LS / MKZ :: 2003 V8 High Temperature In 8 To 10 Minutes Of Continue Engine Operation
Apr 23, 2013
Basically the car LS 2003 V8 had an issue with the thermostat....this was necessary be changed after 50 miles of drive the car....in the last 4 miles the temperature increased in a short period time to the high limit...with the protective system the car was turn off.....one time with the mechanical service the follow items was changed: thermostat, radiator, coolant temperature sensor, water pump, plastic joint parts (housings), head seals, coolant and the 2 caps (radiator & coolant tank), this last was damaged by the pressure during the over heating.
After all parts changed I still continue having in the car the high temperature in 8-10 minutes of continue engine operation, after this period time the car turn off automatically by the safety system.
I need information about the coolant flow in the system, the pump pulley rotation, the belt installation, the manner and values to test the old temperature sensor, auxiliary pump and the current CTS (cylinder temperature sensor).
The fan motor is working good, none coolant leak is present, and I already test without thermostat (none change in the result).
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2001 F150 5.4 4x4 148K... I recently replaced the intake manifold on this truck and when the engine revs it wants to continue at high RPMs for about 10 seconds after letting off the throttle. When driving, it almost wants to go faster and the gas mileage is really bad. Had some codes come up and took it to AZO and had them checked. P0171 & P0174. Guess I need to do some testing on the MAF and injectors.
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I have a 2002 f150 with about 165,XXX miles on it. drove to work one morning and got out and locked the truck and the horn went off and wouldn't stop. after a few minutes of pushing the horn button down and applying pressure it finally stopped. well this went on for few days, and then it stopped so i figured it was done. Well few days ago i tried to push the horn down at another driver and it wouldn't work. then i realized that my controls on my steering wheel did not work either.
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When I drive 30 min the oil temp raises up to 110c and the coolant raises up to the redzone. And when I stop for a red light my front window get fogged all the way I can see barely anything.
Coolant is filled everything is okay. Only sometimes its really low or when the engine almost hit the redzone its a bit empty. No leaks nothing. Now my vds says 2 errors :
Fan 1 blocked
Fan 2 blocked
When the engine is warm the fan doesn't turn on none of them does, today at the local shop the worker did something and they started working but it doesn't turn on now its off and stays off is the fan switch dead? Is it really the the not working that's causing so much heat.
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I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0L. I've noticed for the last few days that my engine temperature has been getting pretty high. We're going through a pretty intense heat wave where I live and that surely part of the problem but I've also noticed that two large fans at front of my car don't start up right away when I start the car. Is it supposed to be this way? Do they only kick in when the engine reaches a certain temperature?
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1987 Acura Integra 165k... After parking the car, and turning off the engine, and locked the car, the brake light continue to stay on for about 10mins - then goes off on its on.What seems to be the problem - easy to fix?
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I own a 2004 Silverado 1500. Nearly every time I drive, I loose temperature control on the driver's side after about 15 minutes of running the engine. The passenger's side seems to be working fine. I'm not sure if it is a bad rheostat on the driver's side or a bigger issue.
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Idles really high at startup until the engine gets to normal operating temperature and falls back to normal. Takes 10-15 minutes. I recently de-greased the engine and think I may have fouled a sensor...though the check engine light is NOT on. I'm afraid if I keep this the way it is it will cause damage to the engine.
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2003 Hyundai Elantra, 1975cc engine, XD. P0198 Error Code.
I know this is the Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High code and I have seen indications this may mean high voltage on this sensor. My problem is I cannot locate this sensor on the engine. From what I have read this sensor is supposed to be on the driver's side of the engine on the head, rear side.
On my engine the head was replaced (unknown to me when I recently purchased the vehicle). From all indications this is not a CVVT engine. The air intake has a MAP sensor that is connected and appears to be functioning properly. The driver's side of the engine does have two coils but I can see no other wires from the wiring harness toward the rear of the head other than leads to the starter.
The cam sensor is located on the passenger side of the engine, rear side. I have found the oil pressure sensor and crankshaft sensor on the front side of the engine block toward the driver's side. I have found and engine temperature sensor on the driver,s side of the engine on a housing connected to a radiator hose.
Oddly enough there was an OCV hanging on the harness toward the front driver's side of the wiring harness. Adjacent to this plug is a second plug on a shorter lead that is not connected to anything. Both of these plugs have two leads but are shaped differently oval for the OCV and the other is rectangular. I am wondering if this rectangular plug is for the engine oil temperature sensor? What I cannot see is where the temperature sensor would screw into the head on the front driver's side (near this plug).
I went to NAPA today and they do not have an engine oil temperature sensor listed, but I was able to find one on line. I cannot find a connection point on the head that looks like the picture of the sensor on-line.
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Engine temperature too low. Turbo boost pressure too high. The car has the APR 93 octane program, carbonio intake, and silicone TIP.
What could be causing these codes? The car gets up to temp (190) real quick and stays there, and I don't feel a fluctuation of boost.
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I have a high pitched squeal coming from the back windows during operation. I am pretty confident it's not the window assembly itself (linkage, track, etc in the door), but rather the weatherstripping type material that physically lays against the glass at the bottom of the window opening on the door. This happens in both up and down directions of the window.
It DOES NOT squeal when the material is wet, and thus is the reason that I've been able to pinpoint the cause. It's likely that the window channels could be contributing to this as well. The problem is...I don't know how to solve this without applying a lubricant that will smear/streak my windows.
I've already taken clean rags and wiped both the inner and outer portions of this material to remove dirt and dust that they gather...no change in the noise. Is there a way to "condition" the material so they will soften up, without leaving a residue that will streak the window?
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I went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
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Engine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
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I've read a lot on hear but can't seem to find what I need. I just replaced one of the battery cells. Now when I drive for about 20 min the engine idles high and the energy read out stops charging the hybrid battery. The AC recirculation turns off on its own. I have a few codes. the O2 sensor and cat code. The p3006. I had one cell that i didn't replace that was reading 6.9 volts. I thought that it would charge back up on its own. We went of vacation for 2 weeks and the car didn't get driven. I found out that's not good for an older prius.
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We have a 2003 GMC Envoy. Normally upon starting the car, the engine will rev high for a few minutes while driving and then it stops and returns to normal. However, this morning I was driving the car and it was revving high continuously. Every time I started from a stop at a light, it would rev up to 2 RPM's and continue higher while the car was just sluggish. I would let off of the gas pedal and it would drop back down and slowly shift but then it would return to making a loud revving sound as I stepped on the gas pedal. There are no lights lite up on the dashboard and everything looks normal except for the loud revving sound and the car being sluggish because of the high revving.
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I've owned my 2012 F-250, 6.7L for less than a week and it has a check engine light. The local dealer can't see me for a week, and I need to leave town next week.
I went to AutoZone to have the codes checked and this is what they came back with:
P2033
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2
P2031
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2
Can I drive on these codes, or should I park the truck until Ford can see me?
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OK simple question, when I coat to stop using B why does ICE continue to run instead of turning off? If I move lever to D then ICE shut right down. Other than as a reminder "Shift the lever, dummy", why would/should ICE continue to run in B but not D when stopped (assuming battery does not need recharge)?
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When I turn the engine off on my Trailblazer, there is a fan under the dash that continues to run. It sounds like the blower fan. I ended up having to pull the number 34 fuse out to make it stop. This fuse is labeled as "Ignition A". If I pull the #35 fuse, which is for the blower fan, it doesn't stop it. Is there something else besides a blower fan under the dash making this noise and why?
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I purchased my 92 Silverado in Dec. 2008. Since I got it the temperature control display has been blinking 'A/C' for 2 minutes after starting, than goes away. From the owner's manual and the GM service manual I realize this means there is a problem in the A/C system. I figured that it was low on refrigerant since the compressor clutch would never kick on, that and that is what it typically has been in the past with other older vehicles. After buying the retrofit 134a kit, I recovered the stuff that was in it, then proceeded to add the new stuff.
The pressure kept rising but the clutch never engaged. I looked through the GM service manual and they suggested to do the obvious. Is there power to the wires i.e. the cycling switch and the clutch positive wire. There was not. I inserted a jumper on the cycling wires figuring this would complete the circuit telling me if the switch was bad or not. With jumping the cycling switch I still had nothing, the clutch never engaged. My next thought was well maybe the internal clutch relay or the pump was shot. So I ran a jumper from the positive post of the battery, to the positive post on the clutch relay itself. Then the clutch kicked in, I sucked in the 134a and everything was working. I also did this to the cycling switch, when I added power the clutch engaged and all worked.
This tells me I have an electrical issue and the mechanical stuff should work. I don't believe that it would be the cycling switch because with it jumped it should engage the clutch of the compressor and it did not, In fact it did nothing with a jumper on the cycling wires. I assume that I have an issue elsewhere that is causing a dead spot in the system or else the cycling switch would have power to it.
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I got an 88 celica convertible from my neighbor. This is a fixer upper. It needs a battery and an alternator. But i jumped it and after idling for 10 minutes, the temperature Gauge was almost in the red. Yes the radiator has water in it. Is it the thermostat? Or the head gasket?
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2003 Trailblazer 4.2... Two times now, like every other start oil pressure gauge is 0. The engine runs fine, oil level is fine, thinking of replacing pressure switch, ie sending unit after checking connections of course
. Was curious this is a simulated pressure gauge as I read on some other posts?
Supposedly the gauge unlike the stepper motor I need to replace for the speedometer is actually voltage controlled by a circuit board in the cluster.
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