LeSabre :: 2000 All Dash Lights Stay On After Starting
Apr 19, 2016
2000 lesabre picked up this car cause person didnt want to deal with problem any more. car starts n runs fine, but all instrument panel warning lights would come back on as if you turned on ignition but didnt start engine. everything fine for about 2 seconds after starting, then all lights come back on, gas gauge plummets to empty, and radio and door locks go dead. read alot of forums but this problem not to common. finally found one that said rear integration module replacement fixed it. so i unplugged it and opened the case n looked for bad solder or burn but couldnt see anything. flexed it a bit looking for cracks- nothing. put it back in and car worked great for 2 days. hooray! not so fast! left it outside the 2nd nite, went down to 22 degrees,- same problem. figured id try a used one from a boneyard. working great going on 2 weeks now, cold weather and all!
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I have a 97 Buick Lesabre, when I use the turn signals (Doesn't matter right or left) the arrows on the dash stay illuminated. The turn signals aren't turning on, on the outside of the vehicle either. The hazards work just fine though (Blinking on the dash and outside of the car). I replaced all four flasher bulbs (2 in the back 2 in the front), nothing. I replaced the dual filament tail lights, still nothing. I replaced the flasher unit under the dash, still nothing. Where's the next place to look?
Other interesting information : This happened a day after I took the car through a drive through car wash.-Since I've had the car, the turn signals have never self canceled (As in after executing a turn the blinkers stay on)....
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Several times now I have found that the courtesy lights stay ON after all the doors are closed, and the dash switch is indeed off. This has caused the battery to drain.
I have opened and closed all doors numerous times and the light won't go off. I can't seem to find where the door switches are so that I can inspect them.
The last time this happened I was forced to remove the fuse, then the next day I put the fuse back in and the lights operated correctly.
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?
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My daughter has a 2000 accent , SOHC 12V, I think it's the 1.5L.. It will not stay running when the engine is cold...........after it warms up, or if it sits in the hot sun it's fine................it has 166K .
She said she took it to an auto parts store and had the engine code read, p1123 came up.....
Code P1123 : Long term fuel trim, at idle - mixture too rich..
What do you think this is caused by................ the inlet air temp sensor? I was told someone just replaced the air max flow sensor, that don't sound correct to me, but that's what they called it....probably the MAF sensor....
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Noticed this evening that my parking lights were on in my '01 Elantra. Car has been sitting since Friday evening in my garage. The lights were not on earlier today.
The car did start right up when I turned it on. Went inside to research and an hour later the lights are off again.
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Just recently now the dash warning lights stay on or come back on shortly there after when the key is removed. I replaced the ignition switch. I can even leave the wiring to it disconnected with the same result. When the positive battery cable is removed and reconnected I can hear relay or relays clicking.
I pulled all one at a time next to the master cylinder in the two boxes. same result. I pulled all relays in the fuse box in the cab one at a time. no change.
Maybe related about a month ago the hvac fan stayed on. we had to turn that to the off position to remedy that. than it "fixed" itself. Starting points to check on this 4.6 with 361k on the clock 99% original....
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After starting my truck the dash warning lights (oil, battery, brake, low fuel) stay lit and flicker for 20-30 seconds then go out with the exception of the battery light. It remains dimly lit for 2-3 minutes before finally going out. The battery and alternator have tested OK. I cleaned the battery ground connections andreplaced the check light relay. Still the same situation. '86 Nissan Hardbody Pickup ....
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I painted the senser on the dash black on the inside so the headlights stay on all the time. My question is the dash lights don't stay on all the time, I assumed they would with the headlights on and senser cover painted, drives me nuts with the dash lights coming on and off. How to make dash lights stay on.
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2010 ford f350 super heavy duty diesel...
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The Issue: Dash display reads "Passenger Door Ajar", interior lights stay on, drains battery
Current Fixes I've completed
Sprayed electrical cleaner in all 4 door latch assemblies (didn't work)
Relubricated all 4 door latch assemblies with food grade lithium grease (didn't work)
Replaced passenger door full latch assembly (didn't work)
What is my next step? I have noticed that if I wedge the door lock button on the driver's side door into the lock position, the door ajar message turns off and stays off? I was thinking wiring or relay issues?
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Having intermittent starting on Elantra 2013 Key start model ? After over-nite car will not crank only dash lights come on and on third try (after overhead lights out) it starts ok ? I measured my battery after 6 hrs at 35 degree F , I see 12.4 vlts and about 0.09a draw in main neg cable (car not running). Brand new battery on 2/17 - had same trouble when original battery was in . dealer says all electrical DTC ok Batt / alternator charging etc.
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Have a 2001 Prizm with 120k miles on it. Just had the recommended 120k service done a month or two ago (local shop that has been reliable to me) and they commented on how mechanically solid my car was.
Thursday drove to work like normal. When it was time to leave, car wouldn't start. No dash lights, nothing at all when I turned the key. Got a ride, came back later that night and jumped it and it started right up (didn't wait at all, but I also didn't check it before hooking up the cables - it might have started without a jump). Radio had reset and so forth, but it was running.
Drove Friday, it was fine. Car sat all weekend. Monday morning, dead as could be again. No dash lights when I put the key in, nothing when I turned it. Maybe a single click, but nothing more (can't remember for sure).
Drove wife's car to work. Came home Monday afternoon and the car started right up with no problem. Was curious if the battery voltage was low or anything, so I turned the car off, hooked up my bluetooth OBD reader (generic ELM 327 off ebay), and tried to start. Car was dead. Unplugged the reader, still nothing.
Took the battery out and ran to the store, assuming a bad or weak battery. They tested and said it's completely fine. Went back home, hooked it back up, car started right up. So now I'm suspecting something's up with the ELM327... I just got it last week, a few days before this all started. Had it hooked up all week long and didn't unplug it till the first time the car wouldn't start. Didn't plug it back in till Monday afternoon's issues.
Could a flaky OBD reader cause these kinds of issues? Anything else I should be checking, or do you think I'm ok as long as I toss out that reader? When I was using the reader last week, it seemed to be reading everything fine and sending the data over to my phone. When the car was dead each time, it acted like the battery was completely disconnected - radio reset, NO lights, etc. Could something with the OBD reader mess up the computer and make it act like that, and then a little time lets the computer reset or something?
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I just purchased a 2000 ford contour and it only has one major problem, the tail lights stay on after shutting off the engine and turning the lights off, you actually have to pull out the fuse to get them to turn off and then replace it before driving again, I looked through the owners manual and cod not find a solution. Also, the brake lights don't get brighter when you press the brakes, I'm not sure if that is part of the same problem or another issue entirely.
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I have Holden Rodeo, am assuming these are very similar cars if not the same. Our 2004 Rodeo is having intermittent trouble starting, sometimes when the key is turned it is dead, no clicking noise, all lights on dash are on and engine light flashing. it goes from being dead to a short turning of engine, eventually it will turn over but may have trouble firing. the next time it will start perfectly.
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2010 Prius with 85k miles. Went to start car and here is what I get. All lights on dash come on including emergency icons. When I depress brake to shift into gear lights on dash go dim but not out. Car does not go into gear and neither does it show it going into gear on display. Heater was on and I tried to shut off the fan and again no response. Very difficult to get it to shut off. Pushed off 3 or 4 times and it finally responded. Been cold here in the teens and car has not been used for 3 or 4 days. Everything has been fine up to this point. No problems with anything.
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Anti lock brake light and traction control light come on when starting car. 2000 Regal GSE - The anti-lock brake light and traction control light come on when starting car. This happens intermittently. The next time I start the car it doesn't come on. Then it will come on at a later time when starting the car. The car has 97000 miles.
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I need getting my Buick to start. It is a 1989 LeSabre Limited with a series 1 3800 engine. I only have spark on cylinders 3 and 6 (paired on ignition coil). I have run tests to see that I have that I have 12 volts to the ignition module, 12 volts out to the crank sensor, signals coming from the crank sensor. I pulled the coil pack and found that I only have a signal on the blue wire supplying 3 and 6. I don't get a signal on the green and yellow wires supplying the other 4 cylinders. My tests would indicate that the ICM is bad. I replaced the ICM and out of desperation the coil pack and I still have the exact same problem. I cleaned the aluminum surface to make sure I have an excellent ground.
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I have a 2000 Honda CRV, standard transmission. Within the last 2-3 months, I have had my battery, starter, and radiator replaced. Three times in the last month, I have turned my car on and the headlights and dashboard lights won't come on. However, the break lights, blinkers, and other interior lights come on. The first time, I shut the car off and left it over night and the lights all worked in the morning. The second time this happened, I just turned the car lights on and off a few times, and they came back on. When it happened this evening, I tried turning the car and the lights on and off, but no luck. I took the car to a mechanic after it happened the first time. He said that because it wasn't happening then, it would be really hard to diagnose.
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I have a 2002 Accent...Won't start....When I turn the key on...none of the idiot lights come on...It will turn over like crazy...but nothing....Have checked all fuses and relays... Then all of a sudden the lights will all come on and it starts...ran it for awhile drove it around a bit...shut it off...then tried to restart and it did...ok then 2 days later went to start it..and same thing...No idiot lights came on....and of course will not start..Someone mentioned to me it might be the ignition switch itself that might be causing the problem?
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I have a 2000 Kia Sportage and the dash lights and running/parking lights are not working. The 10 Amp fuse for the tail/running lights keeps blowing. What could be causing these problems on this year, make and model car and where I should look to find and fix the problem? I am trying to find and fix these problems as fast as I can, but I am not real sure as to where to even start looking.
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