LS / MKZ :: Car Won't Start After Washing
Jun 30, 2008
I washed my car yesterday and upon finishing it didn't want to start and the third time it finally did. I then drove about 8 miles and stopped to pick up laundry samething 2x's wouldn't start 3rd time it finally did. Stopped one finally time and it took 8-10 time to get it to start. Now I can't get it started for the anything.
It make the noise like it is trying but not get gas or a spark. I have replace a starter relay becuase 6 months ago it wouldn't even attempt to start and when replaced it started right away till now. I also along the way replaced coil packs due to it missing. I did not spray in the engine compartment just washed the exterior of the car. Like I said it cranks but doesn't start.
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I usually washed my previous car's engine compartments with a hand nozzle at a coin-op car wash. I would do it a couple times a year so dust and grease never built up to the point of ever needing deep degreasing.
I looked at the engine compartment of the GENIII Prius and see that there seem to be a lot of exposed orange (high voltage?) wires that would be better off covered with some kind of plastic engine cover near the driver's side. It looks naked and some of the orange wires look like they have bare wires exposed on the outside of the tubing where it connects with clamps nearer to the front of the car. I thought my car must be missing the engine cover, but I found pics online that are the same.
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I just washed my engine with degreaser and made the engine look like new and I went to start my car and it sounds like there's water in the engine it giggles and when you press the pedal you get little response I tried to drive and had to rip on the rpm to get it to move what could this possibly be?
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Thinking of washing the engine bay of my 2012 3.6 Passat for the first time.
Usually, I cover the brake fluid reservoir, the power steering reserv., the alternator and the dip sticks before I spray Gunk Gone (or something similar), leave for sereral minutes and then hose the engine down.
This will be the first time I am doing the Passat. What do you folks do as a precautionary prep to wash the engine? Is there something called the clutch peep hole that I need to make sure is properly plugged?
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Why my 2016 IS300 makes a alarm noise while i'm washing the outside mirrors?
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In my 2003 3.5 awd I successfully got my used transmission in and running great. I made the mistake of washing the engine. Now, it runs like Cr@p. It pops and sputters. At one point the CEL came on with 7 codes mostly misfires. It ran ok prior to the bath but I am getting ready to do the timing belt and wp and plug wires. In the meantime, whats the most likely cause of misfires after a hosing down on these engines? I'm leaning towards plug wires or coils...
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It's happened the last two times I've washed the car. I thoroughly cleaned the wheels with Sonax followed by soapy water, then washed the rest of the car. After washing, my usual routine is an initial towel dry, then I take the car for a short drive to shake the excess water out of crevices & the wheels, followed by the final towel dry & detailing.
This is happening on all four wheels. I know my front rotors are nearing their end of life, but the rears should have plenty of life in them (45K miles).
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Up until yesterday, my 1995 Convertible GT ran perfect. The power steering pump has a leak and the foamed fluid overflowed. I replaced the fluid and cleaned out the engine bay where the spill was. I used a little soap, and rinsed it with some water.
Since then, the battery drains in about 60 seconds. I can shut off, and immediately start the car back up. If the car sits for more than a minute, I just get clicking. Starter doesn't even turn over. I can jump the car to get her running.
I've taken all the wire harnesses and electrical connections apart on that side of the engine bay and cleaned them with electrical contact/wire cleaner. I removed the fender, the lights, the bumper, etc to clean. The battery, alternator, and charging security pass a check at AutoZone. I can run and drive the car without throwing of codes, etc. As soon as I turn off the engine for longer than a minute, it doesn't start.
Not sure what else I can do. I was in the middle of a sale, and now thats gone pending me solving this annoying and time-consuming issue. If I don't figure this out in a few days, I'm calling a yard. I really don't have time to deal with a car I'm trying to get rid of.
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The closest car wash is less than two miles from our home and we often bring the GX home directly from the car wash and park it in the garage. We've noticed that the parking brake remains applied when we start the GX the next morning, even though the foot pedal releases. Presumably, the parking brake components were wet from the car wash and enough rust/corrosion forms overnight so that the springs to release the brake can't overcome the 'stiction'.
The GX "squats and grunts" when we put it in gear, but doesn't move. Shifting into reverse solves the problem ... there's a loud 'pop' from the rear of the vehicle as the brake releases, the GX starts to move, but in reverse, which we quickly stop with the service brake, then we shift into forward and drive off ... did I mention that we back into our garage?
I may already have confessed that we are heavy parking brake users ... every time we park the vehicle, even if just temporarily while we step out of the vehicle to get the mail, etc. We use the parking brake so much that the cable stretches and every year our dealership has to re-tension.
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After washing my 08 GX and putting in the garage to wax dry I have found that the next time I get in it to drive-often a day or so later,the car will not move in reverse ( or forward) without me revving it up quite high to overcome the locked up pads on the rotors. Sometimes its even screeches the tires to get in unlocked. I just washed it and letting it sit outside for a bit to see if the sun will dry out the rotors/pads and that would work.
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Car battery was dead, got a new battery from Walmart and replaced.
After that, from time to time, the engine would not start when pushing the start button, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries to get the engine to start. This has never happened before.
What is the reason for it, could it be that the walmart battery is not as powerful as the previous LEXUS battery? or something else?
By the way the car is due for an engine oil change with the warning light on. I use Mobile 1 fully synthetic 0w20 and the light went on every 5000 miles.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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I just bought a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Of course it didn't do this when we test drove it, but as soon as we put the money down the problem started. When you start the truck, the interior lights start blinking. I thought it was a door ajar warning, but after testing the doors, it doesn't stop blinking.
Sometimes it will stop when you put it in gear, sometimes it starts again. some times it stops for a few seconds and then starts again. So far it has always stopped blinking after we have driven for a little while. It seems like it will sometimes stop when I fiddle with the 4 wheel drive shifter.
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My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
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We have a 2004 Ford F250 gas pick up. Went out this morning to start to let it warm up it started and ran for about 10 seconds then died. Almost sounded like a shot going off when it died. Now it is completely dead no lights, no chiming when you put the key in the ignition no nothing. I have tried to jump start it and obviously that didn't work. I also checked the fuses and didn't see anything blown.
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I normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
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Had long start issues. Would turn over for 5 seconds - shut off- turn over for 5 seconds - shut off - third try on 4-5 seconds the low oil pressure would come up and HOP would fire injectors and start up.
Was not sure what was up, so look it to Ford. They did leak down test and found seal at the top of injector 4 was leaking. Replaced it and leak moved to other injector. Basically moving to the next weakest seal point. I told them to stop as i did not want to pay, parts, labour and shop time to replace all injectors, etc. They also said power across all injectors was good, but 3 & 7 were not contributing on cold start.
I drove it home and bought parts. New cups and seal for all 8 on fuel rail. New gasket kits for injectors. Plus 2 new injectors to replace 3 and 7.
Replaced injectors in 3 & 7 with the 2 remanufactured i bought. Replaced all cups and seals on fuel rails. So it has new injectors in 3, 4 & 7.
As for the other injectors i took the 5 of them right apart and cleaned them and re-assembled. Took about an hour per injector, took my time to get it right, just FYI. Went pretty good i thought. Seemed pretty straight forward actually.
Now no start - no high oil pressure at all. LOP comes up right away. Scanner shows no HOP no matter how long i crank it.
FICM power good, 47.5 - 48
shows FICM sync - YES
IPR sits at 14% and jumps to 84% on crank - starting, see photos below.
Scanner prior to crank
Scan during crank
Note zero IPC - PSI
Right now.... Got the valve cover off on passenger side. Cannot see oil squirting out the sides of any injectors, but line of sight is limited. Maybe need a small mirror to see in there. LOP comes up better than it has in years, but no HOP now. Before rebuild it seemed i had good HOP but low LOP.
I drove it home from Ford and into my garage, so i do not believe the HPOP crapped out sitting in the garage, so i am ruling that out as a fail, at this time.
Dummy plugs were replaced 5 years ago and o-rings looked decent.
Pulled the small plug screw at the top of the fuel rail. Cranked it until oil came out, bleeding air. then replaced the screw plug. Have not done that on drivers sideyet. Will try that tomorrow. However, think this is more than an air issue, as i have cranked it over plenty, unless i just have that much air.
Going to pull the valve cover on the Driver's side tomorrow. Then will have both covers off at same time to view all.
Noted that if i put compressed air into the screw hole on top of the fuel rail, i can hear air coming out from below the fuel rail. Nothing at the base or around injectors. Does not seem to be at the cups either.
Just wondering.... Buy applying air to those screw plug holes, is that the same as doing the air test at the sensor that pokes up through the valve cover.
With air pressure at these scew plugs on the fuel rail, should this be sealed and be air tight and hear no air leakage. Because it was not air tight on the drivers side before i closed that side up. I am curious about this.
I am assuming i still have a HOP leak. I do not think i have a failed HPOP. How to better chase a HOP leak?
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When lock button on the remote is pressed twice and held for 3rd time , lights flash but car won't start. I just put fresh battery in remote Haven't used remote start since last winter..
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My 2002 Mercedes E320 has on 2 occasions not started. When you turn the key it acts like it wants to start but it does not. I then wait about 15min and the thing will then start. what is going on?
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It seems that I'm having issues with playing my IPod through my stereo on my '09 Sonata. I'm using the factory radio with the IPod connection in the console. I bought the cable from EBay. Sometimes the IPod will just pause and stop playing. Sometimes I have to unplug it and plug it back in to get it to work, other times I can just switch sources and switch back and it will work again. Also, isn't it supposed to charge the IPod also? I have left it for overnight a few times without unplugging it and when I came back in the morning, it would not play because it was dead. It did not even start to charge once I started the car up.
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