Kia - Spectra :: New Slave Cylinder / No Pressure Now
Jul 25, 2014
Changed the slave as a start hoping that's what's causing my gf's clutch to mess up every time it warms up. We bleed it and it was working great but spongy. We tried to rebleed with no tools just the pedal pump method and now have absolutely zero pressure unless u Manually push in slave cylinder but then nothing again once u pen the bleeder. We tried a vacuum bleeder too now but that's all we can get our hands on. Is slave in the master? If so how do we get it out.
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I have an 07 elantra and I was going down the road and my clutch pedal hit the floor. I replaced the slave cylinder. Tried to bleed it and there's no fluid coming out and there is still no pressure on the pedal.
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I have 2012 VW GTI manual with 34k miles and on the freeway I noticed that it's becoming harder and harder to select gears. Few minutes later and by the time I got off the freeway, at the light I couldn't engage 1st gear, nor 2nd, somehow managed the 3rd and brought it home. So if the car is on, I cannot engage gears, if I try the first I can feel some forward motion, like it's trying to engage. If I turn of the car, I can shift through all the gears. I have noticed before this happened that the clutch feel is very soft and spongy and my gear shifter had a lot of loose play. Since I can shift when the car is off, I don't think the problem is worn shifter bearing. Clutch never slipped and I could turn of the car engage 1st or 2nd gear, start it with depressed clutch and go normally so I think the clutch disk is fine.
I am out of 3 year 36k miles, but still have the powertrain warranty. Dealer told me that if it's the pressure plate (most likely) then I would be out of warranty but if it was slave cylinder then I would be covered. I don't want to take a tow truck just for them to tell me that it's definetly the pressure plate, what do you think???
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Dad has a 2001 well cared for Mazda B3000 with around 128,000 miles on it. Motor runs fine, so did the tranny up until a couple of weeks ago. The tranny needs a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. It was drivable up until about four days ago.
My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week and hasn't had time to tear into the tranny. We just drained the old fluid out and put in new when it first started making the noise it makes. We have priced the parts and was just waiting for my Dad to get a weekend off to tackle the problem. But someone at work told my Dad to bleed the slave cylinder before he tore into the tranny, just to see if it would work.
Well we bled the slave cylinder just like you do brakes. But now the clutch has no pressure, it just goes to the floor. We have tried everything. My dad uses the truck to commute back and forth to work. So, I am looking for any tricks on how we can get pressure back in the clutch so he can get to work.
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3 weeks ago my slave cylinder blew out in a big way so I limped it home and into the garage and onto jack stands. After tearing out the gearbox, replacing the clutch and slave, we get the thing all buttoned up and start to bleed the clutch.
We feel as though we were making progress but upon pressing the pedal it stopped halfway to the floor, pressing harder now it would go to the floor slowly, then we start to hear the dripping again coming out of the bell housing. If we push on the pedal now, it goes half way down and stops, if you keep pushing harder you can tell that we are just pushing the fluid out at the slave cylinder and it start dripping hard again.
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My T18 tranny in my 85 F150 will not shift, first instinct was clutch but after tearing the drivetrain out of the truck to check the clutch, there is virtually no wear on it. Slave cylinder is leaking a little bit but the mechanic that took a quick look at it said it was still working. She was shifting fine when i left for school, then when i got off the highway i couldn't shift.
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I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
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So I took my tranny off to fix a broken dog bone mount bolt problem. I am now in the process of putting it back on. I raised the tranny bolted all the bolts on had everything almost back together and I went to put my slave cylinder in and the clutch fork won't move so that the slave cylinder can slide in. Did I maybe put the clutch fork in wrong? pretty positive I put it back in as it was and slide the clip through the hole and everything.
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When changing gears my accent grinds as if its not engaging properly? I checked my slave cylinder and the rubber was filled with silver looking fluid could me replacing the S/C fix the issue? I don't think its synchro issue i tried double clutching and still no difference. the grind sounds the exact same as it does when you accidentally release your clutch when changing gears and it hasn't engaged properly. I also changed my manual gear box oil.
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1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
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First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
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Replaced a bad clutch on a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer. I have been unable to bleed the slave cylinder after replacing both it and the master cylinder. I suspect either the slave cylinder is bad, or I put the incorrect throwout bearing in when the clutch was replaced. The slave cylinder is located inside of the bell housing
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Can contaminated or old fluid make the clutch slave cylinder not function correctly? Mine won't completely disengage the clutch after sitting for several hours or if its really cold outside. The master is new and has been bled but now the fluid looks black.
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I put a new clutch kit in my 99 f-150 with the 4.6. It came with the clutch disk,pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got the tranny back up in but now my Hydraulic line will not connect into the slave cylinder. Its still the same one that was in it.
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I'm getting ready to swap my clutch and got to looking at the slave cylinder. I read somewhere that you have to rotate and twist it to get it out? Or something else? Also after reinstalling how do you get the slave plastic piece cut that holds the rod in? Or do you just push the clutch?
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So my accent with a manual trans has a small leak at the slave cylinder for the clutch. I am driving home and it's shifting hard. I get home pull up to where I live and push In the clutch and the car feels like the clutch is not pushed in. RPMs drop and car stalled. Look under hood and see not fluid in clutch master cylinder. Fill with fluid and pump pedal. I get some pedal back but the car will not crank. Nothing. I have accidentally cranked car when in gear in the past and there did not seem to be a safety switch as the car would move if my foot was not on brakes.
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I got a 99 f250 v10 5 speed manual. my slave cylinder was leaking so me and a buddy replaced it. the pedal felt kinda funny at first but shifted fine. Fast forward 2 months, I moved out west and my truck will grind a little into 3rd 5th and you damn near need to be at a stop to down shift into 2nd.
If I drive like grandpa and shift slow it usually is fine but but might still grind. I am wondering if its a syncro or if we did not correctly "bleed the new clutch slave. Tempted to take it to ford and see what they say.
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Driving home from work the truck suddenly would not shift, it felt like the clutch was not completely disengaging. The only way I could get it home was to start it in gear but the truck was obviously lunging, did that once and limped it home in 2nd down back roads.
Master was clearly leaking inside the truck but not a lot. Slave was dry as a bone, put all new hydraulics in it, it feels like I have more on the pedal but still the same problem. Thoughts? Do I have to pump it a thousand times to bleed it, it's one of those pre bled systems.
This happened to me once before a couple weeks ago and then it just magically went away after messing with it for a minute. I'm thinking maybe my fingers on the clutch are gone or throw out bearing quit but I've had no chatter, slipping or whining. I can shift through the gears with it off or running if my t case is in neutral.
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Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
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No brake fluid pressure to right rear wheel cylinder on a 08 Prius. Also abs, vsc and brake system warning lights are on. All started after installing new rear brake shoes.
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2008 Buick Lacrosse CXL .. My son said the Oil pressure low light came on when he tried to start the car. It didn't want to start.
When I got there two hours later, it started but had a check engine light. But no low oil pressure light. Sounded like it was missing.
Code from computer came back P0300 "Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected". I cleared the code. Revved the engine to about 2000 RPM's and the CEL came back on.
Same code. When idling it feels like it's missing. The plugs look good, I am going to replace the ICM.
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