LS / MKZ :: V8 - Starter Spin But Car Will Not Run
Aug 13, 2012
I am back with the same issue as the last 2 batteries. Ever since the wife has had this car, the last 2 batteries would spin the starter, but it wouldn't run. Bought batteries and it fixed it.
But damn, now her battery is only 13 months old. Is it true that if the battery gets just week enough that the motor is starved for enough juice for it to run?
Last dealer couldn't figure out why she needed a battery when the one she replaced was good. I told them do it anyway, and it worked, last year.
She called the dealer today and their saying its the alternator is pulling it down. I say BS. Its not a dead battery, its a temperamental motor, I guess. I dont know what to do. This is getting old.
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Came home from a trip and the Santa Fe had been parked for 3 days. No starting issues prior, but went to move it and no go. When I turn the keys something "spins" but the starter does not engage. 99% sure it needs replaced. 02 GLS V6 AWD
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
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My starter motor in my 2004 Golf 2.0 doesn't engage or spin when it is very cold. By very cold, I mean below 5F.
The battery has plenty of juice, and jumping the battery doesn't work. I turn the key to "start" and nothing happens. When key is in the on position, fans, wipers, etc all work fine. When the car warms up to 20F or so, everything is fine and the car starts.
Here's the funny thing. If I put a little space heater on the driver side floor to warm up the fuse and relay panel, it starts with no issue.
I don't know enough about the interlocks between load reduction, starter motor, ignition switch etc to make a good guess as to which relay (if any) may stick in extreme cold. It's a tough problem to diagnose, because I can only experiment when it gets REALLY cold, when it isn't very fun to experiment anyway. I don't think it's the piggy back harness, because the wipers, horn and fan all work.
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This is about a 2011 Sonata. I picked it up for my son.
The car has been running really well for the past few months, then out of the clear, when trying to start the car, the starter does a quick spin-free, then a short whine. The battery voltage is at 13.1 prior to attempting to start.
The car finally started under a jump from another car, but only after several turns of the key. And with each turn of the key, was the spin-free, then short whine, like described above. It's like the starter had a dead spot -or several dead spots- and I caught it just right, and it started.
I have the battery on an overnight charge. It sound like the starter to me. What do you think? And if it is the starter, how big a deal is it changing it out?
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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I think my fan module might be bad because neither of my fans spin anymore, and my air conditioning doesn't work either. My buddy let me borrow a fan module but it isn't the right one, I just need a picture of the connectors or a part number would be good too.
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I'm an owner of a 2013 DSG Golf R. Today on my way to work, my car did a wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear. This is the first time it did this and I don't know what caused it. For those who didn't experience launching a DSG Golf R, here is a little insight. The car would usually launch in 2nd gear in a normal driving mild push on the throttle at speeds over 5 mph. From standstill, WOT, or a strong push on the throttle, it will launch in 1st.
I was on my way to work and as usual I turned off traction control. I slowed down for a speed bump and the car was doing around 5 mph in 2nd gear. I Pushed on the throttle and as always the car downshifted to 1st. However this time it didn't hook up as it used to do; instead, I felt the car spinning its tires, upshifted to 2nd at 4000 rpm and kept spinning. I released the throttle and it went back to normal.
I tried multiple pulls from standstill on my way back to work and the car was normal. What could be the cause of this incident? My car has a stage 1 tune..
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My 2008 Sienna DVD player suddenly won't play discs because it doesn't seem to be spinning the disc. Inserting and ejecting the disc goes normally but the nothing happens when the disc is inserted.
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Replaced rear brakes for a 2004 camry. Just decided to change out pads/rotors. Rotors were stuck on, had to use the little bolt holes to thread in bolts and push out the rotor. Time to change pads, pads came off fine but when I put on new pads and tried to put it on the rotor, the gap was too small. Seemed like a stuck caliper. Tried to remove the slide bolts, top slide bolt was fine, bottom slide bolt had a lot of resistance and would not come off the slide. Regreased it, re-assembled it and it had a lot of gap to slide over the rotor.
Reassembled everything, tried to spin the rotor by hand and it was fine. Put on wheel, lugged it down and it wouldn't spin at all. Drove it, seemed fine with no pulling but the one rotor was definitely running hotter (163 vs 113) than the other side after a 5 minute drive.What would cause it to spin freely without the wheel, but not spin when the wheel is lugged down?
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I read about Prius will not spin its wheels? if it loses traction, it somehow disengages the drive or otherwise does not power the wheels until they stop. Once they stop, the wheels can receive power again.
That's sure going to make it hard to do burnouts in the grocery store parking lot.
More importantly, it could make it hard to impossible to get unstuck on sand, gravel, mud or snow. It could also be hard to take off on a slippery incline.
Sure, this isn't an off road vehicle, but off the road ain't far from on the road and road conditions can get pretty rough.
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I'm experiencing less torque and acceleration than I was getting when I first got the car. The car doesn't even have 1,000 miles on it yet. I'm wondering what is wrong with it. When I first got it, just pressing the gas half way would makes the tires spin till 6k rpm. Now the tires don't even spin while pressing it even further than 50% throttle. When I first got it, it had regular gas. Now I use 93 octane fuel. This should give it more power? I'm very confused as to why it was give so much and then now output so little.
My vehicle uses the Bridgestone Turanza tires.
This car has virtually every feature possible. BSM, Back Up Cam, LED DRL, leather, etc.
I've always owned Camry's. 1993, 2010, and now my 2013.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry 4cyl. Vehicle had ran hot. Performed the procedure and sent the head to the machine shop for the works. Replaced the timing chain and the oil pump chain along with the tensioner, rails and sprockets. Performed the timing chain procedure and even questioned the information about the counterclockwise rotation against the figures of clockwise,, but aligned all of the links to the dots on cams, crank, oil pump and crank. Vehicle spins tries to crank but, floods all of the plugs, no codes, good compression , fire and even hand rotated the crank to check all of the timing marks and all looks fine.
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I was wondering if the ICE spins (without fuel) when you go over 43mph in the Toyota PHEV Prius while in EV mode?
I think the only way to be able to tell would be with a SGII... I know I cannot feel the ICE start to spin when coasting downhill and crossing the threshold. I just see the RPM on my SG to go ~975...
Look at the AMP readings while in EV mode. Seen more than 120-130amps?
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I noticed that the turbo sounds kind of weird when it first spins up in 2nd and 3rd gear. Kind of a rattly whoosh noise before the normal whistle. Is it normal? I thought it was the "noise maker" thing, but FWIW the 2011's don't have it.
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I've been noticing bad gas mileage over the last few months. I changed the spark plus, that didn't work. then I noticed the prob when I was checking my mail one day, on a slight incline and the car didn't roll back. so I took it home and checked each tire to see if it spun freely, and the two front ones do not, the drivers side being the worst. I don't here any noises coming from either tires, and have actually replaced front right wheel bearing last year.
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I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
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I have a 2011 sonata SE w/ 30K miles, the starter failed on me.
The motor would spin but would not engage the gears b/c of the solenoid or the rod malfunctioned.
They towed my car to the dealer for free and it was replaced but I'm concerned because the towing guy told me he towed quite a few Hyundai's b/c of this problem.
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No crank with key, can jump and it will crank over, no Radio in RUN position, work fine in ASSy position. Engine will not spin over at all with key. Truck low miles like new, what gives? All fuses good and check a full 12volts on both sides. 2008 - 5.4 ....
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I have a 2002 Camry with an A/C problem. When I turn on the A/C, the A/C light flashes and the compressor does not spin. I have check the following:
1. The compressor is fully functional when I feed power to it.
2. The A/C fuse, 10A, is functional.
3. The Mag CLT relay is functional.
4. The cabin filter is new.
5. There is enough refrigerant.
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