LS / MKZ :: 2004 Blowing Heat All The Time - DCCV Wiring Harness Melted
Mar 3, 2011
My car was blowing heat all the time and after reading some of the intel on this site and running a few checks I decided it was the DCCV. I bought a new one and while changing it i noticed that the old DCCV was burnt up and so was the wiring harness plug. I went ahead and installed the new one hoping the harness would still work. Well it worked great for about a half hour then the ac compressor stopped coming on! I checked the freon and it is good. I believe it is the harness (and yes I checked the fuse). On the harness was a tag with the numbers 3W4T-18C463-BC ...
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I purchased a 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.0L w/ Automatic transmission with Overdrive. Great work truck, but I am finding that these had a lot of wiring problems. First thing that messed up with me is the backup lights wouldn't work. Then the dash lights and parking lights stopped working (Still no fuses where bad). Then about 2 weeks later, I was on my way home when It just died like someone had turned the switch off, I pulled off the side of the Interstate, and after checking my fuses/Relays under the hood.
I found that the EEC Fuse (30AMP-BIG Fuse) had blowed, I didn't have one and the truck wasn't off the road good, So I wrapped a small wire around the fuse to see if I could start it and get it out of the road better, It started right up, but soon as I pulled it off the road it died again, and I found that it melted the EEC Relay, I went to the parts store and got a new relay and fuse and put them in, It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in, with the switch off or on. I just need to know what things will cause this so I can check them out one by one, until I find the one that is causing this problem, cause It run great up till this happen.
Only other thing I may need to let you know, Is when I bought it, the key switch would start it, The guy had put a push button starter switch that you push to start it with the key on, I unhooked it, and it started fine with the key for a while then it stopped again, so I had to hook the push button back up and had been using it until it stop running with me.
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Today I picked up my son over at his girlfriends house, and her father was in the garage. He said he replaced the headlamp bulb, but did not insert it back in place before starting the car ( I guess to check it). The bulb and harness must have touched metal and caused a short at a wire into the harness. The bulb would work if you wiggled the wires.
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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My 77 F150 Ranger with a 400 in it didn't wanna start up at all. It wouldn't even crank or click like if the battery was dead. Then I tried again this morning and it cranked once then melted a red wired with I think a black or gray tracer, on the ignition. (I put a new solenoid on a couple months back and the positive also melted a bit by the solenoid but didn't pay any attention to it.) I'm just wondering what could be wrong with it to make it do that and how to fix it. Also when I went to put gas in it (it's on a slight hill making it lean to the driver side) it was empty but no fuel would go down the filler neck, then it started to gurgle and spit it out some. I was told it was vapor lock but I thought vapor lock happens when it's hot.
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We have a 2006 GX470, 90,000 miles no problems with car until 6 mths ago. A/C has been deteriorating since last yr. This summer charged twice lasted ok for few weeks. Problem initially was wouldn't cool when car was idling, only worked when going 50+mph. A/C charged worked better for 3 weeks, then drivers side not cooling but rest of car somewhat cool. Issue today is drivers side blowing out heat & rest of a/c vents barely cool at all. Told by Lexus need to rip out dashboard to get to compressor to check & fix leak. Last look by Lexus added 2 lbs of refrigerant 3 weeks ago & now completely not working.
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I have an 06 Prius. I was driving my Prius today and I've noticed that my car has NO HOT AIR...
And this is Winter!! I was driving for about 20 mins and still...No Hot air...vents are blowing cold (cool) air.
I recently changed my condenser/radiator but I did NOT fill my condensor with the A/C gas yet. (could that be the problem?) But isn't the gas inside condenser is for A/C and not for the Hot air??
Any other stuff that I need to check to solve this problem?? (harness, fuse etc.?) It's cold outside and my car has NO HEAT!
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I will be getting the DDM HID kit and wondering about the necessity for a wiring harness as it seems many are running without it. I am concerned the not having it will somehow damage the car (based on researching HID's in general) but loving the plug and play idea of running without one.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter/6 cylinder that has 164K miles. I've kept it in pretty good shape with tons of new parts over the past 3 years or so, and don't want to part with it. However, lately it's been getting horrible gas mileage (about 10 MPG highway), has been running roughly, and smells bad.
Finally took it to the dealer after several attempts by my local, independent shop. Dealer said that the car has been dripping oil down onto the ECU wiring harness for so long that the oil corroded the wires and harness plugs/sockets to the point that they are un-repairable. He said this harness is no longer made, and even if I could find one in a junk yard, it would be "pure luck" to be able to use it and have it work.
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Nothing will blow out from vents, with heat or AC. I checked the fuse under the hood and that had continuity, I checked the 7.5 fuse under the dash and that was fine. I also replaced the blower motor resistor and the blower motor with brand new ones. Also used a test light to make sure power was getting to the resistor and motor and that is all good.
2004 Honda Accord EX Sedan .....
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I have a 1998 f150 4.6 that has a problem with the heating system. It's blowing out a little warm, but "far" from what it should be. ( on a scale from 1-10, I'd rate it about a 3) I am puzzled because I flushed the radiator, changed the thermostat, and there a no signs of heater core leaks inside,hose leaks on firewall, or radiator/water smell present. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I did notice the top radiator hose was hot, but not the bottom. I don't know what else to look for.
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The driver's side low beam lamp on my 2006 3.6L stopped working. I bought an H7 from the dealer, but it did not light up. How hard is it to change the wiring harness, and how much should I expect it to cost for the dealer to replace? A local garage said it'd cost $115 to just run a diagnosis on the wiring.
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The AC stopped working on our 1020 Prius. No mechanical problem with the compressor. It turns out that the wiring harness connector to the AC compressor is so badly corroded that the pins are gone. The car has 48,000 miles on it. It has spent it's life in the Seattle area so no harsh weather or a bunch of winter salt on roads to deal with. The dealer says it's due to the humidity here combined with the low miles. The theory is that moisture has the chance to build up in the connection because the car is not driven enough to regularly heat it up and drive the moisture out. Our 2004 Subaru Outback has lived in exactly the same environment since 2004 with pretty much the same rate of miles per year and no electrical issues at all. If that theory is correct, seems like a serious design flaw to me. The dealer's repair estimate is close to $4000!
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Since Toyota didn't have the replacement wiring harness in stock and it took nearly two weeks to get it, and I didn't take a picture of the old one before I removed it, I don't remember where these wires attach!
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Early 2000 vs 2001? Looking for info on replacing wiring harness under the dashboard?
Is there enough clearance to pull the harness without removing the dashboard?
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Transmission fluid migrating into the wiring harness? Just looking for a little education on the issue, solution, and prevention.
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It seems my A/C isn't blowing cold air all the time. It's as if the compressor isn't kicking on or is intermittent. It eventually does, but it takes a long time to cool the vehicle. I've had it about 6 years and it has definitely changed. Vehicle is an '04 with 106K now.
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So my haldex stopped working, I found it to be caused by the wiring harness connector on the back of the diff was internally corroded badly... I want to repair this correctly with both a new male and female connector and im going to need new pins for the wire that shorted in the connector.
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the warning light went off in my car, so I took it to Autobarn in Evanston (where I bought the car). people are nice there.
I was told that I need to replace the harness for the fuel injectors. it is all under warranty, so it's fine. but I really would like to know how long should it take? the car is there from yesterday morning, and it's not ready yet. should it take more than 2 days to replace?
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What is that called? Mass air flow sensor wiring harness? I google 2011 vw gti MAF wiring harness, and i get nothing, or crap thats almost not related to what im looking for. While I was installing my intake, I accidently cut half of the wire to my MAF located behind the battery. Why I was cutting, dont ask, i was impatient. Anyways, what is it called? I want to replace my MAF and the wiring that leads to it.
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I have a '09 SE Hatchback. A while ago the switch that tells the car the rear hatch is open stopped working. The trunk light no longer comes on and the factory alarm doesn't know when the hatch is open or closed. The switch and accessible wiring are fine. The lower left tail light and the left license plate light have also stopped working. Both bulbs are fine. This leads me to think that there is a break in the wiring harness somewhere between the front foot well and the rear of the car.
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