LS / MKZ :: RPMs Quickly Dipped Twice Then Went Right Back To Normal Idle At Stop Light - P0456
Oct 8, 2013
I've got a P0456 code on my 02 LS v6. I came to a stop at a light, RPMs quickly dipped twice from 800 to 400(ish) then went right back to normal idle (800-1000) and the CEL lit up. It seems to be running fine other than the RPM drops after coming to a stop.
I checked the gas cap, everything seems OK there. Checked the hoses coming into/out of Evap valve (well, assuming this diagram actually points me to the evap valve: [URL] .... and there were no major/detectable cracks. Any other hoses/fittings that I should check?
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ive actually owned 4 volkswagens one of which was a 2002 big turbo gti which made 325whp..... so now i have a 2005 Jetta GLI with about 41k on it. This car has a serious idle problem. Start up is fine and it runs great and hits boost perfect. It has a 6 speed, APR chip intake, forge DV, and DP. When i come to a traffic light and come to a complete stop after about 10 seconds it hiccups and the idle drops to abou 600 and then back up to normal idle. It will also do it if i just leave the car running in neutral it will randomly stutter. I have new spark plugs and new fuel injectors and i only use 93.
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1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
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Have a jazz blue chipped tuned with giac.. It does this random times.. When I come to a red light on idle the rpms go up and down just a bet but never stalls. The car vibrates and the engine shakes a bit. Engine is stable when car is on and off. Idk if its motor mounts or what?
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Recently my 2005 scion tc CEL light came on and I diagnosed p0456. At the same time when I turn the car on in the morning it idles at 2k RPM for about 3 minutes and then the idle goes down to around 900. If I park and return to the car within 2 hours the idle stays down but if I wait it goes back to 2k and I have to wait a few minutes for it to come down. My question is whether this is related to p0456. What could be wrong and how do I fix it?
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I have done everything I can think of to this car. New; plugs, wires, distributor, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, and electrical lines to fuel pump. The timing belt is fine. The car has a rough idle and when I am stopped the RPM's drop below normal. Now it won't start. What can I try now?
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A few weeks ago I took my 03 Caravan to a shop and they said my alternator was fine, but the Wal*Mart battery (which I assume is a piece of rubbish) reads a bit low. When the temperatures are about 25 Fahrenheit or below the engine will sputter a bit usually at stop lights and the headlights will dim then go back to normal brightness a few times.
Now that the temperatures are in the 40s-50s I am still having this problem, but not as pronounced and sometimes it happens rather randomly. There is now another problem to go along with it. If I have the steering wheel turned hard while backing up and am not pressing the accelerator I have almost had Edward (my name for the Caravan) stall on me instead of just sputtering. Sometimes I feel like the engine is surging a wee bit as I drive down the road if I have just let off the accelerator. In general the RPM seems a bit erratic at times.
The fuel economy is the same as ever, the belts are all new over the past year, spark plugs, and all that. Recently replaced the vacuum plugs where the cruise control would go as well.
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I am having trouble with my 1999 aurora, it starts hard but idles smooth if I accelerate it misses bad, if I am at a light and try to take off quickly it "coughs" and sputters i replaced all the plugs and wires and ran a diagnostics on it and I am getting a tcc solenoid reading not sure what to do next, read up on the tcc and it is not showing any of the symptoms that i hear described there.
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So every morning I get in my car and start it up. Usually, It starts right up, hit 1.5K RPM and then drops to almost dead (~3-400RPM) and then goes back up to a normal idle. This has always concerned me but never thought too much of it since the car goes right back to normal after a few seconds. Today the car did the normal startup and then died. What is causing this?
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I replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
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I have a 05 gli and when in idle the rpms go down really low then shoot back up. what could be the cause and how would i go about fixing this?
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I am on my 3rd engine in this car (known issues unfortunately) and for the past few weeks have had problems with the engine feeling like it is quickly cycling through normal and 'losing pressure' at MPH over 40 when gas is going into the system. Mechanic replaced oil pressure sensor but problem recurred on next drive and AC cooling went out at the same time.
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Recently I have noticed that when on a tune other than stock I am getting a surge at idle - my RPMs drop to around 621-630 then shoot back up to 660-675. On my stock tune my RPMs stay around 640-667 and don't cause the surge (felt as a shimmy so to speak). Is there anything else that causes a similar symptom? I attribute it to tuning due to it only happening when running anything but stock but could be wrong.
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So I was driving along at about 50 MPH and came to a normal stop for a red light. Sitting at the light for approximately 10 seconds and feel the engine stumble or possibly misfire.
I immediately look for any idiot lights and see none, however above the mileage range instead of the pages that are normally shown I see:
LIMIT --- MPH
I drove for about a mile and everything seemed fine, I pulled off into a lot and rebooted the car and now everything is back to normal.
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What is probably causing this white smoke on my 2012 camry se v6 with 105190km? Randomly, the camry would emit a screen of white smoke after stopping at a stop light with just normal acceleration (this is a LOT of smoke, something to be embarrassed about for a 2012).
[URL]......
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My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
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I drive an automatic transmission. After driving about 10 miles, when I come to a stop sign/stoplight in drive 4, the car will "brake" but will idle and then violently shake back into gear. It doesn't seem to happen in Drive 3, so what I do before a stoplight etc is slowly shift down to D2 or D1. Is the transmission totally shot? I had it replaced once.
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I have recently purchased a 1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl. I had to replace the water pump as it was leaking coolant, I also changed the front and rear brakes and also the front rotors. As I was driving it after the brake change I noticed that I would seem to lose power, kind of like it wasn't getting any fuel or something. My rpms would go down, but most of the time would quickly rise again when I pushed on the gas.
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Why do the rpm's run high on 2500 for 1-2 miles before shifting in 4th on my 2000 Ford Ranger XLT and sometimes inbetween the lower gears also. Other times, it runs ok. Why, also does the OD Light ( reading 'off' ) send the rpm's up to 2500?
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Basically i have an integra here used to be a gsr with a type R engine. Basic bolt on's and 8lbs flywheel, 6 puck racing clutch. Here are the problems, i hate fixing other shops messes but here we go. When sitting at a stop light if we hit the brakes a few times every time we do it the rpm's drop and start going up and down, some times when the car is just sitting there idleing it does it. Had the same problem on a del sol with a gsr engine and b16a2 head on it done from the same shop. Also when its cold the owner complains that it will take him like 1/2 hour to start it. I was thinking that the grounding wasn't good enough. The check engine light is on as well, but how to get the ecu codes out of this ecu.
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I am desperately seeking info about my 1998 Honda Civic. My engine keeps quitting on me when I am either stopped at a stop light idling or the rpm's are really low. This seems to happen at random with no warning or check engine light. I keep my tank more than half full with gas so I don't believe this could be it. I have been to my mechanic and they said it could be a multitude of things wrong with it so it doesn't make sense to put money into the car if it won't necessarily fix it. I am desperate to figure something out so it can get fixed because I have to drive to work everyday and I'm sick of feeling anxious while driving all the time!
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