Kia Sportage :: 2000 - Hard To No Start When Cold
Apr 11, 2013
I have a 2000 Kia Sportage which has been having troubles starting when cold and I'm not quite sure as to why. In January of 2012 I had to replace both the Battery and Alternator in this car because they were both bad. I bought the alternator from O'reilly Auto Parts and the Battery from Walmart. Once I replaced both the battery and alternator last year things were fine up until recently when I discovered that my car would not start. I did not leave anything on that could have drained the battery, but it acted as though the battery was dead.
I had to get a jump start from someone and go back to O'reilly. They tested the battery and the alternator in the car and it was concluded that the alternator was bad. I exchanged that alternator because it was a limited lifetime warranty and put a replacement re manufactured one in straight out of the box and got a jump start again because the battery level was down.
Things were working great until after I went to a couple of stores and was heading home. I heard what sounded like an electrical pop and then immediately after that the car started acting up again. When I got home I left the car running and put my multimeter on the battery to test it while it was running. It read 11.8 Volts while running. I went back to O'reilly and swapped that alternator out with another one.
With the first battery and alternator the readings that I was getting while cold was 12.1. After the first replacement alternator was installed it was reading 14.0 while running before the pop sound. After the pop sound it dropped to 8.60.
With the current replacement alternator it is reading between 13.3 to 13.6 while running. While cold it is reading between 12.2 and 12.4.
Are my readings normal or do they indicate a problem? It was suggested by one parts guy that there might be a drain on the system, but at the moment I can't figure out as to where a drain might be coming from. It was also suggested that alternator connectors might be faulty on the car itself.
When the car is idling and running it sounds like it's a bit erratic. I did replace the Ignition coils in 2007. How would I determine if there is a drain on the system and if there is a drain on the system where it might be coming from?
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I have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
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20 degrees out this morning truck not plugged in, didn't want to start had to cycle 4-5 times, each time waiting for glow plug Light to go out.
Finally cranked didn't sound pretty but cranked. Once it started idling on its own got out and seen a puddle of oil under the front of the engine drivers side center kind of.
Got up on the truck and shined a light in the valley and seen a puddle in intake valley. Heres my question? Where did this oil come from? Once it warmed up it quit and oil kinda disappeared from valley???
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Did leaving this unhooked create a hard cold start? Should I put another pedestal on it with the plug or install one without it? Also will it hurt to leave plugged in overnight?
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I've been driving my wife's 2001 Ford ZX2 for the last ~9 months.
Early on in taking over driving it I noticed that it was difficult to start, so I had the battery checked. One place said it need to be replaced, but I wanted confirmation so I had it checked at two other places--it was in the normal range. So then I thought it probably needed a tune up since, as far as I know, it had never had one (has ~50K and I know it should've been done earlier). But, that didn't seem to fix it either.
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The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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Is there anything other the control cable that cause the extremely sticky shifting when the car is off?
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Code P1123 : Long term fuel trim, at idle - mixture too rich..
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I have a 1988 Camaro with a v6 engine and it has 70,000 original miles on it. problem is that it is hard to start when its cold so i changed the fuel filter because i read it can be the problem because it might be clogged. so after changing the filter it started and ran really good but after a couple of days now it starts to hesitate and stutter on take off and thru out the whole drive. so far i have changed the distributor cap and the ignition control module but still has same problem.
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I have been having trouble with a hard cold start on my W12. when I go to start the car it will crank and crank I can hear it fire on a few cylinders but is not starting on the first try. It will then fire right up on the 2nd try and is fine when it is warm. I had it into the dealer and the replaced the battery in the key and cleared the misfire codes they also did the coil pack swap. I am still getting the hard starting...
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Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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I just bought an 03 Ex that hadn't been driven but 600 miles the past three years. Needless to say, there's probably some sludge causing issues somewhere. I have a Scangauge installed, which has been very useful thus far.
I've flushed the coolant, currently with distilled water, changed the oil and filter, atf and filter, and installed my 2nd set of fuel filters after getting stranded after I ran my first tank of fuel through it. After changing the fuel filters the second time, I was still having cold starting problems, requiring 3-4 long cranks before firing. Once warm, runs fine. I just installed a FICM from Diesel Tech Ron, but I still have to try 3-4 times to get it to cold start, then it runs and starts ok. Not sure why the hard cold starts...
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Lately my Ion has become increasingly harder to start, especially in the cold. I have found that if I depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor when I turn the key it starts easily but rumbles and smokes a little when it starts. If I do not press all the way down it won't start right away but will take 5 or 6 tries or not start at all. Otherwise the car runs fine once its started.
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Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
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My 2002 Honda Civic (160k+ miles, manual transmission) has twice failed to start this winter. This happened when the temperature is cold (<32 Deg. F). The car came with me from CA to the East coast (mid Atlantic) about 5 years ago. It occasionally has been difficult to start it in cold weather since moving East but otherwise it starts first attempt without issues.
This morning it barely started. This evening, it didn't start using the ignition. Turning the key, the engine attempted to turn over once perhaps twice. After several attempts the engine did not turn over at all - no detectable sound from the starter motor, instrument lights will flash and clicking noises come from the dash. Attempting to jump the battery with another vehicle had no effect - the engine would not turn over at all, the instrument lights flash, clicking from the dash. The battery health indicator is green.
I did get the car started by coasting down a grade, putting the car in gear to turn the engine over, and then using the ignition (I must depress the clutch to use the ignition but getting the engine turning worked first attempt without issue).
After arriving home and shutting off the engine, the car will start on the first attempt without issue (even after letting it sit at 25 Deg. F for 3+ hours). This seems like a mechanical issue and the starter motor is an obvious place to start. I can double check the battery connections and do some basic electrical testing, how to verify the electrical grounding (I'm handy with a multi meter).
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