LS / MKZ :: 2001 Car Overheating With Steam Smoke And Leaking Coolant
Jun 18, 2013
So i have a 01 LS and i love it so much. Ive only had it for 5months and since the 3rd month ive been having some overheating problems. Ive replaced the coolant reservoir it drove fine for about 3weeks then started to run hot again and leak coolant out the reservoir cap so i replaced that. Still ran hot.. so my brother got some air pockets out of the system but, it still ran hot. So i replaced the t-stat. After replacing that it did fine for a few days then started to run hot again. This time it seem to run hot one day and not the next until one day it ran hot constantly and steam would come from the reservoir and coolant would leak from under the car (behind front drivers side wheel.).
So when it leak i would check the overflow tank sometimes it will be full and sometimes not. When it wasn't full I would refill it until i ran ran out of antifreeze. Well i parked it after it leaked out the last of antifreeze that was in tank. So a few days later i got some antifreeze that was given to me by my brother which was red/orange all purpose antifreeze. I filled the tank up as it was dry and had leaked out all the green antifreeze. I started the car and let it run. It ran for about 20min without getting hot quickly like it usually do, air worked great but hea not so great.
Then I started seeing steam come from reservoir tank which was full of red coolant then its started leaking GREEN coolant instead of the red i filled the tank up with. Also the temp gauge never went to H while it did all of this. And the antifreeze drip from like 4 or 5 different places behind my left front wheel. Its a v8 3.9 engine.
I know one day i checked my coolant after it ran hot one day and it was low so i filled it up with water and forgot to put cap back on and i hopped on freeway. Soon as i got off it started smoking really bad i pull over and the coolant was boiling which i also forgot to mention. Thats another thing it has been doing. But the smoke came from the coolant boiling in tank and since i forgot to put cap on the smoke came out freely from tank. Could this have caused a problem. Although my car was running hot with coolant boiling in reservoir way before i did that and even after.
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My car was starting to over heat and I wasn't getting any heat thru the vents. Thermostat was replaced and so was the radiator cap. The coolant reservoir is still topped off, and doesn't seem to be getting sucked thru to the radiator. If I pour coolant directly into the radiator, car temp stays even, and heat eventually does come thru vents, better while driving. But, I still get steam/smoke coming from radiator cap. I cannot be buying and pouring coolant into the radiator everyday. I have a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse with approx 140xxx miles...
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I have had my 2001 Alero since it was brand new off the lot. It has been a strong running car. It has had done work on it, most recently the mechanic I'm using has replaced the intake gasket, thermostat, hoses, and coolant reservoir because of the coolant leaking. After all that still having problems with the coolant leaking (but apparently not mixing in to the oil)....I've just been putting water in and I have to stop after driving about 10 minutes to refill the reservoir.
The mechanic was going to replace the cooling fans because he said they weren't working but then he hooked up a sensor machine and there were no issues, so he ended up replacing the radiator because he thought there might be a blockage causing the water to boil back up into the reservoir, and the car overheating. The car drives great, but after about 10 minutes there is a type of sputtering. The mechanic is saying that he has replaced everything that can be replaced in the cooling system and that he thinks the head gaskets are bad.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE with 160,000 miles. I took my car in for an overheating problem yesterday after I noticed the coolant was leaking out of my car. I needed a simple hose repair to fix the leak problem, but now they want to replace the temperature gauge because they say that it is still running hot due to: "temperature gauge is stuck and not letting the cold water in." He said that he fixed the hose and it is blowing the cool air to the motor, so the only problem could be the temperature gauge.
Within the past year, I replaced the radiator and hoses. He is saying the temperature gauge + labor would amount to around $300. The car is probably worth around $2250 for a dealer trade-in. I am planning on trading-in the Pathfinder towards the purchase of new one once I am able to present it to the dealer in workable condition. What to do?
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2001 that I just bought off someone. I've had the car maybe 2 weeks, I changed the radiator because it overheated last week. Then, I found out the valve cover was cracked in four places, I replaced those too... I bought and installed a new thermostat, and I thought that would be the end of overheating... I was wrong, last night I felt like I smelled antifreeze strongly, so I parked it and this morning before heading home from work, I checked the radiator, it was empty. I filled it with antifreeze, and headed home, 20 minutes later, I parked on my drive and see that I have a huge leak... and it's antifreeze.
So, seems like I had left the cap open somehow, I didn't close it all the way. That was understandable, so I put some more coolant in it, and took off in the afternoon - 20 minutes into my drive, it starts slowly overheating, I see the gauge going up so I pull over, as soon as I do the car shuts off. I took the keys off the ignition and opened the hood. Now, there's smoke coming off the engine (smoke came from under the valve covers). I gave it 20 minutes rest at least, then added water in the radiator. Turned it on and it worked ok for about 5 minutes, I drove 2 hours to get it home at this rate, stopping every so often. Then, got it home and parked it.
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I drive a 2001 Honda Civic EX and have over 248,000 miles. Almost at a quarter million! Recently, the engine has been overheating. The coolant has been leaking and the coolant reservoir would becomes full. I've checked out the fan and the fan relay and both seem to be fine. The temperature seems to increase (to redline) during traffic jams and any times of idling. When I blast on the air conditioning, the temperature seems to decrease, but would later increase when the car idles. The temperature also decreases to normal when I sustain my speeds over ~60mph. Also, the temperature will fluctuate from cold to hot to cold. What does this all mean?
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It might be a bad heater core, but my heater works fine and there is no moisture on my carpet.
Occasionally I'll see traces of steam and smoke enter the car through the vents. I also smell a coolant smell. I was losing coolant very slowly, but the level has been holding.
Now my AC doesn't blow nearly as cold as it once did.
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I have a volkswagen TDi 1.9 automatic which is using coolant more on short runs than on motorway and produces white smoke/steam on start up even when not cold which disappears after a few seconds. Other symptom is doesn't accelerate though goes OK when once up to speed. Have has cylinder head checked and new gasket so that is not the culprit and also new heat exchanger. There is also a gurgling noise which seems to be coming from the dash board though I am not sure if these things are related. I have read that the automatic has a water cooled EGR, could this be it??
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I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
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My 2006 6.0 is blowing white smoke/steam and Im losing coolant (not out the top). Pulled the EGR valve and its wet down there. All signs lead to EGR cooler? I've been reading a lot on this forum and Ill do the oil cooler at the same time. I seems VERY important to flush the coolant system before I tear into this. I am afraid of hydro locking the motor or ruining the head gasket or stretching the head studs if I run the truck. How can I do this without further damaging the engine? I am doing this myself. I'll have 3 solid days to finish this job because I have to tow my trailer in 5 days.
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my 2001 Ford Explorer has started overheating but there is no steam or water running out and when I turn the heater on I get slightly warm water what can I do? the temp gauge will go to hot and after a while will drop down then go back up to hot what kind of damage am I doing to my car?
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1998 ford taurus ohv is overheating and coolant is leaking out of fill cap takes forever for the temp gauge to read anything then after 6 or 7 minutes of driving it shoots up to about midway overheats and can hear serp belt squeeling from getting wet from coolant
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I have a 2001 nissan altima. About 4 weeks ago it started over heating, smoke coming from under the hood, not the gauge raising. I took it to my mechanic and he replaced the big hose going from the radiator to the engine. I got it back and about 2 days later it started again overheating again, smoke under the hood. Took it back and he said the radiator is leaking it was under a year old so he replaced it, i drove it home on a sunday and monday morning I drove to work 5 miles at 10 am break it had two puddles under it. He said it's the radiator again, replaced it and we went to pick it up and he said it blew again. Sounds odd to me He finally said they thought it was the fans. The gauge never ran hot only the smoke coming from under the hood. If your looking under the hood it was wet on the left side. Needless to say he has had my car for almost 2 weeks and it's still not fixed. My question is should I go get it and take it somewhere else. What damage will it do to drive it somewhere else?
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I had overheating problem on the highway. Towed car to Automotive Clinic - They said I needed new radiator and hoses, so I installed. Couple weeks later, overheats again, this time said I need new head gasket, so I go ahead. Soon as I get back, my car overheats AGAIN. Now back in the shop, and they told me the head gasket blew again...they have taken all apart, and now say they can't find out whats wrong. The coolant is leaking, but they don't know why...it failed hydrocarbon testing. What can it be?
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I have a 92 f250 4x4 351 windsor, so I had a hose bust the other day that ran from one side of the intake to the other, I mean completely split down the side. The engine overheated when this happened so i replaced the hose and everything seemed fine until i was heading home and it started to overheat. Being frustrated and angry i noticed that the heater was blowing out cold air when it was overheating and that the top radiator hose would run flat when i popped the hood, but no coolant would run thru it until it overheated and sucked it back up or something. But I then changed the water pump thinking it was that but it wasn't, so then i suspected a stuck closed thermostat. I changed that and coolant still isn't running thru top radiator hose and now I am leaking coolant from what could be the thermostat gasket or somewhere else im scared and want to fix this problem.
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I have a 2002 VW MK4 1.8t. It has 172,000 miles on it. Since i bought the car i have had to add coolant from time to time due to leaks from various plastic coolant parts so I replaced the crappy plastic connectors and flanges as they failed but it has never overheated till a couple days ago. It rose up to about 210'F but I didn't let it get to 260'F (aka the red zone).
While the temperature was up, the coolant was spraying everywhere causing white smoke under the hood. I stopped and looked under the hood and came up with the conclusion it was the coolant flange that holds the temp sensor since it was leaking coolant from the flange like a faucet hince the reason it caused it to overheat due to lost of pressure and no coolant in the system. So I replaced the part and gaskets then checked for other obvious leaks.
No leaks are shown nowhere else in the vehicle. So I added coolant to the car and let the cooling system do its magic as i left the heater on high. Let car idle with cap off and heater on for about 45 minutes. No signs of overheating. So I take the car for a spin and that's when the car starts heating up. I look under the hood and feel hoses and notice all are pressurized but top hose that leads to coolant flange is hot and the bottom hose connected to thermostat is cold.
I checked the return hose that leads up to the coolant reservoir to see if it's cycling and it appears it was. At low rpms the return hose had a steady flow and at high rpms it was flowing much rapidly. Which made me think it wasn't the water pump also this car with that many miles wouldn't have lasted with the plastic impellar this long if it wasn't already swapped out by previous owners. My question is what would cause it to still overheat? I forgot to note the fans did not turn on when the temperature was rising unless i turned the a/c on. But i still did a drive test with a/c on and it still overheated. I also did multiple burp cycles. I have invested alot of money in custom work and suck to leave it parked on the drive way.
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My 1994 chevy cavalier is overheating mainly on hot days and when I work the engine hard. My coolant level hasn't dropped in a long time and the coolant cap is usually dry. I replaced the thermostat and checked the radiator hoses. They seem to be fine. My engine is leaking coolant.
(See photo) : IMG_2308.JPG3024x4032 2.61 MB
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Recently my 2003 Cadillac CTS has been leaking coolant at a faster pace than I could ignore. After noticing smoke barreling from under my hood, I decided to research the problem and attempt a DIY repair job by replacing the auxiliary coolant pump. After purchasing the part online and reviewing any forums I could find, I was determined to prove the naysayers wrong by undertaking the task over a free weekend. After a couple of hours I soon realized that this was a two man job. Still alone at the 4 hour mark, I was almost resigned to having it towed to a mechanic with all sorts of wire connections still unplugged. Resigning to give it one more college try I tempted the father-in-law over with the promise of all the beer he could drink. After another 4 & 1/2 hours 'without draining the coolant beforehand :)' we had successfully accomplished the mission (almost) impossible. So all in all, this chump (myself) spent almost 9 hours to perform this complex vehicular operation. My question is, for this part (an aux. coolant pump) how long would a certified, classically trained mechanic take to make the repair?
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I have a 2006 v6 ford mustang and just developed this problem yesterday.
When I drive the car, the temp guage stay right in the middle, but when I park I get white smoke come from under the hood. I popped the hood and saw coolant leaking from where the top radiator hose meets the engine block. This was producing the smoke. When I checked the hoses, the top hose was hot and hard, the bottom hose was cool and soft.
Extra info:1. I did not touch the radiator to see if there were cool or warm spots2. The overflow bottle looked empty or close to it, but the engine was still hot from driving to work
Thinking this could be one of the following:
1. bad thermostat
2. clogged radiator
3. Air bubble somewhere blocking the coolant flow
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Last week I noticed I was having to refill coolant in my excursion more than I should. I hae a mechanic friend now trying to diagnose the problem. he said he doesnt think its the water pump and there's no white smoke. Are there common leaking places for the coolant on 6.0s he should be looking for?
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My truck is a 2005 6.0 with no after mods and has 73000 miles on it. It began to blow white smoke out exhaust. I changed out the egr valve and cooler. After putting back together it then blew white smoke ran it to clear out. This worked however once it warmed up it began to blow thick white smoke at 20 mph and clears up by the time it reached 30mph and white smoke shoots out at rapid acceleration. As well there is coolant leaking out under the truck from somewhere in the motor about in the center. I am looking to work on this myself as I have heard of owners taking it to shops and paying a lot of money for the prob to not get fixed.
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