LS / MKZ :: 07 Overheating - Car Doesn't Get Up To Speed Going Up Hills
Sep 20, 2013
The engine light comes on and the wrench. Car doesn't get up to speed going up hills when this happens. One time it would not go over 30 without a whining noise. It's happened now 3 x's in 10 days.
First time the radiator cap was not on securely. Apparently that must have been from the shop because I have only had it for 10 weeks. Which is 2 weeks over the warranty and 2K miles over warranty also. Just my luck.
Doesn't happen every day, appears to be on hot days. When it's cool in the 50's or 60's I'm fine. First happened when it was high 90's. Then today its about 80.
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So here's the deal, I bought this 93 Volvo 940 turbo station wagon about a month ago. It was stalling when I got it so I replaced the rotted hoses, fuel filter and cleaned the fuel system. The fuel pump was replaced a little before I got it. 2000 miles later it is stalling again at any speed mostly when the rpms go up and on hills. We are trying to replace the map sensor but can not find it anywhere under the hood. Does this car even have a map sensor and if so where is it located... We are also trying to clean the throttle sensor but cant seem to get it out without taking a bunch of other pieces apart, is there a trick to this. Is there anything else it could be...
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I took my 09 6 cyl. AWD Santa Fe Ltd. into the dealership this morning because of a whoop whoop whoop noise when accelerating normally or maintaining speed on a grade. A bit like a helicopter sound. The frequency of the noise increases with speed and seems to come from the front driver's side. I thought it might be a wheel bearing.
$2000+ later I have new tires, a 4 wheel alignment, new rotors and pads fore and aft, a new tie rod end and a car that goes whoop whoop whoop when I accelerate or climb a hill.
The car has 125,000 km. (78,000 mi.) on it and has been very well maintained. Detonation maybe?
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The beast slowed to a crawl on the interstate saturday morning for my son's soccer games... wouldn't hold speed up hills and engine had definite shudder at all speeds... fortunately, the dealer is in the city he was playing in adn the service dept is open on saturday mornings, so I could drop it off... they were exceptional about getting a loaner (new jetta tdi wagon)... they called today to report that one of the turbos was ruined... VW says they have to replace both to complete repair... tracked down parts in germany and will take about a week to arrive, then a day or so to repair. Had problems with the v10's turbos? I'm at about 12K miles... this is my second v10 and it's kinda spooky to have this kind of problem...
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My R has 133,000 miles and is overheating at speed. It will cool down at idle. Both fans are working. The water pump was replaced at 105,000 and I replaced both fans at 95,000 miles. The dash temp gauge goes almost to the red, but not all the way. It gets hot enough to shut off the A/C compressor.
Based on the collective wisdom of this forum, does this is a failing water pump, or a partially opening thermostat? This past winter it seemed to take longer for it to get warm. I'm leaning to thermostat.
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My 2006 Azera has a most bizarre problem. I can drive the car just about any where I want to with no problem. However whenever I drive it at a very low speed it starts to overheat, and it overheats quickly. It is most notable when I drive up the hill to my house. It is a dirt road and is a very steep hill. I generall shift into 1st to climb the hill. To see if going into first caused the problem I tried the hill a couple of times leaving the car in automatic. One time it did not overheat and the second time it started to heat up a little but then cooled right down once I stopped the car.
The dealer told my wife there could be a bad connection on the battery and they tried tightening the connections and the second time they replaced a battery cable, which was not cheap, and how either of those could affect engine heat is beyond me. I am at times almost suspicious that perhaps I just have a temperature gauge that goes psycho every now and then, but it goes psycho consistently. I don't think it's a warped temp gauge. The dealer hasn't mentioned the thermostat as a possibility and I'm thinking of pulling it out and testing it myself.
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So yesterday in traffic my R went up 1 tick on the temp gauge while in traffic. It took about 30 minutes in traffic for it to go up that one tick. I know that there is some test you can do to check if the low speed fan is coming on. What is that test?
This morning in traffic for 45 minutes and no overheating of any kind, temp didn't move from full vertical... That being said, when i got to my office, I popped the hood and tossed the AC on while parked, only 1 fan (pass side) was running, aren't they both supposed to be going with the AC on?
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I might be getting a 78 celica gt 5-speed and with the stock 2.2 ... It doesn't really go very fast and I am trying to figure out what I want to do to this thing. so far I kinda like the idea of shoving a 350 under the hood but i kinda wanna stick with putting a toyota motor in it.
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I have a 96 honda civic that I can't seem to figure out why its overheating. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and cleaned the system a number of times. It only seems to overheat when I'm on the free way and up to speed. When I get to my destination I see that the water overflow is full of water like to the top of the filler, so the water is being ejected out of the system. It also seems to have a lot of pressure in the system.
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I normally run my climate control in manual mode, and I notice that my blower doesn't always run at a constant speed. I know that if you use the Auto setting the fan will change speeds, but I didn't think it should do that if you are using a manual setting. Is that right?
I was thinking I would make an appointment with the dealer to check it out. But didn't want to do that if this is normal behaviour.
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I have a 1994 F-250 that we have changed the thermostat, radiator, water pump, cap, hoses, and installed a spring fan. New heads. Hot heat in the heater. It runs normal at highway speed for around 10 or 12 miles and gets hot. pull up and idle and the temp retracts. Even the block has been blown thru. What could possibly be the problem?
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My '97 Honda Civic overheats when driven at high speed on the highway for more than an hour. I've changed the thermostat and the radiator fan, but it still does it.
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In my current speedometer the speed needle doesn't work i did everything and changed all sensors and checked all related issues and all is fine turned out the issue was with the speed gauge it self. So i bought my self a used speedometer.
Now my question is, how to dismantle the speedometer cause I want to take out the speed gauge from my old one a replace it with the new one i know its much easy to change the whole thing but I don't want to play with the mileage I have on my car.
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I noticed recently that my car has been running a little sluggish lately and can't figure out why. What I mean by sluggish is that when I press the gas the car is relatively slow to get up to speed. Getting onto the freeway for example, or just trying to take off "quickly" (it's a Hybrid so not trying to race anyone) just not noticing the car doesn't seem to get up to speed as quickly as before.
This is with ECO mode on or off, just more noticeable with it on. Just got the oil changed this morning, still noticing it.
The car has only about 35K on it so really puzzled as to what might be causing this problem.
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For the past month or so my 05 TDI Jetta has been having some acceleration issues. It starts good and when i start driving it goes ok (but not as good as it should) but when the car gets close to 3k rpm it doesn't pick up speed anymore. I recently had it taken into a shop where they fixed other issues but they didn't fix this one. also sometimes it will accelerate faster than it did before it had issues but then it just stops picking up seed. I have looked up this issue but haven't found a cause for it.
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I recently got a 2002 f150 5.4. The fan speed works on 1 & 2, and 4. It does blow on level 3, but it seems to blow at the same cfm as level 2. I'm thinking this can't be right. But, if it was a simple resistor issue, it wouldn't run at all on level 3, right? So, where I should look first.
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1998 Honda Civic EX. This has been a great car and have got a ton of good miles on it. The problem that I am having now is with the temperature gauge. The measurement is completely all over the place while driving. While moving around town, the gauge shows the temperature VERY hot. As soon as I reach a consistent speed, the temperature drops back to normal (moves very erratically!). The gauge seems to get even hotter while idling. Another issue (may or may not be related) is the heat coming out of the vents is only working while the car is in motion. While stopped, it pumps out cold air. The temperature immediately changes when I get going again. Both problems seem to be getting worse. The car has coolant, and all other levels of fluids are normal.
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6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
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What may have wrong with my trans on my truck... this is what its doing, I am able to put in drive and drive it for so long then its like the truck is in neutral and doesn't gain or maintain speed. but i can turn the truck off and put it in park and restart the truck and it will go again?? that is how i got it home....
the fluid is burnt now but wasn't that bad until the trans started doing this. I have pulled off the pan and inspected the filter and it does have metal debris in it, pulling the valve body off tonight before work (work 3rd shift) to inspect that, i think it has something to do with the solenoids or valve body because it actually moves but then quits until i restart the truck. Also does the transfer case use fluid from the transmission? or are the fluids separated between the 2.
Truck has 4.0L SOHC with a 5R55E in it 4WD...
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I have a 1995 3000gt sl. When im on the freeway running at 80 mph and maintaining that speed it starts to overheat.I can reduce my speed and it starts to cool down I can also turn heater on high and that cools it down I cant hit the exit ramp and by the time I get stopped at the end of ramp its cooled back down.I can start it and sit with it running and it never gets hot.If I stay below 55 I never have any overheating its only when I increase and maintain 75 or faster I have a problem. Also when it was hot outside I turned my air on max cool one day and it got hot real fast.So to fix that I just didn't run my air any more. then a few months went by and this started to happen.50mph and slower its fine.But at freeway speed limit it starts running hot. Only with increased speed to the engine does it start getting hot.
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I am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.
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