pulled in front of him...
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I have a 2006 F-250 6.0 diesel. The high side service port schrader valve is leaking. Currently there is a charge on the system but its low. I planned on evac-ing the system, replace the cores and refill until i came across this valve remove/replacement tool from MasterCool. The only problem i have is not knowing whether or not this tool fits the valve cores I have. I see already that the high side is quite a large core. I cant even find a core removal tool at local auto parts stores to fit. What size my valve cores are or if the following would fit both high and low sides?
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I recently tried to recharge my 1994 Saturn SW2 air conditioning. The system took the charge fine, nice cool air again. Yea! On disconnecting the adapter, I heard the sound of escaping gas. I was able to place my thumb over the port and block the leak, tried reattaching adapter and removing several times, but the valve will not fully seal. Placing the cap back on the port with a small piece of plastic food wrap (hi tech) stopped the sound, but obviously not the leak entirely. A couple of weeks and the a/c is back to blowing hot air.
Is there any way to encourage the valve to seal? Should I try the variety of refrigerant that seals leaks? Is there a better choice for blocking the leak than food wrap? If it comes to it, replacing the low pressure line, is that something a person who knows how to use a wrench but not much more can do?
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Have an E150 van with 302 engine. Where is the low pressure charging port on this beast.? The high press. is immediately visible but can not find low....
The van still has the old r-12 and I have 2 cans left...want to charge the system one more time before we get our new 6.0L VAN late this winter!
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Where is it. Probably under some shroud, but before I start taking things off, where it is from the perspective of standing in front of the grill.
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Recharging the A/C on a 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS.
I think I have a slow leak, so I bought a DIY and was going to recharge it and see if that fixes it. Where exactly is the low pressure port so I can charge it?
Is it complicated to do? Looking for a picture of the location?
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I have a ES350 and it is doing the issue of having warm air (or not cooled air) on the driver side, but has cold air on the passenger side. I looked around and saw it was a common problem. One of the solutions I read was to just refill the system with R134A. Not a problem for me, except I don't know where the low pressure port is located in my car. I was trying to find a online service repair manual on my car to locate where I need to connect to, to recharge the system.
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Plugging a multiple USB port into the single USB port? Does it work? For example a plugging a USB drive and an IPod?
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I am doing heads studs and gaskets on the truck. I forgot to remove the stand pipe and started to lift the head off the truck with the engine jack. Well i bent the stand pipe and the port to the bock was a little loose. Tightened it back down and it seems ok. Could I have damaged anything by doing that? how is that all connected to the high pressure oil pump? I just want to make sure i didnt damage anything by doing that and since im already here I would rather make a fix instead of needed to tear down again.
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I am getting no pressure at the fuel rail. Relay seems to be ok, so I am assuming the pump just failed (in the driveway luckily). Before I drop the fuel tank, I would like to confirm I am getting voltage back to the pump. I cannot fine any wiring in or under the car going to that area! How to find that circuit as close to the pump as possible and still accessible without dropping the tank?
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In Oct. my wife took the car 40 miles from home, lost the brakes, and limped into a gas station. The guy there gave her a bottle of brake fluid and some stop leak. He suggested equal amounts of both and limp back home. She drove back and went to the machanic in town. He wanted $365 to replace all of the brake lines. He said there may be brake pressure problems and he will address them later. Recently I loaned my son the car so that he could deliver newspapers.
After 2 weeks we needed new front brakes. I had brake pressure problems. If the brake pedal did not feel spongy then the brakes felt inconsistent-sometimes high and sometimes down to the floor. There was a sticky passenger front caliper that was replaced. The brakes were bleed and are still spongy and inconsistent. I noticed that the reservoir cap is not good. Could the cap be the cause of the sponginess? There are no leaks around the master cylinder and there are no leaks. Should I replace the master cylinder? 1996 Buick LeSabre 3.8L....
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I seem to lose power steering pressure when I hold the wheel in a turn. It is only temporary as it cycles until I release the turn. I happens turning in both directions and a any speed. I have replaced the struts and strut mounts and have rotated the tires. The power steering fluid quantity is good with no leaks.1995 Buick Lesabre.
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I cant find the port on fuel rail to get a fuel pressure reading.it is nothing like my tarus.saw astem sticking up on front right of rail but it has some kind of covering over it. It is a 2005 freestar with the 3.9 motor.
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I have a friend who Just picked up a 2001 GTI 1.8T (auto) and it has a Check Engine Light, but will not communicate with the scan tool. It does have an aftermarket radio, and I did unplug it for giggles, but still no comunication. the K line has 8V on it now.
Is there something IM missing here thats a common problem?
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The light has been coming on for the last couple of weeks. I can reset the light by pushing the dash button. On a 700 mile trip last weekend, I probably reset it half a dozen times. The tires are all at 30 PSIg. Two tire gauges agree. I don't know how the system works. I don't think there is a sensor in each wheel like some later cars have. I suspect it works off of ABS sensors and wheel revolutions. The ABS light is not on, nor has it been.
The right rear tire has been replaced with one of the same size, but a different brand. This issue started a month after that. Can that tire have a different revolution length per rotation and cause this issue?
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Took our 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan to a tire shop today. One sensor battery is completely dead, and when replaced, the other 3 batteries were too weak remove the alert from the information panel. Cost to repair all 4 is $400. Decided to live with the alert and they graciously put the bad sensor back in. Is there any way to disable the system? I check tire pressures regularly anyway. The continuous alert is agrivating.
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I have a 2001 Buick LeSabre Ltd. A few days ago, I started the engine then turned on the air. The AC Control Unit on the dash seems to work fine. However, the air did not come out from the vents at all. I checked all the fuses under the back seat and under the hood. No fuses were blown.
P.S.: The car is is the South where it is really hot at this time. A few weeks before. The two back doors' windows stopped working (cannot roll down, cannot open via switch). When pressing the buttons at driver's door, I can hear the "click" sounds from the back doors, but they still don't work. That makes me think it is the fuses that also cause problem with the AC now too.
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My 2001 Buick Lesabre has always shown to run exactly normal on the temperature dash unit until recently. I checked my coolant level and it was a bit low, so I added. After I filled the radiator I have noticed a coolant leak spot on my driveway, after I drive it now. I have removed the gravel shield and have tried to pin point exactly where the leak is coming from, but cannot. Now, each time I park, after driving it, I put a clean piece of cardboard under it to try to see exactly what area the leak is coming from. Last night I put the car on ramps and crawled under to discover that the leak is located just above the oil filter and is actually dripping from the oil filter, but I still cannot see the exact location of the leak.Actually the leak does not appear until about an hour after I park the car, so it sounds like something is contracting after the engine has cooled off, but what? The leak has seemed to be getting worse each time I drive the car. How can I determine exactly where the leak is coming from without just changing a bunch of parts.
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My son's 2001 LeSabre (3800 N/A) was smoking under the hood and the odor was entering the cabin. I decided it was likely due to coolant and oil leaks from the valve covers and manifold gaskets as well as a crack in the upper radiator hose. So I replaced all the gaskets and hoses and cleaned it up some.
After a test drive, smoke still coming from under hood. It appeared to come from the exhaust crossover joints (mainly front) and possibly from the seam on the crossover "shroud". I suspected some rust damage to the crossover, so pulled it out. (And spent my Sunday digging out a broken bolt. )
I don't see any visible rust on the crossover (but can't inspect the entire thing visually). Could it be a clogged catalytic converter causing back pressure and the leak? Or is it more likely something under the hood like a head gasket. (I hope not. )
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I just bought a 2001 Buick Lesabre and it was driving fine until this morning when it misfired on the highway. I was going about 40 mph and I felt a little jerk in my engine and my CEL started to flash. I pulled it over and got it towed to my house and my code reader says a p0300...which is a random misfire code. So I figured i just need a tune up so I went and bought new plugs and wires and replaced the old ones. And to my surprise...still a noisy shakey rough erratic start and idle. Before this there were no problems the car shifted properly to all gears and picked up and accelerated like a champ there were no obvious issues. Now I cant get it out of my driveway. I was wondering if any other problems could cause this misfire, and how to eliminate problems without buying parts?
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I have a 2001 Buick LeSabre (Limited), with 101,000 miles. It runs great and a very reliable car except:
After going for some driving in town during a warm day (60 F or above) doing business, the engine gets warm but within normal temperature range, and after making a stop to get groceries for eample, I have to be very careful when starting the car again. If I let the starter go for more than a quarter tourn (crank), the engine gets week and acts like it is flooded with gas, just like when we had carburators in old car and it dies after a few shakings.
So I have to wait for 15 minutes at least before I restart the engine but doing so I have to be really careful again not to let the starter crank for more than a quarter turn. However, this problem does not happen during cold weather days (say below 40 degrees F). What is going on with my car?
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