LS / MKZ :: 2000 V6 Won't Start But Click Sounds Comes From Fuse / Relay Box Under The Hood
Jul 23, 2012
I have a 2000 LS, V6, that won't start, had the battery and alternator checked and are fine, last week i notice when I turn the switch to start up there was a 1 or 2 second delay then it would start, the other day the wife called me at work to tell she she was out and it wouldn't start as I was talikng to her she tried it and it started right up, didn't do it again until this morning, check the fuses and all were ok, it started 2 times then about 30 minutes, nothing, and i mean nothing, the security on the dash doesn't indicate a problem, I turn the switch everything lights ups as it should, everything works(radio...etc.) go to start and nothing but click, sounds like it comes from the fuse/relay box under the hood, starter maybe? relay?
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Just noticed I have no more horn... I had car alarm issues for a while and the alarm would sound all day in the parking garage while I was at work (was keeping the car unlocked at home...) Finally fixed the hood pin.
Going back to the horn, the horn fuse was burned in the hood relay box, and when I replaced it and tried the horn again, it burned again... Where to start? Do I go for new relays, new horns, new wiring or all of the above...
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Well, it's starting to look like I may have to build my underhood harness from bits of multiple harnesses. I found a 2000 Excursion harness, but the engine plugs and wires were hacked off during engine removal.
After in-depth study of wire diagrams, it looks like I can just get a pickup harness and combine it with the aforementioned damaged Excursion harness to get what I need- and do it for about 50 bucks.
I also notice that there are a few Ebay sellers who just sell the fuse/relay box with the wiring harness hacked off of it. So my question is- how do you remove the wires (including the terminal ends) from the fuse/relay box? I've fiddled around with my burned up parts and can't seem to figure it out.
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Have a problem with starting. Truck had an alarm system that I took off. Reconnected the wires back to factory. Installed a new battery-starter cable. Checked and had no radio and no power windows. Found two relays missing and one fuse under the hood missing. Installed new. Tried again and have all accessories but will do nothing when turning key to start. With key on I can jump across solenoid by starter and it will start. Once started it will not allow me to shift out of park. If I shut truck off and turn key to on position I can shift out of park and into neutral and jump across solenoid and it runs. Once I shift back into park it kills the truck and we start all over again. I've traced wires and fuses and can't find anything. 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4l....
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About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0 diesel 189k kilometers. Had an egregious delete done about 3 weeks ago. A couple of nights ago the temperature was about 10 degrees f and Whalen I started her it sounded like electrical arcing or grinding. She started and off I went. The next morning it was 0 f went to start and made the same noise and then just stopped cranking. Now when I turn to start I get nothing except the relay click under dash. I tried jumping the solenoid and got nothing. Someone told me that my ground connection might be off the starter. Problem is I can't seem to get at the starter.
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Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
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I have a 98 f150 Lariat 4wd Automatic with a 2000 4.6. When i turn the key the only thing that happens is i hear a relay in the fusebox in the dash clicking. I can cross the starter relay on the firewall with a screwdriver and itll start right up. Heres what ive done troubleshooting wise.
1. Checked battery terminals. Fine, it will start with jumping the relay so it seems good with that regard.
2. Tested the relay per the manual. Good.
3.Ohms Tested the white ignition switch box under the dash per manual. Good
4. Voltage tested the Trans Range Sensor per manual. Good.
5. Checked over all fuses, none blown.
6. No theft lights come on.
I figure since it will start jumping the relay that the battery, starter, and starter solenoid are all good. Only thing i cant seem to find is the Starter Interrupt Relay, or any sign of fusible links on the main battery cables. I am really at a loss here i figured one of the components ive tested would be it.
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My girlfriend went to start her car this morning only to find that it would not start and there is a click coming from the horn fuse. Went to try to jump start the car and the horn actually came on, but still would not start. I have researched a little and found this can be a common problem with the rubber bumper under the hood or caused by unlocking the door with the key and not not the remote start. She called hyndai and they suggested to charge the battery and then try to shut the alarm off with the fob.
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Yesterday my wife went out to go somewhere and just got a click when she tried to start the X. I went home and thought it may be a weak battery and charged it up but same thing. The "click" is coming from just behind the fuse panel on the driver's side in the cab. When I turn the key to the ignition position some of the smaller lights on the dash turn off too, like the door ajar light etc, and then when I release the key they turn back on (don't know if that's normal or not, haven't really payed that much attention while starting).
2000 V10 Limited, K&N Filter, Rancho RS9000's
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1999 XTL 4.0 auto, was doing fine, replaced Interior light bulb, now wont crank over!!! i suspect the anti theft system... how do i fix or ByPass the security system, i can start the truck by Manually engaging the starter Relay under the hood.
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I am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
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Ihave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
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I have a real nice 2000 excursion v10. All great then dead, worn t start. The starter goes click cross starter it goes click, cross selonoid goes click. My anti theft light goes out. Battery is good fuses are good it just will click..could it be the ant theft needs to be reset and if so how would i do it?
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2000 excursion V-10. I parked the truck, went back to start it and all my gauges blink, and the number one relay under the dash (interior light relay) begins clicking. The truck will not even crank. The relay will continue clicking (even with the key off) until you remove and replace the relay. Sometimes I will get absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I have tried jumping the battery, no change. Also tried starting it in neutral to trouble shoot the NSS, but it won't even click when in neutral. I checked battery connection, and followed the battery cables to look for a short but found nothing.
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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
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About a month ago I was using my driver side seat heater when I noticed it wasn't warm anymore. I looked over and found the indicator light for the heater was off. Here is what happens:
When I push the buttons, I can hear a relay click under the dash, the indicator lights come on quickly, but then they go right back off. It does not matter if I choose upper or lower heaters, and it acts the same for both driver & passenger seats.
I connected up a Snap-On computer to it yesterday. We went under the driver door module and it shows the heated seats, but no error codes were present. It displayed the heated seat as inactive. When the button is pushed, it would show active for a split second, then go right back to inactive.
My mechanic friend thinks that it may be a shorted heater module. He isn't 100% sure on if that is the correct diagnosis, or where to locate the module. I believe it to be under the driver's seat.
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Car ran great prior to sitting for 4 months. Tried to jump it and it wouldn't turn over, so i figure the battery was dead. I replaced the batter with a new one, had fresh fuel added.
I then thought perhaps it might be the started, so I removed it and had it tested and it passed (it's working). Car still wont crank. I turn the key and there is nothing not a sound, except the fuel pump. No crank nor click? Not sure where to go from here?
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My fiance was driving my 2001 Accent, 1.6 manual trans, when it suddenly died. Now when I try to start it, I only get a single click. I also tried popping the clutch and nothing.
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I have a 1998 Camry. My directional light and click correctly when I tun them on. When I GENTLY turn off the directional signal, I hear the relay continue to click, however the dash lights do not blink, nor do the outside lights. If I let the directional lever jump back into place, the problem does not occur. Is it the switch in the column, or the relay?
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I bought my 2001 f250 5.4 a few weeks ago. It had a blown plug but other than that everything worked fine no codes. I fixed the plug yesterday finally had time, tried to crank it and battery was dead. So I charged the battery up and tried to crank and engine wouldn't turn over just a click like battery was dead even tried battery off my explorer same thing. I tried arcing the solenoid on started it arced but engine didn't turn over. Tried cranking again and started having crazy electrical problem. The #1 relay for the interior lights was making a repeated click click click and int lights would flash in sync with the clicks.
I then realized my headlights,blinkers,stereo wouldn't work but when I would cut headlights or hazard lights on the blinking int interior light would stop until I turned headlights off. I have an obd link sx with enhanced ford diagnostics software so I plugged it in, and I had 12 B codes all of them was relays that "supposedly" went bad at exact same time and there was two C codes that were raps related. My initial thinking is the gem but if it was bad why would it throw 12 bcm codes and two chassis codes. Could it be the raps and if so I wonder why it would throw 12 faulty relay codes. I guess my question is where would I start gem,bcm,raps or is it something totally different then that.
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