Kia - Sportage :: Engine Will Rev Really High Up To 3000 Rpm Until Put It In Reverse Or Drive
May 27, 2013
I drive a 1999 Kia Sportage with 84,000 miles on it and recently the engine has been running rather odd. When I start the car, sometimes the engine will rev really high up to like 3000 rpm until I put it in reverse or drive. Also, lately when I am in drive and I stop, or slow down so it drops below 1000 rpm the engine will kind of rev down to 500 and then back to 1000. This causes the engine to kind of shake and has once caused it to shut off. Now I put it in neutral when I stop. What it could be?
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I drive a 1999 Kia Sportage with 86,000 miles on it, and a couple of months ago it started running really weird. The engine would rev really high when in park and when I was in drive and stopped it would rev extremely low and sometimes kill the engine. The check engine light came on and it was code p0101 and said mass or volume air flow circuit range/performance. The guy at O'Reilly said the mass air flow was most likely dirty, so I bought a can of cleaner and cleaned the sensor. That didn't work, and now the problem is getting worse. The engine completely died yesterday and wouldn't start and so I went and bought a new mass air flow sensor. Today I put it in, but it didn't solve the problem. My car ran for about 5 minutes and then died again and wouldn't restart.
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The past two times I've driven to work I've hit significant traffic. While in the middle of stop and go traffic, the engine started to idle at high RPM (3000-4000). Today the temperature gauge really started climbing and hit the red, at which point I shut the car off and waited a few minutes. No smoke, no noise and no check engine lights. As soon as the road started to clear and we were moving again, the car was fine. The engine cooled, stayed cool, and the idle returned to it's normal 1000 RPM.
The dealer was unfortunately unable to reproduce these findings, though they thought it could be a stuck thermostat.
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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Last night when accelerating from 40 to 60 mph I felt a "whoosh" and then the RMPs went to 3000 when I had my foot on the pedal. They dropped to 1200 if I let off. This morning the car would shift into reverse, but punching the accelerator did nothing. Other gears are fine. I rolled out of the drive, stopped at the mech and diagnostics showed only a bad speed sensor. I saw a post elesewhere that had a similar issue in 2006, same model Toyota Sienna 2000 xle. Mech pricing the transmission replacement. Could it just be malfunctioning speed sensor sending bad data to the ECM?
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I just purchased a 2013 ES 350, and I love the car!
Whenever I startup the car (engine hot or cold) and put it in drive or reverse,and lightly step on the gas to get the car moving, there is a weird stutter. Sort of like when your driving stick in the same scenario, but you let out the clutch a bit to fast and the engine wants to bog out, but your able to hit the gas just a bit more to keep it from stalling. If this were a manual transmission, I would disregard as we all know that can be a normal characteristic of manual transmission.
This being an automatic, I am worried that something could be off with the tranny or the engine.
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I have a 2003 Mazda 6 and heard a rattling sound in the engine ONLY when the car is in drive or reverse, never when in Park. My mechanic said it is the clutch in the alternator that is coming apart and so the Alternator - tensioner - belt all needs to be replaced for a total of almost $800. Does this seem reasonable?
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I was driving my santa fe at 80 k's per hour when the revs started to climb towards 3500 thousand revs. I pulled of the road and stopped, I had noticed the engine light stuck on. then i lost drive and reverse, let it idle for 4 min and they come back. What's gone wrong with the car?
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I have a 2000 b5 wagon with a 2.8 5spd with 200k on it .... Its slammed on coils and i get this squealing in reverse i dont know what it is i just rebuilt the front end ie control arms... also have a nasty vibration from 1000rpms to 3000 rpms could that be engine mounts/snub mount?
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So I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
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I've read a lot on hear but can't seem to find what I need. I just replaced one of the battery cells. Now when I drive for about 20 min the engine idles high and the energy read out stops charging the hybrid battery. The AC recirculation turns off on its own. I have a few codes. the O2 sensor and cat code. The p3006. I had one cell that i didn't replace that was reading 6.9 volts. I thought that it would charge back up on its own. We went of vacation for 2 weeks and the car didn't get driven. I found out that's not good for an older prius.
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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I just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
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I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
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Ranger often wants to idle at 2,500 to 3,000 rpm. I'm glad its got a clutch! This is a long term intermittent problem that is getting worse. I have replaced the the IAC twice. I have unplugged the IAC when the engine is in high idle and the engine idles normally. But, starting the car with the IAC unplugged makes car run rough. That makes me think the IAC is not getting the right voltage input from the pmc (eec). Mine is a 2002 with the 3.0 engine. Throttle plate seems to be closed.
What sense inputs does PMC use to determine idle air position? Also replaced TPS sometime ago but that didn't work either. Sometimes turning off the a/c will knock the idle back to normal but not always. Turning the car off completely usually resets idle. But the high idle comes right back after accelerating. Drove the car today and idle would stick and stay high when clutch pushed in coming to a light. However. as the car slowed to a stop the idle would come down when rolling 1-2 mph. ??
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
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When I start my 2003 Escape 3.0, the rpm's shoot up to about 3000rpms. After a few seconds they drop to about 2000 and slowly creep back up to 3000. When I put in gear, I don't even have to step on the gas and my vehicle goes. It maintains between 1500-2000rpms as I'm driving. When I come to a red light or stop sign, it lurches like it wants to go even though I have my foot on the brakes. I've replaced the IAC valve, TPS, had it checked for vacuum leaks, PCV valve replaced. I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
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When the car is parked and out of gear, it won't rev more than maybe 3000 rpm. Is this a safety feature? I was trying to hear the exhaust.
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The rattle, 1.8t GLI
-2500-3000 RPM
-Car can be in gear or out of gear, rev rattle is the same.
-Sometimes, I can hear the rattle when the car is off and I slam the door slightly harder than usual.
-My hood release cable may have been the culprit, but I could only zip-tie part of it and the rattle hasn't changed.
One really important clue is that when I have reached around the area between my engine and airbox, the rattle has gone away. So I had a bad coolant flange, so when reaching my phone down there to take pictures, I must have bumped or pressed something because the noise was gone for about a mile.
I recently had my airbox out and a visual inspection didn't show any promise and tapping on random parts didn't recreate the sound.
There is am RPM rattle near my airbox....
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MT 2500 Where are you I've got a weird one. 99 Chevy 5.7 dully dump truck. The engine cuts out while driving at 3000rpms only. If you keep your foot in it it goes away at 3200. Does it in any gear(auto). Also, stopped and in park, it will do it at 4000rpms. Acts like a rev limiter. Fuel pressure does not change (60-62psi) when this happens, does it in open or closed loop. I disconnected the maf and no change. I've installed new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, module(all original with 165K), no change. Runs sensational until 3K rpms.
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