LS / MKZ :: Torque Sequence On Lower Intake 2000 V6
Nov 11, 2013
Looking for the torque sequence on the lower intake for a 2000 ls v6 ?
View 7 RepliesLooking for the torque sequence on the lower intake for a 2000 ls v6 ?
View 7 RepliesOur 2000 explorer xls 4x4 with 4.0 ohv just pop the code for the intake gasket leaking. My question is, would there be any way to tell if it is the upper or lower that is leaking? It has 188k on it but still runs good. I think I can feel a miss in it at idle but it is not a steady miss.
View 1 RepliesI have to replace the valve cover gasket this weekend.
View 5 RepliesAre there any tricks I need to be aware of, or any maintenance threads on changing the lower intake gaskets on my 2002 3.0 V6 Escape? Still having high idle issues when hot, and have checked everything else. I changed the upper gaskets when I replaced the plugs and COPs some time back.
Anything I need to be aware of, or is this similar to changing the upper manifold gaskets?
I'm in the process of changing my upper and lower intake gaskets. my question is, the upper intake along with the tubing on the fuel rail are caked with oil/carbon, along with the back side of throttle body. What would be the best way to clean them?
View 2 RepliesMounting the shock with the boot up or down? I know it doesn't matter according to Bilstein but one way has to be better than the other.
Second. What are the torque specs for the upper and lower bolts? I know the lower front is around 350lbs but haven't found anything for the rest. found out the rear bolts are torqued to 66lb.
Third. The front shocks didn't come with a boot to protect the shaft. Is one needed when the shock is installed?
Truck is a 2012 F150 FX4.
Well, I decided to take on the dreaded task of replacing the lower manifold intake gaskets and put in new isolator bolts. It was a major undertaking, and when I finally finished the oil change and fired up the car, it sounded fine. Then I checked under the hood.
I saw coolant spurting out the side of one of the hose connections that I had to take off and put back on. I thought the gasket on it looked pretty worn, but wasn't expecting this!
Unfortunately I don't know the name of the hose connection to pick up a gasket at the store ... it's the larger lower hose that is bolted on to the lower intake, not the hose slightly above it that has the plastic clips.
What is the name of this hose connection so I can try and find one at the store? It's a 2003 Windstar model.
I read 18lbs for the water pump but it took a cheater bar (perhaps due to corrosion) to get the water pump lower elbow bolts off.
On reinstallation, what should the lower elbow bolts be torqued to? Checked the sticky (Ziggy's Torque Specs) but didn't see the specs for this item.
I have a 97 f350 crew cab xl stock everything. 351 windsor in it I do believe. as of right now He is broken down pulled apart in my garage. Due to a much requested headgasket replacement. In any event long story short I got him all apart to discover that there was someone in it before me & had broken the infamous exhaust manifold bolts (5) and two of the lower intake bolts, (of course I've tried the correct route in removing these broken bolts/studs but again the year of the truck (1997) & its bone stock no way their moving...
So of course I tried the next best thing (on a budget) which is to drill them out, but I went to far into the exhaust manifold bolt holes, And now I believe that I've ruined the heads is this so? If so who knows where i can get a decent set of bolt on heads ready to go. yes this is my daily driver & since He's been down I've been going deeper in dept.
During my 35 years of experience as a production line and service engineer in the aerospace industry, it was my job to determine the least expensive and easiest foolproof way to perform any production and service operation.
Many readers here have related their experience with the oil filter housing and their difficulty with its removal and reinstallation with the need of a torque wrench to correctly tighten it. Most all technical tightening of screw systems have gone to the "angular torque method," as it is more accurate than the standard torque wrench.
Have a 2004 hyundai accent and I think I am having problems with the torque converter locking up in a timely fashion. It typically takes 15 to 20 minutes when I am driving on the highway. Is this normal for it to take that long? My gas mileage is terrible (22 mpg last fillup) and I am thinking its related to this.
View 7 RepliesMy torque converter is on the way out so I need to look for a new one. I'm pretty new at the transmission thing but I was told by my indy that my torque converter is on the way out. My problem is that I can't find the part number for my torque converter. I have a 2000 1.8t tip ATW.
View 3 RepliesI was driving my 7.3 down the road and it started acting like the trans was slipping, it revved up and tried kicking down a couple times and when I slowed down and went to speed back up it just had no power coming through the trans to the wheels it just revved. I put it in neutral and it idled up for about 5 seconds. I put it in park n shut it down. I fired it back up after looking everything over and it moved about half mile down the road and no power to the wheels again. The trans is full of fluid, is there a sensor that could of went bad or just the torque converter or the entire thing shot? Only owned my truck 6 months has a trans and motor swap already from previous owner. 180k on current motor n Trans. 382k on my truck. t6 4" turbo back banks exhaust only mods I know of.
View 11 RepliesWhat torque setting I should use for lug nuts on a 2000 F-350 dually?
View 7 Replies2000 Explorer 4.0 dohc avd. 150k miles. The torque converter lock-up function has started to drop out. It can happen after some miles and will light a warning light in the dash that the manual states as "contact tech" or something like that. Everything gets back to normal with just a "blip" to "off-position for the ignition switch and might stay normal for all between 5 minutes to several hours. Seems to me it is an electrical issue. Dirt, sensors?
Runs and shifts fine other than this. Only thing I have noticed is that the temp gauge reads pretty low but I think this started earlier and I understand that the temp gauge has its own sensor. Where to start looking?
I just changed an IAC that was acting up, rough starts in cold weather. Now I have a loud hum in the 4 inch intake and for a minute it idles at 2000 then drops to 500 and lopes, almost stalling. Three years ago I had intake gaskets done and a new kit of some kind for the cam.
New fuel filter, wires, plugs, coil, air filter. No CEL, took it for about a 20 mile ride to see if the computer needed to reset, didn't work. Didn't do this before I changed the IAC, but I would have to tap it once in a while to get it to idle, that's why I changed it.
My mechanic told me I had misfire in #2 cylinder. He replaced the plugs, but says I also need an ignition coil. What is the numbering sequence in the coils?
View 4 RepliesI have a misfire on cyl 3, what is the firing sequence, changed plugs which didn't solve problem... so I'm going to try coil pack.
View 8 RepliesI recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
I went to start my 07 Subaru Outback 2.5i yesterday morning with both kiddos in the car and it seemed to begin to start and then just seemed to stop the starting sequence. When the key was in the ignition in the on position, the lights work, the radio works, everything thing besides the engine seems to work, BUT above the odometer there was an error reading "Er HC', and the temp gauge was as high as it would go on H but the car had not been run for over 24 hours at that point. The fan to the engine seems to be running also when in the on position which I do not remember happening normally, maybe it is always on when the engine is on but b/c the engine is not on I can now hear the fan?
Tried over and over again to start it but the engine never made another sound and every time the lights would turn on and the error message would appear over the odometer.I ran a scan for any engine problem codes but it said it was clear. We tried jumping the car, but the battery is fine (all lights come on, radio works etc). The car has never missed any maintenance and has always had its oil changed every 3000 to 3500 miles. The car has 62000 on it and just (in the last 1500 miles) had its 60000 mile tune up at the dealership.
We had the front two control arm bushings replaced at Les Schwab (b/c it was less then 1/2 the price of the dealer), they were cracked, but all the other stuff was normal and really they were changing fluids etc. at the dealer and didn't replace anything. Our car has never had any problems besides the control arm bushings just being replaced and now this. We had to have it towed to the dealership and it has been there now for over 24 hours and they have told us 'we have never seen this problem.
I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE sedan (base model) with a 3.4L engine at 142Kmi that was just diagnosed with an intake manifold coolant leak by an independent shop.
I've done some googling and found that this is a known problem with this engine (including a class action suit). So far the leak is just external; no coolant in the oil and no oil in the coolant.