LeSabre :: 1999 - Loud Grinding / Screeching Noise Stop When AC Turned Off?
Aug 11, 2015
1999 LeSabre 3800 Series 2. AC works fine, no noise when in use.
When AC is shut off , we hear this loud , screeching , grinding , wailing , scrunching, high pitched noise.
Not sure what to check? Should I apply a lube to the belt,pulley, etc ....
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I've been having this issue with my 2009 Toyota Corolla for some time now. When I turn the car on, there is a noise coming from under the hood that sounds like a screeching/grinding noise. I have captured the noise in this video: [URL] ....
It happens most times I turn my car on in the morning, after it has been sitting off and untouched for the night. When I am turning the car on afterwards throughout the day, the noise is less likely to appear.
I recently took my car in and got the water pump and belt replaced, because a few months ago I was driving down the highway and I heard a similar noise coming from under the hood, and I opened the hood and red coolant liquid was splashed everywhere. I am not knowledgeable about cars at all, but the dealership replaced the water pump and the belt and that seemed to fix that issue, but the grinding noise upon ignition is still there.
I took it into the dealership, but they were not able to replicate the issue because it had not been the first time the car was turned on for the day, so there was no grinding noise. I would like to know if it is the water pump or belt, since those are still under a 2 year warranty with the dealership. Otherwise, I need to know what this is so I can get it fixed.
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I have an '02 Chevy Cavalier. It was making a screeching noise when I turn for a while and now has started making a loud rythmic clunking noise all the time when the car is turned on. It gets louder and softer but never goes away. It is coming from the engine area.
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Noticed this morning that the truck appears to have a screeching/grinding noise while going straight down the road. If I go a bit of speed and stop the engine and exhaust from revving and making noise and just let it roll I can hear it and hear it better by sticking my head out my window. My engine and 5" straight pipe hide it well while im going though. I think its coming from my front driver side but im not 100% exactly sure. What it could be? I know there are a lot of variables to cover but any ways to check things out? Also! I can hear it slightly while reversing slowly.
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I have an 04 F250 6.0L and for the last month or so when I turn on my AC it makes a high screetching noise but only last for a little bit. Had a friend that works on cars on the side take a look at it one day and he said it was the AC cutch trying to engage. Does this sound like what it could be? Also if it is can it be changed out without having to remove the compressor? What all is involved in changing it out?
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I have an issue with the 02 1.8t (wife has an issue). We recently took our car in to get some service work done and the mechanic informed me that he thinks the tranny is starting to go and just baby it....Fast forward a month the wife is driving the car, she said at around 40mph 2k RPM and the RPMs just drop after hearing a screeching/grinding noise....
Then she tried to apply throttle and it redlined...She said it would shoot up in RPM and not go over 30mph, she used the triptonic to get home and was able to get up to 45..Sat for a bit and I drove it, everything seemed ok..Shifts good, stops fine, no weird noises, etc....
Car is a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/ 148k miles, regularly maintained, never had tranny oil flushed..
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My wife's 2009 Tiguan has 72k miles and is a pretty good commuter. But it has been hot here in Texas, which may have attributed to this problem.
After about 5 minutes of idling, there is a loud screeching noise.
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When I turn my car on in the morning there is a really loud screeching noise coming from the car....It might be one of the belts. It does it for about 10-15 seconds and then it goes away and It doesn't come back until I let the car sit for a while and turn it on again... What it is?
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My jetta started making a loud screeching noise on initial start up, it only last a split second and sometimes it doesn't do it, I read it maybe my bushings need greased, but I didn't know if maybe it was something to do with my flywheel bc with my window down and at idle I can hear a faint tapping noise, I push the clutch in the noise goes away, car starts up fine with no hesitation and also shifts smooth...
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My car - a 2007 4 cylinder Hyundai Sonata - is making loud screeching sound more than occasionally but not all the time at high rates of speed (70 - 75 mph) and ESPECIALLY when I am exiting the highway to go to the train station and I turn to the left on the exit ramp. Never the right - only the left, and it stops immediately when I touch the brakes.
About 6 weeks ago, I had 4 new tires put on, and thought maybe they were not installed properly. I saw a mechanic today who put it up on the lift and said everything looks in good order and he could not find anything wrong with the driver's side front wheel, which is where it sounds like the noise is coming from. Of course, when we drove around in it, there was no noise. In fact, after I dropped him off and went to the train station it DID make the noise, so I turned around, picked him up and drove back exactly the same way - no noise.
It is a very, very loud uninterrupted screeching sound.
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I have a 2002 Volvo S40. I have recently noticed a very loud screeching noise while driving. It sounds like metal on metal, and it stops when I push the brakes. Any thoughts on what this might be? It sounds like it is coming from the front right tire. I also have heard rattling up there for a while (sounds like something is loose) but my mechanic was not able to find anything with this. I also have issues with my head lights. They go out about every other month and need to be replaced.
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Everything might be a slight exaggeration. But fuse 14 covers Backup lamp and day time running lights relay coil, A/C Pressure Switch, Redundant Speed Control, Heated PCV (5.4L), Trailer Tow back-up lamps, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror.
This is a 2006. 4.6L V8, SCREW. I don't have reverse park aid. When the fuse blows there is a loud screeching noise from under the hood. Can't identify it because the fuse wont go while I am sitting idling in the driveway. The parking break i9ndicator comes on, the ABS indicator comes on, Cruise control goes away and the A/C quits cooling but still blows. I assume EC Mirror means Electronic Compass Mirror. So I need to figure out where the short is.
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This started yesterday. A Loud grinding type noise from the top of the engine. As soon as I touch the throttle the noise goes away. I checked the pulleys and TC and everything checks out. Sounds like it's coming from the HPOP gear area like a gear train noise. Maybe the additional oil pressure has something to do with the HPOP inside getting quiet.
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I'm having issues with very loud screeching noises on my 08 awd. Sounds like a garbage truck. Lexus said its $625 to replace brake pads and rotors to stop the noise. I'm not really a fan of DIY so is that a fair price for the parts and labor or should I bring it somewhere else?
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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I hear a loud screeching noise (like a loose belt) when the 2009 Corolla starts cold. It disappears and when the car gets a little warmer, it's gone. I had the belt replaced, made no difference. Car runs fine, otherwise.
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Very loud timing chain noise in my Mitsubishi 2.6 engine. It has 105k miles on it. I ordered a new complete timing chain kit and oil pump from an online autoparts store. The parts arrived here and scheduled an appointment to have those parts put in today. While driving the van to the repair shop, it broke down about 4 miles from my house. I started to lose power on the highway then a loud screeching noise, similar sound to a belt going bad or slipping. The temp gauge started to climb rapidly. I immediately shut off the van and pulled over. It was towed back home and wouldn't restart. Battery was weak. I charged the battery for three hours and the van started again. This time it runs incredibly rough. The whole van shakes badly when in gear (also the loud timing chain noise). I also noticed an oil leak on the ground on the passenger side, in the area of the timing chain/oil pump area.
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1987 Buick LeSabre V6 w/automatic transmission. Suddenly getting a fairly loud "knock" from somewhere in the engine area. Only present at low rpm or idle, goes away at higher rpm's. Does not seem to be related to vehicle movement. "May" change some with gear shifting but can not really tell. Oil is full and no "idiot" light warning. Timing belt recently changed. Car seems to run fine, just making noise. Any clues???
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As I begin to accelerate a humming sound from the front of the car begins. The noise becomes more pronounced the faster I go. No additional noise is made when I brake or turn, nor does it appear to be any noise when I went in reverse. I made a 180 mile trip on Sunday with no problems, although I did travel at closer to 55mph than 65. The car has 170,000 miles on it and has had most of its scheduled maintenance performed.
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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Every once in a while, while driving my 06 350 SRW at slow speeds, I hear a grinding noise coming from the left side of the truck. It is almost like a winding grinding noise if that makes sense. It will grind slow to a stop, and then I hear a clunk.
This is a very intermittent problem. The tires are completely shot on the truck, and I thought that would be it, but considering it is intermittent and the clunk I hear as I come to a stop I figured it could be it.
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