LS / MKZ :: 2001 Lincoln V8 Overheated - Code 1299
Oct 4, 2007
The car overheated once and now it continually runs about mid range on temp gauge. I have no heat when it is turned up to 90 inside the car, it is running great but not sure where to start. I have checked coolant level and also pressure tested everything there is fine. I have ordered a cylinder head temp sensor and a heater core, as well as a new thermostat. pretty sure its not just a thermostat.
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A friend was driving my 2003 Elantra XD GT and he said the car overheated - CEL came on and then he pulled over. When he tried to restart it would nearly start but was undrivable. I put the handy - dandy bluetooth reader and android software in my android phone and it's giving me:
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
Also I've had this car for only about 16 months - did notice a bunch of clay buildup from 'stop leak' side the radiator. What I need to get it running again? I'm thinking:
theromastat & gasket
spark plugs
fuel filter
Here are the details on the error codes:
P0117 Hyundai - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
Possible causes
- Low engine coolant level
- Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
- Faulty engine coolant thermostat
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: P0117 Hyundai Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code
P0302 Hyundai - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
Possible causes
- Faulty spark plug 2
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector 2
- Faulty ignition coil 2
- Fuel injector 2 harness is open or shorted
- Fuel injector 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coil 2 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coil 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinder 2 compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Intake air leak
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My 2001 Chevy Venture van is accelerating on it's own and is now overheating. The heater works, the AC works but the defrost doesn't. I can be at a dead stop, put it in drive and it starts going on it's own, even up a hill. It's also developed a 'knock' or 'jump' with it automatically shits gears. I simply cannot afford a new engine, we did that last year when it overheated and blew the gaskets.
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I have a nissan altima 2001. I have 128,000 miles on it. I have fully paid for the car. While climbing a steep hill at 2nd gear, the engine overheated, and I seem to have broken the gasket. What are my prospects? Should I put a new engine, should I fix the gasket or should I abandon the car?
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My 02 navigator does not idle right when in park or sitting at stoplight. I've gotten codes po171 and po174. The truck ran fine for a good 3 months after the (service engine soon light) came on and I got these codes so I decided to do nothing.. Now it idles bad and has even shut off twice on me while pulling into driveway. I changed the MAF and that did nothing.. Should I assume its the o2 sensors or is there a chance my CAT is shot.
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I just bought a 2004 Lincoln Town Car . I am trying to find the factory set master code for the keyless entry. Is there a website that I can enter the vin number and obtain the master code?
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So out of nowhere, my tranny started over heating. Got up to 210. It usually runs in the 140-150 range. I have the 6.0 cooler, and 7500 miles on the synthetic fluid. My cooler lines to the radiator were ice cold. I crimped my bypass and this seemed to fix it a little (I know this is a no no), I did the flow test before driving it and it passed. It seems to heat up the most at stop lights in gear. It drives fine, no slipping, no chattering. I also dropped the pan, had some stuff on the magnet, replaced the filter too. It doesn't seem to heat up as bad now, goes to about 190. I will install the new bypass tomorrow when it comes in from the ford dealer. Whats causing the heat? BTW truck has a 4" lift with 35's no other mods.
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I'm in the process of changing the wheel bearing and took the brakes, disconnected the sway bar, and other large bolt but can't get the upper control arm disconnected because once the nut gets to a certain point, the ball joint starts spinning with it. Tried holding the bolt at the bottom with vice grips and it still turns. I'm thinking I might have to take off the whole A arm if I can't get this nut off.
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I have a 2001 Lincoln LS V8 that runs rich and no one can solve the problem that's been going on for close to a year. The fuel sys pressure tests fine. The fuel regulator sensor has been replaced. First start in morning is normal but after that I need to give it gas to get it to turn over. Also, car has a fuel smell.
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I recently have purchased a 2001 Lincoln town car executive edition. I'm having some issues with the brake lights. My running lights blinks and everything work perfect but when I press the brake nothing will light up I've checked all the fuses in the manual and all bulbs seem to be fine.
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When I am driving, regardless of the speed at which I am traveling or the weather conditions, etc. The car arbitrarily surges, making a sort of grinding sound. I have to quickly tap the accelerator to stop it...a real problem if traveling in rush hour traffic, for example, so as not to run into the car in front of me. I have mentioned this to the folks who service my car but, naturally, it never does it in the shop.
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I have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car that has an intermittent vibration that can be felt when seating in the car and you move the gear shift lever to D for drive. The car has 141,000 miles. It is an automatic transmission. The vibration cannot be felt when touching the steering wheel. What could be causing the vibration?
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The heater fan quits working on colder days. It is not the fan motor, as twice after it has quit, several days later the fan began working again. As controls are switched, the indicators light and mode shifting sounds can be heard. It seems to be that the fan quits on the colder days (<38 deg) the will resume working again when the outside temperature exceeds 50 degrees.
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I got my 40k service and many other things done Friday. I was super happy until monday my car got hit in the driver rear quarter panel and bumper. then wednesday teh car has a message saying coolant overheated. Today they told me the coolant got all over the engine and that the timing belt needs to get replaced because of this and that the reason was the thermostat got stuck shut. NOw its about $900 repair.
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96 chevy blazer overheated did compression test number 3 was low on compression. And number 3 misfire.
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This is my uncles car and Im doing this for him. Its a 2003 Venture that he has had since new. It overheated but there is no water in the oil and there is water in the radiator so I'm thinking that the thermostat froze not allowing water to circulate. It runs rough, makes a bit of noise from the top end.
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So my Malibu overheated for the first time, and note it just won't start up..
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I had a Mazda CX-7 Grand Touring AWD.I bought it with a damage cylinder head, I replaced plus new rings and bearings and star overheating right away.I replace radiator cap, radiator, water pump, thermostat and still overheating.I took it to a mechanic, he tested and he told me the head gasket was blow and I had compression going to the cooling system, therefore the head gasket have to be replaced again.I give him the ok, and after the job is done, the car keep doing the same and he doesn't know what's wrong and me neither.
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I have a 97 Camry that looked like it had a small oil leak coming from the head gasket. It needed oil added every few days or so, so I changed the head gasket and now it overheats!
I changed the T-Stat, no luck. I took the radiator out and flushed it. It seemed to flow great too. I had the garden hose on full blast going in the top and it was coming out of the bottom just as fast with no back pressure out the top. So I think the radiator is good.
I'm pretty sure the fan was kicking on at the correct time but just to be sure I hard wired it so it's always on if the key is no, still over heating. Compression test shows 200, 209, 209, 211. That's pretty good right?
Just to be sure that the exhaust was not leaking through the new head gasket and heating up the coolant I did a liquid block test. Where you suck air out of the radiator cap and then it goes through a chemical which will change color if it contains exhaust gases. Not only did the liquid not change color, it was very hard to get any air out of the radiator, indicating that the system is tightly sealed correct?
The car is not loosing any coolant. I changed the coolant gauge sensor as well, still shows overheating.
Before I changed the sensor out I bought a thermometer and put it in the radiator. I was able to leave the cap off even after it started to get hot. The coolant did start to rise a little but I just bled it off from the drain plug at the bottom as it got higher, making sure to leave it full and not get any air. And the temp stayed below 200. This made me think that it was not overheating and thus the new sensor. This was not the case though. I realized that the coolant coming from the engine was very hot and then going into the radiator where it could cool down via my always running fan and then go past my thermometer.
The heater works great and even cool the engine down. This means that the heater core is not blocked and that the water pump works correct?
So after all of this I decided that there must be something blocking a coolant port. SOOO I took it all apart again only to find no blockages. I can see very well down into the block and fairly well through the cooling ports on the head and everything looks fine.
I also checked out the water pump and that looks great. Still in great shape and the bearing is not worn at all.
There was only ONE thing that was wrong on the engine (that I found) and that was the throttle body gasket. It was put on the wrong way so as not to fully block that air passage that I believe is pulled from the block into the throttle body. this could cause overheating?
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