2002 LS V8 3.9 201k miles.
For the second time in about 4 months, the engine tried to overheat. I quickly turned on the heat to cool it down and as before, the engine temperature went to back to normal. I tuned the heat off and it drove just fine.
The thermostat and all that plastic housing around it was replaced about 6 months ago. There is plenty of coolant and no leaks.
Our Jeep has 120k miles and it has the towing package with heavy duty cooling system. In Sept we were returning from a very mild summer in WA when we hit hot weather and mountains in south OR the jeep overheated and we had it towed to a gas station. They replaced the thermostat and checked the fan relay and topped off the coolant (with the wrong type). The Jeep continued overheating when stressed the rest of the way home, another 600 mi. We took it to the Chrysler/Jeep dealer and they flushed the system of the coolant mixture, replaced hoses, fan clutch and the thermostat ($900). The Jeep ran ok a short while before overheating again.
Returned to the dealer and they did all their tests and everything OK. A while later again overheating and returned to the dealer. Their tests again showed no problem, but the mechanic noticed the aux. the fan did not come on when AC turned on. He ran his own tests and decided either the switch or the relay for the fan was faulty, with the switch more likely. They ordered a new switch; the switch didn't?t fit. Called the supplier and requested the correct switch and again the switch didn't?t fit. The mechanic said he could file the prongs to make it fit and did so.
The jeep ran excellent for a few months. In Feb. had to overheat again, this time the dealer found sludge from the old mix of correct/incorrect coolant and flushed system twice. Jeep ran OK for a couple months then again overheating. This time it made it over the mountains fine but driving along flat I-5 south of Redding it overheated. We stopped and after the reservoir stopped boiling (10 min) the temp gauge was fine. We drove for 1-2 hrs. and heats up again. This keeps up till we get home, 400 mi. later. The dealer does his tests and everything fine. I tell them the aux. the fan seems to be randomly shutting off on its own but it does not act up for them so there is no problem. Could the replacement coolant temperature switch for the aux fan not be compatible with the 2002 Jeep?
My 04 passat 1.8t is overheating intermittently when it is hot outside, I have replace waterpump, thermostat and fan clutch recently what else should I be looking at...
View 2 RepliesI have a '95 Pontiac Grand AM. The Heater Coil/Core is leaking onto the passenger side floor. Bad Core. In addition, the car keeps over heating intermittently, whether it's stopped at a light or driving over 35mph out on the road. The gauge goes into the red, but then after a minute it goes back down. We replaced the Thermostat thinking that it was sticking. Drove it around a good 10 mile run. Didn't over heat. Next day, it over heats. Just took it to the garage where they ran it and did compression check.
For over 4 hours they tried to get it to overheat. It wouldn't. They replaced an old radiator cap. They said if that doesn't work, it could be the head gasket (no sign of any fluids mixing - oil cap is clean. No milky residue) or replace the thermostat, which we said we already did. Drove it 2 miles. Started to get hot again. Going to bypass the core to see if this might be the problem. Could there be air bubble from bad core? Not sure if this is the right direction, but I am at a total loss as to what it could be. Pump is running. Radiator fan running.
My 1991 Nissan 240SX (only 85K miles!) has an intermittent overheating problem that began last November. Needle usually right in middle, but occasionally would quickly rise to danger zone. In Nov., I got new radiator and pump, as well as all new spark plugs. Was OK for about 3 months, then started overheating occasionally. In shop a day and a half while they tried to find the cause. Gave me a new thermostat. Then test showed there was a leak in head gasket. Instead of expensive repairs, I put 8-oz bottle of K-Seal in cooling system. Reviews all over the web gave me confidence it would seal all leaks. But within 5 minutes, it overheated. Tried again later, same result.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2002 Outback. It is overheating. We have replaced hoses, thermostat, water pump, the temp sensor, had the radiator tested. Nothing has changed our problem. My husband is at a loss and the mechanic who has is now has no clue as to what else it could be. The mechanic is referring to it as a ghost problem.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Sequoia, V8 4.7L that overheats only when the A/C is turned on. Without A/C on, it runs perfectly normal. I have replaced the thermostat twice, replaced the radiator, replaced the electric A/C cooling fan, replaced the fan clutch, and just recently replaced the water pump (wow, what a job that was!). Even with all these repairs, the engine still overheats only with the A/C on. What to do next?!
View 3 RepliesMy daughter's 2002 Honda Civic is overheating unless you drive over 60 mph. The heater is also not working - it blows air but the air is cold. It is full of coolant - we checked. The thermostat was replaced about 2 months ago.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Buick LeSabre. Back information is this. the car has had a coolant leak for years, very slow though. Last night while working (I drive for a living) the thermostat climbed up to hot and then immediately went back down to the middle range where it normally goes, so I thought I was fine. It then climbed back up and staled out. It started again nearly immediately and I made it back to my work. About 30 minutes later I began to drive home. The temperature gauge started to climb up again, and then immediately went back to normal running temperature. I kept an eye on it.
About 2 minutes later it shut off completely. I had dash lights, head lights, and emergency flashers. Trying to restart it killed my battery and I had it towed home. This morning I put water in it (it was a gallon low even though I had filled it three days prior). I got a jump start but the car wouldn't start. It cranked and cranked but would not start. I did notice a leak of water from near the bottom of the engine. I am curious as to what the problem may be and why it is not starting now.
I have been driving my 2002 Honda Civic for about 6 years now. For the past 4 years its been all highway, driving 50+miles a day. I have just moved to a small town where its all town driving.
When I would get off the highway before, I would notice a burning type smell, but no smoke and no signs of overheating. Once I moved here where the winter has been significantly colder than what my car is used to, and I am doing all in town driving, I have noticed smoke coming from my engine, but my temperature gauge shows all is well. I have always done regular oil changes etc on the car. I will be making a long trip this summer back home and i am not sure if I should be worried about the car overheating. Should I try and find someone to investigate this problem further or is this just some engine gunk burning as the car gets hot?
So my 2002 Jetta 1.8t is overheating. The water pump was bad. Replaced. The thermostat. Replaced. Radiator. Replaced. Radiator cap. Replaced. We're running out of things to replace! I'm ready to go to a junk yard and get a new block! We've tried about 100 magical "ways to burp it" with no luck. We even tried running it without a thermostat. Without the heater core. EVERYTHING.
The car runs at operating temperature at 4 RPM. But when we take it for a drive, it overheats. There's no heat with the thermostat in unless you rev it at the high RPMs. As for the hoses, top is hot, bottom gets hot. As for the car, it runs beautifully. It gives no codes. No smoke either. Nothing in the oil, nothing in the coolant so I don't think it's the head. It just overheats. This has been FAR too long.
My 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T 5-Speed is over heating
Car is still over heating after replacing the following:
- Head gasket
- Coolant fan module
- Geba Metal Prop Water pump
- Full timing belt kit
- coolant fan switch in Radiator
- Bleed the system of all air blow hot air
So Driving the car around town is ok, doesn't over heat, but as soon as I take it on a highway it over heats. I drove it 50 kms out of the city and it over heated, let it cool down and added water. got it back home. Oil light flashed on as I pulled into driveway, turned it off right away. no external oil leaks. Checked coolant, Oil in coolant. also the coolant was boiling, the level was raising up and lowering. I have been reading the forums for a few hours and the oil in the coolant sounds like the oil cooler gasket. Ok so the fans are running and it still over heats. The old metal propeller water pump was very hard to turn so I replaced it with a Geba Metal water pump. no leaks at water pump. Could it be possible that the Oil cooler was causing air to leak into the cooling system causing the coolant to boil? And then when the oil cooler "o-ring" finally failed it dumped oil into the coolant?
I am driving a 2002 VW Golf GL and my temperature light is flashing on my dashboard.
It was on for about 2 weeks before the temp gauge actually started rising.I then took it to "my" mechanic and they said it was a faulty temp gauge that wasn't opening and closing correctly. Fine. Done and Done. Sensor and gauge a few hundred bucks. Done. Right? Wrong!
Not more than 2 weeks later the light came on again with no temp rising.Just yesterday I was driving and the temp started rising. I quickly flipped on the heat to alleviate some of the hot air in the engine and cold air blew out of the vents. I double checked to make sure the A/C was not on and still cold air. Plus, the temp kept rising.
I did a few more tests, stopping, starting and driving quickly and still no change in the air temperature blowing from my vents, HOWEVER, the faster I drove the faster the temp gauge would return to normal. It was when I was idling at a red-light or stuck on traffic that the temp rises and when I'm cruising the temp goes down. It appears that this is the only factor in my temp remaining at normal.
I noticed my 2002 Camry XLE was overheating and discovered that I had lost a lot of coolant. I topped off the radiator with pink 50/50 and went for a little drive, after parking I noticed a slow coolant drip that would eventually stop.
I took it into a shop, and they did a pressure test and found the leak was from SOMEWHERE behind the intake manifold. They also told me that it may be a "common" problem in my year that the threads in the cylinder block are pulling out, causing the cylinder head to lift and coolant to leak. They claim that they have to pull of the the valve cover gasket and inspect the torque for the headbolts, if they're loose I'd need to replace the engine block (!!!)
My thoughts are that it must be coming from somewhere near the intake manifold. I just had it replaced five months ago and am thinking something went wrong in the process.
I guess my questions are, is the bolt loosening thing legit? I'm not burning off coolant (have checked exhaust and it's clean, not white or anything). And what if anything could have gone wrong in replacing the intake manifold to cause said leak?
My engine is overheating, plenty of coolant but fan stopped working. Not sure whether to check fuse first. Dont actually know which fuse box to look in.
View 4 RepliesI have a problem with my Toyota Camry 2002 4 cyl. 2.4L, I changed my Motor cooling fan but my car keeps overheating, I changed the overflow tank top, but still its overheating and the car turns off by itself sometimes, when its cold (after i turn it on) it starts bucking and also if its stop (example, if i park somewhere), and at last, the temp isn't showing correctly on my dashboard.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Lincoln LS 3.9L. Intermittently the temp. gauge will go up near hot, the fan will come on and gauge will drop back to normal. Car will go into limp mode when this happens. Fan and thermostat were replaced several months ago to eliminate this problem but it is back. Mechanic had trouble getting air out of the cooling system at the time.
View 2 RepliesI have been having problems for about 1 1/2 months. My dash gauge never indicates it is overheating. Within this time both heater hose tee's have broken. One of the new ones only lasted about 2 weeks before it broke on all 3 connections. Now the heater hose connector broke. What could be causing this?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 1.8t with 90,000 miles on it. I have it serviced for new Timing belt and water pump (metal impeller, according to the shop) 3 months ago at this shop. The overheating problems never went away. The problem is that it overheating at heavy traffic or idle after a while or after heavily drive, but it cools off quickly when I rev up the engine a little bit, or after getting out of traffic again.
I have another shop diagnosed, they first told me the cooling system is leaking and may trapped air inside so they did replace thermostat, coolant housing assembly, flange seal, pipe sealing o-ring. they re-test and turn out there is no coolant flow and suggest that is it the water pump that fail and ask me to go back to the original shop for the Water Pump warranty. Additionally, they flow test radiator and its fine.
I did return the car back to the original shop and they tested and said the heater core is clogged with debris and that would cause the overheating. They asked me to replace the whole heater core that would cost $1500. But I know for the fact that I have heating in the car and it is hot!
Is there any other reason than what have been replaced or tested (thermostat, radiator, air trap, new coolant)? I think it could be the aux cooling fan since its never turn on when overheating, only when AC is turn on, is it supposed to work this way? Spent too much on this car and hopelessly the problems went away but it's not.
So i have a 2002 1.8t that i got in december. Everything has been great so far untill the other day the car overheated on me in traffic. It was a bit warm out maybe 75-80 degrees. I saw the needle start to climb and then the light went on so i through the heat on full blast and it dropped the needle a bit and turned the light off long enough to pull off the highway. I let it cool down and checked things out. I am not low on fluid, an the fluid was changed within the last year with the vw recommended stuff. The radiator hoses are pressurized so i believe that the pump and thermostat are working. I am thinking it could have something to do with my fans. I tested them in my driveway by supplying them with 12v and the spun perfectly. It only happens when the car is standing still for a period of time. Driving at any speed is fine. Is there some sort of switch that tells the fans to turn on?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 passat. it is a v6 with a manual trans (i do not know about gls or anything like that) but the coolant stop light is coming on and if i drive, it runs hotter than normal. i assume it is a thermostat stuck closed but is there anything else i should look at before i make that assumption?
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