Kia - Optima :: 2001 - 4 Cylinder Rough Idle And Dies Out?
Jul 14, 2011
This car has had trouble since the get-go and am considering never buying another Kia again, but since its my only car as of right now, I need it to be running clean and good, which is not the case at the moment.
I have had another big problem with my Kia for almost a week now. Every time I crank her up, it starts fine, but then it has a horrible time idling and staying idle. After ten seconds or so, it dies out and emits a big hiss (sounds like someone is sighing, but worse).
So had a trusted friend mechanic come over and look at it. At first, he thought it could have been a clogged Cat Converter, since I have known for a while that it's bad and just don't want to spend a grand on the car since it's not even worth that much anymore. He tried running a diagnostics to see what codes were popping up, but for some reason the car doesn't want to give a code.
So my friend did an overall inspection of the car and recommended that maybe a spark plug/wire change could do the trick. It didn't. We changed it but still had the same problem.
Then he went to the trunk of my car and tested the fuel pump, which then he had a glimmer of hope since he said there was barely any pressure going to the fuel pump. So we got a new fuel pump. Can you guess what happened next? Yep, the car still had the same problem.
Then he went back to the hood and looked it over. He didn't like what he saw on the CAM sensor, so he did a test on that, too. First he ran the car with it in, and it rough idled and then died. But, interestingly enough, he took it out and the car ran a lot smoother, albeit only a couple of seconds, before it finally decided to quit. But it did run smooth, so our hope was back.
So we went back to Advanced and got a new CAM sensor. Tried it on the engine. Our hope was crushed. Same problem, rough idle, then it chokes out. Then he looked at the wires and noticed they looked pretty bad, and the next time I started it up for him, he said they "exploded".
He got on his mechanic website to look up the wiring diagrams for the car to try and find the ECU, but he didn't want to take the car apart to get to it, and it was dark, so we called it a day.
I'm going to try and get AAA to tow it to his Honda Dealership tomorrow so he can get some second opinions on it and have more tools to work with to try and get this beast running. But hopefully it could just be that faulty wiring?
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I've recently purchased an 01 accent GS and I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Ive also got no cold air, and original struts with 119k on the vehicle. Those are the least of my worries now as my car loves quitting out at idle; and it does not get any better hot or cold. One of the plugs was completely black when it was taken out (not by me: mechanic work) so that's when they mentioned a cylinder misfire. they wanted an additional 100 to figure out what that could be attributed to on top of the 550 for the work mentioned above! I am now next to broke and want to see if I can trouble shoot some of the causes myself. I am thinking Plug wires, crankshaft/camshaft position sensors (if there are 2 dif ones?) MAF sensor, o2 sensor, injectors, and fuel filter. My understanding is that the coil pack controls 2 cylinders at a time and I just have 1 bad cylinder...I need to figure out where to start as I have no codes to work off of. also, I don't know how to assess resistance with an ohm meter.
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I have a 2001 Elantra with 170K miles. well taken care of. I've been having a rough idle issue for some time now. The car idles very rough. I checked for codes and I got the cylinder 2 misfire code (P0302)...
I started out and replaced the plugs and wires, no solution...
I replaced the coil packs, no solution...
I replaced the MAP sensor, no solution...
I figured it may be no to low compression, so I did a compression test and all cylinders came back normal, still no solution...
I figured it might be a dirty injector, so I poured some seafoam in the gas tank, and no solution...
So my next step is to switch out the injector. Is there anything I am overlooking?
Here's the big thing that is happening too... Everytime I fill up the gas tank, I turn the car on and it idles even rougher. Like if you talk while sitting in the car, you sound like Chevy Chase when he is on the vibrating bed with Beverly D'Angelo in the movie vacation! LOL. It slowly goes away after 10-15 minutes of driving. All this rough running engine ONLY happens at idle, otherwise it runs very smoothly.
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So I have a 2001 ranger 2.3l . Runs very rough at idle.code says misfire in cyl.#1. I have changed plugs, wires, coil packs all motocraft. I did a compression test..
#1.170
#2 180
#3. 185
#4 . 180
Compression seems fine,but where do i go from here? Anything else i can check/replace to solve this?
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Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
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I bought a 2012 GTI with 6-speed manual two weeks ago. It has ~42k miles and it has been running great for the past 2 weeks until tonight. Went with my wife and son to the store and then the problems started. We got in the car to leave, it started fine, but died suddenly a few seconds later at idle when we were trying to get my son buckled in. I thought maybe I did something odd and it was me, so I turned the key off and tried to start again. It was a rough start(took a second) then idled roughly under 1k rpm and died shortly after. I tried one more time, same thing. There were no CELs at all, just the battery light after it died like normal.
At this point I'm thinking it may be that the timing chain tensioner gave out and that's the problem, so I decide to get a ride back to the house for my laptop and Vag-Com before trying to start or run it anymore. I get a ride, grab those, and head back to the car. When I get back in the car I realized my laptop battery was dead, so I decided to try to start it one more time. This time is starts just fine and I'm able to drive home without any trouble at all. No hick-ups, no stalls, no low-idle or anything. I was able to run the Vag-Com Auto Scan on my other laptop at the house and will have the readout below.
The only code thrown was on the immobilizer at 69157km which would have been when I had a replacement key cut and coded at the dealership I bought it from(a local VW dealer). I ran this scan with the key on but engine off and after realizing it wasn't giving me any codes at all I decided to run the scan with the engine running. Well, when I tried to start the car to run the scan, it died on me at idle again. So I left the key on(after the car died) and ran the scan and got the same results as below. I was then again able to start the car and drive it around the block and then park with it idling without any problems at all.
I don't understand this at all. The car has been running perfectly until now for as long as I've had it. I just changed the oil and filter this past weekend for Mobil 1 0w50 and OEM filter. And I've only run 93 octane in it, which it currently has a 7/8 full tank. I'll be calling/going by the dealership tomorrow to try and sort this out.
- I just ran VCDS data logging on the fuel system while trying to start my car just now (after sitting for ~30 minutes)
- While running I watched 106 Fuel Rail Pressure - Actual drop from ~40bar down to 6.5bar
- I was able to tap the accelerator peddle and it jumped back up to ~40bar
- After evening back out and not stalling again, I ran Autoscan and came up with:
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
P0087 - 000 - Too Low - Intermittent
I went ahead and ordered a new fuel pump and seal and received them this afternoon. I've already replaced the pump and have driven around a good bit this afternoon to test things. One of the big things I've noticed is that even though I still have the rear seat bottom out of the car, I can barely hear the new pump, where as the old one was noticeable. I'll update again if I run into any other issues.
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In reading a lot of the threads here, it seems that my traction battery or inverter is dying/dead? 2004, 135,000 miles.
A couple months ago, got the triangle of death and parked it at my office. Next day, came back and it drove fine. Then, a couple weeks ago, drove 100 miles fine, parked at the house. An hour later I hopped in the car and didn't get more than two miles down the road before it died. Came back a couple days later and it drives/runs fine, battery at 50%+ on the MFD. Had it towed to shop and they haven't had time to look at it, so I'm going to figure it out myself. I don't have a scanner but want to get one.
As described in the thread title, the ICE won't even run, and the traction battery drains down to one bar. If I let the car sit for a day or two, it will probably run, but I know there's something that needs to be addressed. Is it the traction battery, or possibly the inverter?
I called the dealer to do the inverter coolant pump recall, but they said I did it back in 2011. Was the problem identified back then? Or are they lying to me?
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So every once in a while I would start my car and get a rough idle but not too bad. I got a cel after a few times of this happening. I had a misfire on 1 and 4 and possible misfire on 2. It was ok for a a couple days. But during the last few days I'll start it up and it's fine. But then if I shut it off and restart it will have a rough idle again. Also today I got gas and then it rough idled and when I would shift or put it in neutral the rpm would stay up and drop slowly down. Like if I shifted gears I could almost do it without the rpms dropping at all. I've got 110k. ??
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Ive been having a problem where the engine cranks and idles, sometimes rough, then I try to accelerate and the car shakes and accelerates very slowly with shaking. I replaced plugs coil and leads and fuel filter with no effect but put on a new egr valve and that fixed the problem for 2 months. The same thing happened again and I cleaned the evr solenoid and that fixed the problem for 1 month. Then the same thing happened while I was out and while limping home it fixed itself. Now a month later, the same thing happened, but when I got home and shut it off, the engine won't idle properly (very rough) for 6-9 seconds then dies. I don't know what to check at this point. Thinking it may be vacuum related or possibly a fuel injector or magic gremlins at this point.
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ok, 3 times now I've been extremely close to being hit head on by oncoming traffic due to a seemingly uncurable stalling problem. It idles rough sometimes, and other times it seems fine. BUT when sitting at a light, waiting to turn left after the oncoming traffic has a quick opening, I start to go, I get halfway across the intersection and then without warning, it dies completely. Now its too late to stop and back up- and the cars are flying head on towards you locking up they're brakes. One time I would have been killed by the 18 wheeler that was coming if I hadn't gotten it started and moving again just in time.
I replaced the IAC, the plugs, filters and wires, and the EGR valve. I checked everywhere for intake leaks and found nothing. Changed the O2 sensors since they had plenty of mileage on em. It idles like crap still, even after 30+ tanks of every kind of injector cleaner they make. We used the snap on scanner tool to monitor things and it never acted up then. The TPS seems to move smoothly, and fuel pressure was checked and found to be around 25-30 psi. Don't know if that's normal. The intake air temp was reading a constant 120 degrees F. I also checked the fuel cap to make sure it was closing completely. The dealer checked the TB for excessive clearance and said it was ok.
It seems to only stall like that after driving on the highway and then stopping at the first light after that.
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'1999 F150, 5.4L, 85K miles ....
Fuel pump failed last year, had it replaced. Ran fine for a week or 2, then one day went into limp-home mode. Mech replace fuel pump relay, again ran fine for a month or so. Now when the ambient temp gets above 80F or so (yeah, it has already this year - I'm in Central TX), engine at full op temp, I'm experiencing some sort of heat-soak issue. Engine runs fine when cold, and at normal op temps on the road, but if it is parked for 15 - 20 minutes then restarted, the idle goes all funky - nearly dies, surges, etc. for a minute or 2, and then it seems ok.
I would go back to the same mech, but he had to close his shop due to health issues, so I'd like to see if I can resolve this. So, it is definitely heat-triggered, and "seems" like a fuel issue, but of course it could be some electrical contact having difficulty above a certain temp.
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I have a 1999 B4000 4.0L with 160K miles on it. Bought the truck new. Up until about a year ago it ran perfect but has developed an idle, stalling and occassional jerky ride problem. It occurs at any temperature, engine hot or cold, A/C clutch on or off and in Park, Drive or Neutral. When you start the engine it will not idle unless you keep your foot on the gas. The idle speed will drop to 200-300 rpm and the engine dies. Sometimes you can barely tap the gas pedal and the rpm will shoot up to normal idle speed (about 900 rpm) and stay there a few seconds then begin to drop again. If the engine is cold it will often die a couple times after starting even with the foot on the gas and then about the 2nd or 3rd time run with your foot on the gas.
At stop signs and red lights you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running. If you are approaching a stop sign and take your foot off the gas to coast to a stop and brake, the engine rpm will drop and the engine will die. It always starts fine though. Once you are driving it generally runs just fine at low or high speed. You can generally set the cruise control on the expressway and cruise right on. However, sometimes all of a sudden the truck will start bucking and jumping as if it has a terrible misfire. It usually lasts a few seconds and quits. Often if you step on the gas it quits. Even less occasionally the engine will begin to slow as if it is starved for fuel and slow down. You can press the pedal to the floor and it sputters a bit then picks up and runs fine.
I have read about all the threads in this forum and others and tried some of the suggested fixes but it still has the problem. I have tuned it up with new plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve. Based on some of the forums advice I have replaced the IAC valve, the EGR valve and EGR Pressure Feedback Sensor, and cleaned and inspected the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. I have checked all my vacuum lines and no leaks there and checked the engine timing which is fine. Fuel rail pressure and engine compression are also fine. Spark plugs show no clues, exhaust is clean and the engine uses virtually no oil. There has been no tear down on the engine like removing the heads, cam, timing gears or any of that and the engine is completely stock.
It shows no codes related to the problem. Two or three months after the problem started I showed a code that indicated an injector problem, traced the problem to a bad injector, replaced the faulty injector and it was fine. That took care of that code but didn't solve the idle problem. In my younger days I was into drag racing and I rebuilt engines, swapped transmissions, etc. and still do my own tune-ups today so I am fairly familiar with auto repair and have most of the tools for testing newer cars but this one stumps me. As a last resort I'm about to take it to the dealer.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder. The problem we are having is the car has a slight rough idle only at cold start. After she warms up she is smooth as glass. What would cause this?
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I own a 2007 prius, it has about 320,000 miles. It has recently been diagnosed with a #2 and #4 cylinder misfire. The car severely idles rough, but when getting in the gas it goes away. I have replaced the spark plugs, the old plugs were very white(lean), replaced fuel injectors, used fuel injector cleaner. I've sprayed carb cleaner around the intake to see if I might a leak--no leak. The motor uses about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles since about 100,000 miles. I'm just guessing, could it simply be low compression causing this? I pulled the new spark plugs after about 5,000 miles and they where white also.
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I bought a 2005 3rd gen about 8 weeks ago and I love it except for one problem, a really bad idle/vibration through the cabin when cold starting, it improves when the engine is warm but is still noticeable.
It went back to the dealer where I got it and they gave it a full service, new plugs, oils and filters and replaced the transmission oil too after the check vsc and engine management lights came on.
The codes pulled showed a misfire on cylinder 2, the dealer said the service would cure all and sure enough no more vsc lights but the rough idle and vibration are persistent.
The car has only 78000 miles and I'm pretty certain a Lexus isn't supposed to behave like this.
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I did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
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I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
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2004 Ford F150 5.4 Triton 3V Vin5.....
How this started, Drove through a lot of water as our City was in a flood on my way home and and the truck started running rough and got worse over time, I can now barely get to 40 mph as it starts to ping and sputter with no power.. the truck has been parked and not driven while in the shape it's in.
The truck keeps giving me error code P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected, P0174 System too lean (Bank 2) and at times another error P0300 saying multiple cylinder misfires detected.
After clearing the codes, I got new codes stating Misfire on Cylinder 2, 3, 4, 6. System too rich (Bank 1) System too lean (Bank 2)
Cleared the codes again and I'm back to Cylinder 3 misfire and System too lean (Bank 2)
What I have done so far... All repairs with in a few days...
1. Changed all spark plugs.
2. Changed all Coil Packs.
3. Changed number 3 fuel Injector.
4. Changed the Oil and Filter. (no water in the oil)
5. Changed the MAP Sensor.
6. Changed Bank 2 O2 Sensor 1 and 2.
7. Loosen the Catalytic Converter on the drivers side to re-leave back pressure thinking the Cat was plugged, still loss of power. I also drilled a small hole in the exhaust at my lowest point to see if it had water in it and it does not.
Checked for vacuum leaks using starting fluid around the intake manifold, no change in idle.. I also checked to make sure the vacuum line was still connected on the back of the intake manifold, I have found nothing leaking.
I also had cleaned the throttle body and changed the throttle position sensor.
Repairs within the last 6 months or less...
8. Replace passenger side cat.
9. Replaced both Bank 1 OS Sensors
9. Replaced Timing chains, Gears, Guides, Guide Tensioners, Oil Pump and pickup tube, Water Pump.
Cam Phasers are fine.
And number 3 coil is getting spark I changed the Ignition Coil again thinking maybe another bad pack.
Still #3 misfire and System too lean (Bank 2).
I am at a loss and not sure what to try, except for a compression test on cylinder 3 but I honestly don't think it's compression or a burnt valve.
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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My 1996 S10 2.2 liter pickup has been having some 'issues'. Truck has been kind to me over the years, but now is running a bit rough. It has an irreguler idle and continues to run this way through all speeds. The blinking code reads "cylinder 1 misfire". I did all the basics. I changed the plugs and wires, ignition coils and fuel filter. Here is where is gets tricky, after changing the fuel filter, it ran great again. Then it started to run rough again later that day. I thought I somehow clogged up the new filter, so I removed the new one for inspection. Realizing there was nothing wrong with it, I reinstalled. Truck ran great again. Went out to drive it to work a couple hours later and it started fine, then after about 10 seconds of running, it went back to the rough idle.
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I have a 2002 ford ranger xlt 3.0 i just rebuilt the entire motor about a month ago and was having a high idle problem for the longest time. turns out i had the iac on backwards. but now that it idles down around where its supposed to it has a rough idle has a little shake to it. starts up right away but when i drive down the road around 3000-3500 rpms its missing on cylinder #3 from what the code I am getting "multiple cylinder misfire, #3 cylinder misfire" I've replaced plugs and wires. camshaft pos sensor. I am getting 65 lbs of fuel pressure. spark on all cylinders. I am really at a dead end here. Also every time I take the plugs out to look at them they look brand new.
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