I recently noticed that after starting my wife's 95 LeSabre (82k mi), there is a twang sound after the starter disengages and slows down to a stop.
What I am trying to find out is if this is inductive of imminent failure, or is it likely I might get quite a bit more use out of the starter before it fails?
Ok, here another brain buster that I cant let go a minute longer(i'll explain later). I just got back inside from replacing the starter in my 02'' VW Jetta tdi. The starter is for a 97" VW passat TDI manual. A little over a year ago, I had my auto transmission swapped with a manual passat so its the right starter. Regardless, i just replaced the starter and and upon start up the starter is making a WWW ZZZing sound after start up.
I've been down this road before, its partially the reason for the swap in transmission. About three years back i replaced a starter on the original trans and this familiar sound was present after start up. During the course of a year i went thru 3 starters and and they eventually ate my fly wheel. By that time the trans was starting to grind when it downshifts from 2nd to 1st. not all; three four replacement starter made this sound.
Having transmission problems? Everything I've read before says these transmissions are better than gm Allison's and they can handle up to 600 horse before you gotta worry about beefing them up but mines starting to act funny.
How important is the transmission tune? My truck it's tuned with the spe hot tune and trans tune. Didn't like the way it clunk bang hard shifts though so I ran factory trans tune for a while but it felt very soft like it was slipping when I got after it on the performance setting of spe hot so I went back to spe trans file.
I get a little twang sound that sounds like it's coming from the trans between 3-4 gear shifts, initially only heard it after getting on it hard in performance but it's getting worse and happens on stock power level under light acceleration now sometimes. Also I lost all gears briefly and it wouldn't shift into manual at all when I stopped to turn around the other day.
Working fine in drive but when I shifted out to reverse it had nothing in any gear and manual wouldn't light up on the display. I shut it off and restarted the engine and it came back and worked fine after that but not sure what happened there, don't think it's good though. Did using the stock transmission file with the hot engine tune or the hard clunk bang custom trans file up my trans, freak malfunction?
All of a sudden, the brakes (rear) are making a rubbing sound. Could it somehow be caused by dust? The car is parked on the street and it's been VERY dry here lately. When I used the car a few days ago, they sounded fine. Reason to bring it to our mechanic or not? It's a 1995 Chrysler Concorde.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1995 volvo 850 t5. Basically, the engine is making a clicking sound. Immediately on start up, which continues when i drive. In saying that, I've been only doing 5 minute drives so perhaps its not running long enough to go away.
So today, i started it. Car starts ticking. The ticking is like 3 or 4 seconds apart between clicks, and the idle seems to change slightly each time it clicks.
I checked the oil and it was a little low. So i put 2 litres in, and then i ran the car (idling) to see if it would go away. Just for a few minutes. It did seem to go away, but then i gave it a little rev and it came back.
So in summary, clicks on start, idle and while driving. Idle changes slightly between clicks. And there is a few seconds between clicks.
Just checked it again. If i leave it idling the click stops but as soon as there are more revs, it comes back. And the noise is almost like the click of a switch (like when your kettle finishes boiling and the switch flicks off. Not the best comparison but similar).
I have a 1995 buick Lasbre and my engine light is on my car would cut off every once and a while. but when it does it cranks right back up like its a sortage in the wires people say it is an electrical problem i thought it was my crank sensor but my car has never had a problem cranking up it sounds wonderful when it cranks up so whats my problem....
View 3 RepliesWhere is the PCV valve is located?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 Buick LeSabre with just over 100,000 miles on it. Recently it has begun to shake at low speeds. The car shakes as if it were driving over a rough gravel road, and makes a sort of chugging noise when I step on the accelerator at speeds from 15-25 miles per hour. When I accelerate beyond 25, the shaking stops, and the car stops making the chugging noise as well. It drives beautifully on the interstate, but horribly when I am in town. After taking the car for a drive on the interstate for about 30 minutes one day, the shaking at low speeds actually ceased for over a week, but then came back. The "check engine" light has not come on. I maintain the car regularly, getting oil and filters changed, fluids filled, etc. I'm wondering if this sounds like it could be caused by a problem I can fix myself, or if I need to have the car looked at by a professional.
View 2 Repliesmy 1995 buick lasbre cuts on fine and drive ok but when i start it as soon as i turn and drive itcuts off but after it cuts right back on and drive ok
View 3 RepliesI'm driving a 95 buick lesabre, good condition, clean, 130k miles on it. 2 months ago the car started stalling and then it died. Took it to a shop, replaced all original fuel pump and fuel lines. Repeat this about 3 more times, all in all, the fuel pump, fuel lines, map sensor, mass airflow sensor have been replaced. Yesterday, the same thing happened. Took it to a different mechanic, he says he drove it for two days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Is there anything specific in a 95 lesabre that could be causing this? It drives fine for a while, and then out of nowhere it starts to stall, then the car dies and check engine light comes on. Gas is kept above half a tank due to winter conditions and the fact that it's an old car.
View 8 RepliesI seem to lose power steering pressure when I hold the wheel in a turn. It is only temporary as it cycles until I release the turn. I happens turning in both directions and a any speed. I have replaced the struts and strut mounts and have rotated the tires. The power steering fluid quantity is good with no leaks.1995 Buick Lesabre.
View 2 RepliesMy 1995 buick lasabre cuts on fine and drive ok but when i start it and barley drive or turn it cuts off but after it cuts right back on and drive...
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1995 Buick LeSabre that has a curious problem with the air conditioner. The AC blows good and cold, but when I accelerate the air stops blowing from the vents. I can still hear the fan running, so it's like the air is being redirected somewhere. Now, once I get up to speed after accelerating, if I let off the accelerator for a second, the AC resumes blowing normally.
View 5 RepliesMy 1995 Buick Lesabre will intermittently drain the battery after sitting for about 12 hours. It is unpredictable. The battery was newly installed in December, 2010 and the alternator was tested at that time and about three weeks ago and proved to be recharging properly. This battery kill happens even when there is no visible sign of current usage, such as a dome light being left on. What I should look for in order to to find the source of the current drain?
View 2 Replies95 Buick Lesabre 3.8L. After replacing a broken 6" swaybar strut on the driver's side I noticed a clunking when hitting bumps on the passenger's side. (These sizes are approximate). There is a large thick 2ft long by 4"wide bar behind the front passenger wheel. The bar has 2 large bushings on both ends. The bushings are about 2 1/2" wide. The rubber bushings and support screws or rods are loose. I suspect that this is a piece of subframe. Autozone said that they cannot get the replacement bushings. Where do I get these bushings and should I look for anything else that may be damaged or worn out?
View 1 RepliesMy 1995 LeSabre (3800 v6, 62K miles) has a stalling problem, no engine power, but still has electric. It happens randomly and intermittently. Most times it will restart but has been increasingly difficult to restart. The only indicator prior to stalling is the speedometer "surges" and then the loss of power. Dash lights come on (oil, voltage, CEL). Sometimes the CEL will flash in time with a fast clicking that I believe comes from the fuel pump relay under the right side of the dash. Until this clicking stops the engine will not restart. I have replaced ignition control module, and then the crank and cam sensors. Replaced PCM with rebuilt and it was worse (defective?) and put the old one back in. Mechanic can't find any codes to determine what is causing it to stall, except possibly PCM is bad.
View 11 RepliesI recently replaced the head gasket on a 95 Geo Prizm. Now when I tried to start it, all I get is the starter clicking. I tried tapping the starter solenoid, to no effect. The only electrical that I messed with during the head gasket replacement was to disconnect the battery.
View 4 RepliesThe car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 Nissan Maxima. The starter will not engage (no noise at all) when the outside temperature is below 60 degrees. All of the electrical is functional, but when I turn on the starter, there is no click sound or any indication that the starter attempted to engage. The car is a manual transmission, so I push start the car, and there is no squeal when the car starts so the starter gear was not touching the flywheel. Above 60 degrees, everything works normally. I have replaced the starter motor and solenoid, replaced the battery, but the problem persists.
View 5 RepliesJumped small wire on starter straight to battery and started right up, the starter kept running until I pulled the jumper off. Starter relay? Ignition switch?
What ever it was it must have knocked it loose because I put the small wire back on the starter and it fired right up. Crazy thing.
I was driving down the highway when I had this loud bang and twang, after inspecting the car I realized it was the left rear seat belt that was broken. The seat belt fails to retract and cannot be pulled. I'm guessing the retractor is the fault.
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