LeSabre :: 1990 Buick Won't Restart After Shut It Off - Motor Warms Up
Jun 10, 2014
I have a 1990 buick lesabre motor is a 3800 and it runs fine until the motor warms up and then when i shut it off it won't restart for about an hour after i shut it off. It's not over heating it has a new fuel pump.
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we just replaced the intake manifold and also put on new spark plug wires and plugs. now the engine is missing but only after it warms up. i double checked all the wires and connections and they looked good. is there something obvious that i should look at since it is still doing it?
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My son's car overheated yesterday due to a sudden crack in the radiator. He had it towed to me. There was no evidence of a blown head gasket or cracked block, so I replaced the radiator. Since the battery was dead, I put the charger on it. When I did that, the heater/AC fan began to blow. The only way I could get it to stop was to disconnect the battery. Even the ignition switch had no bearing on the fan.
I do not know if the overheating and this problem are related. It may be just a coincidence, but it is odd.
This car has a slide to regulate the blower speed. It is not one of those "Select a temp" automatic ones. It will blow cold air out the AC vents when AC is selected, but when the OFF button is selected ambient air goes to the DEFROST vents.
I suspect a relay is stuck, but what relay, and where is it located?
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I have a 1995 Buick Lesabre. The car jerks while I am driving or when idle as if it wants to shut off. Sometimes it jerks and then the check engine light comes on. When I described the problem to my mechanic he said that it might have been the fuel filter but then he said it might be an electrical problem. I would like to start with the fuel filter to see if that would work but I am not a mechanic nor am I an expert on cars nor do I want to spend tons of money on such an old car.
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I had this problem a few times in the past. Sometimes my 1992 Buick Century will shut off for no apparent reason while idling. When I restart it, the engine will race for a few seconds before slowing down to normal idle speed. Could this be caused by a glitch in the car's computer?
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The problem began with the battery going down slowly while the car sat. Then the blower motor wouldn't shut off, even with the key turned off. With the blower motor disconnected, the battery no longer discharges. I bought and installed a (used) climate control panel but the problem persists. I'm not sure where to go from here.
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My 90 lumina euro 3.1 has idle surge after it warms up. fluctuates between 600 and 1200 rpm when in drive. When you first get on the throttle it wants to die. Once you get past that it runs smooth while driving. Ive also notice that it tries to "buck" when its at lower rpm and barely on the throttle while pulling.
I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks, has recient tuneup, had a egr code and that has been replaced. I've cleaned the throttle body also. Previous owner had intake gaskets replaced as well as fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump.
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My fathers 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 Pickup Truck 4.3L runs fine when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts running rough then stalls and won't start. There is no spark when it dies. As soon as it cools off it starts back up and runs fine till it warms back up.
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I have recently noticed that my car will stall out when I get up to about 20 mph. My car starts fine, no check engine light on. I has a tendency to just die in the middle of the road at times too. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new fuel filter. Do I need to change the mass air flow sensor? Or the crank position sensor? I have no problems starting the car either. Runs good when it runs.
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Car has 252k miles runs ruff after engine warms up, looses power, if I give more gas, car will sputter, but rev up to 5k engine smoothes out. This situation constantly comes and goes.
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1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica that won't seem to start after I've driven it awhile. After sitting, it takes around 4 or 5 hours for it to start again (although this is highly variable). The first start of the day is always normal. Recently it will stall at idle, then have trouble starting up. The engine seems to "try harder" to start if I press the gas.
The weird thing is that I was able to start it up easily today by popping the clutch. This has been a problem I've been struggling with for a few months, and over that time I have replaced the starter, battery, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, and EFI/Main Engine relays. It always cranks, just no start.
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Where is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
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1996 buick lesabre custom 3800. The car stalls from time to time, and the fuel pump, power windows, power seats, and power mirrors all stop working. Most people who have had this problem cleaned the ground bus on the drivers side under the carpet. I have done this, and the car has not stalled yet, but I haven't driven it far because I have noticed the fuel pump relay and power windows relay are getting extremely hot to the touch after 5 minutes or so of driving. Why these relays are getting so hot? I cannot afford to keep getting the car towed home.
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My 2001 Buick Lesabre has always shown to run exactly normal on the temperature dash unit until recently. I checked my coolant level and it was a bit low, so I added. After I filled the radiator I have noticed a coolant leak spot on my driveway, after I drive it now. I have removed the gravel shield and have tried to pin point exactly where the leak is coming from, but cannot. Now, each time I park, after driving it, I put a clean piece of cardboard under it to try to see exactly what area the leak is coming from. Last night I put the car on ramps and crawled under to discover that the leak is located just above the oil filter and is actually dripping from the oil filter, but I still cannot see the exact location of the leak.Actually the leak does not appear until about an hour after I park the car, so it sounds like something is contracting after the engine has cooled off, but what? The leak has seemed to be getting worse each time I drive the car. How can I determine exactly where the leak is coming from without just changing a bunch of parts.
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I currently have no brake fluid in my car because it keeps leaking out (leaks while actively being used). The leak is between the power brake booster and the brake master cylinder... Is there any type of gasket I can get to better fill the gap between the two pieces of metal? Is there some way to tell which of the two pieces is creating the leak to narrow down which to purchase?
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My car would not start yesterday, and I realized the fuel pump was not running. So I bought a new fuel pump today and put it on, the car still won't start, the fuel pump still does not run and I have been told to check the relay. I cannot find the relay for this car.
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I have a 1995 buick Lasbre and my engine light is on my car would cut off every once and a while. but when it does it cranks right back up like its a sortage in the wires people say it is an electrical problem i thought it was my crank sensor but my car has never had a problem cranking up it sounds wonderful when it cranks up so whats my problem....
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My '98 Buick's AC works well when I take it to a mechanic. But when I leave after they say, 'it seems fine now,' a few miles later the cold air starts blowing through the defroster vents, still nice and cold. Then it comes back down to the dash and then goes back up to the defrost. But sometimes it stops blowing altogether, it doesn't blow anywhere! Nothing, not even warm air. And then later everything is fine again, until it happens all over again and I take it to another shop when I hear 'it seems fine now.'.
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I have been to a few different repair shops for my 2000 Buick Le Sabre shimmy problem with no luck. I have a really bad shimmy, while accelerating between 45 and 50 mph, and it seems worse on an upgrade. Past 50 mph, it smooths out. Over the past several months, mechanics have checked the balance of my tires and rotated them, done front end alignment, rear alignment, replaced the right lower control arm, the right sway bar link and the right wheel hub. Still no luck, so it came down to the determination that it must be a bad tire. Now I have 4 new tires (it was soon time to get them anyway), and I still have the shimmy. What else can we look for? My local mechanics seems stumped. I have not taken it to a Buick dealership, however...
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Driving my car over the week-end and experienced a lot of hesitation when I stepped on the gas. The car seemed to delay in kicking in to the next gear.I stopped and checked my transmission oil and realized I didn't have much transmission fluid, practically none. So, I added a quart. My question is what should I do now. I know it probably doesn't have enough but I don't know how much to put in. Or should I just have it changed?
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