LS / MKZ :: V8 Starts Then Shuts Off After A Few Seconds
Sep 19, 2008
Just finished putting a hydraulic cooling fan on my wife's 01 LS V8 when I try to start it , it starts then shuts off after a few seconds. Do I need to reset the computer? If I do, how do I do it.
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How do you warm up? I turn it on and it might start the engine for a few seconds then shut off... How do I know it's ready and warm?
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Whenever it is really cold, o degrees or colder and i use my remote starter, my 2011 Prius starts for about 1-2 seconds and then shuts down. If go into the car and manually start it stays running with no problems. yesterday i tried remote starting it after about 5 hours sitting in -15 degree temperatures and it worked fine but that was after i already manually started it in the morning cause the remote starter didn't work. Why this is happening? it goes against the whole purpose of having a remote starter.
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Car starts runs rough for a few seconds then shuts off (spark plugs and 2 coils were replaced a few months ago). Coolant reservoir level was way low so I filled to the full line, kept the cap off to cycle. During the time the car starts, the coolant from the reservoir violently "boils" over (out of the reservoir). Huge amount of white smoke from the rear exhaust and a burning smell.
Used Techstream and got the following codes:
Engine and ECT: P0117, P0302, P3190, P3191
Hybrid Control: P0A0F
Intermittently get misfile codes but this time around they did not return.
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I have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
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I recently put this kit in my vehicle about three weeks ago I purchased off ebay. It is a fog light kit which came with 8000K HID. Yesterday it was raining really hard then I noticed my front passenger HID fog light went out. It went out for about 5 hours. When I put the HID fogs on, it comes on for .5 seconds then shuts off. Then later in the night it started working again. Do you know why this must be? The driver side had been working fine all the time, it's just the passenger side. Could it be the HID kit could be cheap? It's working again...but I don't really want that to happen. I'm planning to take off the bumper to take a look at it this week. Thinking if I should just get buy a new HID kit....
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My car starts up and it runs for about 5-10 min and then shuts off. then it will not start again while it is hot, if i leave it sit overnight then it will start again but the same problem will occur. the engine also has a misfire from the moment i start it up, how to diagnose this problem. And after you diagnose it can you tell me ways i can check the problems. for example if you say its the fuel pump tell me how to check to see if my pump is working.
Country: United States
Make: Toyota
Model: Celica GTS
Year: 2000
Engine: 2zzge
Already Tried: Here's what I've done to my car recently: I have new engine coils, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new thermostat. I got my fuel injectors cleaned, new mass airflow sensor, new water pump.
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Recently had BCM issues, a lot of corrosion in it, so I bought a new one connected it, let the key stay in the ON position for 15 minutes for it to relearn. It had been running beautifully until today. I go to start the car and it starts up then shuts off right away. Well at this time I'm in a parking lot with no where to go so I sit there and try the relearn thing again, didnt work. I happened to still have some electrical cleaner in the car so I sprayed out the key hole and key, removing all the junk I could. Nothing.
I unplug battery and reconnect BCM. Boom starts up. Drive it home and go back out a couple hours later to start it again. Does the same damn thing, starts up and dies. Security system light is on so I do the relearn again, nothing. Unplug the battery only this time and it starts fine, but dies on second try. Do I get a new ignition switch? Every time I unhook battery it starts up first try but nothing after that. Security system is over riding everything. I don't want to sink too much money in to this car seeing as it has 222k miles, time for a new one, just not quite ready yet.
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-6 degrees this morning. Drive to class fine, come out afterwards to my remote being dead. I popped off the cover to the door handle and unlock the car....alarm goes off. Try to start the car and MFD says key not recognized...it starts but shuts off after a second. How to separate the key without tools? I can't seem to pull it apart.by hand like the old Mk4s.
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What could be causing my radio to shut down after five seconds? If it was the fuse, it wouldn't come on at all. I suspect the amp/power supply. What else could it be? I think all of my radio stations have been reset too. 2009 Hyundai Tucson.....
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So my 2006 toyota tacoma prerunner v6 was working fine i could drive it a bit but after i changed the drive belt it starts and shuts off after 3-4 seconds. if you accelerate immediately after you turn it on then it wont stop till you stop accelerating...
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06/2003 Touareg V8 Driver side fuel pump shut off after 15-20 sec after start is that normal? I know that the passenger side is stuck and needs to be replaced but just wanting to be sure that the driver side pump is supposed to act like this.
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Left my 2002 SF 2.4 with someone to replace clutch. Calls me after the job to say it doesn't run!
Codes P0100 and P0340.
Maf is new. I had a Cam sensor in stock. Nil fix.
Have changed out recently;
Fuel Pump
Coil packs
CPS
MAF
and just now, the Cam sensor.
It starts right up then shuts off, does not slowly sputter and die.
I asked him to go over the wires and connectors. He could have stressed a cable while pulling the tranny. I do have the old MAF that I could try, but doubtful it would fail at the same time as a clutch job. Now wishing I had done the clutch myself!
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When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
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I have a '08 uplander. transmission & alternator installed within the last 6wks. battery purchased xmas 2010. car starts goes a few blocks then shuts down. Looking to alleviating this problem?
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So im driving home and i realize one of my headlights are out. I get home and turn them and turn them back on and the headlight turns very dim for a couple of seconds, and then shuts off. What this could be? Ballast or Bulb. I have major modifications done to the wheels wells to fit the wheels, so i don't want to take it to the dealer.
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(2011 Golf TDI) ... When I shut off the car there is a sort of high-pitched whine/hum that continues for a few seconds after the car shuts off. Sort of sounds like it's from the front of the car somewhere. What is it?
I'm not normally concerned by the noise itself as it sounds entirely intentional like something is intended to run for a few seconds, but this morning the whine was punctuated with a few random scratchy/scraping sounds. Ruh roh?! Do I need to be worried about something about to fail?
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I'm having this issue with my 2002 camry, but it won't start, so i can take it to a mechanic, and a house call is too expensive.
The car starts at almost 3000 rpm for a few seconds then white smoke starts coming out of the front and back... the front seems to be from the front catalytic converter . Then the car starts stalling and finally shuts off
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Over the past couple months my car (187k miles on it) shuts off while I'm driving it, about once a week, sometimes less. It only seems to happen while driving 30 mph or less and starts back up after 5-10 min. I'm trying to sell it now and don't know how to explain what is going on with the car w/o putting someone off completely. I'm sure it's fixable, I just don't want to deal w/it anymore and need a larger vehicle.
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When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
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A couple of months ago my daughter's Sebring engine began shutting off immediately after starting. We brought the car to my usually reliable mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong. The problem became more frequent (every 2 to 3 starts) and we brought it back to my mechanic who determined it was the car's computer system. $1700 later the car is ready to be picked up, my daughter gets it after the shop is closed, and it wouldn't start! She left it there, got a ride, and, one week later the Sebring is still at the mechanic's. They told us it starts every time for them and they don't see any problem. After researching on the Internet I thought it might have something to do with the immobilizer but they told me that tested fine. I'm at a loss over what to do.
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