My 2005 Kia Optima has 138,000 miles and cuts off after it has been running for a while. I've taken it to a Kia dealership and they replaced the Catalytic converter and an oxygen sensor but no luck. I've taken it to a private shop and had the plugs replaced and the timing belt. Still no luck. What could be the problem?
View 7 RepliesDriver's door can't be opened. This 2005 Kia Optima EX has power door locks. It does NOT have rods that you can manually pull up to open it or push down to lock it. There are two ways to lock on unlock all the doors....with rocker switch on the driver's armrest or by pushing or pulling a small "button" located under the inside door latch to lock or unlock the door. When the driver's door gets stuck in the locked position I can hear the electric "actuator" inside the door panel as they lock or unlock the doors.
Using the "button" under the inside door handle doesn't work but if I rock the rocker switch from lock to unlock while my wife pulls on the outside door handle the door will eventually come open. The driver's lock/unlock button is operating incorrectly. When the rocker switch is pressed down to open the door, the button moves all the way back but then moves about about an eighth of an inch forward. The right side door buttons don't do this....they move all the way back or to the open door position and stay there. So, is the actuator in the door bad, is the rocker switch bad, or does= some electrical device, (a solenoid?) etc, bad that is not even located in the door?
Is it advisable to shut down the car while the ICE still running?
View 1 RepliesIs it advisable to shut down the car while the ICE still running?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 monte carlo ss. A few months ago the check engine light came on, the temp gauge stopped working, and after shutting the car off you can hear the fan running for about 10-15mins after i shut it off. I assumed it was the thermostat, so that was the first thing i changed. For the first few weeks everything seemed fine. No check engine light, temp gauge worked...then today suddenly it all started happening again. What could be causing it if the thermostat has already been changed? what should i try next?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2014 Lexus ES300h. I just started noticing that after 2 to 4 hours after turning the car was turned off, I am finding what sounds like the electric motor running. There is a buzzing sound. I can turn the car back on for a few mins and then back off, the electric buzzing sound goes away.
Since owning the car, I've never found the car buzzing. It sounds like the electric motor is charging the batteries. Do I need to have this checked? I have 28k miles on my car and have never had an issue.
I have a 2005 Honda Accord EX 4-cyl with a very peculiar problem. The car will start and run fine as long as I don't have to shut it off and restart it. However, once I shut it off, it will not start back up unless I give it some gas. Once started, the car will not idle unless the gas is pressed to maintain revs. This happens when the car is shutoff for a just one second, and only when warm. Once the car cools down, it starts and idles fine.
I've tried changing the FI Main Relay and it didn't work. I've also flushed the coolant and changed the radiator cap which seemed to work a little bit. I recently cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve which didn't make any difference. The Fuel Filter has been replaced as well. There are no CELs on and the car has 267,000 miles.
My Prius makes a noise (maybe a pump noise?) after shutting down car. I shut down and it makes the noise as I'm getting out - it lasts maybe 5-10 seconds. It sounds like a pump is running and a bearing is going bad. Attached, zipped video is about 1.5MB, 10sec long.
View 8 RepliesI had the battery checked. Good battery. No codes via regular obd 2 scanner.
2002 passat B5.5 1.8t 5speed.
2x while stopped downhill it shutdown.
Also sometimes has hard starts.
when that happens I get the EPC light light up.
cel is on anyway from p0420 (cat)
If I shut it down and turn it on, maybe after 2-3 tries itll come on. What could it be?
2005 F-350 diesel... When I first got it the radio was shutting off by its self, my 02 did the same thing so I wasn't to worried about it.
But things have advanced , radio shuts off , windows wont work? Goes on and off at will , does not seem to be road bump related as they go off and on when Im not moving.
Will stay off until I restart truck sometimes and other times it only stays off for a few minutes.
Where is the oil filter located on a 2006 1/2 Kia Optima EX V6?
View 5 RepliesMy passenger side low beam head light is dim. I changed the bulb and still have the same issue. High beams are ok.
View 4 Replies2004 Kia Optima has the AC compressor locked up. What else needs replaced on this car to properly do the job? I can pull a vacuum, and add refrigerant, but is there a dryer that needs replaced? What needs flushed?
View 6 RepliesKia Optima LX: I have a 2006.5 kia optima. I am replacing my stock radio. I have hooked up plenty of radios with out trouble in all o my old cars.
I have hooked up this radio to where I am only getting power to turn the radio on with out sound. I do not know what I am doing wrong. I have hooked up all the wiring according to the radio insert.
I have heard something with the stock amp which I have located in the trunk on the rich side wheel well area. I can not see what I need to change or if I need to.
I have the part number for the battery. It is a series D51 Optima # N9951 YEL ( Napa auto parts )$149.00. You need a new positive post bracket with stud attached (standard post size, since the old one is smaller than normal) and a universal ground bracket with the clamp for a wire install. Cut off the ground clamp ( old one) and install the wire to new one. Look at the positive post ( old one ) and get a new one with the same configuration with the post bolt. Unbolt the positive unit from the old bracket and install new one. The Optima is the same size as the old one so everything goes back under the cover. It is a non vented battery so you do not need the hose hooked up to it.
If you are not good with electrical connections get the terminal kit . Then it is just a matter of unbolting the battery and replacing the cables , connectors and your done.
By hooking it directly to the battery, putting the solar panel in the sun to keep it fully charged? It's 1.5 watts. 12 volts. It has a built in over charge protection.
View 3 Repliesbeen having problems with my optima yellowtop that is less than 1 year old. Sometimes my car starts fine, sometimes it won't until I jump it.
Spoke to Bernie from elearnaid (who I bought it from) and he says with my short driving habits (10min to work, 10min home) that the battery isn't getting a full charge from my engine because of the short commute...
also now my immobilizer (smart key) won't unlock doors without using keyfob or start car without keyfob in slot...
I have a 2011 Kia Optima I went in for a routine oil change. a week later there was a noise a loud knocking noise and oil spilling from under my car I took it into the shop where I got the oil changed and they told me I thew the connecting rod in my engine.... Is it possible the oil change has something to do with this problem?
View 19 RepliesFor several years my husbands car "chugs" and barely starts after filling up at the gas station. Once it starts it is good to go but it takes many cranks and pumping of the peddle to get it going. If you put gas in it with a gas can it doesn't have the problem so guess it may have to do with the pressure of gas going in from the pump?!. We have spent over 1500.00 when it first started to no avail...
View 12 RepliesThis car has had trouble since the get-go and am considering never buying another Kia again, but since its my only car as of right now, I need it to be running clean and good, which is not the case at the moment.
I have had another big problem with my Kia for almost a week now. Every time I crank her up, it starts fine, but then it has a horrible time idling and staying idle. After ten seconds or so, it dies out and emits a big hiss (sounds like someone is sighing, but worse).
So had a trusted friend mechanic come over and look at it. At first, he thought it could have been a clogged Cat Converter, since I have known for a while that it's bad and just don't want to spend a grand on the car since it's not even worth that much anymore. He tried running a diagnostics to see what codes were popping up, but for some reason the car doesn't want to give a code.
So my friend did an overall inspection of the car and recommended that maybe a spark plug/wire change could do the trick. It didn't. We changed it but still had the same problem.
Then he went to the trunk of my car and tested the fuel pump, which then he had a glimmer of hope since he said there was barely any pressure going to the fuel pump. So we got a new fuel pump. Can you guess what happened next? Yep, the car still had the same problem.
Then he went back to the hood and looked it over. He didn't like what he saw on the CAM sensor, so he did a test on that, too. First he ran the car with it in, and it rough idled and then died. But, interestingly enough, he took it out and the car ran a lot smoother, albeit only a couple of seconds, before it finally decided to quit. But it did run smooth, so our hope was back.
So we went back to Advanced and got a new CAM sensor. Tried it on the engine. Our hope was crushed. Same problem, rough idle, then it chokes out. Then he looked at the wires and noticed they looked pretty bad, and the next time I started it up for him, he said they "exploded".
He got on his mechanic website to look up the wiring diagrams for the car to try and find the ECU, but he didn't want to take the car apart to get to it, and it was dark, so we called it a day.
I'm going to try and get AAA to tow it to his Honda Dealership tomorrow so he can get some second opinions on it and have more tools to work with to try and get this beast running. But hopefully it could just be that faulty wiring?
Have a 03 Kia Optima with a 2.4L engine with 120K. The car recently started overheating occasionally mainly while stopped in traffic. Both fans are running and as soon as I get rolling, the temp gauge goes down. I've noticed that it only happens while the trans is in gear. if I put it in neutral, the temp will drop to normal.
I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap thinking these may have been contributors. I also replaced the temp sensor because it controls both the gauge & the cooling fan. Both fans operate with the a/c on but the single fan will not come on with a/c off. I tried another pcm from the salvage yard but still get the same operation. My next thought is to install a separate trans cooler to the radiator which is only 2 to 3 years old.
What could be causing this overheating & how can I fix it? When it does over heat, I usually turn the heater on full blast to bring the temp down. Car is in great shape and would like to get it back to normal.