Kia - Spectra :: While Sitting At Red Light With AC On Low Brake Power?
Jun 16, 2011
I feel recently that when I am sitting at a red light with my foot on the brake, and the AC blasting, that sometimes the car begins to creep forward until I push harder on the brake. At times, the amount of pressure on the brake pedal is fine to hold the car still, but other times, it isn't.
2007 kia spectra5, 138-hp, 2.0-liter I-4 (regular gas), 4-speed automatic with OD.
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Last night while driving my battery light and bake light came on and stayed on. Nothing seems wrong at least not yet ( but they are warning lights) what it could be?
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The shift indicator light is out on my Kia spectra 5. What it is actually? A bulb? A fuze?
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I have a chirping noise probably in the power steering pump. But maybe the alternator. Any fixes or just replace it. 2007 kia spectra.
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Have a 2009 Spectra and the power steering belt slips when turning the wheels and starting the car. Assumed it was the pump and replaced it with a salvage part ... same problem. Entirely possible we got another bad pump but seems unlikely it would exhibit the exact same symptoms. Is this a common problem with this model? Is there anything else in the system that could cause the pump to seize up when turning the wheel?
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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Have a issue after car sits a few days and the brake pedal is really stiff when you depress it at first start up? Like it won't depress anymore then it is.
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From the first day i bought this car i had a strange noise coming under the hood. Every time i leave my car for at least 2 hours parked and then started, when i do a few meters i hear a noise like a hydraulic valve comes in place and my brake pedal does a small movement. After that everything is normal.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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So I have this super cool little green 2001 prius with a brand spankin rebuilt battery and it's running as well as I could have hoped.
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I have a 2012 Elantra that I bought used with 15,000 miles on it. Since the day I bought it I have had different issues with it but one of my huge issues is that when in idle at a light or sitting still anywhere my car shakes like someone is bouncing a basketball in it. I have taken it to the dealership multiple times and they have replaced PCV Valve and cleaned it before replacing it and they have done some other things as well to it. I have gone to just talking to the service manager every time I go to service because I have taken my car in for the same issue every time!! I usually wait til there are multiple reason to go to the dealership before I take it back in because they never fix the issue!!
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I started noticing a strange idle when stopping or sitting at a red light. Upon stopping the car idles at around 600, then all of a sudden it jumps to around 1000-1100, and sits there as if I was giving it gas. As I drive off the car drives fine, once I stop again, the same thing repeats. This happen to me 2-3 times already within the past month, I mostly drive on the highway, so that might be a reason I don't notice it often.
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Or more like "chug...chug...chug...chug" or "whah...whah...whah...whah". My Twarg now makes little throbbing motions (not noise) like this when sitting at a stop light. More the kind of motion you would expect from a diesel truck or a 1-cylinder lawnmower at very low throttle. Maybe I am going insane, but I swear that it didn't use to do this until a recent service. I thought maybe I had bad gas, but after several fillings, it still does this. Very subtle but still annoying. I want Smooth.
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When my Camry is in DRIVE and sitting at a red light for example, my car will shake. It feels like it idles rough. If I put it in neutral the shaking goes away... only when in drive.
I took it to Firestone who mentioned I had a dirty throttle body. So I get this cleaned and the shaking has significantly reduced. However after a few months I'm back at square one. Dirty throttle body and care is shaking again. (Yes air filter is clean)
I noticed two things that I think might be contributing... After 5,000 miles my oil is pretty black and very low. (Time for an oil change) When I swipe my finger on the exhaust pipe, its really black but no black smoke comes out. I don't see any oil leaks outside of the engine, its actually pretty clean.
So two questions, is the low oil and black exhaust pipe normal? Why would my throttle body keep getting dirty?
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I noticed this past weekend that when I stopped at a stop light for a long period of time, the engine would misfire for a split second, random, just miss for a moment, then do the same after 15 or so, sometimes less. Other times, no issue.
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Kia Spectra have a problem with coolant swishing around behind the dashboard? Any permanent repair for this? After having the coolant purged of air, it is quiet for, at best, 2 months.
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My partner drove the Prius with 54,000 miles to work this morning as he always does. So he is on lunch and sent me a text saying some warning lights appeared on the dash while he was sitting at a red light. I asked if he had any loss of power, if the battery fan was running, he said it drove normally. We bought it last summer with 44,000 miles from a Toyota dealer. They said it had a new inverter pump. It has the original 12v battery however. Though it doesn't act weak at all. No issues this winter at all.
Note, the battery in the photo is at 1 bar. I asked him about it and he said he was driving aggressively to work today, which includes a 2 mile 6% climb he said he made at a high rate of speed... Though after the exit, he has another mile to work.. So the battery should have built itself up before him parking it.
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I have an 03 vw Jetta 1.8t with around 100,000 miles and I recently ran into a problem with the car jolting, or slipping when I get on it hard. And also when I'm sitting at a stop light it will jerk forward like it wants to go. I've tried a few things like cv axels and some other things but I'm just hoping it's not the tranny.
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Over the past week, my engine has stalled numerous times while sitting at a stop light. I simply turn the key and restart the engine and go on my way... until it happens again. FYI - engine is idling between 500 and 600 rpm. I don't know if it's significant or just normal, but when the engine stalls, the red "battery" icon comes on, but goes away as soon as I restart.
In the past few days, I've also noticed my windshield wipers have been very slow, regardless of what position I put the stalk in. Today, there were no engine stalling incidents. However, this morning the wipers were extremely slow when I tested them. Then, this afternoon, everything worked fine! The engine continued to run fine all day and my wipers seem to be back to normal speed!
Does this sound like typical "low left side battery" gremlins, or perhaps the right side "starter" battery? Is it just coincidence that these two symptoms showed up at the same time and are not related? By the way, I believe the left side battery was replaced by the previous owner a year or two ago.
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I have a 95 honda accord 2.2L, 135,000 miles. One day while sitting at a light the car started vibrating due to a rough idle problem. The idle speed is ok at about 750 rpm.
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1997 expedition 4.6 .... Figured its the same motor. I bought it for cheap with a bad miss fire not sure what cylinders just did a tune up. I forget but I think they were motorcraft spark plugs I put in. But after that it ran grate so I thought. It would be intermiten but would all of a sudden while accelerating get a boost of power. That would last untell its next shift point and would always happen around 2-2500 rpm. Kinda like VTEC in a honda. Or it gained 2 cylinders. And would also start stumbling while sitting at a stop light for two long with it in gear and break on only after its warm. Never happens when cold. I hooked up tourqe and saw when it does it its misfiring on 5-6-7-8 randomly. Its missing on cylinder 4 all the time now which I believe is a plug, wire, or water-antifreez in plug hole.
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