I have a 2001 ls that runs rich and shows no codes except p0300. It will miss under loads and get worse as temp rises. I can smell exhaust and burns eyes when running inside shop.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
Had this code show up after the warning light came on and then the light went away after two day, the car seems to be a little sluggish now. I have read that this is a random engine misfire and it could be a bad plug..
View 1 RepliesMystery issue with my 2001 Accent GSI (5-speed manual, 1.6 L). I'm getting a P0300 error code and the Check Engine light (the light is like an old friend, I miss it when it's not on). This happened four months ago and I replaced the ignition coil - seemed to fix things - but now the light and the error is back with a vengeance. Car stumbles and runs rough. Changed the plugs and plug wires, but no difference.
BTW, there's a small pin hole in the upper part of the gas tank (just enough to give it a gassy smell when the tank is full) but I don't think the hole would be big enough at this stage to cause the check engine light to come on in the same way it does if you leave the gas cap off or loose.
I have a 2010 F250 with the V10 and 42000 miles. Lost*power*while pulling a trailer. Couldn't get over 30 mph. Tried turning back home and lost all*power*and would barely idle. Fuel filter good air filter good. Code P0300 came up. Towed it back to the house and then couldn't even get it to idle. Wouldn't throttle up past about 2800 rpm. Cleaned MAF sensor and nothing. Somewhere during all that P0174 code came up and misfire cylinder 10. Cleared codes and they haven't come back. Now when trying to crank, it barely turns over, yet battery is good. Opened air filter cover after getting it to start one time and there was some light smoke coming out. Also while barely keeping it running for a little bit, the catalytic converter on the driver side was fire hot and the other side I could grab with my hand.
View 6 RepliesMy 2003 Altima (generally trouble-free!) recently lost power ... it would just putter along at 5mph. I parked, and the engine revved up fine. Waited a bit, put in drive and and same issue. I punched the accelerator, it sort of backfired and then ran OK. Next day, I called the local auto center who thought it could be catalytic converter blockage. They ran test for error codes and one stated check engine light was out of order and that instrument cluster should be replaced. They admitted it was bizarre, so I declined the repair and have driven just a handful of miles in the few days since. Today, power lost again, same 5 mph-only issue. I park, turn off engine and wait a bit. Then it wouldn't turn over... some blinking lights in the instrument cluster. So... it's been towed and tomorrow the same auto center will investigate.
View 12 RepliesMy 2001 Buick Lesabre 3.8 loses power at highway speeds, sets a PO101 code (MAF sensor). I have replaced the MAF sensor 3 times, as well as the coolant temperature sensor, the crank position sensor, the throttle position sensor, the MAP sensor, the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) , the pcv valve, the egr valve, the Idle air control sensor. After cruising at highway speed for about 3 miles the car still loses power for about 20 seconds then gradually regains power only to repeat the fault again 3 or 4 miles down the road.
Otherwise the car has plenty of power quickly achieving 100+ mph going though the gears smoothly and normally. I have inspected the intake plenum and vacuum hoses for leaks and have found none, all in very good condition. The car ha 122,000 miles on it and has been well cared for, very clean under the hood with no leaks. I did reduce the egr chimney size to 3/8" while replacing the intake gaskets and that reduced the symptoms somewhat, i.e., the car only loses about 15 mph instead of dropping to about 25 mph before recovering.
Yesterday I went to star my 2.0 Jetta and it instantly starting sputtering at idle. After maybe a minute of sputtering the car died. Tried restarting it and it would instantly die after starting. Car threw code P0300: Random Misfire.
As of today the car now runs again with no problems. No codes. I didn't touch a thing and it seems to have resolved itself.
The entire engine bay was wet from condensation due to temperature change. Is there any way this could've contributed to the misfiring? I'm thinking the spark plug wires might have gotten wet and that was causing the misfire.
2002 F-250 tries to die when I shift from drive to reverse. Usually first 10-15 minutes after starting. After it has gone a few miles I haven't noticed it. Seems to be getting worse but just really started a few weeks ago. I don't drive it everyday so it has been a while.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 GTI (purchased new in 2010) with a stage 1 APR tune and a carbonio stage 1 intake. 71K miles on the car, tune has been on it from nearly the beginning, no issues. I have religiously filled with 93 octane gas -- like, always. The other day I was filling up an empty tank in NJ -- land of mandatory attendants -- and I accidentally said "premium" instead of "super." (I normally self-serve in PA). Before I realized what had happened, I had a full tank of 91 in the car.
I run the 93 octane program on my APR, and I couldn't remember how to switch, so I've been running around the last few days that way, seemingly with no issues. I'm not even sure what's supposed to happen if you burn 91 while in the 93 program.
Anyway, yesterday I happened to go full-throttle in 1st or 2nd gear, and I ran into a little stumble. Strange, but I figured maybe this was the result of my refueling mistake. So, I got out my APR manual and figured out how to switch programs down to the 91 program, which I then did. Took the car out again, and was still able to get it to stumble, eventually with a blinking, then solid CEL. A quick VCDS check showed a "Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected" -- P0300 and "Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected - MIL" -- P0302.
Now at 71K miles, I've never replaced the coils or the plugs, although I have had 2 intake manifolds replaced under warranty. I'm kind of figuring the octane and tune are not really causing this and it's probably just in need of some coils/plugs. what is "supposed" to happen if you run 91 octane on the 93 program? I haven't tired backing down to stock yet, but I could certainly do that and see what happens.
I got a 1997 sonoma which has a p0300 code. I changed the plugs and wires, cap and rotor and the pcv value, and it still misses. what could this be?
View 18 RepliesMy 2000, F150, 4X4, 4.6V8, five speed manual idles great and sounds great and throwing no codes. It doesn't have a lot of zip, but it really never has, at least since I bought it at almost 60K miles.
I've never towed much of anything with it until recently. I started towing a 6 1/2' X 10' trailer with a 1,600 pound side by side or a 1,300 pound mower with a large grass collector. Both of these loads have lots of wind resistance.
The lack of power is REALLY showing up pulling these loads at highway speed. Sometimes, even on pretty flat ground, the cruise control will hold the throttle on the floor at 60 or 65 MPH and it can't pick up speed.
I have maintained the truck well, but there is something amiss. It is due a fuel filter, so I will change that. I've never replaced the O2 sensors, so I'm considering replacing the front ones.
I am thinking about using a vacuum gauge to see if I can detect plugged cats. As I recall, there are two on each bank. I have a scanner, so I was thinking about monitoring front and rear O2 sensors and see if I can get the 100 degree difference that indicates a properly functioning converter.
I'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body.
Something else that is odd about this truck. Being a stick shift, it does not want to go all the way back down to idle speed unless the vehicle is stopped. For illustration of what I'm saying, you can kick the transmission in neutral and coast, and it will stay above idle speed until the vehicle stops, THEN it will idle down normally. I have always thought that this might be because so few manual transmission trucks were built that this is something in the chip for an automatic that they didn't take out for the manual.
I've got the intermittent misfire codes on my '02 Camry, and after changing the spark plugs and the ignition coils the problem still persists.
At first there was no noticeable misfire, I took it to two different mechanics and neither said they could find anything wrong. A few weeks later the misfire became noticeable when I'm sitting at a stop light. I can feel an occasional rumble in the engine.
I took my 2006 W12 to get its yearly smog check, and it will not run "air" monitors due to intermittent misfire. The code is P0300.
Any way clearing this up? (I could find no air leaks)....
Went to do a few things this morning, started the car and it ran like crap. It was an obvious multi cylinder misfire. I checked to make sure all the coil connections and all other visible connectors were tight. Went back around and noticed the mil was flashing, so I shut it down and took the girl's car. I returned later in the afternoon and swapped out my intake in anticipation of it going to the dealer. Started up the car afterward and it ran fine without the mil lit. I had the codes pulled:
p0300 p0303 p0306 Its kind of weird that 2 coils would go at the same time. Do these cylinders share a coil or fuel injector driver off the ecm?
My CEL has come on about four times in the last month shortly after replacing the air filter with a pepboys Purolator air filter. I have cleaned the MAF sensor each time using MAF cleaner and the issue along with the CEL go away then come back in about a week.
I don't know if the MAF sensor is bad because each time i clean it, the issue stops. also, upon first glance at the Purolator filter, i thought it looked a little thicker than the stock one but I didn't think twice about it.
'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
View 14 RepliesI had a check vsc, engine light, and trac light come on... I got the code checked and it returned P0300 only. That was three days ago (5 totals days of the lights being on) and today I start my car up, and all the lights are off.
I've only had my 2007 ES 350 for 5 months. I bought it used with 48k miles on it. I'd been advised it probably need new plugs since none of the coil codes hit... should I still be concerned? should I still replace the plugs although the lights have gone out?
I have a 2000 Suburban 4wd that has a p0300 code. The misfires are coming mainly from #2 and #7 cylinders. Misfires only occur at idle. over 1500 rpm the misfires disappear. I have put new A/C Iridium plugs in, new wires, and new coil packs on both cylinders but the problem is not any better. All 8 fuel injectors all go to 55 psi when activated and drop to 28 when released. All tests were done with my Snap-On Solus.
View 2 RepliesRecently i started the car and it was shaking more that usual. the CEL light came stating P0300 with random misfires. It sounds and feels like misfires so i believe this is true.
View 10 Replies97 chevy k1500 with 305, engine rebuilt by shop 60k ago, last few months only drove truck 4-5 times, last time driving gave p0306, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleared code, now gives p0300, took intake apart removed spider, sprayed/scrubbed each injector and poppet with cleaner, but no way of cleaning the line between the injector and poppets. No change after cleaning. Also ran injector cleaner through tank. All vacuum hoses look in good order, sprayed carb cleaner around intake to check for leaks at intake/throttle body, no leaks.
Checked TPS, IAC, MAF, Coil and fuel pressure, all good except fuel pressure was 52-54 while idle, replaced fuel pump, screen filter and main filter, cleared code, rough start and rough idle still gives p0300. Checked coil with ohmmeter, between posts A & C, Chilton says 0.1 ohms, i got 0.5 ohms, went to autozone and had them check a new coil, it have 0.5 ohms......? Can drive at higher speeds and runs smooth, but idle is poor almost dies.Checked fuel pressure after pump replacement, still ~54 psi. Stumped and don't want to throw more parts at it without a proper diagnosis. Have a OBDII pocket scan tool, but can't find manual, will try to find manual and see if I can pinpoint the misfiring cylinders.