LeSabre :: 2001 - AC Just Stops Working
Jun 28, 2015
I have a 2001 Buick LeSabre Ltd. A few days ago, I started the engine then turned on the air. The AC Control Unit on the dash seems to work fine. However, the air did not come out from the vents at all. I checked all the fuses under the back seat and under the hood. No fuses were blown.
P.S.: The car is is the South where it is really hot at this time. A few weeks before. The two back doors' windows stopped working (cannot roll down, cannot open via switch). When pressing the buttons at driver's door, I can hear the "click" sounds from the back doors, but they still don't work. That makes me think it is the fuses that also cause problem with the AC now too.
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I have a 2001 Passat GLX. On occasion (usually when it is hot) the cluster will reset as if the key was cycled while you are driving. All the cluster warning lights come on, the needles drop to zero, and the trip odometer resets.
When the is occurring it also seems that the A/C stops working and the the car will tend to lock itself and set the alarm. Well except the driver's rear door doesn't actually lock.
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I've got a 1995 Buick LeSabre that has a curious problem with the air conditioner. The AC blows good and cold, but when I accelerate the air stops blowing from the vents. I can still hear the fan running, so it's like the air is being redirected somewhere. Now, once I get up to speed after accelerating, if I let off the accelerator for a second, the AC resumes blowing normally.
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A few weeks ago my battery died and I had to jump start my car. After the jump start, my heat wasn't working - no air will blow out on heat or A/C. I checked the fuses - all good.
I pulled the blower motor out and tested it and it worked hooked up to a battery. At one point when the blower motor was still in the car I banged it with a hammer and it turned on momentarily then shut off again.
Since the blower motor seemed to work outside of the car, I assumed it was the resistor that was bad. Replaced , and still no heat.
Could the blower motor be bad and just have worked hooked to a battery intermittently?
What else could it be?
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I am having problems with with the rear defroster and the a/c in my '98 Buick Lesabre, they went out at the same time, and I checked the fuses in the fuse box, and the meter says they are all good, the fan motor isn't running either, and I think that they are all tied together.
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My 2001 Buick Lesabre has always shown to run exactly normal on the temperature dash unit until recently. I checked my coolant level and it was a bit low, so I added. After I filled the radiator I have noticed a coolant leak spot on my driveway, after I drive it now. I have removed the gravel shield and have tried to pin point exactly where the leak is coming from, but cannot. Now, each time I park, after driving it, I put a clean piece of cardboard under it to try to see exactly what area the leak is coming from. Last night I put the car on ramps and crawled under to discover that the leak is located just above the oil filter and is actually dripping from the oil filter, but I still cannot see the exact location of the leak.Actually the leak does not appear until about an hour after I park the car, so it sounds like something is contracting after the engine has cooled off, but what? The leak has seemed to be getting worse each time I drive the car. How can I determine exactly where the leak is coming from without just changing a bunch of parts.
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My son has an 01 LeSabre Custom with 87k. He says the a/c isn't working. I tried to put my gauges on it tonight, but I couldn't find the low pressure service port, but there's two on the high side (one on either side of a tubing connector).
I figure it should be obvious. I'm worried that the system was previously dorked with...with the two high-side ports and no low-side port. But everything looks factory.
The dryer is in the front left (passenger) of the engine compartment (when standing in front of and facing vehicle). I see the low-side line from evaporator come into it, then out of it down to the compressor in the center bottom, behind radiator. No port that I can find.
While looking for the a/c port, I also saw CVJ grease splattered all over on the driver side...it's always something. Just bought this last February (couldn't check the a/c too well) to replace the very nice 00 LeSabre 55k we bought in November for him. But the 00 didn't survive the collision with the truck that pulled in front of him...
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My son's 2001 LeSabre (3800 N/A) was smoking under the hood and the odor was entering the cabin. I decided it was likely due to coolant and oil leaks from the valve covers and manifold gaskets as well as a crack in the upper radiator hose. So I replaced all the gaskets and hoses and cleaned it up some.
After a test drive, smoke still coming from under hood. It appeared to come from the exhaust crossover joints (mainly front) and possibly from the seam on the crossover "shroud". I suspected some rust damage to the crossover, so pulled it out. (And spent my Sunday digging out a broken bolt. )
I don't see any visible rust on the crossover (but can't inspect the entire thing visually). Could it be a clogged catalytic converter causing back pressure and the leak? Or is it more likely something under the hood like a head gasket. (I hope not. )
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I just bought a 2001 Buick Lesabre and it was driving fine until this morning when it misfired on the highway. I was going about 40 mph and I felt a little jerk in my engine and my CEL started to flash. I pulled it over and got it towed to my house and my code reader says a p0300...which is a random misfire code. So I figured i just need a tune up so I went and bought new plugs and wires and replaced the old ones. And to my surprise...still a noisy shakey rough erratic start and idle. Before this there were no problems the car shifted properly to all gears and picked up and accelerated like a champ there were no obvious issues. Now I cant get it out of my driveway. I was wondering if any other problems could cause this misfire, and how to eliminate problems without buying parts?
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I have a 2001 Buick LeSabre (Limited), with 101,000 miles. It runs great and a very reliable car except:
After going for some driving in town during a warm day (60 F or above) doing business, the engine gets warm but within normal temperature range, and after making a stop to get groceries for eample, I have to be very careful when starting the car again. If I let the starter go for more than a quarter tourn (crank), the engine gets week and acts like it is flooded with gas, just like when we had carburators in old car and it dies after a few shakings.
So I have to wait for 15 minutes at least before I restart the engine but doing so I have to be really careful again not to let the starter crank for more than a quarter turn. However, this problem does not happen during cold weather days (say below 40 degrees F). What is going on with my car?
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My 2001 Buick Lesabre 3.8 loses power at highway speeds, sets a PO101 code (MAF sensor). I have replaced the MAF sensor 3 times, as well as the coolant temperature sensor, the crank position sensor, the throttle position sensor, the MAP sensor, the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) , the pcv valve, the egr valve, the Idle air control sensor. After cruising at highway speed for about 3 miles the car still loses power for about 20 seconds then gradually regains power only to repeat the fault again 3 or 4 miles down the road.
Otherwise the car has plenty of power quickly achieving 100+ mph going though the gears smoothly and normally. I have inspected the intake plenum and vacuum hoses for leaks and have found none, all in very good condition. The car ha 122,000 miles on it and has been well cared for, very clean under the hood with no leaks. I did reduce the egr chimney size to 3/8" while replacing the intake gaskets and that reduced the symptoms somewhat, i.e., the car only loses about 15 mph instead of dropping to about 25 mph before recovering.
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My 2001 F250 5.4 V8 truck have factory installed AC. 2 or 3 times a year, the AC will stop blowing cold air after heavy load. If I turn the truck off for few hours, it will work fine again. To be clear, the AC will continue to blow air, it is just not cold and it happens few times a year. What's wrong with it?
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When starting my car first thing in the morning, for the first few minutes there is a loud roaring seems like. The sound subsides and the car sounds normally after a little bit. The next issue is when I start the car after it is already warm. It starts very strange...It is a little hard to describe. As soon as you hit the starter it just turns over instantly, seems almost prematurely. And when you go to shut the car off, it just seems like it makes a loud noise and the motor abruptly shuts off. I am not too educated with vehicles, and I am just looking for some input. I just purchased this car a week ago with 82,200 miles on it I have never driven a Buick before so these things may be normal.
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I drive a Volvo S40, 2006 with 45K miles. When I take the car out of my garage the AC works beautifully until the car begins to get warm. At about 30 minutes into the driving trip, only warm air blows. If I park anywhere in the sun, the AC does not provide cold air at all. The AC only works when the car is cool. I brought it to the dealer and they said the compressor is shouting off and needs to be replaced. I was hoping that it was low on refrigerant, which they did not check, and my son thinking that a fan belt gets loose when the car warms up. When I went to the dealer it was a cool day. I drove several places that morning and the AC worked for three hours before going warm.
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When I approach a stop my a/c stops working and then begins working again when I drive. How can I fix this problem?
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My wife has recently been complaining that the AC will work for a while, but then it stops working after running for about 30 minutes. She also reports that, at that time, the air flow (blower speed?) seems to drop tremendously. I have observed the former but not the latter, so I can't say for sure that if it really drops in air flow or if it's just a matter of perception. I put my AC gauges on it and it reports the following:
Static reading is 70/100 PSI
Reading system on is 17/145 PSI
Ambient temperature is ~92 degrees humidity is 65%
Vent reading is ~77 degrees
I can see movement in the sight glass while the vehicle is running. I'd like to add a little refrigerant (if that's what it looks like it needs) just to see if we can make it through the summer. Prior to the AC problems popping up.
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The 12V cigarette lighter plug stops working so I can't charge my phone. The 12v plug in the trunk works. I don't know much about cars. I drive a 99 passat
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My Acura has been having some problems with what I"m guessing is a computer glitch. It's been to the mechanic four times in the past two weeks and while my dealer has been great about cooperating and trying to fix the problem, I think they just don't know what the problem is. The problems started when one day I was driving the car and all of a sudden all the error message lights came on and the car could no longer accelerate. Drove it slowly back home but when i took it to the mechanic the next day, it was working fine so he couldn't do anything about it.
Took it home and within ten minutes the problem started again. This time i took it to an Acura dealer and they kept the car for two days until it started acting up again (engine warning lights and what not) and they did an engine valve replacement of the traction control or some such thing. Two days later I was driving and the car just shut off and wouldn't turn back on. I was moving and not stopped or anything at the time. Took the car back again and they decided to change the whole computer system. Now two days later again, the check emission and check transmission warnings came on again.
The car is still working for the time being but its only a matter of time before it conks out on me. Also, even while running, the lights that indicitate what gear it is in continuously flash (so the D is flashing instead of solid) and occasionally the D and D3 lights are flashing simultaneously even though I am obviously in drive.
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When I first got my GTI this was a problem maybe every could weeks or so. The driver's side auto up/down will randomly stop working almost every day now. I do the reset by holding the button down for 5 seconds when the window is down and then holding it up for 5 seconds when it's up. It then functions as it should and malfunctions a day or so later. I have a VAG-COM, not sure if that can reset something in the module? Not sure if it could also be the switch itself? I COULD go to the dealer but last time they just did the reset procedure and sent me on my way.
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The power steering on our 98 Toyota Sienna sometimes stops working for a second. It only happens when the car is first started and usually when it is raining or has rained recently. I checked some old posts from Tom and Ray and found one that sounded similar. They said it was the belt being either wet or worn or not tight enough. Does that sound like what our problem is? It also squeals sometimes when you turn the wheel too much so it does seem like the belt could be slipping.
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2003 Merc. SABLE. AC works great for 1/2 hour on the highway. Then No cool air. We shut it off. An hour later and 70 miles down the road , it works again. Always cold air.. no matter where you set temp. 4 times to 3 mechanics. No one can solve it.
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