LeSabre :: 1998 - Security Function In Car Gets Tripped When It Rains
Jul 9, 2015
I have been having issues with a security malfunction in my car. Every great once in a while, most of the time when it rains, my security function in my car gets tripped and I am unable to start my car. The security light on my dash lights up and I have to wait 5-10 minutes for it to go off before I can start my car. I'm sure it's just a bad fuse but it can be very inconvenient sometimes and make me late for work! Where to even begin to look and I'm afraid if I start pulling wires that I might get locked out of my car completely.
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My 2008 Camry XLE(No after market systems) has locked out my dad several times now when he's parked and left the vehicle. We replaced his keyless remote dongle battery with a new one just in case. The light that blinks a red key on the dash to indicate the key is nearby turns solid red. I've yet to be the one locked out, but can't imagine what he'd do to lock it out as he's mechanically and electronically savvy. Can't reproduce the problem.
The only way we can get it to unlock the inhibitor is to jump the car battery. The dealer claims that we should only have to walk away from the vehicle out of range of the remote and back into range for the inhibitor to "untrip". I don't believe them because we replaced the car battery one time and it tripped the system and we had to get a jump even then to unlock it.
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My wife stopped at a local store(car running tip top as usual)turned off the car. As she came out of the store after about 20 mins. NO START! Security light is flashing all interior lights,radio etc work but NO headlights and if you turn signal it blinks real fast like a bulb out condition! The fuel pump does its prime up etc. NO CRANK,after say 15 seconds security light goes out,still NO CRANK!I did 10 minute reprogram(key in accy for 10-20 min) -no change!I also tried the valet key!NO GO!!!
I know GM had a few security problems but I have been out of the mechanic loop since losing the use of my legs!
2001 Buick Lesabre
6cyl automatic
155,000 miles
passkey 3 with transponder on outer ignition ring
battery is new and loads out fine
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My buick has a weird problem, basically it wont start the security light comes on, nothing and i mean absolutely nothing works inside of the car and the power window circuit breaker under the back seat is burning hot, obviously its an electrical problem but I am thinking its the body control module but I want to be sure .... what it could be?
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Every once-in-a-while I've noticed a "security" light is illuminated on my dash-board. When this happens, I can't start my 92' Buick LeSabre for about 5-minutes or so. Aggravating, to say the least. Is there something I can do? Including "disabling" it?
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My mother has the code to the radio, but when she was entering it she did it wrong. It now says "2 SAFE" or something similar and won't allow any other info entry. We even disconnected the power again and it still says the same thing. How do yo uget it baack to the point of allowing the 4 digit code to be entered?
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Where is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
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My '98 Buick's AC works well when I take it to a mechanic. But when I leave after they say, 'it seems fine now,' a few miles later the cold air starts blowing through the defroster vents, still nice and cold. Then it comes back down to the dash and then goes back up to the defrost. But sometimes it stops blowing altogether, it doesn't blow anywhere! Nothing, not even warm air. And then later everything is fine again, until it happens all over again and I take it to another shop when I hear 'it seems fine now.'.
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My wife's 98 LeSabre will occasionally cut out or stall. It usually happens at low speeds and she thinks it may be more frequently on a right hand turn. The engine can always be restarted immediately. There is no other symptom, no check engine light on when running. The car runs well and has ~125000 miles. Sounds like an intermittent connection or short but where?
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I have a 1998 Buick lesaber it ran hot the other day [temp light came on] do I pulled in to gastation and the overflow tank was empty I filled it to the hot line and ran it for a few minutes light went off drove 8 blocks to my house let it cool down and opens the radiator cap no coolant. I checked the overflow tank empty too. So I got some coolant from my garage and poured it into the radiator as I was pouring it started to leak out somewhere on the upper passenger side of the engine under the plastic noise cover and behind the pulleys. This happened while the car was not running. It's my family's only car so I can't tear it apart until the weekend but where to start or what parts to have on hand.
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I am currently driving a 98 Buick with the 3.8 V6 and 120,000 on the clock. The car runs 100%, and its paid for
My problem is I seem to be losing coolant, at the rate of about the entire overflow in 2 weeks (I only drive on avg 15-20 miles a day). The problem is I have no leaks. I even went so far as to pull the spark plugs and they all looked good (none of them looked "steam cleaned"). I put florescent dye into the rad, and I can’t find a drop of coolant anywhere. The intake gaskets have already been done on this car, and I triple checked around it with the die.
Rad, and hoses all check out, no dye in the oil, no dye at the heater core/AC drain under the car, the core plugs are fine, around the head gaskets seem fine as well.. I CANT FIGURE THIS OUT !! I am 100% losing coolant, but I can’t find hide nor hair of it..
I know I can keep adding coolant, but I like my cars as leak free as possible and if it is something bad, I want to know about it now not later.
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My dad has a 98 Buick La Sabre that will shut off at times. It once shut off as he was turning on the air cond. last summer. Right after it stalled and would not start he attempted to open the windows but they would not work. After a few hours and cooling off it started and the windows worked again. He took it to a shop who said it was the map sensor. They changed it but the problem happened again a few weeks after. The fuel pump has recently been changed along with the fuel filter.
One mechanic suggested it could be the ignition control modular or knock sensor. He recently got a different car so I an going to test drive it for a while. If it shuts down I will test for spark to confirm it is not a fuel problem. I will also try swooping relays to see if that is not the problem. I will be cleaning all the connections I can find with contact cleaner as it can't hurt.
What could be the problem. Could it be a short, a bad wire that once it gets to much of a load on it cuts the engine off?
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Engine light won't go off - printout says it's running lean - replaced mass airflow sensor, upper & lower O2 sensors, spark plugs, wires and coils. What else I need to do to get the light to go out so it'll pass inspection?
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I am having problems with with the rear defroster and the a/c in my '98 Buick Lesabre, they went out at the same time, and I checked the fuses in the fuse box, and the meter says they are all good, the fan motor isn't running either, and I think that they are all tied together.
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I have a '98 Buick LeSabre, 112,000 miles and it's white. When I put the ignition key in and turn it without starting it completely I get a humming noise coming from the rear of the car. It lasts about 5 seconds and stops. When I start the car it begins again and continues all the time I'm driving. A friend suggested it might be the fuel pump.
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So had some new shoes but on the car, but the next day after having them installed the air pressure sensor tripped. Anyway i can somehow reset this without a (sigh) trip to the dealer? By the way, yes, I did check the air pressure levels and they are spot on.
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I have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
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I'll preface by saying, my technical know how ends with swapping out lights. I'm sure this is an easy fix, but not sure where to look first. I recently got a pair of smoked out taillights and 3rd brake light and installed the tails..................easy job. Finally climbed up on the back to swap out the 3rd.............lights worked before I disconnected. Connected the new one, no go, so figured, I bet bulbs are out. Plugged original back in, no lights. Figuring I tripped a fuse somewhere.................any tips finding the right fuse?
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My Saturn Ion Quad leaks bad when it rains. GM did something a couple of years ago but that didn't last.
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I have two Camrys, A 1993 and 2001. Both cars have 4 cylinder and automatic transmissions. When ever it rains heavy and I am on a highway or fast moving road 45 mph or better. I hit a groove on the road that splashes water under my car. Then I get a rumble from underneath my car as I drive the rumble gets less and less as to water got wet seems to be drying out. Until I hit another groove and splash water under my car again. Both of my cars do this. Is it the cat getting wet (if not what is it then) and if so what can be done to correct this.
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Do the wet boots make a clicking/rubbing type noise when turning on your car? It happen on my 2012 GTI, but only when it rains. It's really loud when I turn inside a parking garage. It's definitely not the joint itself, but rather is the rubber boot sticking to itself and releasing on the compressed side of the boot during the turn. No other car of mine has made this type of noise, even those with cheap Chinese aftermarket axles.
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